Is this the end? Does the last chemo qualify as the end of the treatment? Does it end the cancer? Will it be the beginning of a new life? Is this the last chemo? Is this the last treatment? There are so many questions, but for the moment in time, I am taking a deep breath believing that this is the end.

I didn’t wait for the last cycle, my superstitious self was afraid to look that far forward though, of course, I knew the day – Tuesday, February 3, 2015. And the day has come, at last.

The New York Presbyterian Weill Cornell admission office called at 8 am when I was still in bed and asked me to come in as soon as I was ready. Dimitris and I headed over at 9.30 am and were promptly checked in and placed in a ward 207A Central. Out of 8 times in the hospital, I spent most of my time in the Central. I knew the protocol and the usual routine – the nurse would access my double port, fix the catheters, draw blood and wait for the results.

Meanwhile, one of the PAs dropped by to acquire about changes in my condition. By now, she is well aware of all the new medications/conditions/appointments I acquired in a two-week break we haven’t seen each other. When the blood results come in, a PA will issue an order for chemo – first for Rituxan and then for the first 24 hour pack – Doxorubicin and Etoposide.

I didn’t get my first pack before 3.15 pm, so I spent time walking around the 10th floor. Logging 10,000 steps a day is my goal when I am in the hospital. I move and it makes me feel accomplished at least in something. Before hooking me up on Rituxan, I was given the usual Tylenol, Benadryl and Aloxi (the 72-hour anti-nausea medication). Zofran wasn’t working for me anymore, they call it a cumulative effect of chemotherapy. First time on Rituxan scared the hell out of me, so I prefer to spend time with my first pack in bed, plus Benadryl makes me really sleepy, which helps, it speeds things up.

At around 7 pm, I was placed on my first 24-hour brown pack, at the rate of 43.3 ml/h, which is the hospital standard but by then, I already requested to speed my packs up to 55 ml/h starting from the pack number 2. It cuts the time by 5-6 hours per pack. Along with my regular medications (Nexium, Colace, Lyrica, Bactrim DS, Valtrex, Entecavir, Senna, Ambien, Warfarin, Diltiazem cream, Cilest, Biotene and Magic Mouthwash), they added magnesium to my list.

On the second day, I got acquainted with my roommate, Yekaterina and her husband Igor. Yekaterina is a 78 y.o. newly diagnosed leukemia patient. She and he husband immigrated from St. Petersburg 30 years ago in order for her to get a free kidney transplant in the US, after which she went to get a pace-maker, and brain aneurysm and now, cancer; while her husband, unable to learn English and find a job became her full time caregiver. On Sunday, they celebrated their 51st wedding anniversary and I can’t describe in words how much love, care, passion and most importantly humor they have for each other. Yekaterina, despite her severe health condition, age and nearly deafness, was always courteous and merry. I was even more amazing to find out that Yekaterina, as a child, survived the entire siege of Leningrad in 1940s.

Meanwhile, I continued to walk, read, watch Stanford classes online, I made myself busy. Luckily, this time around, I didn’t have many side effects I experienced during my early chemotherapies such as chest pains, weakness, constipation, only nausea. I made new friends in the hospital, who were on the same protocol as me, only a few cycles behind. We all discussed the common side effects and share advices on how we cope with them at home. Indeed, my cancer is not your cancer, everyone is unique and reacts to everything differently.

On Monday, Dr.J.L. for once was an on-duty Hospital doctor, so he came to check on me with 6 other residents. Frankly, by now I have no other questions but about the recovery and rehabilitation process. They scheduled me for a meeting with a physical therapist to assess my condition and perhaps schedule a treatment to get me back on my feet. In the last 5 months, I learnt how to mitigate my side effects more or less effectively, but I am at loss when it comes to what will come next. When will be the day when I say – I became “normal self” 6 months after my chemo was over, 18 months, 24 months? For now, my goal is to be “normal” the day I come back home.

A small accident happened on Monday night when my roommate stepped out and somebody came to the ward and stole their computer, electronic translator and a box for hearing aid. It was particularly bad because I was in the room too, but resting with my eyes closed, so I heard the brisk steps but didn’t pay attention. How little dignity it takes to steel from somebody at the oncology ward. May they burn in hell.

The same evening, Dimitris brought two cakes for the nurse stations in the South and Central to celebrate my last chemo. Nurses do their jobs as well as they can, but I wanted to let them know that I appreciate even the smallest, the most incremental gestures they made to make me feel better and I know that many of them went beyond their call of duty to do so. It was my small token of appreciation.

