{"id":2606,"date":"2015-07-28T13:50:46","date_gmt":"2015-07-28T17:50:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/svetanyc.com\/?p=2606"},"modified":"2017-02-18T13:33:35","modified_gmt":"2017-02-18T18:33:35","slug":"index-html","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/192.168.2.119:1984\/svetanyc\/2015\/07\/index-html\/","title":{"rendered":"Georgia. July 2015"},"content":{"rendered":"
The Alps we already knew, and the Pyrenees, but this was finer than anything we had ever seen or even imagined in our wildest dreams! This was the Caucasus….How I wish I had brought my copy of Aeschylus!<\/em><\/p>\n Alexandre Dumas p\u00e8re (1858)<\/p>\n “It is a magical place, Georgia,” wrote John Steinbeck<\/a> during a visit in the late 1940s, “and it becomes dream-like the moment you have left it.” Georgia’s landscape, wine and extravagant people consistently win it friends. John Steinbeck heard from Russians about Georgia’s charm long before he set foot here. “Wherever we had been in Russia, in Moscow, in the Ukraine, in Stalingrad, the magical name of Georgia came up constantly….. They spoke of the country in the Caucasus and around the Black Sea as a kind of second heaven.” Indeed, Georgia<\/a>\u00a0perhaps is the world’s most beautiful country – from sublimely perched marionette\u00a0churches and fantastic mountain scenery to green vineyards and sunny\u00a0beaches. It is the second oldest Christian state in the world and the most “Caucasian” among its neighbors, Armenia and Azerbaijan. Equally special are its proud, high-spirited, cultured, loyal and compassionate people, whose generous spirit was rightfully captured in the 12th century Georgian poet Shota Rustaveli<\/a>‘s aphorism about his people “What you give is yours, what you keep is lost”. If I were to write about hospitality, Caucasian and, particularly, Georgian hospitality would have neither boundaries nor equivalents in the world, it is the very stuff of life. Locals\u00a0will greet\u00a0you as the most-welcome\u00a0guest, and often, as a blessing, and see you off as the dearest sister (or brother). Even though USSR dissolved over 20 years ago, everywhere I went, Georgians considered me as their fellow country-woman – we spoke the same language, Russian (lingua franca\u00a0<\/em>of\u00a0Soviet time) and we shared the same history. For old and young (unlike in Azerbaijan) I was one of them and all of them had a few good things to say either about Belarus or my people.<\/p>\n A deeply complicated history and location, at the Eurasian crossroads, have given Georgia a wonderful heritage of architecture and art, from cave cities to the inimitable canvases of Pirosmani<\/a>. Georgia claims to be the birthplace of wine, but without doubt, as the inheritor of an ancient culture, it produced Byzantine-era emperors as well as remarkable figures, such as -Ioseb Besarionis dze Jughashvili, known by millions as Joseph Stalin<\/a> and George Balanchine<\/a>\u00a0– the founder of the American ballet. Georgian beautiful polyphonic singing is genuinely unique, a seldom claim among other Caucasian cultures, that look outward to Iran and the Middle East; its writing is like a re-arrangement of flower petals; its karakul sheep papakhas<\/a> and chokhas<\/a>\u00a0can never be mistaken with any other national dress, and its traditional dance is like nothing you’ve seen in your life.<\/p>\n https:\/\/youtu.be\/ujo65bBRQ4I<\/p>\n My very first encounter with Caucasus and Georgia, as I mentioned in my Azerbaijan blog<\/a><\/strong>, was through literary works of A. Pushkin<\/a>, M. Lermontov<\/a> and L.Tolstoy<\/a>. However, the image of Georgian people also came from the movies inspired by the WWII events – as there was always a\u00a0Georgian solder, fighting alongside his Red Army comrades. Despite the context and the tragic events of the Great Patriotic War<\/a>, the Georgian character was always the luminous one, the most uplifting, friendly and humorous. In the reality of war, and in my childhood\u00a0movies, all characters would eventually die, but I remember mourning the death of a Georgian solder\u00a0the most. Another childhood memory I cherish was the one of my grandmother, who as a doctor in Kapyl<\/a>, a small town in Belarus, was entitled to a yearly 30-day state-sponsored vacation at a sanatorium (recreational area) in Batumi, Georgia’s main\u00a0Black Sea resort. It was her favorite place on earth, and\u00a0according to her – a “paradise”. That is why and how my 11-day trip “Baku to Batumi” came about. My travels around Azerbaijan can be found here<\/a>\u00a0and could be considered as prequel to this blog.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Literature.<\/strong><\/p>\n In\u00a0Sheki<\/a>\u00a0(Azerbaijan) I hired a taxi for about $90 to take me to Tbilisi via Balakan –\u00a0Lagodekhi<\/a>\u00a0(Azerbaijan-Georgia) border post. We left Sheki early in the morning and it took us about 2-2.5 hours to reach the border crossing. As I mentioned in my Azerbaijan blog, the part of the Azeri customs I had to walk with my suitcase in hand, though my newly purchased carpet remained in the car with a driver and when he mentioned that it was a new (and not antique) carpet, custom officers let him through without any problems. Crossing the Georgian customs was a bit more hassle, simply because they wanted to know how much cash and gold I was bringing with me\u00a0to Georgia. After everything was cleared, off we went without any delays. For 160 kms and almost 3 hours I enjoyed the splendid views of Georgia’s countryside before finally\u00a0catching the first glimpse of the\u00a0capital – Tbilisi.<\/p>\n History.<\/strong><\/p>\n The discovery of fossilized skulls, 1.8 million years old, in Dmanisi<\/a>,\u00a0in 1991-2005, sent Georgians into a frenzy. Stenciled images of “Zezva” and “Mzia”<\/a>, as these newly imagined first European settlers were nicknamed, proliferated on Tbilisi’s walls. Dmanisi proved that the earliest human settlers in Europe were in Georgia, and without extra modesty they were classified as\u00a0Homo erectus georgicus<\/a>. Diauehi<\/a>, a tribal union of early-Georgians<\/a>, first appeared in written history in the 12th century B.C.\u00a0Archaeological finds and references in ancient sources reveal elements of early political and state formations characterized by advanced metallurgy and goldsmith techniques.\u00a0As a result of cultural and geographic delimitation,by the end of the 8th century B.C. two core areas of future Georgian culture and statehood formed in western Georgia, as the Kingdom of Colchis<\/a>\u00a0and as the Kingdom of Kartli (also known as\u00a0Iberia<\/a>) in eastern Georgia. The Georgians know themselves as Kartvelebi<\/em> and their country as Saqartvelo<\/em> (land of the Kartvalebi), tracing their origins to the nation\u00a0of Kartli and Noah’s great-great-grandson Kartlos<\/a>.