{"id":2363,"date":"2015-07-12T13:20:34","date_gmt":"2015-07-12T17:20:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/svetanyc.com\/?p=2363"},"modified":"2017-10-02T08:06:42","modified_gmt":"2017-10-02T12:06:42","slug":"istanbul","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/192.168.2.119:1984\/svetanyc\/2015\/07\/istanbul\/","title":{"rendered":"Istanbul, Turkey. July 2015"},"content":{"rendered":"
Istanbul<\/a> – the only city that lies on both continents – is a place of wonder, curiosity, immense cultural tensity, history, architecture, food and human density. It is a place to be visited by everyone at least once in their lifetime, and\u00a0it\u00a0won’t leave you adamant or unbiased. It is a megapolis that,\u00a0to some extent,\u00a0carries on the traditions of a legendary city\u00a0of Constantinople<\/a>, its heritage, arts and tales. I have already visited Istanbul in 2000 as a law student and I, frankly, hated it. Not the city, but the obnoxious, stalking Turkish men who followed me around. I was 20 years old, it was my first cultural experience outside\u00a0Belarus<\/a>, and even though I enjoyed the museums and sights, I preferred\u00a0to stay at a\u00a0hotel. I am glad I’ve been given another chance to visit this place (even as a layover from Malta to Belarus) as it changed my entire perspective of the city (but not the Turkish men, sadly). Before I begin, I would like to thank Tanya and her Frenchman friend Nico for making the best out of my 24 hours in Istanbul!<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Istanbul is one of the most populous cities in the world (14 million people) and is Turkey’s economic, cultural and historic center. Once I had a conversation with a group of\u00a0Oxford dons who twice a year travel\u00a0to see the most interesting historical\/cultural sites in the world and they told me that Turkey was one of their most visited places. Indeed, the country’s strategic location between Asia and Europe left us many vistas that have seen and survived the great empires of the Persians, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. It all culminates in Istanbul – the final stage of the legendary Silk Roads<\/a>.\u00a0However the\u00a0turbulent history of\u00a0Istanbul\u00a0is full of contrasts and contradictions. Once, the capital of the\u00a0Eastern Roman Empire, it\u00a0was the\u00a0stronghold of\u00a0Christendom, now, it is predominantly Muslim;\u00a0a place that for centuries was the world’s largest market tolerant\u00a0to\u00a0cultures and religions, in April 1915 it became an opening act of the Armenian Genocide<\/a>, the first systematic ethnic cleansing in the human history. Now,\u00a0buckle up and let me take you through the history of Istanbul.<\/p>\n Literature.<\/strong><\/p>\n History.<\/strong><\/p>\n The history of the city proper begins in\u00a0667 B.C.\u00a0when Greek settlers from Megara<\/a> established Byzantium<\/a>, named after their leader Byzas,\u00a0on the European side of the Bosphorus. The settlers built an acropolis adjacent to the Golden Horn on the site of the early Thracian settlements, fueling the nascent city’s economy. It had port and a sheltered cove, and prospered due to its key geographical position: Byzantium not only had strategic water access, but also was located on the busy trade route to Greek colonies around the Black Sea. While Byzantium was founded within recorded history, recent excavations for the Bosphorus tunnel project (an interesting read “The Big Dig”<\/a> by the New Yorker) uncovered artifacts from a Neolithic settlement dating between 6400 B.C. and 5800 B.C.<\/p>\n In 512 B.C. Darius, emperor of Persia, captured the city during his campaign against the Scythians. It was during that time when people first attempted to bridge the Bosphorus Strait<\/a> (by tying the boats one to another), which is only 0.8 km wide in its narrowest point. Following the retreat of the Persians in 478 B.C., the town came under the influence and protection of Athens and stayed under the Athenian rule until 355 B.C., when it gained independence. By the end of the Hellenistic period, Byzantium, retaining its status as a free state, had formed an alliance with the Roman Empire. Life was relatively uneventful until the city’s leaders made a big mistake by picking a wrong side in a Roman war of succession.\u00a0After siding with Pescennius Niger<\/a> against the victorious Septimius Severus<\/a>, the city was besieged by Rome in A.D. 193 and suffered extensive damage; Byzantium citizens were massacred and walls were burnt and raze to the ground. Ancient Byzantium was no more. Soon realizing the city’s critical importance, Severus had Byzantium\u00a0rebuilt on an even grander scale, adding a circuit of walls enclosing a city twice the size of its predecessor. Severus named his new city Augusta Antonina, in honor of his son.