My last chemo pack was over at 3 am on Tuesday morning and after requesting an additional dosage of Aloxi, I was sent home by 9 am.

After my last chemo cycle, my discharged paper stated my diagnosis:

1. Lymphoma
2. Atrial thrombus
3. Anticoagulation
4. Peripheral neuropathy
5. Encounter for antineoplastic chemotherapy
6. Anemia
7. Anal Fissure
8. Pancytopenia

In September 2014 I checked in with one disease, in February 2015, I checked out with 8, but I am alive.

I’ve learnt that the best way to cope with emerging side effects is to keep myself busy. Luckily, our Oxford classmate, Hideki and his family were visiting NYC from Tokyo so we invited them to come for tea. It is strange and awkward to tell your friends, once again, that you have cancer, but I guess eventually, they all will slowly find out.

My night was sleepless and terribly nauseous but I am looking forward to recovery, this time – full recovery.

Wednesday – Tuesday, February 3-17, 2015

When you want something really bad and keep very quiet about it, but still don’t get it, this is when you become utterly disappointed. I thought, 5 chemo cycles taught me how to deal with the post-chemo side effects, but this time was different. They say, chemo has a cumulative effect, it goes into your body, then goes again and again but never completely leaves it. No matter how much water I drink (to wash chemo out), it stays in the body and makes me more and more sick. Now, when I completed 6 cycles, i feel like my entire self, including my soul, was soaked in chemo. Thus, I faced difficulties getting back to an “ok” state.

The side effects didn’t hit me until two days later. I can’t explained the delay and I frankly hoped it would skip me all together this time, but it hit me hard. The nausea, horrible bone pain, vertigo, fissures, weakness etc. Nurse came to check on me a few times. She is really lovely and knows a whole lot about holistic medicine alone with conventional one. She has advised me to take Epsom Salt baths for the bone pain and drink Gelatin supplement for stomach coating and it seems to be working. I was also pre-approved for 4 home visits from a physical therapist, Richard, and when he showed up to evaluate my state, he exhausted me just by making me get up the couch and sit back down, continuously 5 times. How come i lost all my stamina?! My heart was trying to get out of my chest, I was out of breath and the rest of the day I spent in bed. I know, my body needs time to heal and recover before I can start working out but when is the right time?

On Tuesday, February 10, I had my blood work and apparently, my WBC dropped to 0.0X, my hemoglobin was low, which explains vertigo and weakness, but so were my platelets, hence – no endurance since blood doesn’t carry enough oxygen. I was placed back on a 7 day antibiotic-course and advised to continue the neupogen shots.  Since I already said goodbyes to everyone at the hospital, the last thing I wanted to do was to end up there with neutropenia again. So, I stayed home and cooked; apparently, after my mom left, cooking became one of my favorite hobbies.

On Thursday, February 12 I had a follow up blood work and an appointment with Dr. J.L.  My counts were back to normal or growing, my vitals looked fine, I was taken off Lyrica but continued to take other medications, and I was given my next appointment only in 6 weeks. Wow, I couldn’t believe I wouldn’t have to go back to the clinic for so long! It is a liberating yet scary feeling since I got so used to the chemo regiment and my cancer state, that I can’t imagine being away from doctors for so long. Though, it doesn’t mean i can eat anything I want, or use all the creams/supplements I used before the chemo. My doctor asked me to wait till PET scan results.

Valentine’s day was nice and snowy. Dimitris’ parents flew in from Athens and we spent a quiet evening catching up. It is so great to have them here, in NYC since I know how much they cared and worried about me. On Sunday night, February 15, we all watched the 40th anniversary of SNL. I wish I felt a bit better to take them places, but my recovery is dragging on and even though I feel better and better, those changes are so marginal, almost nonexistent. Every side effect either takes longer to recover or comes back in an exaggerated form, f.ex. I developed mouth sores this time that took a while to go away and one was as big as my cheek, making it impossible for me to eat or drink for a few days.

On Monday, January 16, I finally had energy to catch up with our wedding manager in Malta. Martina is a lovely and very upbeat and energetic person, I wouldn’t have wished for a better event planner. We spent 2.5 hours discussing the wedding details and for the first time since I started to plan my wedding, I felt pretty comfortable that we will make it right and grande, just the way I want it.

