{"id":2445,"date":"2015-07-22T17:54:58","date_gmt":"2015-07-22T21:54:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/svetanyc.com\/?p=2445"},"modified":"2016-06-04T19:43:58","modified_gmt":"2016-06-04T23:43:58","slug":"azerbaijan-july-2015","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/192.168.2.119:1984\/svetanyc\/2015\/07\/azerbaijan-july-2015\/","title":{"rendered":"Azerbaijan. July 2015"},"content":{"rendered":"
The countries of the South Caucasus have always been the “lands in-between”. In between the Black and Caspian seas, Europe and Asia, Russia and the Middle East, Christianity and Islam and, more recently, democracy and dictatorship. Armenia, Azerbaijan<\/a> and Georgia and the territories around them have the mixed blessing of being at the crossing-place of different cultures and political systems. However, in my memory, those 3 nations\u00a0were a part of one country I was born in – USSR. The beauty of the land, hospitality and heroism, three things that are always associated with Caucasus, I learnt in childhood by reading Alexander Pushkin, Mikhail Lermontov, Leo Tolstoy and watching the all-time famous Soviet comedy by Leonid Gaidai\u00a0“Kidnapping, Caucasian Style”.<\/a><\/p>\n I don’t think I’d ever considered visiting the Caucasus until I met an Azeri girl\u00a0at the all-inclusive resort in Cancun who, in very favorable manner told me about her home town, Baku, and how it was becoming the “new Dubai”, backed by world’s growing demand for Azeri oil and gas. Thank you, Ulviya, for kindling my interest and assisting me with planning this trip to the “Land of Fire”. Azerbaijan wasn’t my only destination, as I was thrilled by an idea\u00a0to swim in both seas – Caspian and Black – on the same trip. That is how\u00a0my 11 day “Baku to Batumi” journey came about and until now, it is one of my favorite trips.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Literature.<\/strong><\/p>\n History.<\/strong><\/p>\n The ancient history of the Caucasus is fairly mysterious. However, two statements can be made with confidence: the region is a treasure trove for archeologists, and its ancient past has very little bearing on the present. Some of the earliest-ever skulls, dating back 1.8 million years and named (with more than a hint of patriotism) Homo georgicus<\/em> were discovered by archeologists in Dmanisi <\/a>in southern Georgia. A Neanderthal jawbone found in a cave at Azykh in Karabakh has been dated as over 300,000 years old. There was a flourishing Stone Age culture in the region around 6,000 B.C. that may have invented wine-making. There are rock engravings at Qobustan (Gobustan), south of Baku, that are almost 4,000 years old. All these indicate continuous patterns of settlement since ancient times.<\/p>\n Azerbaijan is the largest country in the South Caucasus, with a population of almost nine million people, of whom about 90% are ethnic Azeris. It is also the least studied and its name is much less recognized internationally than its two neighbors, Armenia and Georgia, whose historical narratives are more easily told. Many more cultural threads have formed the weave that makes up contemporary Azerbaijan.\u00a0The name “Azerbaijan” has been traced back to Atropatenes, a Persian lord in the time of Alexander the Great or, more poetically, to azer, the Persian word for fire, on the grounds that it describes the Zoroastrian fire-temples of the region. Until modern times, the word “Azerbaijan” was more often applied to the northern Turkic-populated part of Iran than to the modern-day state of Azerbaijan. Before the 20th century, outsiders tended to call Azerbaijanis either “Shirvanis”, “Caucasian Tatars”, “Turks”, or just “Muslims”. Their own self-identification was flexible. In the 19th century, Brenda Shaffer writes,“Azerbaijanis could consider themselves as both Turks or Iranians, or Russian subjects, with little conflict. Some where active in political movements in all three of the regions, concurrently or at different times of their carriers.”<\/em><\/p>\n The earliest evidence of human settlement in the territory of Azerbaijan dates back to the late Stone Age and is related to the Guruchay culture<\/a> of the Azykh Cave<\/a>\u00a0– which\u00a0is considered to be the site of one of the most ancient proto-human habitations in Eurasia. Remnants of the pre-Acheulean<\/a> civilization, found in the lowest layers of the cave, are at least 700,000 years old. It was here, in 1968, Mammadali Huseynov<\/a> discovered a 300,000-year-old partial jawbone of an early human. Carved drawings etched on rocks in Qobustan<\/a>\u00a0demonstrate scenes of hunting, fishing, labor and dancing, and are dated to the Mesolithic period.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Following the overthrow of the Median Empire<\/a>, all of what is today Azerbaijan was invaded by the Persian king Cyrus the Great<\/a> in the 6th century B.C. This earliest Persian Empire had a profound impact upon local population as the religion of Zoroastrianism<\/a> became ascendant as did various early Persian cultural influences. Many of the local peoples of Caucasian Albania<\/a>\u00a0(no link to the present-day Balkan republic) came to be known as fire worshipers.\u00a0This empire lasted for over 250 years and was conquered later by Alexander the Great<\/a>\u00a0which led to the rise of Hellenistic culture. The Seleucid<\/a> Greeks, who inherited the Caucasus following Alexander’s death in 323 B.C.,\u00a0ultimately allowed local Caucasian tribes to establish an independent kingdom for the first time since the Median invasion. However, the Albanian kingdom wasn’t given much time to coalesce around a native Caucasian identity and to forge a unique state. Already in the 2nd or 1st century B.C. the Armenians considerably curtailed the Albanian territories and very soon\u00a0the region became an arena of wars when Romans and Parthians began to expand their domains. Most of Albania came, very briefly, under the domination of Roman legions under Pompey<\/a>\u00a0 – \u00a0rock carving of what is believed to be the most-eastern Roman inscription survives at the site of Qobustan<\/a>. It is inscribed by Legio XII Fulminata<\/a> at the time of emperor Domitian<\/a>. Subsequently, Caucasian Albania came fully under Persian rule.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Ruins of many churches confirm that from A.D. 325 Albanians started to convert to Christianity.\u00a0<\/span>Albanian king Urnayr<\/a> was baptized by\u00a0Gregory the Illuminator<\/a>\u00a0of Armenia and accepted Christianity as his kingdom’s official religion, however Christianity spread only gradually, and a large part of Albanians and Persians remained Zoroastrian until the Islamic conquest.<\/p>\n While fully subordinate to Sassanid Persia, Albania retained its monarchy and remained an entity in the region until the 9th century.\u00a0In the first half of the 7th century, the Islamic Umayyad Caliphate<\/a> repulsed both the Sassanids and Byzantines from the Caucasus region and turned Caucasian Albania into a vassal state after the Christian resistance, led by King\u00a0Javanshir<\/a>, was suppressed in 667.\u00a0The decline of the Abbasid Caliphate<\/a>\u00a0resulted in the inception\u00a0of numerous local dynasties such as the\u00a0Sallarids<\/a>, Sajids<\/a>, Shaddadids<\/a>, Rawadids<\/a> and Buyids<\/a>. However, at the beginning of the 11th century, the territory was gradually seized by waves of Turkic Oghuz<\/a> tribes from Central Asia.\u00a0The first of these Turkic dynasties was the Ghaznavids<\/a> from northern Afghanistan, who took over part of Azerbaijan by 1030. They were followed by the Seljuqs<\/a>, a western branch of the Oghuz who conquered all of Iran and the Caucasus and pressed on to Iraq. The Seljuqs became the main rulers of a vast empire that included all of Iran and Azerbaijan until the end of the 12th century and Azerbaijanis consider the 11th and 12th centuries to be a golden age in their history. During the Seljuq period, the influential vizier of the Seljuq sultans, Nizam ul-Mulk<\/a>\u00a0helped to introduce numerous educational and bureaucratic reforms;\u00a0great progress was achieved in different sciences and philosophy, the region experienced a building boom and the unique architecture of the Seljuq period was epitomized by the fortress walls, mosques, schools, mausoleums, and bridges of Baku, Ganja and Absheron. This period gave birth to such notable figures of Azerbaijani culture as poet Nizami Ganjavi<\/a>, the scholar Khatib Tabrizi<\/a> and the architect Ajami<\/a>. Locally, Seljuq possessions were ruled by Atabegs<\/a>, who were technically vassals of the Seljuq sultans, but de facto –<\/em> rulers themselves.