{"id":3606,"date":"2016-02-24T11:10:10","date_gmt":"2016-02-24T16:10:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/svetanyc.com\/?p=3606"},"modified":"2017-10-07T09:45:42","modified_gmt":"2017-10-07T13:45:42","slug":"prague","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/192.168.2.119:1984\/svetanyc\/2016\/02\/prague\/","title":{"rendered":"Prague, Czech Republic. February 2016"},"content":{"rendered":"
“Whoever wants to live in Central Europe must never sober up.”\u00a0<\/em>Writer Bohumil Hrabal<\/em><\/p>\n “Beer is a sign of national identity, a medium of camaraderie, a gift from heaven and a character from a story.” <\/em>Craig Cravens<\/em><\/p>\n The slim spires of Gothic architecture are the dominant feature of the Prague<\/a>‘s centuries-old skyline, the city known as “Hundred-Spired Prague”, (Stovezata Praha<\/em>). And it was there I decided to spend a few days right after my 36th birthday, in February 2016. Beer, Bohemian glass<\/a> and beautiful architecture are perhaps the first things that come to my mind when I think of Prague and Czech Republic in general. It was the first foreign country my mom visited in 1989 and back then, it seemed to her, as a Soviet citizen, to be the pinnacle of wealth and abundance. Of course, it felt different to me. One thing that caught me off guard was just how similar Belarusian, my mother-tongue, was to Czech language.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n First of all, let’s get one thing straight – Czech republic<\/a> is not located in Eastern Europe. Czechs never tire of pointing out that Prague lies to the west of Vienna and it is closer to Dublin than Moscow. It is indeed, the “Heart of Europe”! It is also the birthplace of Antonin Dvorak<\/a>, Franz Kafka<\/a>, the religious reformer Jan Hus<\/a>, and the father of modern psycho-analysis Sigmund Freud<\/a>.<\/p>\n Nearly three hundred castles and chateaux are scattered throughout the Czech lands and no other city possesses such a wealth of unspoiled historical structures from so many different periods. Countless European cities have been bombed and burnt and torn down and rebuilt again that their physical history survives in stray fragments or not at all. But Prague is the time’s showcase, exhibiting beautiful, eclectic bits from each successive era. Here, Gothic towers neighbor 11th-century courtyards, which lead to Baroque and Renaissance houses with 20th-century bullets embedded in their walls. Art Nouveau hotels abut formerly socialist department stores that now sell French perfume and American sneakers. Through a combination of luck, circumstance, and obstinance, Prague has stockpiled ten centuries of history.<\/p>\n Despite the manicured beauty of the city, I found its citizens to be depressed, indifferent or cynical. Czech national character was influenced by the small size and uncertain existence of the nation – a sense of national pride in an almost 300-year history of Hussitism<\/a> and an acute sense of humiliation in another 300 years of subjugation. As a result, a pattern seemed to have developed: in times of assured statehood the Czech people strove for the ideals of humanity; in times of peril, they lowered their heads to save the national body. Pushing this argument even further, Chalupny, a Czech sociologist, suggested that the epoch of degradation created a sense of inferiority in the Czechs which is often repugnantly manifested as contemptuous rudeness to those beneath them and a fawning servility to those above them.<\/p>\n Literature.<\/strong><\/p>\n History.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n The region was settled as early as the\u00a0Paleolithic\u00a0age. Around the 5th-4th centuries BC, the earliest inhabitants in the region of today’s Czech Republic were Celtic tribes<\/a> known to the Romans as Boii, hence the word “Bohemia<\/a>.” Around the area where present-day Prague stands, the 2nd century map of\u00a0Ptolemaios<\/a>\u00a0mentioned a Germanic city called\u00a0Casurgis.<\/i>\u00a0The first Slavs settled here in the 5th-6th centuries, having migrated from the northeast. The homeland of the ancient Slavs was present-day Ukraine and Belarus, however between the 4th and the 6th centuries, tribes of nomadic Huns invaded from the east pushing the Slavs down into the central and southeastern parts of Europe.<\/p>\n According to the\u00a0Chronicle of Fredegar<\/a>, some of the Slavs living on what is now Czech territory, mainly in southern Moravia, were exposed for a number of years to violence and marauding raids from the Avars, whose empire stretched across the territory of present-day Hungary. In 623, the Slavic tribes, united by the Frankish merchant Samo<\/a>, revolted against the oppression. “So it happened that he self-founded the first Slavic empire. He married then twelve Slavic women, had with them twenty-two sons and fifteen daughters and happily ruled for 35 years. All other fights, which under his leadership Slavs fought with the Avars, were victorious,” the Frankish chronicler Reich (called Fredegar) wrote about Samo in the oldest extant written report by the Slavs in the Czech lands.<\/p>\n Later Samo and the Slavs came into conflict with the Frankish empire whose ruler Dagobert I wanted to extend his rule to the east, but Dagobert was defeated in the memorable battle of Wogastisburg in 631. After Samo’s death, his empire seems to have disappeared. Since it was created to unite Slavs to defend against Avars and Franks and to facilitate Slavic plundering expeditions against their neighbors, once the danger had passed, the united empire disintegrated. However, these remnants continued their further development and became the core foundation for the future Great Moravian Empire<\/a>, which lasted until 907 and included Bohemia, Moravia, and parts of today’s Slovakia, Poland, Germany and Hungary.<\/p>\n In 863, the Great Moravian leader Rostislav<\/a> (846-869) decided his denizens required the earthly and otherworldly benefit of Christianity. Fearing Germanic political expansion and moreover wanting the Gospel to be preached in Slavic rather than Latin, Rostislav asked the Byzantine Emperor Michael III (836-867) for religious and political aid, writing to him, “Though our people have rejected paganism and observe Christian law, we do not have a teacher who can explain to us in our language”. Emperor responded by dispatching two missionaries, the brothers Cyril and Methodius<\/a>, to Moravia, who officially brought Christianity to the Slavs. Before their departure, Cyril, a linguist, philosopher, and diplomat, devised a written alphabet for the Slavic language called “Glagolitic” (during this early period, all Slavic languages were nearly identical). The alphabet was based on the Slavic dialect spoken in their hometown on the Balkan peninsula and was composed of a mixture of Greek and other eastern letters. Cyril’s followers created the simpler Cyrillic alphabet from Glagolitic, which is still used by Russia, Bulgaria, Serbia, Ukraine and Belarus.<\/p>\n Around 907 Germans and Hungarians destroyed the Great Moravian Empire. Bohemia became the seat of the Czech lands, and in 950 the Bohemian Kingdom became a fief of the Holy Roman Empire. Prince Borivoj<\/a> presided over the new Czech state. He is the first historically documented member of the Premyslid Dynasty<\/a>, which lasted from 870 to 1306. Borivoj was baptized by Methodius and moved his seat to Prague around 885. According to legend, Borivoj’s decision to be baptized was fairly pragmatic. Once on a visit to a Moravian prince, he was forced to sit beneath the dinner table and dine with other pagan guests since only Christians could sit at the table. When Methodius explained to Borivoj the manifold advantages and opportunities offered by Christianity, he had himself immediately baptized and returned to Bohemia with priests of the Slavic rite.<\/p>\n The next most renowned ruler of Bohemia is another Premyslid by the name of Prince Vaclav<\/a>, or Wenceslas (in English), who was eventually canonized for his lifelong devotion to the church. Wenceslas was murdered by his brother and successor Boleslav I<\/a> at a mass in 935 and was beatified as the patron Saint of the Czech lands. Wenceslas was not a warrior, and it was eventually his continual appeasement of the Germans that led his brother to take his life. Today his is a controversial figure, but most Czechs consider him a symbol of the essential “goodness” of the Czechs. His statue sits at the top of Wenceslas Square in Prague.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n During the rule of the Premyslid dynasty, Prague became a major commercial area along Central Europe’s trade routes. In the 12th century, two fortified castles were built at Vysehrad and Hradcany, and a wooden plank bridge stood near where the stone Karlov (Charles) Bridge spans the Vltava today. Vaclavske namesti (Wenceslas Square) was a horse market, and the city’s 3,500 residents rarely lived to the age of 45. In 1234, Stare Mesto (Old Town), the first of Prague’s historic five towns was founded. Encouraged by Bohemia’s rulers, who guaranteed German civic rights to western settlers, Germans founded entire towns around Prague, including Mala Strana (Lesser Quarter) in 1257. Important to mention that the influx of German monks and priests into Bohemia proceeded apace and already by 1100, the Slavic Church officially ceased to exist, religiously and politically the Czechs allied themselves with Rome, and Latin replaced Slavic as the language of both liturgy and literature.