<\/p>\n Roman Emperor\u00a0Diocletian<\/a>\u00a0had decreed after his retirement, the government of the Roman Empire should be overseen by co-emperors Galerius<\/a> in the east (Augusta Antonina) and Constantine<\/a> in the west (Rome). Of course, it resulted in a civil war, which was won by Constantine in A.D.324 who became sole emperor of a reunited Roman Empire. Constantine decided to move the capital of his far-flung empire from a declining Rome to a more strategic, powerful position in the east and in 330 he declared Byzantium to be Nova Roma (“New Rome”), but it was widely referred to as\u00a0Constantinopolis (or Constantinople) – the city of Constantine. Thus began the Eastern Roman Empire, later known as the Byzantine Empire<\/a> – a synthesis of Greek culture, Roman politics, and Christian religion that would survive for more than a thousand of years. Constantine converted to Christianity (though only on his deathbed)\u00a0and\u00a0Latin was eventually abandoned in favor of Greek. Theodosius<\/a> (rule 379-395) was the last Roman emperor to rule a united Roman Empire from Constantinople. After his death, the eastern part of the empire permanently broke away from the western part, and while the western territories succumbed to the barbarian kings less than a century later, the Byzantine continued to thrive for a millennium.<\/p>\n From across the sweep of a thousand years of Byzantine history, one emperor stands out – Emperor Justinian<\/a> (rule 527-565). Under Justinian, the Empire expanded its borders and reconquered some of the lost Roman territories in the west, including most of Italy, Balkans and North Africa. The Codex Justinianus<\/a>, an unprecedented legal document of its time, regulated public and private affairs and business conduct. Also known as Corpus Juris Civilis<\/a>, it later provided a foundation for the legal system of the entire western Europe. However, Justinian’s (and his wife’s Theodora<\/a>, a former courtesan) most recognizable contribution was the construction of Hagia Sophia<\/a>, the great Church of Constantinople.<\/p>\n From 565 to 1025, a succession of warrior emperors kept invaders such as the Persians and the Avars at bay. Though the foreign armies often managed to get as far as Chalcedon (the present-day suburb of Istanbul), none were able to breach Theodosius’ land walls. In 1071 Emperor Romanus IV Diogenes<\/a> (rule 1068-1071) led his army to eastern Anatolia (the ancient term for the territory of the modern\u00a0Turkey)\u00a0to battle with the Seljuk Turks<\/a>, who had been forced out of Central Asia by the encroaching Mongols. The Byzantines were disastrously defeated and Seljuks won control of nearly all of Anatolia but left Constantinople to the Christians. From around the 9th to 13th centuries, Constantinople also developed complex relationships with an emerging and later the largest and most advanced state of that time in\u00a0Europe – Kiev Rus<\/a>.\u00a0Many of the Kiev Princes were married to daughters of the Byzantine Emperors, and because of this connection Eastern Europe became Orthodox, after it was Christianized by Vladimir the Great<\/a> of Kiev<\/a>. That was the origin\u00a0of my religion.<\/p>\n As Turkish power was consolidated to the east, the power of Venice – always a maritime and commercial rival to Constantinople – grew in the West. From 1202-1204, the Fourth Crusade<\/a> led by Enrico Dandolo<\/a>, a blind Doge of Venice, attacked and sacked the Christian (!!!!) city of Constantinople, carrying off its wealth. With friends like these, the Byzantines hardly needed enemies! The crusaders chose Baldwin of Flanders to be their new Byzantine Emperor but a\u00a0new Latin Empire<\/a> at Constantinople lasted only until 1261, when the Byzantines under the command of Michael VIII Palaeologus<\/a>\u00a0recaptured the city and some outlying territory.\u00a0After this, Constantinople never regained its former glory, partly because of its\u00a0rulers’ political mistakes, and partly because of an upstart religion on their doorsteps: Islam. Rather than a thriving metropolis, it\u00a0transformed into a collection of villages, and became a semi-ghost town with, as Ibn Battuta<\/a> noted, “sown fields within the city walls”.<\/p>\n After the Mongols trampled through Anatolia in 1243 ending Seljuk rule, the Turks formed small principalities, one of which was ruled by a warrior named Osman<\/a> whose subjects took his name and called themselves Osmanli or Othmani (origin of the world “Ottoman”). Over the years, Osman’s principality grew in size and power, taking over Bursa as its capital and capturing Byzantine territories in Anatolia.