\u00a0Under their rule from the end of 12th to early 13th centuries, Azerbaijan emerged as an important cultural center of the Turkic people. Important to mention that the pre-Turkic population that lived on the territory of modern Azerbaijan spoke several Indo-European and Caucasian languages,\u00a0which were gradually replaced by a Turkic language<\/a>, the early precursor of the Azerbaijani language<\/a> of today.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n The next ruling state of the Jalayirids<\/a>, that came to power in 1225, was short-lived and fell under the conquests of Timur<\/a>.\u00a0The local dynasty of the Shirvanshahs<\/a> became a vassal state of Timur’s Empire<\/a>, and assisted him in his war with the ruler of the Golden Horde<\/a>\u00a0Tokhtamysh<\/a>. Following Timur’s death, two independent and rival states emerged: Kara Koyunlu<\/a> and Ak Koyunlu<\/a>,\u00a0but not for long.\u00a0The Shirvanshahs returned, maintaining a high degree of autonomy as local rulers and vassals from 861 until 1539. The state of the Shirvanshahs was famous for its exports of silk and gave rise to a material and intellectual culture that was highly respected in its time and whose creators are major figures in the history of Azerbaijan. Among them was a poet Nasimi<\/a>, who wrote his ghazels (poems) in Azeri language, unlike his predecessors who wrote in Persian and Arabic. \u00a0In 1501 the Iranian dynasty of\u00a0Safavids<\/a>, who ruled the territory of Azerbaijan,\u00a0imposed Shia Islam<\/a> upon the formerly Sunni<\/a> population, as it was battling against the Sunni Ottoman Empire<\/a>.\u00a0This, in combination with another series of events, laid the foundation for the fact that both the contemporary Republic of Azerbaijan and Iran are the only Shia majority countries ever since.\u00a0Despite efforts of the Safavids, the Ottomans briefly managed to occupy swaths of present-day Azerbaijan twice over the centuries.<\/p>\n In the early 18th century, a collection of autonomous Muslim khanates emerged across Azerbaijan. De jure <\/em>these khanates were the subjects of the Iranian Shah; however\u00a0they\u00a0exercised self-ruling control over their affairs via international trade routes between Central Asia and the West. To preserved their independence against a rebounding Persia, several khanates united and asked Russia for assistance, the Empire, that by the late 18th century and forward, led\u00a0a more aggressive geo-political stance towards its two neighbors (and rivals) to the south, namely Iran and Turkey.\u00a0Following a chain of events that started with the re-subjugation of Georgia into Iran in 1795<\/a>, Russia actively contested and battled with Iran\u00a0over possession of the Caucasus region.\u00a0The successful Russian campaigns in the later stages of the Russo-Persian War (1804\u201313)<\/a> were concluded with the\u00a0Treaty of Gulistan<\/a>, in which the shah’s claims to some of the Khanates of the Caucasus were dismissed by Russia on the ground that they had been de facto<\/i> independent long before their Russian occupation. Per Gulistan Treaty, Iran was forced to concede suzerainty over most of the khanates \u00a0to the north of the river\u00a0Aras<\/a>\u00a0(alongside Georgia and Dagestan) to the Russian Empire.\u00a0Under the subsequent\u00a0Treaty of Turkmenchay<\/a> which finalized the Russo-Persian War<\/a>, Iran was forced to recognize Russian sovereignty over the Erivan Khanate<\/a>, the Nakhchivan Khanate<\/a> and the remainder of the Lankaran Khanate<\/a>. After incorporation of all Caucasian territories from Iran into Russia, the new border between the two was set at the Aras River, which, upon the Soviet Union’s disintegration, subsequently became part of the border between Iran and the Azerbaijan Republic. One of the\u00a0results of that cession was a separation of the Azerbaijani ethnic group<\/a>\u00a0between two nations: Iran and Azerbaijan.\u00a0 <\/span>Furthermore, the present number of ethnic Azeris in Iran (20 million people) far outnumbers that in neighboring Azerbaijan (9 million).<\/p>\n Azerbaijan can lay claim to being the most historic oil region in the world as in 1848 the first oil well in the world was drilled in Bibi Eybat near Baku, which was soon followed by the Azeri equivalent of the Gold Rush. The discovery of oil didn’t come as a surprise. Travelers had recorded the oil seeping through the ground on the shores of the Absheron Peninsular by the Caspian Sea for centuries. Azerbaijan’s ancient Zoroastrian fire-temples burned on flammable gas issuing from oil deposits underground. Oil-impregnated sand, scrapped of the beaches, was a valuable fuel send by camel for hundreds of miles around. In 1872, the czarist government allowed the oil-producing land to be auctioned off to private companies, and businessmen from around the world flocked to Baku to make their fortunes. The Swedish businessmen Robert and Ludvig Nobel<\/a> invested in a small refinery and laid the groundwork for the rise of the Nobel brothers’ petroleum empire. The industry would soon attract financiers such as the \u00a0Rothschilds<\/a> and international firms such as Shell. The world’s first oil tanker “Zoroaster” sail off\u00a0the Caspian coast in 1878 and the Baku-Batumi pipeline was built in\u00a01897-1907. By the beginning of the 20th century, half of the world’s oil production was located in Baku. The oil boom\u00a0led to a period of unprecedented prosperity and growth in the years prior to World War I but also created huge disparities in wealth between the largely European businessmen\u00a0and the local Muslim work force. Today, Baku owes its European looks to the magnificent buildings built with early oil money in the late 19th-\u00a0early 20th centuries. New York Times wrote in October 28, 1900:\u00a0“As a business center, Baku was acquired considerable wealth, and the new city, which\u00a0had naturally extended in all directions, contains substantially built, indeed elegant, stone houses and large shops, which would do credit to any city of Europe. The streets are rapidly being paved, and they will soon be better, in this respect, that any other town in Russia, with the exception of St. Petersburg. Evidences of wealth are not only to be seen in the appearance of the city itself, but also among many of its inhabitants.”<\/em> By 1900, the population of Baku increased from 10,000 to roughly 250,000 people as a result of worker migration from all over the Russian Empire, Iran, and other places.<\/p>\n At the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, an independent Azerbaijan Democratic Republic was proclaimed in Ganja on May 28, 1918 following an abortive attempt to establish a federal Transcaucasian Republic<\/a> with Armenia and Georgia. This was the first modern parliamentary republic in the Muslim world. In July 1918 the local\u00a0coalition collapsed and was replaced by a British-controlled government known as Central Caspian Dictatorship<\/a>. Researching the history of Azerbaijan I was surprised to see Brits there, however, their stakes in Azeri oil were very high.\u00a0British forces under General Dunsterville<\/a> occupied Baku and helped the mainly Dashnak-Armenian forces to defend the capital from the ongoing Turkish invasion. However, Baku fell on September 15, 1918 and an Azeri-Ottoman army entered the capital, causing British forces and much of the Armenian population to flee\u00a0and\u00a0massacring ethnic Armenians<\/a>\u00a0 who couldn’t escape. The Ottoman Empire<\/a>, however, capitulated on October 30, 1918 and the British occupational force re-entered Baku.\u00a0Azerbaijan was proclaimed a secular republic and its first parliament opened on December 5, 1918.\u00a0Among the important accomplishments of the Parliament was the extension of suffrage to women, making Azerbaijan the first Muslim nation to grant women equal political rights with men.\u00a0Another important accomplishment of ADR was the establishment of Baku State University<\/a>, which was the first modern-type university founded in Muslim East.<\/p>\n Independent Azerbaijan lasted only 23 months until the Soviet Red Army invaded it, establishing the Azerbaijan SSR<\/a> on 28 April 1920.