<\/p>\n The Premyslid dynasty reached its zenith under Otakar II<\/a>\u00a0(1253-1278) when military conquests stretched Bohemia all the way to the Adriatic. In 1278, however, Rudolf of Habsburg<\/a> killed Otakar. Bohemia and Moravia were plundered and occupied for 5 years, and all the southern territories were lost. Prague endured years of foreign occupation and invasion. Things eventually calmed down, and through various marriages and alliances, the Czech kingdom became an administratively sovereign state within the Holy Roman Empire.\u00a0The Premyslid dynasty of the Czechs ended with the 1306 death of teenage Vaclav III, who had no heirs. After much debate, the throne was offered to John of Luxemborg, husband of Vaclav III’s younger sister, a foreigner who knew little of Bohemia. It was John’s firstborn son who left the most lasting marks on Prague.<\/p>\n The zenith of Bohemia’s medieval glory came under Karl IV (Charles IV<\/a>), who was crowned King of the Czech lands in 1346, when his father died fighting in France, and is known as otec vlasti\u00a0<\/em>or the “Father of the Homeland”. He spoke and wrote in Czech, Latin, German, French, and Italian and is the only Czech to ever be elected Holy Roman Emperor. When Charles came to Prague, the castle was in ruins; he set about reconstructing the castle along with the entire city, summoning Europe’s foremost architects and transforming Prague into one of Medieval Europe’s preeminent cultural and commercial centers. He almost single-handedly ushered in Prague’s first golden age, making it the third-largest city in Europe (after Rome and Constantinople). He commissioned St. Vitus Cathedral<\/a>\u00a0construction at Prague Castle, as well as a bridge that would eventually bear his name. It was also King Charles who founded in 1348 the first university in Central Europe, Charles University, which was meant to follow the grand examples of the universities in Paris and Bologna.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n While Charles IV was the most heralded of the Bohemian kings, the short reign of his son Vaclav IV was marked by social upheaval, a devastating plague, and the advent of turbulent religious dissent. One hundred years before Martin Luther nailed his 95 theses to the church door in Wittenburg, the Czech\u00a0Jan Hus,<\/a>\u00a0a theologian and\u00a0rector\u00a0at the Charles University, preached in Prague (1369-1415) and led a proto-Protestant movement agitating for, among other things, church services conducted in Czech rather than Latin, communion in both kinds (with bread and wine) for lay persons, and a cessation of the selling of indulgences. Hus began preaching in the Bethlehem Church in Czech in 1402 and garnered a large following. Naturally, the ruling Catholics voiced their disapproval of Hus, and when he refused to obey, he was excommunicated. Hus was then summoned to Constance and promised safe conduct, but upon arrival, he was remanded into custody. When he refused to recant his teachings, Hus was accused of heresy and burned at the stake on July 6, 1415. Understandably, the Czechs were livid, the nobles proclaimed themselves Hussites, and the university publicly declared itself for communion in both kinds. The chalice became the symbol of the Hussite movement. Between 1416 and 1419 papal loyalists were expelled from churches in Prague and elsewhere and replaced by Hussites; church lands were seized and monasteries suppressed. This was the beginning of the Hussite revolution.<\/p>\n In response, the Catholic Habsburgs attacked in 1420, but the Hussites repulsed attack after attack by their better-armed foes, led by the one-eyed warrior Jan Zizka<\/a> (1360-1424). Zizka made his army into the most feared in Europe. Simply the sound of his chanting soldiers was enough to strike terror into the opposing forces. Today, the statue of Jan Zizka on horseback, the largest equestrian statue in the world, sits atop Vitkov hill in Prague. Zizka began his military carrier blind on one eye, and an arrow eventually blinded the other. He fought his final battles totally blind and died of the plague in 1424 on the eve of a planned conquest of Moravia and Silesia. Procopius<\/a> took his place and defeated the German in two great battles in 1427.<\/p>\n George of Podebrady<\/a> was the last Czech kind, and his line was succeeded by the Belarusian-Polish Jagiellonian Dynasty<\/a>. Then in 1526 the rule of the Czech lands passed to Ferdinand I of Habsburg<\/a>, which began nearly four centuries of Habsburg rule over Bohemia, Moravia and Slovakia. Ferdinand undertook a process of centralization in his lands and tried to strike a balance between Protestants and Catholics. Habsburg Emperor Rudolf II<\/a>\u00a0(1552-1612) ascended to the throne in 1576 but uncharacteristically for a Hubsburg chose to live in Prague rather than Vienna. This led to what became Prague’s second golden age. Rudolf invited the great astronomers Johannes Kepler<\/a> and Tycho Brahe<\/a> to Prague and endowed the city’s museums with some of Europe’s finest art. The Rudolphinum, which was recently restored and houses the Czech Philharmonic, pays tribute to Rudolf’s opulence.<\/p>\n Rudolf was relatively tolerant to the city’s Jews, even hiring for a time the head of the Jewish community, Mordechai Maisel, to manage his financial affairs. Many of the splendors of Prague Jewish quarter, Josefov, were built during this time. Rudolf brought many benefits to Prague but ultimately failed to resolve the ever-present split between Catholics and Protestants, setting the stage for the coming Thirty Years’ War<\/a> in Europe, a conflagration that eventually torched the entire continent and had no peer in terms of destruction until the World Wars of the 20th century.\u00a0Prague has the dubious distinction as being the place where the war started. Conflicts between the Catholic Habsburgs and Bohemia’s ever-present Protestant nobility came to a head on May 23, 1618, when two Catholic governors were thrown out of the windows of Prague Castle, in the Second Defenestration.<\/p>\n Finally, on November 8, 1620, the Czechs were defeated at the battle of Bila Hora (White Mountain), the most devastating event in modern Czech history. The Habsburg Emperor Ferdinand quickly took revenge. He entered Prague and publicly executed 27 Czech nobles on the Old Town Square (27 crosses were installed on the ground of the square to commemorate this execution). The president of Charles University had his tongue cut out and nailed to the block before he was beheaded. The heads of 12 executed men were mounted on the tower of Charles Bridge for 10 years. Then the purges began. The indigenous Protestant nobility and intelligentsia were destroyed. Everyone either fled the country or converted to Catholicism, which became the only religion permitted in the kingdom. Bohemia’s population was reduced by half, its economy was in ruins, and German, rather than Czech, was made the official language of state. Czech was reduced to the language of cooks, peasants, and the countryside, while the Hubsburgs went on to rule over the Czech lands for the next 300 years.<\/p>\n In the late 18th century, a nationalistic movement swept across Europe, initiated primarily by a German philosopher, Johan Gottfried von Herder (1744-1803). Herder hypothesized that a nation was not simply a random group of people brought together by chance and ruled over by a leader. A nation was an ethnically distinct group, and each nation possessed its own specific characteristics. Naturally, this idea appealed greatly to the Czechs who were still under Habsburg rule and compelled to conduct their affairs in German. At the end of the 18th century, the Czechs began developing their own form of nationalism. In the 19th century, the Industrial Revolution drew Czechs from the countryside into Prague, where a Czech National Revival began. Some sought the salvation of the nation in the revitalization of the Czech language; others sought it in a revival of Hussitism and linked the people’s well-being to the spiritual demands of Christianity and its standards of morality; still others sought to capture in a romanticized poetic way the unique qualities of Slavdom.<\/p>\n As the economy grew, Prague’s Czech population increased in number and power, eventually overtaking the Germans by around midcentury. In 1866, the Czech people threw open the doors to the gilded symbol of their revival, the neo-Renaissance National Theater (Narodni divadlo), with the bold proclamation “Narod Sebe”<\/em> (“The nation for itself”) inscribed over the proscenium. Then, in 1890, at the top of Wenceslas Square, the massive National Museum Building (Narodni muzeum) opened, packed with exhibits celebrating the rich history and culture of the Czech people.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n During the National Revival, the Czechs were still under the Austrian Monarchy, and so they began agitating for more autonomy from Vienna. When WWI erupted in 1914, after the assassination of Archduke Ferdinand and his wife Sophie in Sarajevo, Czechs were in no way eager to fight for their Austrian overseers, although an estimated 1.4\u00a0million Czech soldiers fought in World War I, of whom some 150,000 died. When called up for service, many defected in droves and even formed a coordinated fighting force in Russia comprising of 90,000 volunteers, which became known as the Czechoslovak Legion<\/a>. When the empire collapsed at the end of the war, the Czechoslovak republic was proclaimed in Prague on October 28, 1918, and on November 14, the National Assembly elected Tomas Masaryk<\/a>\u00a0(in absentia) the Republic’s first president.<\/p>\n Before the war, Masaryk was a famous public intellectual, philosopher, and proto-feminist (he took the last name of his American wife, Charlotte Garrigue, as his middle name). He taught philosophy at Charles University, and during the war fled first to Rome, then to Paris, where he, together with Edvard Benes<\/a> (who succeeded Masaryk as president), founded the Czechoslovak National Council and then a provisional government in 1918.