\u00a0By the mid-1400s, the Ottomans, under the rule of Mehmed II<\/a> (rule 1451-1481) had grown strong enough to challenge Constantinople. Mehmed II became sultan at 12 years old when his father retired. Legend says that a military crisis soon broke out, and Mehmed II asked his father to lead the army one last time. When his father refused, the enraged Mehmed proclaimed, “If I am the sultan, I order thee to command the armies”… and, sure enough, his father returned to the throne. Upon his father’s death, Mehmed II resumed the power\u00a0at the age of 19. Two years later, he laid siege to Constantinople. The Orthodox Byzantines looked for help in the Catholic West, but their pleas were in vain, due to the long-standing conflicts between these two branches of the divided Church. Giving up, the Byzantine clergy reportedly said, “We would rather be ruled by the Ottoman turban than by the Latin miter”. The siege lasted for almost two months, and even though Constantinople was the best-fortified city of its time, with the world’s strongest walls, it couldn’t resist a fairly new type of weaponry – the cannons. At last, Constantinople – and with it, Byzantine and Christian rule in the region – fell on May 29, 1453. The last Byzantine emperor, Constantine XI Palaiologos<\/a>, died fighting on the walls of his city.<\/p>\n Mehmed the Conqueror made Constantinople the new capital of his Islamic empire and “turk-ified” its name to “Konstantiniye”. Although Mehmed was a solder, he was also a man of intellect who spoke 6 languages fluently and appreciated art and science. The 21-year-old emperor at once began to rebuild and repopulate the city. Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque, the city walls were repaired and a new fortress, Yedikule, was built. Greeks who had fled the city were encouraged to return and an imperial decree calling for resettlement was issued; Muslims, Jews and Christians all took up his offer and were promised the right to worship as they pleased. Mehmed II transformed the Ottoman state into a formidable empire, however it was one of his descendants, Suleiman the Magnificent<\/a> (rule 1520-1566) who made it into a world power. Suleiman triggered an explosion of architecture (with the help of his master architect, Sinan<\/a>) and expanded his territory as far west as Hungary and as far south as North Africa. (P.S. in my Malta blog<\/a> I wrote about the Great Siege of Malta of 1565 led by Suleiman’s forces). Under Suleiman, 1\/3 of Europe’s population lived within the borders of the Ottoman Empire, and Istanbul (a word originated from the Greek expression “istinpoli”, which means “to the city”) was the largest and most prosperous city in the world.<\/p>\n By the 19th century, incompetent sultans, overtaxation, corruption and technological advances in the West eventually combined to bring down the mighty Ottomans. Nevertheless, Istanbul continued to be the “Paris of the East” and, to affirm this, the first great international luxury express train, the famous Orient Express<\/a>, connected Istanbul and the French capital in 1883. The city’s slow decline reflected that of the sultanate. The concept of democracy, imported from the West, took off in the 19th century and the sultans were forced to make concessions towards it, by creating in 1876 the first Ottoman constitution and parliament (both of which were very short-lived). Siding with Germany during WWI didn’t help the Ottomans\u00a0to regain lost territories in the Balkans and the Middle East, as they hoped, instead the war only hastened the empire’s demise and ultimately triggered, in 1923, the process of independence of not one but three nations: Australia, New Zealand and Turkish Republic. WWI also saw a controversial chapter in Turkish history. In 1915, the Ottoman government decided to forcefully relocate its Armenian population in the east, but as it turned out – all the way to the “better world”. Numbers differ but some 800,000 to 1,500,000 Armenians were killed, sacked, murdered, placed on boats and sunk in the Mediterranean. What became to be known as the first genocide in the history of human race, Armenian massacre has not been recognized by modern Turkish government (fantastic read “A Problem from Hell” by \u00a0Samantha Powers<\/a>).<\/p>\n The post-WWI reforms\u00a0by Mustafa Kemal<\/a> (known as Ataturk “The Grand Turk”) were directed to propel Turkey into the 20th century and orient it towards the West rather than the East. State administration, education, lifestyle, dress, language – every aspect of Turkish life was affected. The new parliament abolished all of the old Ottoman institutions – the sultan was history, and the royal family was sent into exile. Constantinople was officially renamed Istanbul, but lost its capital-city status to Ankara, which was then a small town in the middle of the country. After Ataturk’s death in 1938, Turkey floundered as it searched for a leader and experimented with democracy. Ongoing political clashes resulted in multiple military interventions, and its current political system is based on the concept of strong administrative power, rather than collaboration and coalition.