\u00a0It was incorporated into the Transcaucasian SFSR<\/a> along with Armenia and Georgia in March 1922 and by an agreement signed in December 1922, the TSFSR became one of the four original republics of the Soviet Union<\/a>.\u00a0The TSFSR was dissolved in 1936 when\u00a0its three regions became separate republics within the USSR.\u00a0Like other union republics, Azerbaijan was affected by Stalin’s purges in the 1930s. During that period, sometimes referred to as the “Red Terror”<\/a>, thousands of people were killed, including notable Azeri figures such as Huseyn Javid<\/a>, Mikail Mushvig<\/a>, Ruhulla Akhundov, Ayna Sultanova and others. Directing the purges in Azerbaijan was Mir Jafar Baghirov<\/a>, the first secretary of the Communist Party of Azerbaijan.\u00a0His special target was the intelligentsia, but he also purged Communist leaders who had sympathized with the opposition or who might have once leaned toward Pan-Turkism<\/a>\u00a0or had contacts with revolutionary movements in Iran or Turkey. As a result of Baghirov’s brutal purges, over 100,000 Azeris were shot or sent to concentration camps, never to return.<\/p>\n During the 1940s, the Azerbaijan SSR supplied three-quarters\u00a0of the Soviet Union’s gas and oil during the war with Nazi Germany<\/a> and was thus a strategically important region. When Hitler’s German invaded the Soviet Union in June 1941, the Germans identified Baku oils as a vital asset. In August 1942, the Germans occupied the western side of the North Caucasus and planned a push south to Azerbaijan. Saying “Unless we get the Baku oil, the war is lost,” Hitler diverted divisions away from the battle of Stalingrad toward the Caucasus. That summer, Hitler’s staff famously had a cake made for him that had a shape of a Caspian sea in the middle. Film footage shows delighted Hitler taking a slice of the cake, which had the letters “B” “A” “K” “U” written on it in white icing and chocolate made to look like oil spooned over it. The debacle at Stalingrad in the winder of 1942-1943 meant that Germany never invaded the South Caucasus, but even the threat of attack was a death-sentence for the Baku oil industry. Stalin, who knew the Baku oil fields from his revolutionary days of 1905, had the oil wells shut down so they would not fall into German hands. Almost the entire Azerbaijani oil industry and its experts were transferred to the oil wells of Volga and Ural. After the war, Russian’s oil fields received the major investment, and Azerbaijan suffered. The on-land fields dried up and in order to reach the trickier offshore fields a small town of Oily Rocks (Neft Da\u015flar\u0131,<\/span>\u00a0\u041d\u0435\u0444\u0442\u044f\u043d\u044b\u0435 \u041a\u0430\u043c\u043d\u0438) was built 55 kms out in the sea – reached across the causeway built on sunken ships. Cramped and polluted, Oily Rocks eked out what could still be drilled of Azerbaijan’s oil within the capacity of Soviet technology. By <\/span>the time Soviet Union ended, Azerbaijan was producing only 3% of the Soviet oil output. Important to note that even though the battles of WWII didn’t reach Azerbaijan, a fifth of all Azeris fought in the war\u00a0from 1941 to 1945 and some 250,000 people were killed on the front.<\/p>\n Policies of de-Stalinization<\/a> and improvement after the 1950s led to better education and welfare conditions for most of Azerbaijan.\u00a0This also coincided with the period of rapid urbanization and industrialization. During this period of change, a new wave of \u0441\u0431\u043b\u0438\u0436\u0435\u043d\u0438\u0435\u00a0(reapprochement) policy was instituted in order to merge all the peoples of the USSR into a new monolithic Soviet nation. However, in the 1960s, the signs of a structural crisis in the Soviet system began to emerge. As\u00a0Azerbaijan’s crucial oil industry lost its relative importance in the Soviet economy, republic\u00a0had the lowest rate of growth in productivity and economic output among the Soviet republics, with the exception of Tajikistan<\/a>. Ethnic tensions, particularly between Armenians and Azerbaijanis, began to grow, but violence was suppressed.\u00a0In an attempt to end the growing structural crisis, in 1969, the government in Moscow appointed Heydar Aliyev<\/a> as the first secretary of the Communist Party of Azerbaijan. A Major-General of KGB, he would later become the non-replaceable leader (or likely – “khan”) of post-Soviet Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n Perestroika<\/a>\u00a0(\u041f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0441\u0442\u0440\u043e\u0439\u043a\u0430) in the late 1980s was also a time of increasing tension with Armenia. Tit-for-tat ethnic squabbles between Armenians and Azeris over the status of Nagorno-Karabakh bubbled over into virtual ethnic cleansing (pogroms of the Armenian population in Baku and Sumgait<\/a>), as minorities in both republics fled escalating violence. On 20 January 1990, the Red Army made a crassly heavy-handed intervention in Baku, killing dozens of civilians and turning public opinion squarely against Russia, a sentiment that is still very much alive in Azerbaijan. Azerbaijan declared its independence from the Soviet Union on 18 October 1991, and the Soviet Union itself officially ceased to exist just a few months later, on 26 December 1991. Even though, the dissolution of the USSR was the most peaceful break-up\u00a0of the state in the history of humanity, it did have violent repercussions in Caucasus. The sovereign borders established by Russian Empire in the 19th century and by\u00a0Soviet government in the 20th century were so artificial that multiple wars for land broke up as soon as there was no more central government. The early years of Azerbaijan’s independence were overshadowed by the Nagorny-Karabakh war<\/a> with the ethnic Armenian majority of the region\u00a0backed by Armenia.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0By the end of hostilities in 1994, Armenians controlled up to 14% of Azerbaijani territory, including Nagorny-Karabakh itself. As a result,\u00a0an estimated 17,000 people had been killed and more than a million Azeris and Armenians (750,000 Azeris and 350,000 Armenians) had been displaced. The truce was signed between Armenia and Azerbaijan over two decades ago but until present day, the news of the escalating tension and military provocations show up from time to time. Sadly, the most culturally and religiously diverse republic in the Caucasus became very homogeneous as many Russians and Armenians left Azerbaijan in the 1990s. I would like also to note that it wasn’t the first intercommunal bloodshed on the territory of Azerbaijan. The\u00a020th century saw several attempts of Azerbaijanis to annihilate their Armenian neighbors, the most appalling events happened in February and September of 1905 (well documented in Henry’s book “Baku. An eventful history”), as well as events of 1988 – 1990 (Sumgait pogrom<\/a>), resulting in the first wave of Armenian refugees leaving Azerbaijan. Despite the centuries of peaceful co-existence, no Azeri would tolerably speak of Armenians anymore. Sad.<\/p>\n Another thing I would like to mention before moving on to the fun stuff is the Aliyev’s clan. In\u00a01993\u00a0Heydar Aliyev<\/a> overwhelmingly won a presidential election and his position as supreme leader was now secure, although armed uprisings, which the president harshly suppressed, threatened social stability. Actual or alleged coups d’\u00e9tat became an almost annual occurrence – in 1994, 1995, 1996 and 1998 – but in the aftermath of each one, Aliyev was able to augment his power over both rivals and old associates. He preferred not to experiment with democracy and began to built a strong semi-authoritarian state to replace the fragile but pluralistic country he had inherited. Unlike his many opponents, Aliyev stood at the center of a vast network of friends and colleagues from his days as Communist Party leader and, even more crucially, from his earlier career as head of the Baku branch of the KGB. The president began building a base of support within the legislature through the creation of his own pro-presidential organization, the New Azerbaijan Party. During the years following Aliyev’s rise, the party emerged as the preeminent faction in successive elections, none of which was believed by international observes to meet democratic standards. However, party politics turned out to be far less important than the clan politics that encouraged loyalty to Aliyev. His base of support remained the cadre of old friends and personal connections from the particular part\u00a0of Azerbaijan – Nakhichevan, his home region.