\u00a0Viewed in retrospect, the audacity of this duo as it set out in the spring of 1915 to achieve an independent Czechoslovakia as manifest. There was no home front support. In Europe and America little was known about the Czech lands, and nothing at all of Slovakia. Of course, some readers of Shakespeare “knew” that according to “A Winter’s Tale”<\/em>, Bohemia was on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea; lovers of music enjoyed the works of Smetana and Dvorak; and, most importantly of all, Prague ham was internationally popular. In the configuration of world politics, where expediency always gets more attention than justice, none of the Allied powers even considered dissolving the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Despite all odds, after prodigious work in Europe and America, Masaryk finally convinced the US, France and Britain of the workability of a united Czecho-Slovak State as a counterbalance to German and Austrian hegemony in Central Europe. The Pittsburg Agreement was signed in May of 1918, supporting the foundation of a united Czech and Slovak state. Finally on October 28, the new Czechoslovak Republic was declared with Prague as its capital, incorporating the lands of Bohemia, Moravia and Silesia and parts of the\u00a0Kingdom of Hungary<\/a>\u00a0(Slovakia and the\u00a0Carpathian Ruthenia) with significant German, Hungarian, Polish\u00a0and Ruthenian\u00a0speaking minorities.<\/p>\n Between the world wars (1918-1938), Czechoslovakia was an island of democracy, prosperity and freedom in Central Europe surrounded by authoritarian and fascist regimes. The\u00a0First Czechoslovak Republic<\/a>\u00a0inherited only 27% of the population of the former Austria-Hungary, but nearly 80% of the industry, which enabled it to successfully compete with Western industrial states.<\/sup>\u00a0In 1929 compared to 1913, the gross domestic product increased by 52%. It was the tenth most industrialized country in the world, comprising of more than 14 million people (with a nationality breakdown, according to the 1930 census, of 5,5 million Czechs, 3,5 million Slovaks and 3,2 million Germans, etc.). During the early years, the leaders of the republic devoted themselves to harmonizing the demands of these various nationalities and at the same time transforming the country in a modern European nation.<\/p>\n With the arrival of the Great Depression, however, industrial reforms lagged due to lack of money and resources, and ethnic conflicts exacerbated. The Slovaks and Ukrainians felt they had not been granted the degree of autonomy they have been promised, and by the middle of the 1930s, a large number of Czechoslovakia’s German-speakers – who were massed mainly along the German and Austrian borders in the so-called Sudetenlands – were claiming discrimination by the Czechs and agitating for secession from Czechoslovakia to link up with Greater Germany. In the 1935 elections, Konrad Henlein<\/a>, the leader of the Sudeten German Party (which he founded in 1933), won 67.4% of all German votes, and the party thereby became the most powerful group in the Czechoslovak parliament. At the behest of Adolf Hitler<\/a>, Henlein made increasingly racial demands on the Czechoslovak government, demanding complete autonomy for the Sudetenlands and that they be placed under Hitler’s direct protection. In May of 1938, his party won 92% of all German votes in Czechoslovakia.<\/p>\n Germany annexed Austria in March of 1938, and all the German political parties in Czechoslovakia, except the Social Democrats, refused to participate in the Czechoslovak government. In April of 1938, Henlein repeated and escalated his demands, and the Czechoslovak government offered yet further concessions. Henlein, however, refused to negotiate and fled to Germany. Hitler officially declared his support for a self-determined Sudetenland on September 12, 1938. When Hitler pressed, Britain and France, anxious to avoid war, urged Benes, then the president of Czechoslovakia, to relent and surrender the Sudetenlands. On September 29, 1938, the dictators of Germany and Italy and the PMs of Britain and France gathered together in Munich to sign the so-called Munich Agreement<\/a>, according to which Czechoslovakia was to surrender to Germany its borderlands. The Czechs were neither invited nor consulted. The British PM Neville Chamberlain defended the decision to give the Czechs to Hitler in an infamous radio address: “How horrible, fantastic, incredible it is that we should be digging trenches and trying on gas-masks here because of a quarrel in a faraway country between people of whom we know nothing.” A little less than a year later, Britain was digging trenches.<\/p>\n The capitulation precipitated on outburst of national indignation. In demonstrations and rallies, the Czechoslovaks demanded the government stand strong and defend the integrity of the state. A new cabinet, under General Jan Syrovy, was installed, and on September 23, a decree of general mobilization was issued. The Czechoslovak army was highly modernized and possessed an excellent system of frontier fortification. The Soviet Union announced its willingness to come to Czechoslovakia’s assistance if the Western powers would join the fray. The West, however, declined, and the President Benes resigned, fled to London, and created a Czechoslovak government in exile. At the time of Munich both voices spoke: the one, to defend Czechoslovakia’s humanistic convictions by military means; the other, to preserve them by passive moral resistance. Of course, the dilemma was never that simple: there were too many unknowns. Benes had grave doubts about the army’s ability to offer meaningful resistance; he believed that resistance was suicidal, and he wanted the nation to live. His opponents saw in capitulation the preservation of the nation but without honor, without dignity, without ideals. What neither side fully realized was that in capitulation, the nation suffered both death and demoralization.<\/p>\n On September 30, 1938, at 17.00, General Syrovy went before the microphone to announce the nation’s capitulation to its people. He said that sometimes it was more difficult to live than to die for one’s country. Millions of people shared his view, unable yet to see that it would be more difficult to vegetate in the ruins of a country that for years had believed in freedom and progress. In 1918, Czechoslovakia gained independence without firing a shot, twenty years later, on October 1, 1938 the nation was conquered without firing a single shot.<\/p>\n In the final analysis, the decision to capitulate was exclusively the responsibility of the Czechoslovak government. Taking into consideration all the aspects of such decision, its immediate as well as its far-ranging consequences, the dilemma is fundamentally reduces to the question of political ethics. Does a nation have a moral obligation to defend its rightful position against violence, even in the most adverse circumstances? Or is it morally justified in attempting to assure its biological survival, to “live to fight another day”, at the cost of even the temporary loss of its moral integrity and fundamental values? Czechoslovak historians have engaged in the Munich controversy ever since the signature of their government appeared on the Munich dictate. Those who try to justify the capitulation point to what the devastating consequences of resistance would have been; those who favor opposition to German aggression find support for their position in the subsequent demoralization of the nation. Other scholars analyze the Munich disaster in the light of the class struggle and see the capitulation as a deliberate act of treason. It is certain that Munich was a catastrophe for Czechoslovakia, which haunts the conscience of its people whenever they country faces similar critical decisions, as it had on two occasions since 1938.<\/p>\n Czechoslovakia lost one-third of its territory along its western and northern borders, which included its best military reinforcements, natural defenses and vast economic resources. At the incitement of Hitler, Poland and Hungary took advantage of the situation to seize long-disputed border territories. Altogether, Czechoslovakia lost 4.8 million people, one-fourth of whom were Czechs. The Slovaks, too, benefited of the Czech’s weakness, and ancient and recent grievances against the Czechs came bubbling to the surface – Slovaks always felt like the second-class citizens in the First Czechoslovak Republic. So they declared an autonomous government and elected Josef Tiso<\/a> as their president. On March 13, 1939 Hitler summoned Tiso to Berlin, and the following day the Slovak Diet convented and unanimously declared Slovak independence. Tiso immediately banned all opposition political parties and instituted Nazi-inspired censorship, as well as the deportation of Jews (during the war, over 73,000 Slovak Jews were sent to concentration camps).