\u00a0A definitive etymology of European term “Georgia” has never been established, but it has been explained by various theories as derived from the Greek words \u03b3\u03b5\u03c9\u03c1\u03b3\u03cc\u03c2 (“tiller of the land”) and georgicus<\/em> (“agricultural”),\u00a0the name of St. George<\/a>, the\u00a0Persian designation for Georgians, or the confluence of several of these theories. Word “Gruzia” (“\u0413\u0440\u0443\u0437\u0438\u044f”) as the country is known in Russian and several other languages, comes from\u00a0“Gurjana”, “Gurzan” of\u00a0Arab-Persian and Syrian origins.<\/p>\n The kingdom of Colchis, which existed from the 6th to the 1st centuries B.C. is regarded as the first early Georgian state formation.\u00a0In Greek mythology, Colchis was home to sorceress Medea<\/a> and held the famous Golden Fleece<\/a>, sought by Jason<\/a> and the Argonauts<\/a>\u00a0in the epic tale “Argonautica<\/a>“. According to several modern scholars, the incorporation of the Golden Fleece into the myth may have derived from the western Georgian practice of using fleeces to sift gold dust from the mountain rivers. Starting around 2000\u00a0B.C., northwestern Colchis was inhabited by the Svan<\/a> and Zan<\/a> peoples of the Kartvelian tribes, along with Greeks who between 1000 and 550\u00a0B.C. established many trading colonies in the coastal area.\u00a0Between 653 and 333\u00a0B.C., both Colchis and Kartli\u00a0survived successive invasions by the Iranian Median Empire<\/a>\u00a0and the Achaemenid<\/a>\u00a0Empire, remaining independent.\u00a0At the end of the 4th century B.C. southern Kartli\u00a0witnessed the invading armies of Alexander the Great<\/a>. Even though neither Kartli nor Colchis was incorporated into the empire of Alexander or any of the successor Hellenistic states of the Middle East,\u00a0the culture of ancient Greece still had a considerable influence on the region, and Greek was widely spoken in the cities of Colchis (in Kartli –\u00a0Aramaic<\/a> was dominant language).<\/sup><\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n In 66 B.C., the Roman Empire<\/a> completed its conquest of the Caucasus region, incorporating Colchis as one of its provinces. The political arrangement was different for Kartli\u00a0which\u00a0became a vassal kingdom\u00a0–\u00a0it enjoyed significant independence and, with the lowlands frequently raided by fierce mountain tribes, paying a nominal homage to Rome in exchange for protection was a worthwhile investment.\u00a0As a result of these processes, the early Georgian kingdoms were intermittently Roman client states and allies for nearly 400 years.<\/p>\n From the first centuries A.D., the cult of Mithras<\/a>, Greco-Roman mysteries<\/a>, paganism<\/a>, Zoroastrianism<\/a>, idolatry<\/a>, and various local mythical beliefs<\/a> were commonly practiced in Georgia. In the 4th century, a Greek-speaking Roman woman, Saint Nino<\/a>, began preaching Christianity in the kingdom. Having cured the queen\u00a0Nana<\/a> of a mysterious illness, St. Nino convinced her and her husband,\u00a0King Mirian<\/a>\u00a0to accept Christian<\/a>\u00a0faith. In A.D. 337, a quarter century after Armenia, Mirian officially declared Christianity as the state religion, a move\u00a0that\u00a0effectively tied the kingdom to the neighboring Eastern Roman Empire<\/a>\u00a0–\u00a0which exerted a strong influence on Georgia for nearly a millennium, determining much of its present cultural identity.\u00a0Christianity also\u00a0gave great stimulus to the development of Georgian literature, arts, and ultimately playing a key role in the formation of the unified Georgian nation. In the 5th century, western Georgia became tied to the expanding Byzantine Empire, while Kartli fell under Persian control.\u00a0At the end of the 5th century though, Prince Vakhtang I Gorgasali<\/a>\u00a0(447-502) orchestrated an anti-Persian uprising and restored Kartli\u00a0statehood, proclaiming himself the King and moving his capital from Mtskheta to Tbilisi. After this, his\u00a0armies launched several campaigns against both Persia and the Byzantine Empire, however, his struggle for the independence and unity of the Georgian state did not have lasting success. In 591 Byzantium and Persia decisively agreed to divide Kartli\u00a0between themselves, with Tbilisi to be in Persian hands and\u00a0Mtskheta to be under Byzantine control.\u00a0By the late 7th century, the Byzantine-Persian<\/a> rivalry for the Middle East had given way to Arab conquest of the region.<\/p>\n Resistance to the Arabs was spearheaded by the Bagrationi dynasty<\/a> of Tao-Klarjeti<\/a>, a collection of principalities straddling what are now southwest Georgia and northeast Turkey. They later added Kartli to their possessions and when in 1001 these were inherited by King Bagrat III<\/a> of Abkhazia (northwest Georgia), most of Georgia became united under one rule. The Seljuq Turk<\/a> invasion set things back, but the Seljuqs were gradually driven out by the young king David IV<\/a>\u00a0(Davit\u00a0Aghmashenebeli, “David the Builder”) (1089-1125) who defeated them at Battle of Didgori<\/a> in 1122, recaptured nearby Tbilisi and made it his capital. David IV made Georgia the major Caucasian power and a center of Christian culture, however it reached its zenith under his great-granddaughter Queen Tamar<\/a> (1160-1213), whose writ extended over much of present day Azerbaijan, Armenia, part of Turkey and southern Russia.\u00a0Tamar became the first female ruler of Georgia, and her 29-year reign is considered to be the most successful in the nation’s history.\u00a0<\/span>She managed to shield much of her Empire from further Turkish onslaught and successfully pacified internal tensions, including a coup organized by her\u00a0Russian husband Yury Bogolyubsky<\/a>, prince of Novgorod<\/a>. The temporary fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1204 to the Crusaders left Georgia and Bulgarian Empire as the strongest Christian states in the whole East Mediterranean area. The same year Queen Tamar sent her troops to take over the former Byzantine Lazona and Paryadria and in 1205, the occupied territory was transformed into the Empire of Trebizond<\/a>, which was dependent on Georgia (and Tamar’s relative Prince Alexios Komnenos<\/a> was crowned as its Emperor). Additionally, she pursued policies that were considered very enlightened for her time period, such as abolishing state-sanctioned death penalty and torture. Tamar is still so revered that Georgians today call her, without irony, King Tamar.<\/p>\n The golden age ended violently with the arrival of Mongols<\/a> in the 1220s. King Giorgi the Brilliant<\/a> (1286-1346) shook off the Mongol yoke, but then came the Black Death<\/a>.