On Tuesday, February 17, I went to visit Raffaele Mollica and see how the work on my wig progressing. The wig looked just fabulous but it needed another week to be completed. I can’t wait to wear my own hair again.

The post The Notes of a Cancerous Girl. February 2015 first appeared on SvetaNYC.

Hospital’s 5 day chemo stays are depressing, but even more saddening are hospitalizations between the chemos. I added to my collection two extra stays by now, and I was going to do anything to make sure not to end up in the ED again. The “between the chemo time” should be about fun, family and recovery.

On Sunday, I scheduled an appointment with David’s Bridal to check out some dressed for my mom. I am quite skeptical about the dress’ choices for bride’s mom in Belarus, so we could at least buy something here and forget about it. My mom and I had a really good time at the salon, we pre-selected a few dresses online, accepted the sales-person recommendations and indeed left the salon with an order.  After the Salon, we walked to Harold Square, Macy’s & Victoria’s Secret to do some lingerie shopping.

Since I’ve completed my 4th chemo, I was having very strong chest pains, different from familiar dull ones that doctor earlier classified as “lymphoma-breaking chest pain”. The pain was sharp, persistent and originated near the heart, making it hard to breathe and at times, I had to lean over to take a full breath of air. I told Orel and after a blood work on Monday, I went for an echocardiogram. When I followed up with Orel a few days later, she said that there was nothing on my echo, except that my blood clot got smaller. In a few more days, pain stopped.

I am continuing to take Lyrica twice a day (I am prescribed to take every 8 hours, but I never wake up at 6 am) and am feeling less numbness in my fingers, it is incremental but still. Another new thing I recorded after the 4th chemo is a loss of eye-lashes and mild inflammation of my eye-lids. Before I started the chemo, I was told that I would loose all hair that I want, but none of what I don’t want. Frankly, whatever body parts I shaved before going into my 1st chemo, have never seen any hair again (woo-hoo), I lost the hair on my head after the 2nd chemo and now, after the 4th, I am slowly but persistently starting to loose my eye-lashes. I know they will grow back, but lack of them makes me look even sicker and sadder, which I am.

On Tuesday, after congratulating my dad with his 60th birthday, I went to TKTS Ticket Booth to buy tickets for a Broadway show. A few days prior, my mom finally decided to go back to Belarus and we bought her a return ticket for January 24. Due to my illness, I wasn’t always there to show her the city or attend shows or exhibits, so in the remaining few weeks, I was trying to do as much as possible. It is hard to attend a show for somebody who doesn’t speak a word in English, but we went to The Phantom of the Opera and she really loved it.

January 7 is the Orthodox Christmas and we planned to go to a main Russian church on the Upper East Side after completing my blood work. Usually, nurses at the clinic are very skilled, however, sometimes I get a nurse who would either poke my port in a wrong place so it wouldn’t give blood, or make it so painful, that I wouldn’t want to go back. This time around, the nurse was nice but she lost my vials so after returning from a church, I got a call from Orel to come and re-do my blood test. So much for professionalism and Christmas celebration! Needless to say that it was one of the coldest weeks so far with -18C and Arctic wind.

Anyway, after my second blood draw, my friend Charles (Renee’s husband) reached out to me and we agreed to meet up at Maison Kayser on 74th and 3rd Avenue. I haven’t seen him since the day he told me that Renee would no longer participate in clinical trials, and the doctors decided to let her die in peace. It is strange, how even short-term circumstances bring people so close together. Renee and I share the same ward during my first chemo and I feel as if I’ve known Charles for many many years. He lost his wife and I lost a friend, but I was glad he didn’t loose the perspective, he was just as sharp and entertaining as always.

It was also a perfect night to make love to my lover. First time in 114 days! Fight with cancer took all the energy and desire away, but it made my love for him grow stronger in so many different ways!

Friday – Tuesday, January 9-13, 2015.

5th chemo! I finally start to see the light in the end of the tunnel. All I want right now is for it to pass as quietly, painlessly and fast as possible. I was admitted at 4 pm and placed in the same ward as during my 1st chemo – room 201 in Central. My roommate, Queenie N, turned out to be a doctor at NY Presbyterian. She was a very lovely, high spirited lady with a very large family and a huge group of followers who kept her busy at all hours. The 10th floor opened its North Section with a nice lounge and I got another place to escape.