<\/p>\n Not content with the Czechoslovak borderlands, Hitler marched into Prague on March 15, 1939 and announced from the Prague castle the creation of the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia. Officially, the Protectorate was an independent state within the German Reich, but this was only on paper. The Czech government had no power in matters of defense, foreign affairs, or economics. In reality, the Protectorate was a puppet government under the Hitler’s control. Emil Hacha<\/a>, the nominal Czech president appointed by Hitler, did his best to keep concessions to the Germans to a minimum. He compared the situation of the Czech people in the Protectorate to finding yourself in a locked room with a dangerous madman, advising: all you can do is obsequiously agree and pretend to follow orders, so the madman doesn’t throw himself on you; at the same time keep your eye on the door and wait for it to open to freedom. The people, though again humiliated, were this time clearly in no position to rebel and, with what was nearly a sign of relief, settled into the grim and total reality of occupation. From now on, there would be no burden of moral choice. However, in a world of crime it’s impossible to remain on the outside. Many things explain the attitude of the Czechs, but that doesn’t mean they weren’t affected by what happened. They bore a sense of shared guilt, though they might not have been aware of it.<\/p>\n The silver lining to occupation rather than military defeat, however, was that the city of Prague, unlike many capitals of Europe during WWII, suffered only minor damage. The Germans needed Czechoslovakia’s armaments industry and agriculture for their war. Thus, the widespread terror and destruction didn’t exist. Throughout the occupation, Czech books continued to be published, and films continued to be made. As under the Austrians, German was the officially recognized language of the Protectorate, but signs were in both Czech and German. Terror was used mainly against intellectuals, Communists and Jews. In September 1941, Reinhard Heydrich<\/a> of the Nazi SS was appointed Deputy Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia. He established his headquarters in Prague and soon after created a concentration camp in the town of Terezin<\/a>, or Theresianstadt, an old Bohemian fortress town 48 kms north of Prague. Heydrich expelled the Czech population of the town in November 1941 and transformed it into a camp for Jews from the Protectorate.<\/p>\n Terezin was seen by the world as a “model” concentration camp. In 1944 the Red Cross was invited to inspect it, and the results can be seen in the movie “Theresienstadt”<\/a>. Actually, Terezin was a way station on the journeys to the camp at Auschwitz. Of 139,517 inhabitants of the camp between 1941 and 1945, 87,063 were transported to the east. Also 33,521 people died there over the same period. In a surreal twist, however, cultural life in the camp flourished. The inmates published newspapers and schooled their children. Classical music concerts took place, and 25 theatrical productions were performed, often with very elaborate set designs. One was Smetana’s “The Bartered Bride”, which had its Terezin premier in 1943. Please read more about it in my “Terezin, Czech Republic. February 2016”<\/a> blog.<\/p>\n In May of 1942, Czech commandoes who had been trained in London parachuted into Prague and assassinated Heydrich. As a reprisal, the Gestapo and SS hunted down and murdered the Czech agents, resistance members, and anyone suspected of involvement in Heydrich’s death – over 1,000 people were executed. In addition, Hitler ordered the small Czech mining village of Lidice to be destroyed. All 172 men and boys over age 16 in the village were shot on June 10, 1942. The women were deported to Savensbruk concentration camp where most died. 90 young children were send to the camp at Gneisenau, with some taken later to Nazi orphanages if they looked German enough. The town itself was then destroyed, building-by-building, with explosives and then completely leveled until not a trace remained. Grain was planted over the flattened soil, and the name was erased from all German maps. Later, Germans would use the same method in Belarus and Ukraine, sans deportation, as it became too costly and time consuming – they simply burnt all citizens alive, eradicating over 5,295 villages in Belarus alone.<\/p>\n In May of 1945, as US army liberated the western part of the country, General George Patton was told to hold his troops at Plzen and wait for the Soviet army to sweep through Prague because of the Allied Powers’ agreement made in Yalta months before. On May 9, 1945, the Soviet army freed Prague and an estimated 140,000 Soviet soldiers died in liberating Czechoslovakia from German rule. On his return from exile in England, Edvard Benes ordered the expulsion of 2,5 million Germans from Czechoslovakia and the confiscation of all their property. Meanwhile, the Czechoslovak government, exhausted and bewildered by fascism, nationalized 60% of the country’s industries and many looked to Soviet-style Communism as a new model. It is easy to understand why. The Czechs and Slovaks recalled the betrayal by the West at Munich; they also recalled the problems of capitalism during the Great Depression; finally the Soviet Union had the psychological advantage because it was the Red Army that had liberated Prague. After WWII, Communism was extremely popular throughout Europe. Right-wing fascism was the great evil of the 20th century, and many thought capitalism had been instrumental in the rise of fascism.<\/p>\n After the war, the Soviet Union had taken over all of Central and Eastern Europe. As Winston Churchill put it: “From Stettin in the Baltic to Triest in the Adriatic, an iron curtain has descended across the continent. Behind that line lie all the capitals of the ancient states of Central and Eastern Europe.” In Czechoslovakia, the Communists were close to holding a majority in the parliament. Then in the parliamentary elections of 1946, the Czech Communist Party garnered nearly 38% of the vote, the largest share obtained by any party. At this point, it was simply another political party, but as soon as the Communists seized power, they arranged a putsch in February 1948 with staged demonstration and strikes. The non-Communist ministers resigned, as did president Benes; and Jan Masaryk, the son of the founder of Czechoslovakia who was at the time the Foreign Minister, fell from his office’s window to his death. It is not clear whether his death was a homicide or a suicide. After February 1948, Czechoslovakia became a Soviet satellite until November 1989. The government staged elaborate mock trials, imprisoning and executing thousands of innocent people in an attempt to secure its power through fear, intimidation and murder. The only woman to be officially executed was Matilda Horakova, a former member of Parliament and one of the most prominent Czech feminists of the interwar period. The most notorious political trial was the Slansky Process<\/a>, 1951-1952, in which the Jewish deputy premier Rudolf Slansky, who had ordered Horakova’s death, was executed on charged of an antigovernment conspiracy. A mother of my friend Philip, Zuzana Justman wrote and directed a documentary based on this events, called “A Trial in Prague”<\/a>. \u00a0Even after Stalin’s death in 1953 and Nikita Khrushchev’s historic denunciation of Stalin at the 20th Party Congress in 1956, political terror didn’t abate in Czechoslovakia until the 1960s and the advent of the Prague Spring<\/a>.<\/p>\n The thaw finally came about in the Czech lands partially due to the agricultural disasters of collectivization of the 1950s; workers were unhappy that the enormous constructive activity did not lead to an improvement in their living standards or quality of life. By 1963, the economy was so bad that Czechoslovakia actually had a negative growth rate. Social criticism arose in the 1960s among students and the intelligentsia, who called for political and economic changes. A man named Alexander Dubcek became the head of the Communist party of Czechoslovakia in March of 1968, and this is technically the beginning of the Prague Spring. Censorship ceased to exist, and there was a great outpouring of public sentiment against the government. Over a few months, Czechs and Slovaks challenged the official policies of the Communist government and made plans for dramatic changes in public life. What they wanted was a form of socialism better suited to what they considered their own democratic traditions and their historic links with the West. Milan Kundera wrote of the Prague Spring: “The Czech nation tried to create at last (and for the first time in its own history as well as in the history of the world) a socialism without the all-powerful secret police, with freedom of the written and spoken word, public opinion that was heeded and served as the basis for politics, a freely developing modern culture, and people without fear; it was an effort in which Czechs and Slovaks stood again for the first time since the end of the Middle Ages in the center of world history and addressed their challenge to the world”.<\/p>\n The new brand of socialism became known as “socialism with a human face”. It was not capitalism they wanted, but socialism with no censorship and with no limitation of civil liberties. In June, 1968, came a statement called “2,000 Words” which became the most eloquent document of that period. It shook the top echelon of the Party, even among the supporters of the reform movement, and it created a furor in Moscow. The statement was addressed to “workers, farmers, scientists, artists and all people” and was signed by some 150 persons, including prominent scholars, writers, and artists, 3 Olympic champions, and most importantly, perhaps, by many workers and farmers. It contained a scathing attack on the past practices of the Party, which had caused it to become a “power organization… attractive to egotists, avid for rule, to calculating cowards and to people with bad consciences.” In this situation, it continued, “Parliament forgot how to proceed; the government forgot how to govern and the directors how to direct… Still worse was that we all but lost our trust in one another. Personal and collective honor declined.” Then pointing to the many officials who still opposed change, the appeal insisted that there must be no slackening of effort, that the “aim of humanizing this regime” must be fulfilled. “Let us demand the resignation of those who have misused their power… who have acted brutally or dishonestly… Let us establish committees for the defense of freedom of expression.” As to fears of outside intervention, “2,000 Words” stated, “faced with all these superior forces, all we can do is to start nothing but attempt to hold our own. We can assure our government that we will back it – with weapons if necessary – as long as it does what we give it the mandate to do, and we can assure our allies that we will observe our alliances, friendship, and trade agreements.” The statement concluded with what was to prove an ironic prophecy: “The Spring has now ended and will never return. By winter, we will know everything.”