\u00a0Georgia’s geopolitical situation worsened after the Fall of Constantinople<\/a>, which effectively marked the end of the Eastern Roman Empire and turned Georgia into an isolated Christian enclave, surrounded by hostile Turco-Iranic neighbors. Renewed incursions<\/a>\u00a0by Timur<\/a> (Tamerlane)\u00a0from 1386 led to the final collapse of the kingdom into anarchy and its split into multiple kingdoms by the end of the 15th century.\u00a0Large neighboring empires were quick to exploit Georgia’s weakness, and from 16th to 18th centuries, the Ottoman Turkey<\/a> and Iran subjugated the western and eastern regions of Georgia, respectively.\u00a0For these few centuries, Georgia would become a battleground between these two great rival powers and the Georgian states would sink into poverty and despair while struggling to maintain their independence by various means.\u00a0Since at least the mid-15th century, rulers in both western and eastern Georgian kingdoms have repeatedly sought aid from Western European powers to no avail.\u00a0A notable episode of this type of effort was initiated in the early 1700s by a Georgian diplomat Sulkhan-Saba Orbeliani<\/a>, who was sent by his former pupil, King Vakhtang VI<\/a>, to France and the Vatican in order to secure assistance for Georgia. Orbeliani was well received by King Louis XIV<\/a> and Pope Clement XI<\/a>, but no tangible support\u00a0could be secured.\u00a0Lack of Western assistance not only left Georgia exposed but sealed the personal fates of Orbeliani and King Vakhtang – pushed by the invading Ottoman army, both were eventually forced to accept the offer of protection from Peter the Great<\/a> and escape to Russia, from where they never returned.\u00a0In modern-day Georgia, the story of Orbeliani’s diplomatic mission to France became a symbol of how the West neglects Georgian appeals for protection. In 1744 a new Persian conqueror, Nader Shah<\/a>, installed local Bagratid princes as kings of Kartli and Kakheti. After Nader Shah’s assassination, the Persians were expelled and for the first time in 300 years, King\u00a0Erekle II<\/a>, ruled unified eastern\u00a0Georgia as a independent state from 1762 till 1798.<\/p>\n In 1783, Russia and the eastern Georgian Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti<\/a> signed the Treaty of Georgievsk<\/a>, in\u00a0which they recognized the bond of Orthodox Christianity<\/a>\u00a0between the Russian and Georgian people, established Georgia as a protectorate of Russia, and guaranteed Georgia’s territorial integrity and the continuation of its reigning Bagrationi dynasty in return for prerogatives in the conduct of Georgian foreign affairs.\u00a0Georgia at the same time, according to the terms of the treaty, abjured any form of dependence on Iran or another power, and every new Georgian monarch would require the confirmation and investiture of the Russian tsar.\u00a0However, despite the commitment to defend Georgia, Russia rendered no assistance when the Iranians\u00a0invaded in 1795, capturing and sacking Tbilisi<\/a> while massacring its inhabitants, as the new heir to the throne sought to reassert Iranian hegemony over Georgia.\u00a0Despite a punitive campaign<\/a> subsequently launched by Russians against Qajar Iran in 1796, this period culminated in the 1801 Russian annexation (signed by Tsar\u00a0Paul I of Russia<\/a>\u00a0on January 8, 1801 and confirmed by Tsar\u00a0Alexander I<\/a> on September 12, 1801) of eastern Georgia, followed by the abolition of the royal Bagrationi dynasty, as well as the autocephaly<\/a> of the Georgian Orthodox Church<\/a>. \u00a0A part of the Georgian nobility did not accept the decree until April 1802 when General Knorring compassed the nobility in Tbilisi’s Sioni Cathedral and forced them to take an oath on the imperial crown of Russia.\u00a0From 1803 to 1878, as a result of numerous Russian wars against Turkey and Persia (ex.\u00a0Russo-Persian War (1804-1813) <\/a>and\u00a0the Treaty of Gulistan<\/a>) as well as\u00a0the suppression of King Solomon II<\/a>‘s resistance, eastern, southern and western (Imereti<\/a>) Georgian territories were annexed to the Russian Empire and together with Batumi<\/a>, Artvin<\/a>, Akhaltsikhe<\/a>, Poti<\/a>, and Abkhazia<\/a>, they represented the majority of the territory of the present state of Georgia. The country\u00a0was finally reunified for the first time in centuries but at the price of its independence.<\/p>\n The Russian Revolution<\/a> of October 1917 plunged the Empire into a bloody civil war during which several outlying Russian territories declared independence. Georgia was one of them, proclaiming the establishment of the independent Democratic Republic of Georgia<\/a>\u00a0on May 26, 1918, which\u00a0was recognized by major Western powers, as well as Soviet Russia itself (Treaty of Moscow (1920)<\/a>). To maintain its fledgling sovereignty and keep both Russia and Turkey at bay, Georgia became a protectorate of the\u00a0German Empire<\/a>, whose\u00a0involvement was short-lived but effective – Berlin pressured Turkey into respecting Georgia’s ethnic borders and by July 1918, Turkey handed over all Georgian ports and railways it had controlled up to that point. Germany also lent millions of deutschmarks to the new republic. Despite cordial German-Georgian relations, Germany had to retreat from the country shortly after Germans lost in World War I<\/a>.\u00a0Following the German defeat, Georgia came under British protection and influence, however,\u00a0Britain’s sole aim was to prevent Bolshevik Russia from acquiring oil fields near Baku<\/a> and the British General Cooke-Collins appeared to care little as to what happened inside Georgia. As a result of this myopic attitude, the British were less liked than the Germans, nevertheless, the locals continued to view Britain’s presence as a stabilizing force.<\/p>\n Due to the terms of the Moscow Treaty, Britain had to withdraw from Georgia in 1920. With both Germany and Britain now out of the picture, the Red Army\u00a0attacked<\/a> Georgia in February 1921, defeating its army and sending the Social-Democratic government into exile to France. On 25 February 1921, the Red Army entered Tbilisi and installed a communist government loyal to Moscow. At first, Georgia was incorporated into the Transcaucasian SFSR<\/a>, which united Georgia, Armenia<\/a> and Azerbaijan<\/a>. Later, in 1936, the TSFSR was disaggregated and Georgia became the Georgian SSR<\/a>.\u00a0Soviet rule was harsh – more than 150,000 were purged under Stalin and his secret police chief, the Georgian Lavrenty Beria<\/a>\u00a0between 1935\u20131951, nevertheless, Georgian nationalism was still at its height when on March 9, 1956, about a hundred Georgian students were killed<\/a> when they demonstrated against Nikita Khrushchev<\/a>‘s policy of de-Stalinization. The WWII didn’t reach Georgia, but along with other Caucasian countries, it contributed over 700,000 fighters to the Red Army, 350,000 of whom never returned home. Controversially, but not-unknown, a number of Georgians fought on the side of the German armed forces, forming the Georgian Legion<\/a>. The decentralization program introduced by Khrushchev in the mid-1950s was soon exploited by Georgian Communist Party that actively and tacitly supported a thriving pseudo-capitalist shadow economy which emerged alongside the official state-owned economy. While the official growth rate of the economy of the Georgia was among the lowest in the USSR, such indicators as savings level, rates of car and house ownership were the highest in the Union,\u00a0making Georgia one of the most economically successful Soviet republics. Widespread and blatant corruption in Georgia became an embarrassment to the authorities in Moscow.