Blood work and access to the port was done quickly, but the results didn’t come in till later, so a nurse started the first bag of Rituxan only at 9.30 pm. Dr. J.L. stopped by to check on me and this is when I found out that my dose was increased which led to a very prolonged state of neutropenia after the 4th cycle.  I don’t like this kind of games, I prefer the doctors to tell me in advance what they are planning to do, not to find it post factum on my own.

My first 24-hour pack was placed at midnight at the speed of 43.3 ml/h, with such speed I won’t be released till Wednesday. However, upon my request, all following 3 packs were sped-up to 55 ml/h and I was swiftly released on Tuesday at 1.00 pm.

I was given the same medication as all previous times:

• 6 am – Lyrica, Colace, Nexium
• 8 am – Valtrex, Bactrim (Fri and Mon), Zofran, Prednisone
• 2 pm –  Lyrica
• 6 pm – Warfarin 2.5 mg or 3.0 mg depending on my INR
• 10 pm – Senna, Ambien, Lyrica

On Monday, I had a consultation with an ophthalmologist. A few days prior I had another curious case of distorted vision (seeing things as through running water) and Dr. wanted me to check my eyes again. Apparently, it was a classical case of a ocular migraine and I was advised to wait till the end of chemo to do anything about it, since cancer treatment could be a cause of it.

Otherwise, the 5th chemo passed the way I wanted it – quiet and without too much stress. First day and night after release still remain difficult for me to cope with – nausea and sense of fear never leave me.

Wednesday – Thursday, January 14-29, 2015.

No matter how many times I have the “first night” after the hospital, it never gets better. It has never got worse than the very first night, but for me, no matter how mentally prepared I am, it is always bad. Frankly, I don’t have any reasonable explanation why I am so scared to be at home, but this feeling is always present. The best option is to be able to fall asleep for a few hours and then deal with the fears and severe bouts of nausea early in the morning. My chemo dosage remained high and expecting WBC to drop and cause neutropenia, I decided to take it slow and easy, stay home as long as I could, don’t work out and spend time with Kuzya.  And this is exactly what I did.

First few days I experienced the same side effects as before:

• nausea, and i am already on 3 anti-nausea medications. However, this time it went away after 2 days
• chest pain, unlike all previous chemos, the pain was mild and very manageable. I hope it is a good sign
• severe tissue pain. It lasts for 24-36 hours but makes life unbearable. I already described it before, but it feels like my body, both tissue and bones, between the head and mid hip is raw and aching. My doctor said it was the side effect of Neupogen but the pain starts even before I do my first shot
• lack of appetite.
• general fear and feeling of misplacement. It is hard to explain but I walk around my apt as if I’ve never been there before, I am afraid to touch things or do anything.
• Cough and runny nose

On Wednesday night (1/14), 24 hours after completing chemo, and for the following 7 days I give myself Neupogen shots in the stomach. Since doctor removed Vincristine from my chemo treatment and I started to take Lyrica, my neuropathy is getting better and I almost regained the feeling in my fingers, so it does make a bit easier to administer shots.

On Friday (1/16), my mom friend’s daughter, who also lives in NYC, came to visit us. I guess, she didn’t know I had cancer, so for 4 hours I had to wear my wig, pretending that it is my own hair, and play a wonderful host. Gosh, 3 days after chemo, it was hard. After they left, I felt exhausted. I do believe that I learnt cope with the post chemo days better, since I recover sooner and sooner, but I couldn’t push my boundaries.

On Saturday (1/17), as scheduled, my period arrived. Since I started the chemo, my period became almost non-existent and I worried that it would stop all together (as I have read online) for some period of time or for good. So, every period is celebrated as Christmas, with joy. However, this period was very heavy, I couldn’t stop bleeding day and night for 3 days. I am taking blood thinner, Warfarin, so every sign of abnormal bleeding should be reported to Orel or Dr. J.L. But as timely as it started, in the same timely manner it stopped a few days later.

Second stage of post-chemo period (day 7-14) is the time when I start feeling better but my WBC go very low and cells in my stomach, mouth and nose start to divide and re-grow. It causes repeated runny nose, mouth soars, acid reflux and anal fissures. Everything that has to do with the gastroenterology goes wrong.  I developed a strict regiment to keep everything at bay – I use Biotene and Magic Mouthwash at least 3-4 times a day, follow a special diet, take at least 30 grams of fiber and don’t eat food that would cause either diarrhea or constipation and use the regular sitz bath and Diltiazem cream 3-4 times a day to ease the pain.

