{"id":588,"date":"2014-01-09T22:40:55","date_gmt":"2014-01-10T03:40:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/svetanyc.com\/?p=588"},"modified":"2015-01-27T16:38:47","modified_gmt":"2015-01-27T21:38:47","slug":"chittorgarh-india-january-2014","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/192.168.2.119:1984\/svetanyc\/2014\/01\/chittorgarh-india-january-2014\/","title":{"rendered":"Chittorgarh, India. January 2014"},"content":{"rendered":"

January 8, 2014<\/p>\n

After observing the early morning rituals by the holy Pushkar<\/a> lake, Sunil and I continued our car journey through Rajasthan<\/a> \u00a0and proceeded to another spectacular site, usually skipped by most travelers, Chittorgarh Fort<\/a>. \u00a0Located about 180 kms from Pushkar, Chittorgarh is the largest fort complex in India regarded as the epitome of Chattari Rajput<\/a> pride, romance, spirit and tragedy, for the people of Chittorgarh \u00a0on three occasions chose definite death (jauhar<\/a>) before surrender. Even though, it is presently nothing more than a ruined citadel, for people of Rajasthan, it remains a symbol of all that was brave, true and noble in glorious Rajput<\/a> tradition.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6667\"<\/a><\/p>\n

They say, Chittor, a magnificent 6 kms long fortification perched on top of 180 m cliffs, was built by the Maurya<\/a> in the 7th century B.C. \u00a0Mauryan dynasty ended in 271 B.C and till the 7th century A.D. the fort was ruled by Chitrangada Mori<\/a> (where the name Chittor originated from). In 734 A.D. Bappa Rawal<\/a>, the founder of the kingdom of Mewar<\/a>, seized Chittorgarh and made it his capital (another version says that he received Chittor as a part of the dowry after marrying the last Solanki<\/a> princess). \u00a0For 834 years, the fort remained the capital of Mewar kingdom, which stretched from Gujarat to Ajmer. It was one of the most contested seats of power in India and a place of the most glorious battles fought over its possession. With only brief interruptions, Chittorgarh has always remained in possession of the Sisodias<\/a> of the Guhilot clan of Rajputs.<\/p>\n

Trice in its history, the fort was conquered and each time it ended in honorable yet horrific \u00a0tradition of jauhar – the males of the fort, dressed in saffron robes drove to fight the enemy till imminent death, while women committed act of self-immolation by jumping into a funeral pyre.<\/p>\n

The first attack was by Alauddin Khilji <\/a>\u00a0Sultan of Delhi in 1303 A.D. According to my beautiful guide and host Parvati, Alauddin was given a parrot as a present and every time this parrot saw Alauddin’s wives, he kept shouting that Rani Padmini<\/a> of Mewar was yet the most beautiful woman in the world. Infuriated but intrigued, Alauddin gathered a huge army to march on Chittorgarh and acquire Rani Padmini, if she was indeed as beautiful as parrot was saying. \u00a0Upon reaching the great walls of the fort, Alauddin deceitfully promised \u00a0Maharana Rawal Ratan Singh<\/a> to allow him to take a look at Padmini, after which he would withdraw the \u00a0army back to Delhi. \u00a0Because no man but the king-husband could see Rani Padmini, they came up with a solution – Rani would sit on the steps of her palace in the middle of the lake, looking into water, while Alauddin would stand in the palace on the bank of the lake, \u00a0with his back to the window but looking in the mirror at the \u00a0reflection of Rani in the lake. \u00a0Upon seeing her in the mirror, Alauddin fell desperately in love \u00a0and ordered his army to capture the fort and its queen. Rani Padmini along with other citizens of Chittorgarh committed jauhar, but the legend of her beauty until present day told and re-told by people of Rajasthan.<\/p>\n

The fort was recaptured in 1326 by the young Hamir Singh<\/a> and by the 16th century Mewar had became the leading Rajput state. Rana Sanga of Mewar <\/a>led the combined Rajput forces against the first Mughal emperor Babur<\/a> in 1527, but was defeated at the Battle of Khanwa<\/a>. In 1535, Bahadur Shah<\/a>, the Sultan of Gujarat, besieged the fort again causing immense carnage. Just like in 1303, \u00a032,000 men rode out to face certain death, while Rani Karnavati<\/a> led women to commit an act of self-immolation.<\/p>\n

Jauhar was perform for the third time after Akbar the Great <\/a>captured Chittorgarh in 1568, after which the capital was permanently moved to Udaipur<\/a>, \u00a0a residency of \u00a0the young heir Rana Udai Singh II<\/a> since 1559.<\/p>\n

Chittorgarh was never rebuilt nor re-populated. A small village still exists on the top of the hill, surrounded by the authentic and partially restored walls of the fort. \u00a0I was lucky to reserve a room at, perhaps, the only available accommodation in the fort – Padmini Haveli<\/a>, \u00a0a \u00a090 year old converted school beautifully restored and run by the local family. I can’t deny that it was perhaps the most beautiful and authentic historic hotel I have stayed in India.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6736\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sunil and I reached Chittorgarh around 2 pm and after entering one of its 7 gates, Ram Pol, \u00a0we drove into the fort’s settlement. Sunil has never been to Chittorgarh before, because most of his clients neither knew about it, nor had time to visit this off \u00a0“traditional Ajmer-Udaipur route” site. I happened to treat myself with yet another fantastic historic site away from foreign crowds. We would have hard time navigating the narrow ancient streets had we not met a beautiful young lady in pink saree riding a moped. It was Parvati – the owner of Padmini Haveli, and since I was her only guest that day, she figured that a car with a blonde girl inside was heading towards the hotel. \u00a0She showed us the way to the Haveli, a porter boy helped me with my luggage and after having a delicious cup of tea in the courtyard, Parvati took me around the fort (Rs.800). I couldn’t have wished for a better guide!<\/p>\n