<\/p>\n Georgia’s independence movement became an unstoppable force after the death of 19 hunger strikers when Soviet troops broke up a protest in Tbilisi on 9 April 1989. Georgia’s now anti-Communist government, led by the nationalist Zviad Gamsakhurdia<\/a>, declared independence on 9 April 1991. Almost immediately the country descended into chaos and by December 1991 the newly elected president, Gamsakhurdia, was overthrown and replaced by a military council, led by invited from Moscow retirement\u00a0Eduard Shevarnadze<\/a>, a former leader of Soviet Georgia\u00a0and the Soviet Minister of Foreign Affairs. Shevarnadze’s presence did wonders for Georgia’s reputation abroad but didn’t diminish the internal conflict – the hampered economic growth, staggering corruption, allegations of vote-rigging, bomb attacks are just few to mention. But things got much worse when two internal wars, first in Abkhazia<\/a> and then in South Ossetia<\/a>, broke up in early 1990s. Both Georgian territories, supported and, perhaps, instigated by neighboring Russia were lost to Georgia and became de facto<\/em> independent, with its budgets full of “Moscow money” and its citizens\u00a0traveling on the passports of the Russian Federation. The famous resorts of Sukhumi<\/a> and Gagra<\/a>\u00a0even today are a no man’s land, its buildings and streets scarred by the war and its population (hundreds of thousands) refuged either to Georgia or to Russia. Together\u00a0with Nagorny-Kharabakh<\/a>,\u00a0wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia constituted the only military conflicts evoked by the collapse of Soviet Union.<\/p>\n For a decade after the Abkhazia disaster, Georgia oscillated between periods of relative peace and security and terrible crime waves, gang warfare, kidnappings, infrastructure collapse and rampant corruption. Shevarnadze staved off a total collapse into anarchy, but by the early 21st century Georgians had lost all faith in him.\u00a0In 2003, Shevardnadze (who won re-election in 2000) was deposed by the peaceful\u00a0Rose Revolution<\/a>\u00a0led by Mikheil Saakashvili<\/a>, Zurab Zhvania<\/a> and Nino Burjanadze<\/a>, former members and leaders of Shevardnadze’s ruling party. A US-educated lawyer Mikheil Saakashvili was elected as President of Georgia in 2004. The 36-year-old Saakashvili appointed a team of young, energetic, outward-looking ministers and set about liberalizing the economy, and announced campaigns against the plague of corruption. The Saakashvili government had a strong pro-Western, especially pro-US, foreign policy, with ambitions to join NATO and the EU. Within a short period of time almost the entire notoriously corrupt police force was sacked and replaced with much better paid, better trained officers. Foreign aid and investment in telecoms, electricity, transport and construction improved and electricity shortages ended, however\u00a0such achievements could only result from the use of unilateral executive powers, failing to achieve consent and initiating a trade-off between democracy-building and state-building.<\/p>\n In August 2008 Russia and Georgia engaged in the 2008 South Ossetia war<\/a>,\u00a0leading to the 2008\u20132010 Georgia\u2013Russia crisis<\/a>, which is still very much a reality.\u00a0In October 2012, Saakashvili’s party lost in parliamentary elections and in November 2013, Giorgi Margvelashvili<\/a> won the Georgian presidential election\u00a0with 62.12% of the votes cast. With this, a new constitution<\/a> came into effect which devolved significant power from the President to the Prime Minister.\u00a0Stephen Jones in his book “Georgia: A Political History since Independence” gives a very detailed account of the times from Gamsakhurdia to Saakashvili, but for me, it was a huge revelation to speak with local Georgians who, despite passed time, were still very much living in Saakashvili’s time, demonizing\u00a0or idolizing him. I was told quite a few anecdotes about his rule, some of which were downright scary and personal, and some were quite humorous. They say that\u00a0after\u00a0Saakashvili left power,\u00a0the very next day people didn’t show up for\u00a0work, as they were fed up with his\u00a0idea that every Georgian must possess\u00a0US work ethics, which isn’t necessary a bad thing, but it didn’t go well with a relaxed Caucasian mentality. However, I was also told the stories of hanged, gunned down and vanished, often business people, who shortly prior their death came into conflict with Saakashvili.<\/p>\n Tbilisi.<\/strong><\/p>\n After 6 hours of driving, I was happy to finally check into my hotel<\/a>, located just above Meidan, in the heart of Old Tbilisi. The views were fantastic, as were the service and the room. Home to a quarter of Georgian population (1.5 million), Tbilisi<\/a> (or as it is also commonly called – Tiflis) brims with history and has a dramatic setting on hillsides of either side of the swift, but muddy Mtkvari River<\/a>. Its Old Town is still evocative of an ancient Eurasian crossroads with meandering lanes, old balconied houses, silent mosques, leafy\u00a0squares, graceful\u00a0churches, and countless cafes, shisha-bars and restaurants overlooked by the 17th century-old Narikala Fortress.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n However, Tbilisi is also a modern city\u00a0that tries\u00a0to distant itself from the Soviet past, and move forward in the 21st century in style, judging by the new lavish constructions and flagship building projects that sprung up by the river not far from the Old Town. For the next 5 days, beautiful and authentic Tbilisi became my town too.<\/p>\n History of Tbilisi.<\/strong><\/p>\n Evidence of settlement in the area stretches back to the 4th century B.C., but the Georgians like the legend that King\u00a0Vakhtang I Gorgasali<\/a> of Kartli<\/a>\u00a0(r. 447-502) went hunting in this heavily wooded region with a falcon. The king’s falcon caught a pheasant, but both birds fell into a nearby hot spring and died. King Vakhtang was so impressed with the discovery that he decided to build a city on this location, calling it “Tbilisi”, a word\u00a0derived from the Old Georgian\u00a0for\u00a0“warm location”. The name was given to the city because of the area’s numerous sulfuric<\/a> hot springs, which are still heavily exploited, notably for public baths, in the Abanotubani<\/a> district at the foot of Narikala Fortress. This mythical account is very popular, but archaeological evidence shows that Vakhtang revived, or rebuilt parts of the city (such as Abanotubani, or the Metekhi<\/a> palace, where his statue now stands) but did not found it.