<\/p>\n Czechs and Slovaks began to air their grievances and came to terms with their Stalinist past, and art flourished like never before.\u00a0But this didn’t last long. Dubcek and his supporters found themselves caught between the escalating radical appeals of their people and the increasingly conservative demands of the leader of the Soviet Union, Leonid Brezhnev. Finally on August 21, 1968, more than 200,000 Warsaw Pact troops rolled into Prague to bring the Czechs back into line. Believing that they’d be welcomed as liberators, these soldiers from the Soviet Union, Poland, East Germany, Bulgaria and Hungary were bewildered when angry Czechs confronted them with rocks and flaming torches. 58 people were killed and the hopes of an entire generation were crushed. Dubcek was forced to repeal his reform doctrines in Moscow, and when he returned to Prague, he was replaced by Gustav Husak. 14,000 Communist officials and 500,000 party members refused to renounce their beliefs in reform and were summarily expelled from the Communist Party. This was the end of the Prague Spring and the beginning of “Normalization”. There was little armed resistance to the invasion and subsequent totalitarian rule, but there was some passive resistance. In January 1969, a student named Jan Palach<\/a> set himself on fire to protest the invasion, and his suicide was to be followed by the self-immolation of other students until Soviet forces withdrew. On his deathbed, however, Palach, in extreme agony, urged and finally convinced the students not to carry out the plan.<\/p>\n Husak’s regime demanded obedience and conformity in all spheres of life. He returned the country to an orthodox command economy, emphasizing industry and central planning, and increased ties with the Soviet Union. In the 1980s, nearly 80% of Czechoslovakia’s foreign trade was with Communist countries, 50% of which was with the USSR. Czech culture was stifled when strict censorship was reinstituted, and intellectual life in general was purged of critical thinking. An estimated half million people were removed from official positions, and thousands emigrated.<\/p>\n The most common attitudes toward public life after the 1968 invasion were apathy and passivity. Most Czechoslovak citizens ignored public political life and retreated during the 1970s into private consumerism, seeking scarce material goods – new cars, country houses, household appliances, and access to sporting events and entertainment. Unlike in other Communist countries such as Poland, the Czechoslovak resistance movement was small; but a few organized dissident groups were active. The most famous called itself Charter 77<\/a>, a “loose, informal and open association of people” committed to human rights. On January 6, 1977, their manifesto appeared in newspapers throughout the West. It was signed by 243 people – among them, artists, former public officials, and other prominent figures, including the country’s most famous dissident, Vaclav Havel<\/a>. The group became the focus for the regime’s reprisal, when signatories were arrested, interrogated, and dismissed from their places of employment.<\/p>\n In 1989 the Communist governments in Central and Eastern Europe collapsed. Following the reforms of Michail Gorbachev in the USSR in the mid-1980s –\u00a0\u0413\u043b\u0430\u0441\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c \u0438 \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0441\u0442\u0440\u043e\u0439\u043a\u0430 – Poland and Hungary took advantage of the reformist mood of the region and began a series of protests of their respective governments. In East Germany, the citizens rose up and brought down the Berlin Wall. Czechoslovakia’s Communist Party, however, refused to bend. On January 15, 1989, a peaceful demonstration took place on Prague’s Wenceslaus Square in memory of Jan Palach. Then, on November 17, a student march in honor of Jan Opletal, who had been shot by the Nazis, became a massive anti-government demonstration. As part of marchers nonviolent campaign, they held signs calling for a dialogue with the government. Against police warnings, they paraded from the southern citadel at Vysehrad and turned up National Boulevard (Narodni trida), where they soon met columns of helmeted riot police. Holding their fingers in peace signs and chanting, “Our hand are free”, the bravest 500 sat down at the feet of the police. After an excruciating standoff, a crowd of 50,000 was cornered by police, over 500 were beaten and more than 100 arrested. Demonstrations spread throughout the country in the subsequent days, culminating in a massive march of 750,000 protesters on Letna Hill in Prague. Here the leading dissidents and opposition movements, with Havel at their head, formed the opposition group – and future governing party – Civic Forum. They demanded that the Central Committee of the Communist party resign and that all political prisoners be released. On Wenceslas Square, the protesters jungled their keys, a signal to the Politburo that it was time to go. On December 3, the government resignation was negotiated and this victory became known as the Velvet Revolution<\/a>, named both for the nonviolent nature of the transition and for Havel’s favorite rock band, the Velvet Underground.<\/p>\n On December 29, a predominantly Communist Parliament met in Prague Castle and elected Vaclav Havel, a world-renowned playwright as a President of Czechoslovakia. A coalition government was created, and the first free elections since 1946 took place in June 1990 without incident. However, the economical reforms and modernization of the new republic didn’t come easy. In the early 1990s, the expected foreign investments failed to materialize on the required scale, and the economy fared more poorly than expected. Slovakia suffered disproportionally during the transition to a market economy and in June 1992, the Slovak parliament voted to secede from the Republic. On January 1, 1993 Czechoslovakia once again ceased to exist, becoming the Czech and Slovak Republics. The “Velvet Divorce” as it was called, was unexpectedly amicable. The truth to be told, the Czechs and Slovaks had never considered living together until Tomas Masaryk roped together the two nations to create the First Czechoslovak republic in 1918 after the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. But in the end, despite fundamental similarities in language and culture, the Czechs and Slovaks never really managed to create a common national Czechoslovak identity.<\/p>\n Prosperity eventually returned to the country by the end of the 1990s and the Czechs realized a long-held foreign policy goal in 2004 by joining the EU.<\/p>\n February 20, 2016<\/strong><\/p>\n “You should travel to Prague when the days are long, so you will be rewarded by a fair view as the train crosses the placid River Vltava…You have had your first glimpse of Prague, and it was beautiful, so you set about endeavoring to enter into the spirit of the place, to absorb its atmosphere and to study its character. For every ancient city that has stood up against adversity and overcome it has a very definite character of its own. And it is a mysterious and wonderful thing this character, this cachet of a great city….”<\/em>\u00a0 wrote B. Granville Baker in “From a Terrace in Prague” in 1923. Forget the long days, as even in the midst of winter, the bands of German, Chinese, Russian and American tourists descend upon Prague in great quantities. However, the rainy and dark February days allowed me to duck onto narrow, cobbled side streets to find them deserted and to feel time straddling centuries the way Prague straddles its river.<\/p>\n I arrived to Vaclav Havel airport early in the morning and since I had no luggage, I decided to take a public transportation to my hotel, which turned out to be easier than easy. At the arrival hall, I purchased a transfer ticket (32 kc, appx $1.5) to bus #119 which took me to the metro stop “Divoka Sarka” and from there, by metro I went straight to “Mustek” station. It took me no longer than 90 minutes for this journey. I booked a room at the\u00a0Hotel Liberty<\/a><\/strong>, located at the “border” of the Old and New Towns and literally 5 meters from the metro station. My room was available so, after taking a nap (my birthday party the night before went till the wee hours of the night), I walked out of the hotel, wisely equipped with an umbrella.<\/p>\n Even though over 1.2 million people live in Prague, the “tourist” area is relatively compact and consists of 5 neighborhoods organically merged together – Old Town (Stare Mesto), Jewish Quarter (Josefov) and New Town (Nove Mesto) lie to the east of Vltava River while Castle Quarter (Hradcany) and Little Quarter (Mala Strana) lie on its western side. With 4 full days in Prague I felt confident to see them all. Two things became apparent in Prague – the rain would never stop and anywhere I go, I would be surrounded by the beautiful architecture.