<\/p>\n City orientation.<\/strong><\/p>\n Istanbul is divided into the European\u00a0part and Asian\u00a0part by the north-south Bosphorus Strait; the most populated and touristic\u00a0European part is also divided by the estuary of the Golden Horn into the old town to the south (Sultanahmet and Grand Bazaar Quarter) and the modern Istanbul to the north (Galata, Beyo\u011flu and Taksim). Sea of Marmara forms the natural southern boundaries of the city, while Black sea serves as the city’s northern limits. Most historic sights are located in the old town, while new town is a perfect place to get social, grab a dinner with friends or attend one of the hundreds of music venues.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n As I already mentioned, I happened to be in Istanbul simply because my morning flight from Malta to Minsk had a 24-hour lay-over in Turkey, so I decided to use this time to see the city. This is a guide to those who happened to be in Istanbul for a very short time, as it doesn’t cover most of the city’s sights but only the core ones.\u00a0Turkish Airlines<\/a>\u00a0offer a free hotel accommodation for the flights with more than 12 hours of lay-over, but I decided not to take my chances and booked a very inexpensive Ares Hotel<\/a> in Sultanahmet. At the airport, I negotiated a taxi ride to Sultanahmet (around $20, though my hotel offered a pick-up for $30) and off we went. The driver took me to the heart of the old town via Kennedy Caddesi, a coastal highway offering fantastic views of the Sea of Marmara to my right, and a long stretch of the thousand year old city walls to my left. The Ares hotel was perfectly located within a few mins walk to the Sultanahmet square, all modes of transportation, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, etc. I only wish a bed in my room wasn’t round, but frankly, I barely spent any time in the room anyway.\u00a0By the time I arrived to the hotel, Tanya and Nico were already waiting for me, so we started the exploration together. I have to admit, I read very little\u00a0about Istanbul and since I came during the Muslim’s holy month of Ramadan<\/a>\u00a0(many mosques and sights have different schedules during the celebration), I had to completely rely on Nico and his knowledge of the city and local culture. I couldn’t have been more grateful to him for showing us Istanbul\u00a0in the most efficient, speedy and glamorous way.<\/p>\n Sultanahmet.\u00a0<\/strong>I’ve got to see this part of the old town in two days, but to make it less confusing, I would go over the entire area\u00a0at once. Just like Rome, Istanbul’s Old Town was built on seven hills. The district called Sultanahmet<\/a>, on top of the first hill, is the historic core of the city. The Greek city of Byzantium was founded nearby, where Topkapi Palace<\/a> stands today. Early Greek settlers – weary after their long journey – chose this highly strategic location, which could easily be fortified with walls on all sides. Today, Sultanahmet is Istanbul’s single best sightseeing area for visitors, playing host to Istanbul’s most important and impressive former church – Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, one of the best museums of Turkish and Islamic Arts and city’s most significant Byzantine ruins – the Hippodrome and Underground cistern. Many visitors to Istanbul never make it out of the area which is hardly surprising, since not many cities have such a concentration of sights, shops, hotels and restaurants within easy walking distance. I use Rick Steves’ “Historic Core Of Istanbul Walk” as an exhibit, as it was exactly the walk we, unintentionally took. Please allow 5-6\u00a0hours.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n We started in the center of the Sultanahmet Park, which is a fine example of a city determined to be people-friendly and the best photo op for both Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Behind the orange Hagia Sophia are the Topkapi Palace grounds, which also house the Istanbul Archeological Museum<\/a> (unfortunately, I didn’t make it there). If you turn 90\u00b0 to the right – the long terracotta-colored building with different sized domes is the 16th century Haseki Sultan Bath, now a government – owned emporium. At the other end of the lively park is the famous Blue Mosque and just to its right (out of sight) is the long, narrow Byzantine square called the Hippodrome. The Sultanahmet Park was busy with tourists and men trying to sell you the boat tickets across\u00a0the Bosphorus, but it turned into\u00a0a real-time celebration\u00a0at night, when Turkish people and visiting Muslims came here to eat and drink together.<\/p>\n\n