<\/p>\n King Dachi<\/a> (beginning of the 6th century), the son and successor of Vakhtang Gorgasali, is said to have moved the capital of Kartli\u00a0from Mtskheta<\/a> to Tbilisi to obey the will left by his father. During his reign, Dachi finished the construction of the fortress wall that lined the city’s new boundaries and\u00a0Tbilisi started to grow at a steady pace due to the region’s favorable location, which placed the city along important trade and travel routes between Europe and Asia.\u00a0However, its strategical location had also become a reason for most major regional powers to\u00a0struggle during the next centuries for its control. In the 7th century, the city was conquered by the\u00a0Arab conquerors<\/a>\u00a0who established the Emirate of Tbilisi<\/a>. The following four centuries of\u00a0Arab rule<\/a> brought a certain order to the region and introduced a more formal and modernized judicial system into Georgia, while Tbilisi prospered from the trade with the whole Middle East<\/a>.\u00a0<\/span>The Arab rule heavily influenced the cultural development of the city, as even though few Georgians converted to Islam during this time, Tbilisi became a mainly Muslim city.<\/p>\n In 1122, after the\u00a0battles for Tbilisi<\/a>\u00a0that involved at least 60,000 Georgians and up to 300,000 Turks, the troops of the King of Georgia David the Builder\u00a0stormed Tbilisi. He concluded his victory by moving his residence from\u00a0Kutaisi\u00a0to Tbilisi, making it the capital of a unified Georgian State and thus inaugurating the Georgian Golden Age<\/a>. From 12\u201313th centuries, Tbilisi became a dominant regional power with a thriving economy (well-developed trade and skilled labour, known for its production of weapons, jewelry, leather and silk clothing) and a well-established social system. By the end of the 12th century, the population of Tbilisi had reached 100,000. The city also became an important literary and a cultural center not only for Georgia but for the Eastern Orthodox<\/a> world of the time. During Queen Tamar<\/a>‘s reign, Shota Rustaveli<\/a> worked in Tbilisi while writing his legendary epic poem, The Knight in the Panther’s Skin<\/a><\/i>.<\/p>\n The golden age ended with a vengeance by the Mongols in 1235, followed in turn by the plague in 1366, then by conqueror Timur, who destroyed the city in 1386 and by the Persians who captured it in the 1540s. Tbilisi recovered somewhat under the Persians during the 17th and 18th centuries, and in 1762 it became a capital of an independent eastern Georgia under King Erekle II. Erekle’s protector, Russia, however, withdrew its troops to fight the Turks allowing Agha Mohammad Khan<\/a>\u00a0to inflict Persia’s most devastating assault in 1795. His army killed tens of thousands and burnt Tbilisi to the ground: few buildings today predate 1795 in any substantial form. Russia annexed Georgia in 1800 and re-built Tbilisi laying out wide streets and squares and erecting new buildings, mainly of European style, building few roads and railroads connected Tbilisi to other important cities in Russia and in\u00a0Transcaucasia<\/a>. By the 1850s Tbilisi once again emerged as a major trade and a cultural center, visited by Pushkin, Lermontov, Tolstoy and the Romanov Family<\/a>. Important to mention that by 1899, Tbilisi had 172,000 people, one-third of them were Armenians and a quarter each Georgian and Russian.<\/p>\n During Soviet rule, Tbilisi’s population grew significantly and the city became more industrialized. Stalinist buildings such as the current Parliament of Georgia<\/a> were built on the main avenues, but most ancient neighborhoods retained their character. Many religious buildings were destroyed during anti-religious campaigns, and in their sites came\u00a0new places for culture and entertainment.\u00a0New standardized residential areas (mikrorayen) were built from the 1960s and a Metro system<\/a> was developed to link them all with the old city center. The 1990s were dark years in Tbilisi – literally, with frequent power cuts blacking out the city – as living standards sank and corruption and crime became rife. However, since 2003, Tbilisi has experienced considerably more stability, decreasing crime rates, improving economy, flood of investments and refurbishment and a booming tourist industry. However, bear in mind that prosperity is still barely trickling down to the less advantaged population, so please support local Georgian tour agencies, hotels, vendors, entrepreneurs by buying local services and goods.<\/p>\n In the evening, I was meeting Levan, a friend of a friend who, never having met me, helped\u00a0to plan my trip to Georgia and whose Georgian hospitality shone even through his facebook messages. After a brief shower and one-hour rest, I still had a few free hours to be lured to the winding streets of\u00a0the Old Town <\/strong>with a quest to\u00a0buy a Caucasian carpet or two.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n About 10 m down the very steep hill from the hotel was the large Armenian Cathedral of St. George<\/a>, <\/strong>founded in 1251, although the current structure is mainly 18th century.\u00a0Built in brick on a traditional plan of a partitioned, open cross with a rectangular perimeter, in July 2015 it was still under restoration, due to open in October. Nevertheless, the most important site of the cathedral, the tomb of the King Erakle II’s fame Armenian court-poet Sayat Nova<\/a>, killed here during the Persian invasion of 1795, is just outside the main door.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Following the main road down, I passed by a few souvenir shops\u00a0and hotels and in 2 mins appeared at the small yet very much engaged\u00a0Meidan. <\/strong>Formerly, the setting of Tbilisi’s bustling bazaar, it is a very busy, traffic-infested junction bringing both, people and cars from one bank of Mktvari River to another. It is also a perfect place to grab a lunch or dinner, as I did at the perpetually busy two-storied Machakhela restaurant<\/a>, enjoy the galleries, live music, drinks and shisha at one of the places\u00a0on Jan Chardin,\u00a0Bambis\u00a0Rigi or Erakle II Streets, buy yourself a day-tour at one of the multiple travel agencies (I used travel agency “Holidays”, located next to the Chateau Mukhrani Wine shop and bar), chat with fellow-travelers or simply enjoy its hustle and bustle.