I was scheduled for a blood-work on Monday (1/19) and Dimitris and I did go to the clinic knowing that it wouldn’t be open due to the Martin Luther King Jr’s birthday. It indeed was closed. I don’t understand how they can schedule me an appointment knowing in advance that they clinic will be closed?! Bizarre!

On Tuesday (1/20) morning, I called Orel to confirm my appointment; since I didn’t have a single blood-work done since my release, exactly a week ago, she asked me to come and have my blood checked. After the results came back, it turned out, not to my surprise, that my WBC was at 0.2, so I was put on a 7-day antibiotic (Levofloxacin) protocol.

On Thursday (1/22) I had another blood-work at the clinic and an appointment with Dr. J.L. Since I am having a chemo-brain, condition when I can’t remember things, I borrowed Dimitris’ habit to write everything down. So every time I see the Dr. I read him my questions from my iPhone and he responds to them and every time my questions become more and more elaborate – “When can i eat raw food?” (2 weeks after chemo is over), “What is going to be my rehab protocol?” (none, I should get better on my own) etc. I gained 14 lbs since I started the treatment so I asked Dr. what he was going to do about it, on which he replied “What are you going to do about it?”. Uh, no help. I am still in a process of looking for a comprehensive post-chemo rehabilitation program.

The same evening, I had to show up in Queens Court. In April 2014, I filed a law suit in a Small Claims Court against somebody who in 2012 borrowed money from me and never gave it back. Accidentally, I bought tickets for the Mariinsky ballet ” Swan Lake” at the BAM the same night so I had to pick where to go and I chose the ballet. I hope my explanation in the Court Adjournment letter was enough to re-schedule the court appearance for another day in the future.

The ballet was amazing. It is my second time seeing “Swan Lake” and both times it was by the best ballet troupes in the World – Bolshoi and Mariinsky theaters. It was one of those performances when you sit and never look at your watch. I wanted it to never end. Exceptional presentation by Xander Parish and Oxana Skorik.

On Friday (1/23) I got a call from Orel. After each chemo, I was re-tested for Hepatitis B and this time it came back active. She wanted me to start taking a new medication (Entecavir) to keep Hepatitis B in check, and also to see a hepatologist the following week, before my last chemo cycle. On Sunday (1/25) I resumed a mild work-out, doing a few stretches and biking for 30 minutes; I stop eating after 8 pm and hope it will help me to reduce weight in the next couple months. Now, I am 148 lbs and can’t fit in any of my clothes.

On Saturday (1/25) we said hello to my mom who was flying back to Belarus. It was sad, because she was with me for almost 3 months and has been a great support and help for both, Dimitris and I. After she left, our new apartment felt too big for the two of us and Kuzya.

As per Mayor De Blasio and his meteorologists, we were supposed to get a mega snow storm on Monday and Tuesday, so many businesses, clinics and even subway were closed, it didn’t materialized but on Wednesday (1/28) I finally got my appointment with a hepatologist at the 1305 York Ave center. Apparently, I acquired Hepatitis B in childhood, perhaps after a visit to a dentist (glorious USSR childhood with unsterilized tools) but my body cleared the virus and developed a very high immune system against it, so high, according to Dr. Kumar, that I should have never been able to get the Hepatitis B again. Except for one case – chemotherapy, which wiped out my entire immune system and not once, but 5 times. Hence, the traces of virus (20<) showed up in the blood-work. She did a few more blood tests and confirmed that I would have to remain on Entecavir for at least one year after completing the chemo regiment. That wasn’t great news, by now I am taking 8 different pills daily and some of them multiple times a day, and a few more here and there. One of my biggest desires is to be off those pills as soon as possible.

Wednesday evening, my friend Jeff invited me for the high-tea at the posh Pierre Hotel. We had a great time catching up and consuming ton of sandwiches and cookies.

On Thursday (1/29) I decided to show off my lack of culinary skills and spent all morning making Dimitris kotlets. They turned out to be eatable and even “delicious” from Dimitris’s words.

Two weeks passed by so quickly and for the first time since I got sick, I was looking forward to my chemo – Last One.

The post The Notes of a Cancerous Girl. January 2015 first appeared on SvetaNYC.

I started the last weekend of November with another round of chemotherapy – my 3rd cycle. I was staying again in 10th Central, but my room, unlike on all other occasions was by the door and not the window. Everything went according to plan, Rituxan was given first (with no side effects), then four 24- hour bags (luckily, 2 last bags were speeded up to the rate of 55 ml/h) and the very last 1-hour bag. This cycle took only 95 continuous hours of chemo.