<\/p>\n Due to the\u00a0limited reforms and the signing of the so-called “Contract of The Century” with British Petroleum<\/a> in October 1994 (over the Azeri-Chirag-Guneshli<\/a> giant oil field) that led to increased oil exports to western markets, the economy began improving.\u00a0Aliyev’s loose\u00a0community worked to secure control over state institutions, and its members also emerged as critical players in the booming energy sector. Aliyev’s son, Ilham, became vice-chairman of the state oil company, which negotiated with Western investors for access to Azerbaijan’s oil fields. Backroom machinations, not the dialectic of reform and reaction, defined Azerbaijani politics well into the early 2000s. Political and economic success was largely a function of personal loyalty to the president. During his tenure Aliyev created a personality cult – his image still adorns billboards across Baku and the countryside, his visionary leadership was credited with bringing Azerbaijan back from the brink of civil war and nurturing international interest in the country hydrocarbon reserves. None of this was exactly untrue as Aliyev’s iron hand no doubt played a role in preventing chaos. However, in the process of preserving order he forged the most clearly authoritarian state in the south Caucasus.<\/p>\n When Aliyev announced that he would not run for another term in 2003 (he died later that year), he chose a method of political succession familiar to authoritarian leaders around the world – he handed power to his son. Ilham Aliyev was duly elected president in a race that was again viewed by both local and international monitors as deeply flawed. Shortly,\u00a0the long-awaited Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline<\/a> and Baku-Tbilisi-Erzerum gas pipeline<\/a>\u00a0opened up in 2005 and 2006 respectively, and Azerbaijan’s position as a stable country with oil\/gas resources shoot up.\u00a0However, extreme levels of corruption and nepotism in the state system created by Aliyev’s clan prevent Azerbaijan from more sustained development, especially in the non-oil sector. The plummeting oil prices decreased Azerbaijan’s growth from a whooping 16% in 2008 to -3.5% (negative) in first quarter of 2016. So, welcome to the country where Aliyev’s giant photo will stare at you from every corner, and where oil rigs at\u00a0sea and land will never let you forget what makes up the large chunk of Azerbaijan’s GDP.<\/p>\n I flew Minsk-Baku via Moscow and would like to mention a pretty cool campaign ran at that time by the WWF.ru<\/a>\u00a0called “Feed the fish, make a wish” where for 100 rubles ($1.5) you can throw some food into a giant aquarium, full of gold fish. I think we need more interactive initiatives like this to raise money and awareness about our planet.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n I arrived to the Heydar Aliyev International Airport<\/a>\u00a0and was pleasantly surprised to find out\u00a0that some of the oil money went to build one of the most impressive airports I’ve got to travel through – uber-modern, glassy and sleek, it looked like many other giant modern buildings in Baku, which, unlike Dubai, weren’t lacking the national element. At the airport, I\u00a0was greeted by my Baku hotel co-owner who took me to the hotel (22 manat ($21) to the city center).<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Along the highway, I got a glimpse of other examples of Azerbaijan’s new architectural bang – from Baku Olympic Stadium<\/a> to Baku Expo Center<\/a>, from Buta Palace<\/a> to the new 2015 European Games Athletes Village and from SOCAR Tower<\/a> (to be the tallest building in Azerbaijan after its completion) to Zaha Hadid<\/a>‘s Cultural Center<\/a> named after Heydar Aliyev, of course.<\/p>\n <\/a>History of Baku.<\/strong><\/p>\n “Baku<\/a>” is derived from the Persian words\u00a0\u0628\u0627\u062f-\u06a9\u0648\u0628\u0647 B\u0101d-kube, meaning “the city where the wind blows”, referring to a place where wind is strong and pounding.\u00a0Indeed, the city is renowned for its fierce winter storms and harsh winds even in summer, that’s why\u00a0its\u00a0nickname is\u00a0“City of Winds”.<\/p>\n Rock carvings discovered near Bayil, as well as a bronze figure of a small fish found in the territory of the Old Town have led some to suggest the existence of a Bronze Age settlement within the city’s territory. Further archeological excavations revealed various prehistoric settlements, native temples, an observatory, statues and other artifacts within the territory of the modern city and around it. Roman inscriptions found in Gobustan dating from 84-96 A.D. prove that in the 1st century, Romans\u00a0reached Baku too. The remnant of this period is the village of Ramana<\/a> in the Sabunchu district of Baku.\u00a0In the Life of the Apostle <\/i>by\u00a0Bartholomew<\/a><\/i>, Baku is identified as “Armenian Albanus”\u00a0called Albanopolis. Local church traditions record the belief that Bartholomew’s martyrdom occurred at the bottom of the Maiden Tower<\/a> within the Old City, where according to historical data, a Christian church was built on the site of the pagan temple of Arta.\u00a0A record from the 5th-century historian Priscus of Panium<\/a> was the first to mention the famous Bakuvian fires, due\u00a0to which Baku became a major center of ancient Zoroastrianism<\/a>.\u00a0<\/sup><\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n There is little or no information regarding Baku in medieval sources until the 10th century, when\u00a0Baku was a domain of the\u00a0Arab Caliphate and later of Shirvanshahs<\/a>.\u00a0After a devastating earthquake struck Shamakhy<\/a>, the capital of Shirvan<\/a>, Shirvanshah\u2019s court moved to Baku in 1191.\u00a0Between the 12th and 14th centuries, a massive fortification was undertaken in the city and around it. The Maiden Tower, castles of Ramana<\/a>, Nardaran<\/a>, Shagan and Mardakan<\/a>, and also famous Sabayil castle<\/a>\u00a0(Bayil Castle)\u00a0on the island of the Baku bay were built during this period. Despite the attacks by Mongols, the biggest problem of Baku during this time was the transgression of the Caspian Sea. The rising levels of the water from time to time engulfed much of the city and the famous castle of Sabayil went completely into the sea in the 14th century. These led to several legends about submerged cities such as Shahriyunan (\u201cGreek city\u201d). After visiting the part of the exhibit at the Shirvanshahs Palace dedicated to the Bayil Castle and seeing the artifacts recovered from the sunken island, I asked a few locals about it and sadly, no one knew what I was talking about.\u00a0The Shirvan dynasty was ousted in 1501 when Shah Ismail I sacked Baku and then forcibly converted the previously Sunni city to Shia Islam. When Peter the Great captured the place in 1723, its population was less than 10,000, its growth hamstrung by a lack of trade and drinking water and for the next century Baku changed hands several times between Persia and Russia, before definitely ceded to the Russians.<\/p>\n Oil had been scooped from surface diggings around Baku since at least 10th century. However, when commercial extractions was deregulated in 1872 the city rapidly became a boom town. Workers and entrepreneurs arrived from all over the Russian Empire and Europe, swelling the population by 1200% in under 30 years. In the wake of two Russian revolutions Baku’s history became complex and very bloody with a series of brutal massacres between formerly neighborly Armenian and Azeri communities. When the three South Caucasus nations declared their independence in 1918, Baku initially refused to join Azerbaijan’s Democratic Republic, a position bolstered by a small British force that secretly sailed in from Iran hoping to defend the oilfields against the Turks (Britain’s WWII enemies). In the end game of WWI, the Turks were forced to evacuate too and Baku became capital of independent Azerbaijan for almost two years until, on 28 April 1920,\u00a0it became\u00a0the capital of the Azerbaijan Soviet Socialist Republic<\/a>, within USSR.