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Across the river from Meidan Square, perched on the elevated cliff is the Historic Neighborhood of Metekhi<\/a>,<\/strong> with its eponymous Metekhi Church of Assumption and the equestrian statue of King Vakhtang I Gorgaslan. Many legends are associated with this elevated bank of the river. According to one, King\u00a0Vakhtang I Gorgasali<\/a>\u00a0(447-502) erected here a church and a fort which served as a king\u2019s residence; hence its\u00a0name “Metekhi”, dating back to the 12th century, means “the area around the palace”. They also say that it was a site where the 5th-century martyr lady Saint Shushanik<\/a>,\u00a0tortured by her husband in 475 for refusing to convert to Zoroastrianism, was buried. However, none of the mentioned above structures have survived the Mongol invasion of 1235. \u00a0Legend has it also that the Metekhi cliff was a site of the martyrdom of Habo<\/a> (8th century), Tbilisi\u2019s patron saint and a small church in his honor is now under construction at the foot of the cliff. The extant Metekhi Church of Assumption, resting upon the top of the hill, was built by the Georgian king St.\u00a0Demetrius II<\/a> circa 1278\u20131284 and is somewhat an unusual example of domed Georgian Orthodox church. King Rostom<\/a> (r. 1633-1658) fortified the area around the church with a strong citadel garrisoned by some 3,000 soldiers. Under the Russian rule in 1801, the church lost its religious purpose and was used as a barrack, the citadel was demolished in 1819 and replaced by a new building which functioned as the infamous jail up to the Soviet era, and was closed only in 1938.\u00a0Amid the Great Purges<\/a>, Beria<\/a>\u00a0 intended to destroy the church, but met an opposition by a group of\u00a0Georgian intellectuals led by the painter and art collector Dimitri Shevardnadze<\/a>, who was later executed but the church stood.\u00a0In the late Soviet period the church was used as a theatre until it returned to its original function\u00a0in 1988.\u00a0The statue of King Vakhtang I Gorgaslan by the sculptor Elguja Amashukeli<\/a> was erected in front of the church in 1961.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n While keeping an eye on the antique carpet shops, I continued walking along Kote Abkhazi Street<\/strong>, the main thoroughfare of the Old Town, winding down from Tavisuplepis Moedani (Freedom Square).\u00a0In the middle ages this street was called Shuabazaari, meaning “middle Bazaar”; it divided the city into the upper and the lower parts and\u00a0served as an unofficial centre of trade. You can spend a whole day on this 800 m stretch and never have a need to leave as it is strung with assorted shops and eateries, wine tastings ($5 all you can drink) and hostels, churches and synagogues, street vendors selling cheap but delicious churchkhela<\/a> (try to pronounce it!) and souvenir shops. In the next few days, I will walk up and down this street but never get tired of its alluring authentic vibe.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Almost at the beginning of the Kote Abkhazi Street is Tbilisi’s main synagogue, also\u00a0known as the Great Synagogue<\/a><\/strong>.\u00a0It was founded by Jews from Akhaltsikhe<\/a>, who settled in Tbilisi in the late 19th century,\u00a0and sometimes referred to as “synagogue of the people of Akhaltsikhe”. Adjoining it was another prayer house founded by the Jews of Tskhinvali<\/a>.\u00a0The synagogue was built with bricks, in an eclectic style, between 1895 and 1903 and surmounted by a dome and a lantern. The two-story structure measures 24.5 m (length) x 15 m (width) x 14 m (height) and contains two prayer halls.\u00a0The upper hall, the bigger of the two, is used for services on Sabbath and festivals and has a gallery for women. Its\u00a0walls and the ceiling were painted in the 1940s with geometric and vegetable motifs, biblical verses and prayers. The smaller lower prayer hall is used for daily services and doesn’t have a women’s section. There is a Holy Ark \u2013 heikhal in each prayer hall with Torah cases covered with a small garment (kabah) which resembles a Torah mantle.\u00a0The Torah staves on top of the cases are adorned by kerchiefs donated by women of the local community. The scrolls are crowned by pairs of engraved and soldered silver and wood carved Torah finials (rimonim),\u00a0made in Tbilisi, and reflecting an earlier artistic tradition.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Further up the street stands the large, disused, cracked in the middle Armenian Norashen Church<\/a>.\u00a0<\/strong>Norashen Holy Mother of God Church\u00a0was founded by Sadat in 1467 and renovated in 1650\u00a0by\u00a0Khoja Nazar, when the cupola was created by the master Petros (the church was repeatedly restored in 1795, 1808 and 1875). The interior of the church was decorated with frescoes by Ovnatan Ovnatanian, who was a court-artist of Erekle II. In the western part of the church there is an untouched tombstone on the grave of the merchant and patron of art Tamamshev and his wife. The names of this branchy merchant’s clan are often met in Tbilisi toponymy (place-name study). In Soviet times Norashen church was converted into a library and nowadays it\u00a0remains closed.\u00a0Recently the church has been the subject of dispute between Armenians and the Georgian Orthodox Church which has sought to convert it into a Georgian Church\u00a0– it\u00a0was\u00a0enclosed with a concrete fence, the Armenian inscriptions on tombstones were defaced, and Georgian tombstones were brought in.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Right next door, sharing the same courtyard, is a smaller Jvaris Mama Church<\/strong> <\/a>sitting on the site of a 5th-century church which was built by King Vakhtang I Gorgasali but destroyed by Mongols. Named after the Georgian church in Jerusalem, the current structure dates from the 16th century (renewed in 1825) and its interior is almost completely covered in recently restored frescoes in striking reds, golds and blues. Its lack of visitors brought an atmosphere of piety and calmness. In the church’s hall, I met a woman who I thought was a local\u00a0attendant since she knew lots of things about the church and spoke with me for 15-20 minutes about its history and frescoes. In the end, she asked me for money to pay for her godson’s cancer treatment. Not for a second I doubted her story, and as a recent cancer-survivor myself, I asked her to say a prayer for all of those who succumbed to it. Church’s leafy and cozy courtyard was a perfect place to relax before jumping back onto the busy street.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Slowly, I reached the end of the Kote Abkhazi street, where old Tbilisi meets modern Tbilisi -a photogenic\u00a0Tavisuplebis Moedani<\/a> (or Freedom Square)<\/strong>, where Georgia’s last Lenin statue, toppled in 1991, used to stand in place of the golden St. George spearing his dragon.