By now, I am also quite familiar with the chemo protocol. I come to the 10th floor of the NY Presbyterian hospital, nurses put me into a ward, supply me with all necessary things: robe, hospital pants, socks, paper cups and plastic pitcher, napkins and paper tissues, a branded NY Presbyterian kit with lotions, shampoo and conditioner that I can’t use anyway, special body wash and shampoo, which I must use while in the hospital, two mouthwashes – Biotene and Magic mouthwash. After I am settled, my nurse (which has another 3 patients) comes to access my double power port and installs catheters in each of them (one to administer chemo and another to draw blood). Then, s/he draws blood for test and a few hours later and 30 minutes before “hanging” the first bag (Rituxan), I am given, Zofran,  Tylenol and Benadryl. Then, everything starts rolling.

PAs (physician assistant) come to say hello, to acquire info about my stay home and any new side effects, to catch up. After meeting Marina (from Russia), Pegah (from Iran), Emilee (from Utah), Anastasia (from Belarus) and Lily (from Russia), I think PAs are the coolest people in the world. They help, assist, advise, entertain, share knowledge and do everything else what doctors do, only faster. Though, I have no complains about Dr. J.L., every time I go for chemo, he always visits me, always!

My day starts at 5.30 am when the nurse’s assistant comes to take vitals – blood pressure, temperature, oxygen and heart rate. I usually do well here, except for days when I have very low pressure (86/48 for ex.) Shortly after, around 5.45 am a nurse would come to draw blood for CBC, PT/INR and some other stuff, s/he also brings my first cup of pills (Nexium & Colace). At 7.30 am, they serve breakfast and here it gets tricky, depending on my day of chemo, I might eat some or turn my head and ask a food department person to take a tray away. I don’t complain about food, up till my 3rd chemo, I thought it was pretty diverse and well cooked, but it does get repetitive, especially when you struggle with constant nausea and loss of appetite.

Doctor’s round starts around 8 am, doctor and his entourage come, ask questions, listen for my answers, perhaps suggest something, stethoscope my lungs and stomach, check my ankles and move on to the next patient. So far, Dr. Pearse and Dr. Mark are my favorites, because they always suggest something interesting and innovative. Once, Dr. Mark glanced through my food tray and saw green tea. He insisted on switching to red tea because according to the studies, green tea helps to grow/regenerate cells, while chemo goal was to kill cells thus, by drinking green tea, unintentionally I was regressing the effects of my chemo regiment.

After the doctor’s round, I am given another cup of pills (Cilest, Valtrex, Prednisone and sometimes Bactrim). My vitals are checked 4-6 times a day, depending on whether a nurse’s assistant can find me on the floor because I like to walk around and chat with other patients, or sit in a common room. Walking is essential, I try to log 10,000 steps a day but as the days and chemo progress, I get weaker and prefer to spend my time in a chair, reading.

Lunch is at 11.30 am, early, but so is dinner – at 5.30 pm. Dimitris and mom come and go whenever they please and I rarely remain alone. It is great, because you know they really care, but at the same time, sometimes i feel too tired to “entertain” them. But I do love when they bring me all the delicious things, I developed a craving for Sneakers bars and Dimitris makes sure i always have enough change to go and fetch one from a vending machine down the hall.

In the evenings, i am given Warfarin, Senna and Ambien, if i can’t fall asleep.  I am also allowed to take a 15- minutes shower between the packs, which feels like a liberation. On Monday and Tuesdays (and Thursdays, but i am never in the hospital on that day), we have a milk-shake lady distributing different shakes to patients; every day at 11 am, we have a walking club but I never participate, maybe i should. Sometimes, we have music concerts in the common room or volunteer guitar players/singers who go from room to room and perform for each individual patient. I definitely appreciate how much effort the hospital and especially private individuals put into making us feel better.

I have to mention that 3 side effects come out straight away – nausea, mouth sores (i try to use Biotene at least every 6 hours) and constipation (30 grams  of fiber do the trick). Also, on day 2-3, I acquire a so called “moon face” when due to all the chemo and liquid, my face literally looses its shape and becomes perfectly puffy, watery and round. It does go away after about 5-6 days.