<\/p>\n In 1935 the search for oil moved into the shallow coastal waters of the Caspian. A forest of offshore platforms and derricks joined the tangle of wells and pipelines on land. Investments dwindled after WWII and only really resumed in earnest after Azerbaijan’s independence in 1991. Since 1994, however, foreign oil consortia have spent billions exploring these resources and for reasons as much political as economic and Baku has boomed once again – fountains and enormous flagpoles, countless towers and futuristic skyscrapers have mushroomed while those grand older buildings have been cleaned and up-lit. The city’s resurrection is truly\u00a0one of the most impressive in the modern history.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Baku’s old town and the neighboring areas deserve to be explored on foot and in detail. Luckily, the main places of interest are very accommodating in regard to pedestrians and could be visited within a few days.\u00a0I stayed at the Baku Palace hotel and Hostel<\/a>, a\u00a05\u00a0mins walk to the old town. It was a very decent accommodation considering the location and price, however, the owners came across as a bit shady. The hotel is run by two brothers, one of whom was constantly partying and drinking in the hotel’s common room, which sadly happened to be next to my room, and another brother, who was very helpful\u00a0but still tried to scheme a deal out of\u00a0me and my www.booking.com<\/a> reservation. Displeased but not surprised by his tricks, I refused to bend. Despite\u00a0all, I had 3 full days in Baku and I wanted\u00a0to take a full advantage of my time.<\/p>\n The streets\u00a0and buildings closest to the hotel were\u00a0in an artistic state of dilapidations. There were many old uninhabited houses\u00a0with broken windows and untidy courtyards, many 3-4 stories walk-up buildings with neon signs advertising massages that turned out to be the places for men looking for\u00a0“happy ending”, some bars with forever closed doors, etc. However, the area didn’t lack charm, as every morning a lonely shoe master set up his sewing machine right on the street and busied himself with work till very late night, as well as multiple “hole-in-the-wall” eateries with check-out windows or 2-3 small tables. I ate the most delicious food at those tables and met the most amazing hosts there too. The Baku Palace was located just a few blocks from the Fountain Square<\/strong> (F\u0259vvar\u0259l\u0259r meydan\u0131,\u00a0\u041f\u043b\u043e\u0449\u0430\u0434\u044c \u0424\u043e\u043d\u0442\u0430\u043d\u043e\u0432<\/em>), an endlessly popular leafy boutique-ringed piazza. In 1864, the plan of Baku assigned this place for the exercise and as a parade ground. Until now known and referred to as “Parapet”, it was built in 1868 by the city architect Kasim Bey Hajibababayov and served as the business and social center of Baku. Along the square there were\u00a0two-storey caravanserais (now the “Araz” cinema and the Museum of Azerbaijan Literature), residencies and two\u00a0hotels – “Grand Hotel” and “Metropol”. During the Soviet times,\u00a0the square\u00a0of Karl Marx (as it was called then), turned into a spacious, well-landscaped area. The current name of the square derives from the presence of dozens of fountains throughout the square constructed during the 1980s and it is an attractive tourist and local destination with many boutiques, restaurants, shops and hotels.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Outside the large McDonald’s (whose faithfully transliterated menu includes dabl cizburqers<\/em>), there is a bronze statue of a young lady with an umbrella, bare midriff and a cell phone, I guess representing a modern Bakuvian.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Approached down a wide tree-shaded fountain-adorned stairway from the southwestern side, the square is given an artistic aspect by the\u00a0Nizami Literature Museum<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>(Nizami G\u0259nc\u0259vi ad\u0131na Az\u0259rbaycan \u0259d\u0259biyyat\u0131 muzeyi,\u00a0<\/span>\u041c\u0443\u0437\u0435\u0301\u0439 \u0430\u0437\u0435\u0440\u0431\u0430\u0439\u0434\u0436\u0430\u0301\u043d\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 \u043b\u0438\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0301\u0440\u044b \u0438\u0301\u043c\u0435\u043d\u0438 \u041d\u0438\u0437\u0430\u043c\u0438\u0301 \u0413\u044f\u043d\u0434\u0436\u0435\u0432\u0438\u0301),<\/em> whose exterior facade is a series of the nation’s literary giants –\u00a0Muhammad Fuzuli<\/a>, Molla Panah Vagif<\/a>, Mirza Fatali Akhundov<\/a>, Khurshidbanu Natavan<\/a>, Jalil Mammadguluzadeh<\/a>, and Jafar Jabbarly<\/a>. The museum contains one of the greatest and richest treasuries of Azerbaijani culture,<\/a>\u00a0as its collection has\u00a0more than 3000 manuscripts, rare books, illustrations, portraits, sculptures, miniatures, memories of poets and other exhibits stored in 30 general and 10 auxiliary halls of the museum\u2019s exposition.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The main place of interest for a history junkie like myself was Icheri Sheher<\/a> <\/strong>(\u0130\u00e7\u0259ri \u015e\u0259h\u0259r, Old town,\u00a0\u0418\u0447\u0435\u0440\u0438\u0301-\u0448\u0435\u0445\u0435\u0301\u0440,\u00a0\u0412\u043d\u0443\u0442\u0440\u0435\u043d\u043d\u0438\u0439 \u0433\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434) – <\/em>the\u00a0historic heart\u00a0of Baku that\u00a0in December 2000\u00a0became the first location in\u00a0Azerbaijan to be classified as a World Heritage Site<\/a> by UNESCO. The name Icheri Sheher literally means Inner City <\/em>(I will refer to it in the blog also as Old City),<\/em> and\u00a0the modern Baku grew outside and around this area. It is the crown of the cultural heritage of Azerbaijan and the capital of the ancient state of the Shirvanshahs. The walled area of 22.1 ha encompasses hundreds of historical sites, 4 of which are included in the list of World Heritage Monuments and 28 of which are listed as national heritage. There are 1300 families presently residing in Icheri Sheher, several museums, 18 hotels and more than 100 businesses, shops and restaurants. This carefully-restored and well-maintained unique site is one of the best places to glimpse into life of\u00a0ancient city.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n It is widely accepted that Icheri Sheher, including its Maiden Tower, date at least to the 12th century, with some researchers contending that construction dates as far back as the 7th century. However, the peculiar bronze fish figure discovered at an archeological excavation on the northern side of the Maiden Tower suggests that Icheri Sheher was populated many centuries before Christ. Located on a beautiful natural bay at the crossroads of caravan trade routes, and rich with natural resources of oil, copper, iron ores and other minerals, the Inner town has attracted traders from all over the world since ancient times. Extracted oil and salt, as well as saffron exported to various Eastern countries were a major impetus for the growth of Baku. The population of ancient town was comprised of a feudal aristocracy (who ruled the city and owned oilfields, crop lands and salt lakes) and the urban population – craftsmen, merchants and priests, considered to be the third most important profession after the ruler and the Commander in Chief. Thanks to its unique location, Icheri Sheher contained a rich diversity of different cultures which impacted the Turkic origin of its architecture with the elements of Zoroastrian (Muhammad Mosque), christian (Bartholomew’s Church) and islamic art (mosques, caravansarais, madrasas etc). In the second half of the 11th century, as a result of the collapse of the Abbasids’ caliphate, an independent state of Shirvanshahs emerged as one of the most significant with its new capital in Icheri Sheher. It was the time of prosperity, development of new crafts and construction of architectural monuments that still adorn the old town today – two rows of fortress walls, the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, multiple mosques, hamams, etc. During the 16th-18th centuries, handicraft, including carpet weaving<\/a> developed which in 2010 was added to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity<\/a>.