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Since I brought DK Eyewitness Travel guide book with me, I decided to take advantage of its detailed Street-by-Street walking tours and headed straight to the Old Town (Stare Mesto)<\/strong> – the heart of the city and the first stop of every visitor. You can cross the entire area in 30 minutes, if you don’t get distracted by its charming ambience and picturesque buildings. When in the 11th century the settlements around the Castle spread to the right bank of Vltava, a marketplace appeared in what is now Old Town Square in 1091. Houses and churches sprang up around the square, determining the random network of streets, many of which survived till today. The area gained the privileges of a town in 1231, when it became an important stop on trade routes, and in 1338, it acquired its own Town Hall. The town’s original walls are long gone, but their line can still be traced along the streets of Narodni trida, Na Prikope and Revolucny, and the main gate – the Powder Gate – still survives. To ease the devastation of frequent flooding by the Vltava River, the level of the town was gradually raised, beginning in the 13th century, with new construction simply rising on top of older foundations (many of Stare Mesto’s buildings have Gothic interiors and Romanesque cellars). A huge fire in 1689 contributed to much rebuilding during Catholic Counter-Reformation of the 17th and 18th centuries, giving the formerly Gothic district a Baroque face.<\/p>\n My hotel was located on Na Prikope<\/strong> street, the name means “At the Moat” and harks back to the time when the street was indeed a moat separating the Old Town from the New Town (until it was filled in at the end of the 18th century). This was the haunt of Prague’s German cafe society in the 19th century. Today the pedestrian-only Na Prikope is prime shopping territory. Sleek modern buildings have been sandwiched between baroque palaces, and latter cut up inside to accommodate casinos, boutiques, and fast-food restaurants. The new structures are fairly identical inside, but a few are worth a look, such as Ziba and Slovansky dum (#22) – this late-18th building has been tastefully refurbished and now houses fashionable boutiques, restaurants and a Western-Style multiplex cinema.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Once I reached the small triangular Republic Square, I knew I arrived to the beginning of my “tour”. I have to admit, that I always get stressed when I see a map of a new place, as I have a need to visit every location, otherwise, it feels like a failure to me. That is why Prague was a perfect destination for me, as even in a few winter days, I could leisurely explore most of its historic sites.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n The Divaldo Hybernia<\/a><\/strong> (Hybernia Theater)<\/strong> stands opposite to the entry to the Old Town. Originally built in 1652-1659 as a Gothic church and monastery of St. Ambroise by Irish Franciscans (“Hybernia” is Latin for “Irish”, hence the name), it was later abolished under the Josephine Reforms in 1785. Instead, it was turned into a Bouda Theater in 1792 and reconstructed into the present Empire style between 1808-1811. For years after, the building served as a large exhibition hall until it was rebuilt and refurbished as a Theater, starting its new page with a premier of a Czech musical “Golem” on November 23, 2006.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Across the street, the Prague’s most prominent Art Nouveau building –\u00a0Municipal House<\/strong><\/a> (Obecni dum)<\/strong> (p. 2) stands on the site of the former Royal Court Palace, the king’s residence between 1383 and 1485. Abandoned for centuries, what remained was used as a seminary and later as a military college. It was demolished in the early 1900s to be replaced by the present cultural center (1905-1911) with its exhibition halls and auditorium, designed by Antonin Balsanek assisted by Osvald Polivka. The exterior is embellished with stucco and allegorical statuary. Above the main entrance there is a huge semi-circular mosaic entitled “Homage to Prague” by Karel Spillar. It is set between sculptures representing the oppression and rebirth of the Czech people. Inside, topped by an impressive glass dome, is Prague’s principal concert venue and the core of the entire building, the Smetana Hall, sometimes also used as a ballroom. The interior of the building is decorated with works by leading Czech artists of the first decade of the 20th century, including Alfons Mucha <\/a>(who decorated the Hall of the Lord Mayor with impressive, magical frescoes depicting Czech history; however, it is accessible only as a part of a guided tour). There are numerous smaller halls, conference rooms and offices, as well as cafes and restaurants. On 28 October, 1918, the Municipal House was the scene of the momentous proclamation of the new independent state of Czechoslovakia.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Right next to the Municipal House is the big, black\u00a0Powder Gate<\/strong><\/a> (Prasna Brana)<\/strong> (p.1). There has been a gate here since the 11th century, when it formed one of the 13 entrances to the Old Town. In 1475, king Vladislav II Jagiello laid the foundation stone of the New Tower, as it was to be known. A coronation gift from the city council, the gate was modeled on Peter Parler’s Old Town bridge tower built a century earlier. The gate had little defensive value; its rich sculptural decoration was intended to add prestige to the adjacent palace of the Royal Court. Building was halted 8 years later when the king had to flee because of the riots. On his return in 1485, he opted for the safety of the Castle and since then, the kings never again occupied the Royal Palace. The 65m-tall tower marks the beginning of the Royal Route, the traditional processional course along which medieval Bohemian monarchs paraded on their way to being crowned at Prague Castle. It also was the east gate to the Old Town on the road to Kutna Hora. The gate acquired its present name when it was used to store gunpowder in the 17th century. The sculptural decoration, badly damaged during the Prussian occupation in 1757 and mostly removed soon afterwards, was replaced in 1876. Early in the 20th century, the tower was the daily meeting place of Franz Kafka and his writer friend Max Brod. On the tower’s west side, facing Old Town, you can see a statue of King Premyslid Otakar II, under which is a bawdy relief depicting a young woman slapping a man who’s reaching under her skirt.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Inside, I bought a combined ticket (valid for 3 months, 300 Kc – $14) allowing me to visit all 4 towers of Prague – The Powder Tower, The Old Town Bridge Tower, The Town Belfry by St. Nicholas’ Church and The Little Quarter Bridge Tower. Even though, a look from one of either towers is enough to have an idea of Prague from the bird-view, I have no regrets visiting them all, especially since there were never any other tourists at the top.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n One of the oldest streets in Prague, pedestrian\u00a0Celetna Street<\/strong> <\/a>(Celetna Ulice)<\/strong> (p.3) follows an old trading route from eastern Bohemia. Its name comes from the plaited bread rolls that were first baked here in the Middle Ages. Foundations of Romanesque and Gothic buildings can be seen in some of the cellars, but most of the houses with their picturesque signs are Baroque remodelings. At #34, the House of Black Madonna<\/a> is home to small collection of Czech cubism, including paintings, sculpture, furniture, architectural plans and applied arts.\u00a0The\u00a0Knights Templar<\/a>\u00a0used to hold meetings at the Temple, at #27. After the abolishment of the Knights Templar in 1312, secret meetings were held by the Knights in the basement. The building then became a\u00a0hospital, and later, a private home in 1784. #29 was a Golden Angel Inn, where Mozart used to stay and\u00a0Jorge Luis Borges<\/a>\u00a0commemorated the street in his story “The Secret Miracle” assigning to the main character, Jaromir Hladik a residency on this street in March, 1939.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n To the north of Celenta Street is the Church of St. James<\/strong><\/a> (Kostel Sv. Jakuba)<\/strong> (p.4). This attractive Baroque church was originally the Gothic presbytery of a Minorite monastery. The order (a branch of the Franciscans) was invited to Prague by Kind Wenceslas I in 1232. It was rebuilt in the Baroque style after a fire in 1689, allegedly started by agents of Louis XIV. Over 20 side altars were added, decorated with works by painters such as Jan Jiri Heinsch, Petr Brandl and Vaclav Vavrinec Reiner. The tomb of Count Vratislav of Mitrovice (1714-1716), designed by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach and executed by sculptor Ferdinand Brokoff, is the most beautiful Baroque tomb in Bohemia. The count is said to have been accidentally buried alive – his corpse was later found sitting up in the tomb. Hanging on the right of the entrance is a mummified forearm. It has been there for over 500 years, ever since a thief tried to steal the jewels from the Madonna on the high altar. According to legend, Virgin grabbed his arm and held on so tightly it had to be cut off by the monks. (The truth may not be far behind: the church was a favorite of the guild of butchers, who may have administered their own justice.) Because of its long nave, the building’s acoustics are excellent and many concerts and recitals are given here. Don’t forget to check out a magnificent organ built in 1702.