Another subject is my roommates. So far, I had a few, each and every one of them were different. This time around I got an American woman in her 60s with some sort of cancer. I said “some sort” because nobody knew what type of cancer she had since she had no medical insurance thus, no NYP doctor wanted to take her. She was treated by the hospital and whenever she had a chance, she complained about American health care, loudly wishing for a socialist regime. Little or nothing did she know about Socialism! Her other passion was TV, which she never failed to turn on at 5 am and turn off at 10 pm. Once, at 5.20 am unable to control myself, I told her to turn the TV off till the quiet hour was over, after which she accused me of being a Russian spy. She also had a weird crash on male nurses and nurse aids, always flirting and taking selfies with them. Yes, she was a psycho and I felt relieved to be released on Tuesday at 3 pm.

I mentioned earlier, that the very first night at home is a frightening experience for me – I am afraid and often in pain. It is hard to explain, but I know that if i survive THAT night, I can handle the following days. Sometime in the evening, i started to develop a tissue pain, spreading from the middle of my skull till mid hip. It felt as if my skin was reaping exposing burning meat underneath. Obviously, i couldn’t lay down or lean on anything with my body, but i had to go to bed and try to get some rest. Basically, my first night after 3rd chemo was a nightmare, despite taking 2 anti-nausea medications, I felt sick all night and kept a bucket close to my pillow. I was warn that the side effects and chemo would accumulate in my body, making medication less effective and my general state progressively worse, but one thing is to know and another thing is to live through this. But I did make it through the night.

Wednesday- Thursday, December 3-18, 2014

The terrible tissue/bone pain continued for 2-3 days and so did the nausea. By Friday, it all luckily went away. I have to admit that emotionally, the 3rd chemo was the most difficult. My PET scan showed that the protocol worked, I had no longer any desire to stay in the hospital and go through chemo all over again poisoning my body and feeling like a deadman. On several occasions I cried to Dimitris how much I don’t want to go back to the hospital and asked him to spare me from that experience. I was an emotional wreck and i guess it is because the half-way mark doesn’t mean anything. I knew the side effects, I felt worse and worse, but I couldn’t bear to go through exact the same number of chemos again.

24 hours after completing the 3rd chemo, I started the 7-day course of Neupogen injections to stimulate the growth of white blood cells. I complemented the shots with daily Claritin pill which apparently helps to subdue the bone pain. On Thursday, I went to a blood work follow up and clinic, as always, was super busy. Usually, I have to wait for 30-45 minutes but lately it goes way beyond an hour. It doesn’t irritates me but makes me sad to look at all those people. Really sad. Frequently, we encounter the same old Russian couple. They come at about the same time with us, wait for about an hour but throughout the entire time, husband or wife, rotating, is going back to the complementary food stationaries and tightly crams his/her bag with hospital food to take home: milk, yoghurt, cereal, tea, cookie, different snacks etc. It is hysterical.

Clinic has superb facilities and stuff, but sometimes, I get unlucky to have a new nurse, who would poke my port but have no blood return. I know, I went through more than just a needle poke, but every single poke does accumulate and stresses me out, so when I have to let them shove those needles more times than necessary, it is just not acceptable and intolerable. I am on a new method of remembering all the best nurses and then demanding their service upon arrival. So far it works.

On Friday, Dimitris and I had to take Kuzya to his first veterinary appointment. In Belarus, no cat would ever have to experience a doctor, but it is a must thing to do in the US. In addition, because I am a high risk patient, we wanted to make everything right and vaccinate our little kitten so I wouldn’t get sick or acquire some infection from him. So, Dimitris took Kuzya to the vet, and it was the most stressful experience for me because I couldn’t go with them and I didn’t how Kuzya would take this. Apparently, he handled it very well, vet and nurse complemented Kuzya for his good behavior and stunning looks, he was tested for FIV and cancer, given two vaccines and sent back home. He was my little hero!

On Saturday, we finally had a wig trial and fitting. We went to Bitz & Pieces with a wig we purchased from them back in October, so they can finally fit it on my bald head and style it the way I like. I still can’t tell whether I like their services or not, it is patchy. On the day they sold us a wig, they were nice and super friendly, on the second occasion when I showed up for styling, they basically turned me away because my stylist wasn’t available and they weren’t nice about it. This time around, they were neutrally friendly. Maggie who is my stylist, was neither imaginative nor enthusiastic about my wig or personal preferences. I have never worn a wig on a daily basis so I needed a professional advice, but I received none. She basically did everything I asked her to do (repeating the words of Rafaelle Mallica who talked extensively about wigs and styles with me). The final result was that I walked out of the show room with a gorgeous looking head and I felt like a movie star, no less.