<\/p>\n In 1806, when Baku was occupied by the Russian Empire during the Russo-Persian War. There were 500 households,707 shops, and 7,000 inhabitants in Icheri Sheher\u00a0(then the only neighborhood of Baku), almost all of whom were ethnic Tats<\/a>. Once the port was re-opened for trade, and in 1809 a customs office was established,\u00a0Baku started to extend beyond the city walls, and new neighborhoods emerged, as well as the terms Icheri Sheher\u00a0and Bayir Sheher<\/span>\u00a0(Outer city)<\/em>.<\/i>\u00a0Referring to the early Russian rule, Bakuvian actor Huseyngulu Sarabski<\/a> wrote in his memoirs:”Baku was divided into two sections: Ichari Shahar and Bayir Shahar. The Inner City was the main part. Those who lived in the Inner City were considered natives of Baku. They were in close proximity to everything: the bazaar, craftsmen’s workshops and mosques. There was even a church there, as well as a military barracks built during the Russian occupation. Residents who lived inside the walls considered themselves to be superior to those outside and often referred to them as the “barefooted people of the Outer City”.\u00a0<\/i>With the discovery of oil the traditional architectural look of the Old City changed. Many European buildings in Baroque and Gothic styles were constructed during the 19th century and early 20th century, which, in my view, added to the charm and diversity of Icheri Sheher.<\/p>\n During my 3 days in Baku, I kept coming back to Icheri Sheher over and over again, browsing its narrow crooked streets and discovering more hidden gems. I found the Icherisheher audio-guide<\/strong><\/a> (rent at the booth next to the Maiden Tower, allow 2-3 hours, 5 manat – $4.75) to be very useful to get a comprehensive and detailed information about the old city. It came with a precise\u00a0map\u00a0and well-marked sites throughout the city. Well, I have to admit that\u00a0despite its history that goes to the times before Christ, Icheri Sheher\u00a0doesn’t look very old, au contraire, it has a\u00a0very modern feel to it. I guess after being “schooled” by the UNESCO for the poor conservation and “dubious” restoration efforts, Azerbaijan’s attempt to “make it right” went so far as to convert the old city into authentic yet a movie set.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n I start the exploration of Icheri Sheher from the most recognizable (and convenient) place – The Maiden Tower and follow the route given by the audio-guide.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The Maiden Tower (p.2 on the map)\u00a0<\/strong>(<\/em>Q\u0131z Qalas\u0131\u2014\u0413\u044b\u0437 \u0433\u0430\u043b\u0430\u0441\u044b,<\/span>\u00a0\u0414\u0435\u0432\u0438\u0447\u044c\u044f \u0431\u0430\u0448\u043d\u044f)\u00a0<\/em>– 2 manat ($1.90), allow 20-30 mins. Built in the 12th century, this 29.5m high tower is one of Azerbaijan’s most distinctive national emblems and a UNESCO Historical monument.\u00a0There are a number of competing explanations for the name, the most prominent of which is the legend of a wealthy ruler (Khan of Baku) who fell in love with his own daughter and asked her to marry him. Revolted by the thought of incest but unable to disobey her father she commanded that he build her a tower high enough to survey the full extend of his domain. On a wedding day, when the tower was finally completed, she climbed to the roof and\u00a0threw herself off to her death in the waves below.\u00a0<\/span>In some sources she is said to be the sister, rather than the daughter, of the king who came to be incarcerated by her brother. A better translation of Qiz Qalasi would be “virgin tower”, metaphorically alluding to military impenetrability rather than any association with tragic females. It was certainly an incredibly massive structure for its era, with walls 5 m thick at the base and an unusual projecting buttress.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n One of the oldest buildings in Baku, it was believed that the tower foundations, which extend 15m below ground level and the bottom three stories above ground, were originally built between the 4th-6th centuries and then later in the 12th century. However, recent discoveries of the wooden girders at the base of the tower, used to resist earthquakes, imply that the tower was built at one go. Scientists and historians have long been unable to reach common ground concerning the Maiden Tower’s purpose, which still remains a mystery.<\/p>\n The tower’s 8 stories\u00a0are divided by stone floors which are connected by a staircase in the south-eastern section of the wall (once there was no staircase between the first and second floors).\u00a0There are two vertical shafts within the tower wall. One is a stone-cased water-well opening onto the third floor. The second narrow shaft, running down from the top floor through the whole tower, includes ceramic pipes slotted into each other; their purpose is still unclear. Today, the Maiden Tower interior contains some old photographs, a souvenir shop and a costume photo opp, but its highlight is the rooftop viewpoint surveying Baku Bay and Icheri Sheher.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n To the right\u00a0of the Maiden Tower is one of the most beautiful buildings of old Baku – House of Isabek Hajinsky <\/strong>(\u0130sa b\u0259y \u018fbd\u00fclsalam b\u0259y o\u011flu Hac\u0131nski, \u0434\u043e\u043c \u0418\u0441\u0430\u0431\u0435\u043a\u0430 \u0413\u0430\u0434\u0436\u0438\u043d\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0433\u043e)<\/em> –<\/strong>\u00a0built in the years 1910-1912 in the style of German Gothic. At the time, the building was quite shocking and stood out against the background of the flat roofs of Baku’s traditional houses.\u00a0There is a funny story\u00a0associated with this building. It is said that during its\u00a0construction the workers forgot to build a sewer and this unfortunate mistake was discovered only\u00a0during the inauguration of the building. Hadjinsky’s architect admitted the mistake and promised to correct it however, for a long time, the building\u00a0was called “the house without a sewer.” By the way, important to mentioned\u00a0that Charles de Gaulle<\/a> stayed at this very building during his visit to the Soviet Union. It is said that on the occasion of the visit, a huge French tricolor of Sheki silk was\u00a0woven to impress an important guest.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Haji Bani Hammam (p.3 on the map)\u00a0<\/strong>(Hac\u0131 Qayib hamam\u0131,\u00a0\u0411\u0430\u043d\u044f \u0425\u0430\u0434\u0436\u0438 \u0413\u0430\u0438\u0431\u0430<\/em>) is a bathhouse built in the late 15th century that carries the name of its architect. In the old city, each mahalla (community) had its own hammam. According to their architectural design, the lower half of the hammam was underground to ensure that the building was warm in winter and cool in summer. The hammam also served as a place for conversations and in many ways assumed the role of a social club. In addition to their sanitary and hygienic functions, hammams were also the best place to spend relaxing, leisure time. For long time, this bathhouse had remained underground and was discovered during the archaeological works\u00a0of\u00a01964.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Close to the Maiden Tower, the remains of Saint Bartholomew Church (p.4 on the map)<\/strong> (\u0426\u0435\u0440\u043a\u043e\u0432\u044c \u0421\u0432\u044f\u0442\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0412\u0430\u0440\u0444\u043e\u043b\u043e\u043c\u0435\u044f) <\/em>can be found. Bartholomew was one of the Twelve Apostles of Jesus Christ, who in the 1st century A.D. came to Baku to evangelize the Gospel. He preached Christianity where fire-worship traditions had been deep-rooted and for that in A.D. 71 he was crucified in front of the Maiden Tower. In 1892, Saint Bartholomew Church was built on the area of an ancient temple, but unfortunately it was destroyed during the Soviet period, as were many other religious monuments. However, fragments of the chapel foundation still remain to this day.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Market Square, Arcades and Burial Places (p.5 on the map) <\/strong>(Khanegah, Bazar meydan\u0131, \u0411\u0430\u0437\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u044f \u043f\u043b\u043e\u0449\u0430\u0434\u044c).