\u00a0The square was originally named after Ivan Paskevich<\/a>, the Count of Erivan, a Ukrainian general of the Russian Imperial Army, who earned his title in honor of his conquest of Erivan (present-day Yerevan) for the Russian Empire. Under the Soviet Union, the square was renamed, first “Beria Square”, and then “Lenin Square”.\u00a0Freedom Square was the site of the 1907 Tiflis bank robbery<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0of various mass demonstrations including those for Georgia’s independence and\u00a0the Rose Revolution. In 2005 from here,\u00a0U.S. President George W. Bush and Georgian President Mikheil Saakashvili\u00a0addressed a crowd of around 100,000 people in celebration of the 60th anniversary marking the end of WWII. During this event, Georgian-Armenian Vladimir Arutyunian<\/a> threw a live grenade at President Bush in an unsuccessful attempt to assassinate him. It is still a pretty dangerous place taking into account mad traffic, so, I made sure to use one of the pedestrian underpasses to cross it. The Square is adorned with beautiful buildings of\u00a0Tbilisi City Hall<\/a>,\u00a0the former headquarters of\u00a0Bank of Georgia<\/a>\u00a0and the Marriott\u00a0hotel and serves as the beginning of Tbilisi’s main artery – Rustaveli Avenue.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n In the evening, Levan with\u00a0his friend Davit picked me up near Meidan and together we caught\u00a0a Funicular to the top of Mount Mtatsminda. There, at the edge of the Mtatsminda park<\/a><\/strong>, Tbilisi offered its most splendid views – the falling asleep city unwrapped before our eyes like a Caucasian carpet with its myriad of lights and patterns. At the top, we settled at a very fashionable but cozy Lounge bar<\/a> of the Funicular restaurant where Levan ordered us a little wine tasting of his favorite, and I presume the best Georgian wines and delicious seasonal fruits that this country grows – watermelons, peaches, grapes, melons and raspberries. We were enjoying the wonderful mountainously fresh evening outdoors but don’t forget to check out the inside the Lounge, which is decorated with the\u00a0historic fresco created by Koka Ignatov<\/a> in the 1960s, entitled “Tribute to Pirosmani”, that has been carefully restored to its original condition.\u00a0I had a fantastic first day in Tbilisi and\u00a0instead of a perfect carpet, I found a perfect city and a new friend.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The very next day I spent walking around Tbilisi and visiting many of its tourist sights, except for the museums (which are fantastic, but I simply didn’t have time). But first of all, I finally found my preferred carpet shop – Caucasian Carpets Gallery<\/a> <\/strong>on 8\/10 Erekle II street, near Sioni Church (for information call: +995 577 75 30 69 or email:gallerycarpets@yahoo.com). Manana Arkania, the owner, carefully learnt my carpet “requirements”\u00a0– size, color and fabric – before showing me at least a few dozen of full carpets and kilims. While in Caucasus, you will notice that red, blue, green and yellow\u00a0are the\u00a0happy colors and many carpets have very geometric\u00a0patterns and designs, however, I was looking for something neutral to\u00a0go well with the furniture and paintings in my New York City apartment. Instead of one, I obviously got two carpets (without a bargain as I thought they were very reasonably priced) and together with the one that I purchased in Azerbaijan, I just had enough to cover the entire floor in my apartment and give somebody\u00a0as a gift too! Many\u00a0carpets at Caucasian Carpets Gallery\u00a0are antique (which means they are handmade) but don’t try to get the exact\u00a0year of their manufacturing or the region; however, Manana’s and her employees have enough experience and knowledge to tell with a certain degree of confidence many facts about the carpets. While some of them have an easily identifiable ornaments\u00a0belonging to a specific carpet-making region, many – don’t. The same applies to the exact year of production. Manana told me that during tough 1990s old people\u00a0would bring and sell their inherited carpets, antique furniture, jewelry without giving much details about when and where they acquired those items, hence each carpet has its own story to tell.<\/p>\n So, if you are buying a carpet in Georgia and\u00a0taking it outside the country, there are several things you need to know:<\/p>\n With\u00a0clean\u00a0conscious and “task accomplished” attitude, I could finally relax and\u00a0leisurely enjoy my time in Georgia. I came up with a 1,500 m long Narikala Tourist Route that runs from the Old town to the foot of the Mother Georgia monument on top of Narikala hill. Let’s walk it together as it offers stunning views at every turn.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The very first place I went to were the famous Sulphur baths<\/strong> in\u00a0Abanotubani. They are easy to find on the map (Abano Street), in person (look for the hive-like domes) and by the trail of strong sulphuric egg-like smell they release. Both, the founding of the city\u00a0and its name, originated in this very place (see the legend of Tbilisi above), however, some archaeological evidence has found Roman-style baths in the city that date as far back to the 1st century A.D. Today\u2019s hub of thermal baths is based on the Persian tradition and\u00a0became a draw of the city at the height of the Silk Road, when there were 63 baths back in the day. During the period of the Russian Empire, there were 10 baths and they were widely popular and visited by famous bathers like A.Pushkin and A.Dumas<\/a>. The hot springs along the river attracted both the healthy and the infirm. “I must not omit to mention that the baths of the city cannot be surpassed even by those of Constantinople”, write a visitor in 1840. “They have also the additional recommendation of being remarkably clean and well kept”. Today there are only five baths, most of them are subterranean, with delicate cupolas rising at ground level. Some of baths are public – simple and inexpensive, where you share the washing areas and the pools with everyone of the same sex and some have private bath-suites consisting of 3 or more rooms and accommodating up to 10 people. You can also hire a masseuse or order a body scrub for just a few extra lari. And the benefits of the sulphur baths are plentiful – it gives\u00a0you perfect skin, rid you of skin diseases, calm nervous system, solve insomnia problems, help with arthritis, etc. The most beautiful, adorned in turquoise, royal blue tiles and mosaic is\u00a0the Orbeliani Bath<\/a>, that looks more like a mosque than a bathhouse. Unfortunately, it was under renovation when I visited it. However, I took a tour of the private rooms at The Royal Bath House<\/a> (just ask an attendant). There are also “Sulphur Baths”, “Bakhmaro Baths” and “Bathhouse #5” so, I am sure you will find the one to suit your taste and budget.