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The huge, traffic-free\u00a0Old Town Square<\/a> (Staromestske namesti)<\/strong> (p.7) ranks among the finest public spaces in any city. It has been Prague’s principal public square since the 10th century, and served as its main marketplace until the beginning of the 20th century, when rows of merchants’ stalls used to fill the cobbled plaza. Over the centuries, Old Town Square’s size and location has made it an epicenter for celebrations, cataclysms, political enunciations, and executions. In the 14th century, King Wenceslas threw massive parties here once the market had closed for the night; in 1422 the radical Hussite preacher Jan Zelivsky was executed here for his part in storming the New Town’s Town Hall three years earlier; in 1600 the square hosted the world’s first public dissection of a corpse. 27 white crosses embedded in the square’s paving stones, at the base of Old Town Hall, mark the spot where 27 Bohemian noblemen were killed by the Austrian Habsburgs in 1621 during the dark days following the defeat of the Czechs at the Battle of White Mountain. The square was the headquarters of the Resistance during the 1944 Prague Uprisings, in which 5,000 Czechs died in 4 days of fierce fighting against the Nazi occupation. In 1948, a time when Communists were still popularly viewed as the country’s liberators, massive crowds gathered here to hear the words of Czechoslovakia’s first Communist president. I haven’t witnessed any demonstrations on the Square during my visit, but definitely enjoyed the nightly open-air impromptu performances, in rain and fog. If you can ignore the tourists, it is a great place to stop and look around, absorbing all the beauty of this square. Dominating Art Nouveau monument of Jan Hus is a convenient meeting place for tourist and a focal point for souvenir hawkers and freelance guides. Cafes and shops the pastel shades of after-dinner mints line the square’s periphery. Their Baroque roofs are interrupted at one end by the Gothic tower of the 13th century bell-house and at the other by an ornate 15th century astronomical clock that every hour unleashes a mechanical morality play from 2 cuckoo-clock windows.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Some of Prague’s colorful history is preserved around the Old Town Square in the form of its buildings. On the north side, the Pauline Monastery is the only surviving piece of the original architecture. The east side boasts two superb examples of the architecture of their times: the House at the Stone Bell (built in the 14th century for the father of Charles IV), restored to its former appearance as a Gothic town palace, and the Kinsky Palace<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>(p.9).\u00a0<\/strong>This lovely Rococo palace, designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, has a pretty pink and white stucco facade crowned with statues of the four elements by Ignaz Franz Platzer. It was bought from the Golz family in 1768 by Stepan Kinsky, an Imperial diplomat.\u00a0Franz Kafka’s father, Hermann Kafka, was a\u00a0haberdasher<\/a>, whose store was located on the ground floor of the palace. The palace also contained a German school – where Franz Kafka himself studied for 9 misery-laden years. The palace also served as a home to Baroness Bertha von Suttner, a secretary to Alfred Nobel and herself the first female recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1905. In 1948 Communist leader Klement Gottwald, used the balcony to address a huge crowd of party members – a key event in a crisis that led up to his coup d’etat. Presently, the National Gallery uses the Kinsky Palace for art exhibitions.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Across from Kinsky Palace, on the northern end of the Square is a massive monument to the religious reformer and Czech hero – Jan Hus Memorial <\/a>(Pomnik Jana Husa)<\/strong> (p.10). As I mentioned in the “History” part of this blog, Hus was burnt at the stake after being pronounced a heretic by the council of Constance in 1415. The present monument by Ladislav Saloun was unveiled in 1915 on the 500th anniversary of Hus’ death. It shows two groups of people, one of victorious Hussite warriors, the other of Protestants forced into exile 200 years later, and a young mother symbolizing national rebirth. One patriot holds a chalice (cup) – in the medieval Church, only priests could drink the wine at Communion. Since the Hussites fought for their right to take both the wine and the bread, the cup is their symbol. The dominant figure of Hus emphasizes the moral authority of the man who gave up life rather than his beliefs. This romantic depiction of Hus, who appears here as tall and bearded in flowing garb, is disputed, as historians claim that real Hus was short and baby-faced. Nevertheless, Hus looks proudly at Tyn Church which became the headquarters and leading church of his followers. A golden chalice once filled the now-empty niche under the gold bas-relief of the Virgin Mary on the church’s facade. After the Hubsburg victory over the Czechs in 1620, the Hussite chalice was melted down and made into the image of Mary that shines from that spot night over the square today.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The spiky-topped 80m high\u00a0Church of Our Lady before Tyn<\/a> (Kostel Matki Bozy pred Tynem)<\/strong> (p.8, no photos, free entry), or “Tyn church” is early Gothic, though it takes some imagination to visualize the original in its entirety because half of the building is strangely hidden behind the contemporaneous four-storey Tyn School. Hence, the entrance to the church is through the Old Town Square arcades, under the house at #14. One of the best examples of Prague Gothic, the church’s exterior is in part the work of Peter Parler, an architect responsible for many of Prague’s iconic sights (including Charles Bridge and St. Vitus’s Cathedral). The present church was started in 1365, however the construction of its twin black-spired towers began later, by King Jiri of Podebrad in 1461, during the heyday of Hussites. On the norther side of the church is a beautiful entrance portal (1390) decorated with scenes of Christ’s passion. Much of the interior, including the tall nave, was rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 17th century. Some Gothic pieces remain, however: look to the left of the main altar for a beautifully preserved set of early Gothic carvings, sculptures of Calvary and a pewter font (1414). The main altar itself was painted by Karel Skreta, a luminary of the Czech Baroque. The oldest\u00a0pipe organ\u00a0in Prague stands inside this church, built in 1673 by Heinrich Mundt, it is one of the most representative 17th-century organs in Europe. The Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe, one of Rudolf II’s most illustrious “consultants” (who died in 1601 a few days after bursting his bladder), is buried near the chancel.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Behind the church is the Tyn (or Ungelt) Courtyard (Tynsky Dvur)<\/strong>, with its numerous architectural styles. This fortified courtyard was the commercial nucleus of medieval Prague, a sort of caravanserai for foreign merchants. Here, the traders (usually German, as “ungelt” means ‘customs duty” in German) would store their goods and pay taxes before setting up stalls on the Old Town Square. Notice that, for the purpose of guaranteeing the safety of goods and merchants, there are only two entrances to the complex. After decades of disuse, the courtyard had fallen into such disrepair by the 1980s that authorities considered demolishing it. But now, marvelously restored, the Ungelt courtyard is the most pleasant area in the Old Town for dining outdoors (weather permit) and shopping. And of course, it is a location of the House of the Golden Ring (Dum u Zlateho Prstenu) – City of Prague’s Gallery.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Church of St. Nicholas<\/a> (Kostel Sv. Mikulase)<\/strong> (p.11 – don’t confuse with the Chram Sv. Mikulase, located in Little Quarter) stands on the northern part of the Square, separating the Old Town from Josefov (Jewish Quarter). One of the oldest churches in Old Town, St. Nicholas was originally built in 12th century in Gothic or Romanesque styles (remains of the old walls can still be seen in the cellar). In its glory days, the church used to have 16 altars, where up to 3 Holy Masses were served daily, sponsored by the most prominent Old Town families. It was used as a parish church until Tyn Church was completed in the 14th century, and as a place for meetings of the City Council until the Old Town Hall was built in 1338. During the Hussite Wars and in the 16th century the church was used by Hussites, however after the battle of the White Mountain in 1620, it became part of a Benedictine monastery. The present church was designed (1732-1839) by Prague’s own master of late Baroque, Kilian Ignaz Deintzenhofer. In 1781 after the religious reforms of the Austrian Emperor Joseph II, the monastery was dissolved and the church building was sold to the Old Town City Council for a small price. The building was then used as a storehouse and later as a music hall. In WWI the church was used to the troops of Prague garrison. The colonel in charge took the opportunity to restore the church with the help of artists who might otherwise have been sent to the front. After the WWI in 1920, the newly established Czechoslovak Hussite Church found its new home here. This church is probably less successful in capturing the style’s lyric exuberance that its namesake across town, however, its facade is pretty dramatic, studded with statues by Antonin Braun. The interior is compact, with beautiful, large crown-shaped chandelier and an enormous black organ that overwhelms the rear of the church. The dome has frescoes of the lives of St. Nicholas and St. Benedict by Kosmas Damian Asam. If you are in the mood, attend one of the evening concerts given in the church.