\u00a0<\/em>This is the place where Sufi sheikhs lived and preached. Khenegahs were typically situated on caravan trade routes and included a complex of monuments such as mosques, tombs, hammams, caravaserais and other religious and public buildings. After their death, sheikhs were usually buried here and their followers were often buried next to them. After time, Khanegah\u00a0were perceived to be sacred and became the places of pilgrimage. During archeological digs conducted on this site in 1964, more than 50 graves were discovered here. Presently, you could see\u00a0multiple tomb stones placed on the square as well as funerary slabs orderly displayed on the walls. It reminded me more of a meditative Japanese garden than a Sufi burial place, many of which\u00a0that\u00a0I visited in India.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Bukhara and Multani Caravanserais (p.6 on the map) <\/strong>(Buxara karvansaray\u0131, Multani karvansaray\u0131,\u00a0\u0411\u0443\u0445\u0430\u0440\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0439 \u0438 \u041c\u0443\u043b\u0442\u0430\u043d\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0439 \u041a\u0430\u0440\u0430\u0432\u0430\u043d-\u0441\u0430\u0440\u0430\u0438).\u00a0<\/em>These caravanserais, or medieval hotels, were situated on caravan routes and were temporary places of trade and residence for Multani (present Pakistan) and Bukharan (present Uzbekistan) merchants. Built for the travelers protection but also for the newcomers who were trying to fit together or get to know the region better, this kind of caravanserai served as embassies and cultural\u00a0hubs, as well as one or another of the region’s market places. By the 20th century, Multani Caravanserai was completely destroyed but fully restored to its original plan in 1973-74, while original parts of the west facade, south-west rooms and entrance portal remained of Bukhara caravanserai.<\/p>\n The Multani Caravanserai<\/a> (dating from the 14th century) is located on Qulle (Tower) Street and was built in a traditional style as an octagonal courtyard (35m by 35m)\u00a0with a simple facade and isolated living quarters. Its name\u00a0is related to\u00a0the frequent visits of fire worshippers from Multan city to Baku and their construction of the “Ateshgah<\/a>”\u00a0temple in Surakhany on Absheron. Caravanserai\u00a0had a total of 10 rooms – some of which were\u00a0covered with a hexagonal arched\u00a0canopy that went through the courtyard, while others were of\u00a0the same height, width, and\u00a0had their\u00a0own balconies.\u00a0Multani caravanserai cellar is one of the most interesting parts of this monument –\u00a0\u00a0now in the basement of the house, it used to be the first floor of the caravanserai\u00a0– and was designed to keep animals and store merchandise. Decorated with\u00a0the ancient Azeri carpets,\u00a0jewelry, carpets and kilims, old cisterns\u00a0and paintings, this place makes you become a part of the story of Ali Baba and forty thieves<\/a>.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The Bukhara Caravanserai, located opposite the Multani Caravanserai, was built in the late 15th century along a commercial road passing through the Shamakhy Gate. This is a one-storey caravanserai, but it is\u00a0assumed that other floors remained underground. The Bukhara caravanserai, which consists of 17 rooms, has a circular shape with an original 15th century\u00a0pool in the middle of the courtyard. It is a perfect place to sit down and enjoy\u00a0some traditional Azerbaijani tea.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Moving further along Qulle Street (house #18), you can visit the House Museum of Kamil Aliyev <\/strong>(\u0414\u043e\u043c-\u043c\u0443\u0437\u0435\u0439 \u041a\u0430\u043c\u0438\u043b\u044f \u0410\u043b\u0438\u0435\u0432\u0430)<\/em>, who was a national carpet artist of Azerbaijan. It is impossible to express the uniqueness of the Azerbaijani carpets with words! The riot of colors, the motives rich in ornaments, and unique mixture of themes are all hallmarks of the detailed, long time work of Azerba\u0133ani carpet makers. In every Azeri\u00a0home, carpets are always in plain view, whether displayed on a floor, hung on a wall, provided\u00a0as a dowry, inherited or given as a gift for a special occasion. Carpets are also presented to diplomats and heads of state. Exactly the carpets of this kind were woven by Kamil Aliyev<\/a> (1921-2005). His\u00a0house-museum is situated in a four-storeyed stone building where the artist lived only for 11 months before his death at the age of 83. The museum displays 127 of Aliyev\u2019s carpets, including miniatures and patchworks\u00a0as well as some works that were never completed.<\/p>\n “House with Chains” and “House of Sailor” (p.7 on the map)<\/strong> (\u0414\u043e\u043c \u0441 \u0446\u0435\u043f\u044f\u043c\u0438\u00a0<\/em>\u0438\u00a0\u0414\u043e\u043c \u043c\u043e\u0440\u044f\u043a\u0430)<\/em>. The estate named \u201cThe house with chains\u201d (because of the statue with chains decorating the roof of the building) was constructed in late 19th – early 20th centuries and owned by a merchant Hadji Mammadhuseyn Mammadov. In 1928 the estate was bought by famous brothers merchants Melikov, however, already in 1930 the estate was confiscated by the government and converted into a clothing factory. However, it is still commonly known as the Melikovs\u2019 estate. Owing to the architectural style and aesthetic appearance the “House with chains” has special place among the architectural monuments constructed in Icheri Sherer in early 20th century. Presently the building serves as the Museum of Archeological and Ethnography Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Right next to the house of Melikov, on the left side, there is a “House of Sailor”\u00a0of\u00a0Abdul Manaf Alekperov<\/a>. Abdul Manaf was a military navigator who spent so much time at sea, that he decided to built his house\u00a0in a form of a\u00a0ship’s deck. They say that he was very strict with his children, making them salut him\u00a0and raised the flag every time he returned home from the sea.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The narrow street between “The House with Chains” and “The House of Sailor”\u00a0is also home\u00a0to the well-known “house with cats”.\u00a0Story goes that\u00a0this house once belonged to a judge, who was very cruel.\u00a0One day his two\u00a0children were playing at home with a cat who ran out\u00a0and jumped out of the window. Children tried to stop the cat and fell out of the window themselves. The cat, of course, survived, but\u00a0children didn’t, which led people believe\u00a0that God sent a punishment to the judge for his cruelty. Again, these are legends of the Icheri Sheher\u00a0and whether it is true or not, no one knows\u00a0…<\/p>\n On the same side with the “House of Sailor”\u00a0are the remains of the Baku Khans Residence<\/a>\u00a0(p.8 on the map) <\/strong>(Bak\u0131 xanlar\u0131n\u0131n evi,\u00a0\u0414\u043e\u043c \u0431\u0430\u043a\u0438\u043d\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0445 \u0445\u0430\u043d\u043e\u0432)<\/em>, an architectural monument of the 18th century. This complex, consisting of\u00a0five enclosed courtyards, gardens with pools and flowers, was a residence of the last Baku khan – Husayn Quli Khan, his family members – Abdurrahim bey and Mehdigulu bey between 1747 to 1806. The entrance, in the form of a curved arch, still exists and contains an inscription with the alleged date of its construction. In 1806 when the Baku Khanate was annexed to Russia, general Bulghakov lived at the residency; he ordered the gilded oil paintings on the walls of the Khans residence to be removed. Now only the entrance portal and a small restored mosque have survived. The underground bathhouse in the low part of the fortress walls in the territory of the Khans’ palace still remains unearthed. The latest excavations\u00a0of\u00a01985- 86\u00a0revealed\u00a0a lot of cultural samples, a water supply system and underground architectural constructions. Sadly, the Palace Complex is in ruins and presently serves as a workers’ warehouse while the Official Administration of State Historical-Architectural Reserve “Icherisheher” informed media that they have whatsoever no intentions to repair the palace.