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The excavation work in the area that started in 2011-2012, enabled public access to the exceptional sites of Old Tbilisi which had been restricted to visitors since the mid-20th century. As the result, the historical Tsavkisistkskali river-bed was opened and cleaned from earth making old bath houses, hidden portions of the so-called “multicolored bathhouse”, a blind arcade leading to bathhouses, fragments of an old bridge and other elements visible. A historical water-supply and reservoir system that served the city were\u00a0uncovered in the depth of the gorge which culminates with a beautiful waterfall. The tourists paths, bridges and resting place along this original river bed is an excellent quiet alcove to rest. P.S. In order to reach Dzveli Tbilisi Sulphur waterfall<\/strong>, walk along the left back of the river bed till the end and if you are lucky, you will be the only person there.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Up the hill and across the street from the Sulphur baths is Tbilisi’s red-brick Jumah Mosque<\/strong>, the only one that survived Beria’s purges in 1930s. It was built in 1895 and, unusually, Shia and Sunni Muslims pray together here. Interior is prettily frescoed and visitors are welcome to enter, after removing their shoes and covering their heads (for women). Please do not confuse the Orbeliani Bath with a Jumah mosque.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n I simply followed the Botanikuru street up to the hill toward the Narikala Fortress and it was, perhaps, my favorite city walk. There were old and renovated houses, beautifully decorated in-and-out and just the sad carcasses of somebody’s long ago well-beloved residencies, but all of them were living and breathing in a unique and authentic way. In my blog about Azerbaijan, I mentioned that I was very surprised to find Icheri Sheher, the old Baku town, looking as new as if it was fixed\u00a0just a few years ago, but in fact, it was rebuilt in 2010-2012. Tbilisi was original, pure, old time Georgian! And so were its people who stopped me on every corner and\u00a0chatted\u00a0in Russian\u00a0as if we were the best of friends, and not in an annoying but in affectionate grand-fatherly manner, suggesting me some restaurants to visit for lunch or inviting for a glass of Georgian tea.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n At the top of the street, there is an entrance to the expansive 300 year old Botanical Gardens<\/a><\/strong>, a place of easy wander and extensive waterfall-dotted gardens. It occupies\u00a0the area of 161 hectares and possesses a collection of over 4,500 taxonomic groups.\u00a0First described, in 1671, by the French traveler Jean Chardin<\/a> as royal gardens, they might have been founded at least in 1625 and were variably referred to as “fortress gardens” or “Seidabad gardens” later in history.\u00a0Pillaged in the Persian invasion of 1795, the garden was revived in the early 19th century and officially established as the Tiflis Botanical Garden in 1845.\u00a0Between 1896 and 1958 it\u00a0was expanded by acquiring the\u00a0territory around the former Muslim cemetery. Several graves have survived till today, including that of the prominent Azerbaijani writer Mirza Fatali Akhundov<\/a> (1812-1878).<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n But as much as I would liked to visit the Gardens, I was attracted by the views opening on the other side of the path – that are of the\u00a0city\u00a0from the top of the hill. I held Tbilisi on the palm of my hand.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Here I\u00a0reached the Narikala Fortress<\/strong><\/a>, also called the Mother Fortress of Tbilisi. It\u00a0was established in the 4th century, around the period when the city itself was founded and you can still see the oldest remains of the original fortress (tower and the north-east part). It was then known as Shuris-tsikhe (Invidious Fort); the name “Narikala” is said to derive either from a Persian or Mongol word “Narin Qala” meaning “little fortress”. It was considerably expanded by the Umayyads<\/a>\u00a0during the 7th and 8th centuries, when the Arabs built the Emir\u2019s palace within its walls. King David The Builder further extended the fortress in the 11th century, however most of the fort’s existing fortifications date from the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1827 it was damaged by an earthquake and was not resorted till modern time. According to the Tbilisi Plan of 1800, the Narikala Fortress had two underground tunnels connecting the citadel to the Mtkvari River and Tsavkisi Water, it also hosted\u00a0an observatory, however, only a solar clock was found so far. Parts of the fort still stand and serve as a most recognizable Tbilisi’s landmark,\u00a0while others vanished in the jungle of the Botanic Gardens below.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n In the 1960s, during the archeological work, St. Nicholas church<\/strong> was discovered inside the fortress walls. It was built in the 13th century by Demetrius II<\/a>\u00a0and represented a construction of excellent curved stone with blue glazed tiled-roof, frescoes and inscriptions. Archeologists also found a part of stone iconostasis that dates back to the 5th-6th centuries implying that perhaps, there was even an older church in its place.\u00a0Destroyed in a fire long ago, St. Nicholas church was restored in 1996-1997 in a\u00a0“prescribed cross” style, having doors on three sides.\u00a0The internal part of the church is decorated with the frescos showing scenes both from the Bible and history of Georgia.<\/p>\n <\/a>To the east of the church, there are the\u00a0remains of a big structure called Emir’s\u00a0Palace and a lot of interesting things such as water clay pipes, reservoir, different types of pottery, royal vessels, coins, bath and other administrative structures. It is hard not to notice, but Narikala also offers some of the best panoramas of the city and I guess the number of churches in sight, 4-5 at the time, wouldn’t fail to remind you that after all, Georgia is the second oldest Christian country in the world. Well, take a moment or two and enjoy the views!<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n I continued to follow a path west to the Statue of Mother Georgia – Kartlis Deda<\/strong><\/a>. Erected in 1958, this 20-m tall aluminium woman symbolizes the Georgian character – it holds a sword in one hand and a cup of wine in the other – warmly welcoming guests and passionately fighting off her enemies. Past Kartlis Deda are the ruins of the Shahtakhti (Shah’s Throne) fortress<\/strong> which housed an Arab observatory. Interestingly, there were a few plaques here and there, claiming the land to be a property of the Greek government. I wonder?!<\/p>\n\n
\n