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n A colorful array of houses of Romanesque or Gothic origin, with fascinating house signs, graces the southern side of the Old Town Square<\/strong>. The block between Celetna Street and Zelezna Street is especially attractive, hosting a tourist information center, as well as a number of outdoor restaurants, cafes and galleries. The following houses I would describe from left to right (east to west). Storch House – the late 19th century painting of St. Wenceslas on horseback by Mikulas Ales appears on this ornate Neo-Renaissance building, also known as At the Stone Madonna. At the Stone Ram – the early 16th century house sign shows a young maiden with a ram. The house has been referred to as At the Unicorn due to the similarity between the one-horned ram and a unicorn. Next peach building is At the Stone Table, it is followed by a mint-colored U Lazara (At Lazarus’s) – Romanesque barrel vaulting testifies to the house’s early origins, though it was rebuilt during the Renaissance. The ground floor houses the Staromestska restaurace. Right before Zelezna Street is At the Golden Unicorn building.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Past Zelezna Street, buildings don’t get any less beautiful. White house At the Storks, is followed by At the Red Fox – a golden Madonna and Child look down from the Baroque facade of an originally Romanesque building. Next building is At the Blue Star, followed by a bright blue house – a home to Prague’s Starbucks Cafe. Entrance to Melantrichova Passage, which has been commemorated in a famous painting by Vaclav Jansa (1898), is guarded by an early 18th century stone statue of St. Anthony of Padua, located at the corner of At The Ox building, named after its 15ht century owner, the burgher Ochs. This passage leads directly to the New Town’s Wenceslas Square, passing a ton of shops.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The west side of the Old Town Square is adorned by the Old Town Hall, with its tourist-attracting Astronomical Clock and a small attractive building, called House U Minuty<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>(#3 in the Old Town Square).\u00a0This Gothic house was\u00a0built at the beginning of the\u00a015th century\u00a0probably in the place of a broken alley as a two-storey small home with a backyard.\u00a0In\u00a01430\u00a0a part of the neighboring house was attached to it and in\u00a01564, the low third floor with a\u00a0lunette ledge\u00a0was added.\u00a0Sgraffiti,\u00a0created in two stages – in\u00a01600\u00a0and in\u00a01615 and\u00a0restored in 1920s,\u00a0depict a mix of\u00a0Biblical motifs, scenes from the Renaissance life and of ancient Greeks. Initially, the house served as a pharmacy called “The White Lion”, however, it was later converted into a tabacco store “U Minuty”. It was Franz Kafka who made this house famous, as he and his family lived here from 1889 till 1896.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Little street to the left of U Minuty leads into\u00a0Little Square\u00a0(Male Namesti) <\/strong>adjacent to the Old Town Square. Though, it can’t boast as much history as its larger companion, excavations have proven that Male Namesti was a prime piece of real estate as far back as the 12th century. Archeologists turned up bits of pottery, evidence of medieval pathways, and human bones from the late 1100s, when developers committed the medieval equivalent of paving over cemetery to build a shopping mall. There is a beautiful iron fountain dating from around 1560 in the center of the square. The colorful painted house at #3 (V.J. Rott) was originally a hardware store and now it hosts a hotel “U Rotta” and a Hard Rock Cafe. It is not as old as it looks and is decorated with colorful paintings by the 19th century artist Mikulas Alex. However, look around the square and you surely would be able to find some authentic Gothic portals and Renaissance sgraffiti that reflect the place’s true age.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Once I completed a circle around the Old Town Square and soaked in its pastel colors and atmosphere, it was time to check out its jewel – Old Town Hall <\/a>(Staromestka Rodnice)<\/strong> (p.12). One of the most striking buildings in Prague, it was established in 1338 after King John of Luxemburg agreed to set up a town council. The councilors of the\u00a0Old Town\u00a0bought a magnificent patrician house of the Volflin family and adapted it for their purposes.\u00a0Over the centuries a number of old houses were knocked together as the Old Town Hall expanded, and it now consists of a row of five colorful Gothic and Renaissance buildings, most of which have been carefully restored. The impressive 60m tall tower was first built in the 14th century and it offers a spectacular view of the city. The Town Hall has played a significant role in the history of both Prague and the Czech state – George of Podebrady was elected the King of Bohemia here and Jan Zelivsky was decapitated in its courtyard, it witnessed the execution of the 27 nobles in the Estates Uprising in 1620 as well as the destruction by the Nazis in 1945.<\/p>\n Presently, the far left building hosts the Temporary art exhibitions and serves as an entrance to the Tower. The next bright red building contains the Old Town Coat of Arms adopted in 1784, it sits above the inscription, “Prague, Head of the Kingdom”. The following building is a former house of Volflin of Kamen, the original owner of the building. Its late Gothic main entrance to the Town Hall was carved by Matthias Rejsek. And of course, the Tower with its Astronomical Clock is hard to miss.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/a><\/p>\n Crowds congregate in front of Old Town Hall’s Astronomical Clock (Orloj)\u00a0<\/strong>to watch the glockenspiel spectacle that occurs hourly from 8.00 to 23.00. Built in 1410 by the master Mikulas of Kadane, the clock has long been an important symbol of Prague. According to legend, after the timepiece was remodeled in 1490, clock artist Master Hanus was blinded by the Municipal Council so that he couldn’t repeat his fine work elsewhere. In retribution, Hanus threw himself into the clock mechanism and promptly died, leaving the clock out of kilter for almost a century. As strange as it sounds, but you have to be a rocket scientist to determine the time of day from this timepiece; it is easier to look at the other clock on the very top of Old Town Hall’s tower for this. This astronomical clock, with all its hands and markings, is meant to mark the phases of the moon, the equinoxes, the seasons, the days and numerous Christian holidays.<\/p>\n When the clock strikes an hour, a kind of politically incorrect medieval morality play begins. Two doors slide open and the statues of the Twelve Apostles glide by, while the 15th century conception of the “evils” of life – a skeleton, symbolizing Death, kneeling and turning an hourglass upside down, a preening Vanity admiring itself in a mirror, a corrupt Turk nodding his head, and an acquisitive Jew – shake and dance below. At the end of the WWII, the horns and beard were removed from the moneybag-holding Jew, who’s now politely referred to as Greed. The four figures below these are the Chronicler, Angel, Astronomer and Philosopher. Apostles parade past the windows above the clock, nodding to the crowds. One the left side are Apostle Paul (with a sword and a book), Thomas (lance), Jude (book), Simon (saw), Bartholomew (book), and Barnabas (parchment); on the right side are Peter (with a key), Matthew (axe), John (snake), Andrew (cross), Philip (cross) and James (mallet). Finally, a cock crows and a trumpet blares to mark the end of the spectacle, all to the ignorant enthusiastic applause from the crowds below.<\/p>\n On the upper face, the disc in the middle of the fixed part depicts the world known at the time – with Prague at the center, of course. The gold sun traces a circle through the blue zone of day, the brown zone of dusk (Crepusculum in Latin) in the west (Occasus), the black disk of night, and down (Aurora) in the east (Ortus). From this the hours of sunrise and sunset can be read. The curved lines with black Arabic numerals are part of an astrological “star clock”.<\/p>\n The sun-arm points to the hour of the Roman-numeral ring; the top XII is noon and the bottom XII is midnight. The outer right, with Gothic numerals, reads traditional 24-hour Bohemian time, counted from sunset; the number 24 is always opposite the sunset hour on the fixed (inner) face. The moon, with its phases shown, also traces a path through the zones of day and night, riding on the offset moving ring. On the ring you can also read which houses of the zodiac the sun and moon are in. The hand with a little star at the end of it indicates side-real (stellar) time.<\/p>\n The calendar wheel beneath all this astronomical wizardry, with 12 seasonal scenes celebrating rural Bohemian life, is a duplicate of one painted in 1866 by the Czech Revivalist Josef Manes (original is in the Prague City Museum). Most of the dates around the calendar wheel are marked with the names of their associated saints; 6 July honors Jan Hus.<\/p>\n\n