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Building of National Encyclopedia<\/a> and remains of St. Nicholas Church <\/a>(p.9 on the map) <\/strong>(AMEA- Milli Ensiclopediya,\u00a0\u0417\u0434\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0435 \u041d\u0430\u0446\u0438\u043e\u043d\u0430\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u0439 \u042d\u043d\u0446\u0438\u043a\u043b\u043e\u043f\u0435\u0434\u0438\u0438,\u00a0M\u00fcq\u0259dd\u0259s Nikolay kils\u0259si, \u0440\u0430\u0437\u0432\u0430\u043b\u0438\u043d\u044b \u0421\u043e\u0431\u043e\u0440\u0430 \u0421\u0432. \u041d\u0438\u043a\u043e\u043b\u0430\u044f \u0427\u0443\u0434\u043e\u0442\u0432\u043e\u0440\u0446\u0430). <\/em>The Soviet-looking building of AMEA isn’t of much interest to us, but it stands on\/or near the site where the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas was built\u00a0between 1850-1857. Until 1818 Baku had no permanent church, except for one mobile military parish, called the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker Miro-Lycian, and housed on the site of\u00a0mosque in the so-called “dark ranks” in the fortress. In January 1831 the Orthodox population of the city petitioned for the construction in Baku of the new stone church of St. Nicholas and two decades later, on March 18, 1950 a ceremonial laying of the temple finally took place. Constructed and completed in 1858 by the Tbilisi architect Belov the St. Nicholas church was made of surface-tooled stone in an Eastern architectural style. The cathedral was about 45m high, built in the shape of a four-armed cross in the Georgian-Byzantine style and had an altar to the north and two thrones. The church had\u00a0five bells on a three-tiered bell tower and was\u00a0able to\u00a0accommodate\u00a0500 prayers. Unfortunately, in 1930 the church was partially destroyed and only its lower part has survived.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n And finally I got to\u00a0the main attraction of the walled Icheri Sheher – the actual\u00a0City Walls <\/strong>(\u0413\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0434\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0435 \u0441\u0442\u0435\u043d\u044b) <\/em>and\u00a0The\u00a0Double Gates\u00a0<\/strong>(Qosha Qala Gapisi, Shamakhy gates,\u00a0\u015eamax\u0131 qap\u0131lar\u0131,<\/span>\u00a0<\/em>\u0428\u0435\u043c\u0430\u0445\u0438\u043d\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0435 \u0432\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0442\u0430)<\/em>\u00a0<\/em>(p.10 and p.11 on the map).\u00a0<\/strong>Of the 500-m section of Baku\u2019s fortress walls (8-10m in height and 3-3.5m in width) which remains intact, the grandest and stateliest feature stands at the junction of Nizami Square and Youth Square.\u00a0The very well-preserved \u00a0Double “Shamakhy” Gate connects two of the city\u2019s most beautiful areas \u2013 ancient Baku and the “Outer City”. And even today, the sumptuous mansions built outside the city walls by Baku millionaires during the “oil boom”, compete for their wealth of appearance, the delicacy of their architecture and the beauty of their wall motifs with the houses inside Icheri Sheher.\u00a0The fortress walls, which now separate medieval city from capitalist city, have a unique history. The most ancient part of these walls was erected in the 12th century, by order of Shirvanshah III Manuchehr (A.D. 1120-1160). This was discovered during restoration work when a three-line text was found on a stone of the wall. Written in Arabic script, it read: “The construction of this wall was ordered by the glorious, wise, just, victorious, ruling monarch… supporter of Islam and of Muslims, the great Shirvanshah Abdul Khoja Manujohr”<\/em>.<\/p>\n So, the fortress wall encircled\u00a0Baku three centuries before the famous Palace of the Shirvanshahs was built. And until the middle of the 19th century, the city was surrounded by a double fortress wall on land and a single earth barrier on the sea side. In addition, in the southern part of the earth barrier, there were two further walls, perpendicular to the barrier – bent towards the sea and extended into the Caspian, they created a very reliable sheltered harbour for ships. The outer part of the walls was surrounded by moats, and in case of an attack, the moats were filled with water through special canals. In addition, there was also a moat between the outer and inner fortress walls. The moat was filled with oil and set afire during enemy attacks. Thus, in order to try to capture the city, one had to go through fire and water. While the inner wall of the Baku fortress, the higher of the two, was built in 12th century, the lower outer barrier was erected in 1608-1609, during the reign of Shah Abbas, of the Safavid dynasty by the then ruler of the city, Zulfuqar khan. However, from 1826 Baku\u2019s fortress was\u00a0no longer used for its\u00a0original purpose and the walls were “renovated” to facilitate the installation of artillery mountings (the current merlon crenellations were restored in the 1930s).<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The “oil boom” of\u00a01872 brought an influx\u00a0of workers\u00a0and migrants that the ancient Oriental fortress city could no longer accommodate, hence a\u00a0question of the city’s extension emerged. At\u00a0first it was planned to tackle the problem by means of an apparently simple expedient \u2013 demolishing Baku\u2019s ancient fortress walls, to which his\u00a0Majesty Tsar Aleksandr II responded “on 1 August of the same year, 1870, showed high courtesy and allowed: the filling of the ditch and demolition of the field fortification… in front of the Baku fortress; and to preserve the old walls as a monument of the ancient period\u201d. <\/em>Now, we can only\u00a0imagine\u00a0the external appearance of the Baku fortress walls, however, certain traces of them still\u00a0remain. The Shah Abbas gate (the right-hand side of the present-day Double Gate) located right in front of the Shamakhy gate in the inner wall was the main gate in the outer wall. After instructions were received to demolish the outer wall, city craftsmen, in order to preserve\u00a0the Shah Abbas gate, decided to move it to the inner wall of the Baku fortress. Nowadays, when you look closely at the fortress\u2019s double gate, you can see that the color of the coating stone in the left-hand arch is lighter. This is the only sign that it was built later.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The craftsmen were able\u00a0to preserve the bas-relief, Baku\u2019s medieval symbol, on both gates. This symbol existed long before the development of industry in Baku and the flurry generated by oil extraction.\u00a0Down to the present day, on both – the Shamakhy gate and the Shah Abbas gate – there is a stone \u201cclew\u201d with two small circles around it, made by a skillful artisan.\u00a0This graphic and very interesting sample of medieval oriental heraldry contains many elements. When the German traveller and scientist Engelbert Kaempfer <\/a>was in Baku in 1683, he tried to unravel the meaning of this ancient city coat of arms with the help of local experts. Kaempfer believed that the bull\u2019s head depicted on the coat of arms is a symbol of the ancient city of Baku itself. Since the land was very dry here and it was often crossed by very strong winds, people living in the city were unable to grow crops and so they\u00a0bred cattle instead. Many scientists believe that the bull and the cow were the most ancient totems of the Absheroni population. These images can be found in rock paintings, in places where people lived and, later, on money.\u00a0Therefore, the image of a bull\u2019s head on the ancient coat of arms is a local symbol.\u00a0As for the lions, their depiction on Baku\u2019s coat of arms is probably designed to maintain West Asia\u2019s heraldic traditions and links to oriental culture.\u00a0The unique feature of the lions on Baku\u2019s coat of arms is that they have no swords in their hands. However, this does not detract from their grandeur at all. Along with the bull, the Sun and the Moon are also often depicted on ancient city heraldry. The Sun is a symbol of day and the Moon is a symbol of night, it could be that the small circles near the bulls\u2019 head bear the same meaning.\u00a0Hence, according to Kaempfer, the meaning of the coat of arms on the main entrance gate to the fortress is as follows: “The lions (meaning the fortress walls) guard the Bull (meaning the city) both at night (the Moon) and in the day (the Sun)”. Take a walk along those walls as they\u00a0represent a living historical thread, linking ancient Baku with old and modern Baku.<\/p>\n\n
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