We took Sunil with us since Chittorgarh covers a huge area but the circular road within the fort links all the gates and provides access to all the monuments (ruined palaces and 130 temples) within the fort walls. The guide book recommended 3 hours to see everything, however, it took us almost 5 hours, even with a car.<\/p>\n

After paying for the entry ticket (Rs.100) we went to explore the largest and oldest structure in Chittorgarh – Kumbha Palace<\/a>. Presently, this magnificent palace complex provides only faint glimpses of pristine glory of the Rajputs. \u00a0Maharana Kumbha<\/a> (1433-1468) made several additions and alterations to the previous palaces on that site. Two gates lead to the Kumbha Palace , Badi Pol and Suraj Pol, and during its remarkable past, the Palace consisted of multiple apartments, The Surya Gokhra, Zenana Mahal (women’s palace), Kanwar Pade ka Mahal, elephant and horses stables, a Shiva temple and other residential buildings and courtyards. Both, the exterior and interior of the remaining structures, are interactively carved and decorated with canopied balconies, making it very easy for visitors to imagine their previous splendor and luxury.<\/p>\n

\"DSC_8010\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Maharana Udai Singh II, the founder of Udaipur, was born here. The legend says that his maid, Panna Dai<\/a>, saved the prince by replacing him with her own son as a decoy, while Udai Singh was spirited away in a fruit basket. \u00a0Thus, the dynasty was saved. This is also the Palace where Rani Padmini, consigned herself to the funeral pyre in one of the underground cellars, committing an act of jauhar along with many other women.<\/p>\n

\"DSC_8017\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On the other side of Kumbha Palace is a small but beautiful and active Kumbhaswamin Temple<\/a>\u00a0(originally dedicated to Varaha<\/a> but now to Lord Krishna<\/a>)\u00a0renovated by Maharana Kumbha. Raised on high plinth, it comprises of a sanctum, a mandapa<\/a>, a portico and an open pradakshina path<\/a>. Built in the ornate Indo-Aryan style, the interior of mandapa is composed of twenty pillars with a roof built in the form of pyramid. Its carved panels illustrate 15th century Mewar life. In front of the temple is an image of Garuda <\/a>under the canopy supported by four pillars.\u00a0The sanctum appears to be original and shows bold podium moldings decorated with sculptured niches.<\/p>\n

\"DSC_8027\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On the south, there is another smaller shrine called Meera Mandir<\/a>, associated with the mystic-poetess Meera Bai, a 16th century Mewar royal who was poisoned by her brother-in-law, but survived due to the blessing of Krishna. She is one of the most famous historical figures whose compositions are still popular throughout North India. Meera Bai was the most passionate worshipper of lord Krishna, and legend has it, that her love for Krishna epitomized by her final disappearance in the temple of Krishna in Dwarka<\/a>. She is believed to have entered the sanctum of the temple in the state of ecstasy after which the sanctum’s door shut on their own. When re-opened later, Meera Bai was no where to be found, but her saree was seen enwrapped around the idol of Lord Krishma, symbolizing her final union with the Lord.<\/p>\n

Right before the famous Chittorgarh landmark – Vijaya Stambha- I noticed another very different and definitely old temple Sammidheshwar Mahadev<\/a> (also called Mokalji’s Temple because it was restored by Maharana Mokal in 1428 A.D.). \u00a0The temple was built by Raja Bhoj in the 6th century, and contains the inscription on the western wall of the temple, left by Kumarapala<\/a>, the Chalukyan ruler<\/a> of Gujarat, when he visited the temple soon after conquering Arana Raja, the Chauhan<\/a> ruler of Ajmer in 1150 A.D.<\/p>\n

\"DSC_8044\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The Sanctum of the temple (Garbhagriha<\/a>) has three idols joined in a single statue representing all 3 Hindu gods together – Brahma<\/a>, Vishnu <\/a>and Shiva<\/a>. Middle idol stands for Vishnu, left for Brahma and right for Shiva. The centered idol of Vishnu has big eyes as if he is watching the world; \u00a0idol of Brahma is regenerating the world; and the idol of Shiva, with a gap in his mouth, looks as if it is swallowing the world.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6632\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Down beyond the Sammidheshwar Temple is the most picturesque place in the fort – Gaumukh Reservoir<\/a> – a deep water tank carved out on the edge of the cliff. It takes its name from a spring that feeds the tank from gaumukh (cow’s mouth).<\/p>\n

\"DSC_8042\"<\/a><\/p>\n

It was getting late and Parvati rushed me to see the symbol of \u00a0Chittorgarh – Vijay Stambha<\/a> or Victory Tower. The Stambha was built in 1448 A.D. by Maharana Kumbha to commemorate his victory over Sultan of Malwa<\/a> in 1440 A.D. \u00a0Dedicated to Vishnu, it rises 37.19 m high in nine exquisitely carved storeys distinctly marked with openings and balconies at every face of each story. The entire tower, inside and out, covered with architectural ornaments and inscribed images of gods and goddesses, seasons, weapons and musical instruments etc. It is regarded as a veritable textbook of Hindu iconography.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6644\"<\/a><\/p>\n

After paying additional Rs.50, I climbed the 157 narrow stairs to the 8th floor and enjoyed not only the splendid views of the Chittorgarh, but also the beautifully carved interior. \u00a0Luckily, I reached the top floor when there was no one there, so I could spend a few moments on my own, savoring the beauty and uniqueness of this place.<\/p>\n