For the next couple days, usually day 7-14 counted from the first day of chemo, I stayed home, nursing my neutropenia. I felt more or less normal, so I was taking cooking classes from my mom, who is a superb cook. I hope to record in a book all the dishes she prepared for us while she is in NYC, so I can later start cooking myself, a skill I lost when I moved to the US. Eastern European cuisine might not be as exotic or delicate as French, which I consider the best, but it is definitely one of the most tasty ones. In addition, on December 7, Dimitris and I celebrated the 2nd anniversary since we became a couple, so I presented him with a gift card for Greek cooking class for both of us. Can’t wait to go.

On Thursday, December 10, I had another blood work which showed that I am back to normal and can finally walk outside without a mask. The next day, I took mom to Brighton Beach, an area in Brooklyn where most Russians settled when they came to the US. I rarely go to that area because it is quite far from where we live, but also because I don’t feel particularly affiliated with people there who moved to NYC in mid 70’s and until now desperately try to preserve Odessa of that epoch, which reflects in everything – from napkins in the restaurant, to rude sellers at the Gastronom, to clothes people wear, to people’s talks, phobias and racism.  However, since my mom doesn’t speak English, I thought it would be interesting for her to come and see this part of NYC herself and … see the Atlantic ocean from the beach for the very first time. Gladly, she loved the area and she definitely felt at ease and in her own pond there. I guess she got tired of having only one person to converse in her native tongue, myself, in the last 2 months. After that trip, my mom goes to Brighton beach at least once a week to buy Russian food.

Saturday, December 12. I have to admit that since 2002, the year I moved to the US and NYC, I spent only one New Year’s and Christmas in the city. The other 12 years, I took time off from work and traveled the world, celebrating everywhere from Paris to Rome to Montreal etc. And since my move, I have never had a real Christmas tree at my house. Due to my illness, we weren’t going to travel anywhere, so it was a great opportunity to go shopping for christmas ornaments, lights and a tree itself.

Mom, Dimitris and I, as a group, went out to the 68th street and 2nd avenue to pick a tree from a Christmas tree stand. Of course, I picked the fluffiest and best looking tree for $260-280, which I thought was excessively expensive. The vendors tried to show me some other trees but they were nothing compare to the first one – love from the first sights, as they say. One tree was visibly bald which I loudly announced to the vendor and he made a joke whether I was taking about him (he was a bald man) or a tree,  in response, I lifted by hat and showed him that i had no hair under my fur hat. He looked at me and told the tree-keeper to wrap the first tree we chose and deliver it to us for $200. Having cancer has its advantages too, I have to admit that i was very touched by a kind gesture of this random man.

It is lots of fun to decorate a free, especially as good looking as ours. Dimitris and I have a tradition to buy a Christmas ornament from every place we visit, from Bermuda to London to Santorini to Minsk, so half of the tree was decorated with the travel memorabilia while another half was with regular ornaments we bought at Marshall’s. It turned out to be very beautiful and luckily for us, Kuzya paid little or no attention to the tree.

The following 6 days, my mom and I walked around the city with a camera. I took her to the Union Sq to visit the Christmas street market, we visited the Grand Central Terminal and NY Public library as well as Madison Sq Park and Herald Sq with its shops and Macy’s  flagship store. And of course, we couldn’t skip the main Christmas tree of the country – at the Rockefeller center. New York is a fantastic city, and it was singing and sparkling like a diamond during the holidays.

Friday – Tuesday, December 19-23, 2014

My 4th chemo cycle! I can’t say it was the hardest one in terms of side effects, but it was one of the most emotionally draining. For one, it wasn’t the first, the middle or the last, it was the 4th! Then, even though, I was happy to get my period (yey, I am not yet retiring from bearing children), but I was extremely physically tired and emotionally supressed.

From early morning on Friday, I was packed and ready to go to the hospital, but I haven’t gotten a call from the admission office till about noon and when they called, they asked me to come at 3.00 pm. When we arrived at the appointed hour, we ended up waiting for another 2 hours in the reception area, because the room wasn’t ready. Of course, we live 3 blocks away and knowing that, the hospital should have taken it into consideration, but they didn’t, so by the time we checked-in, I was pretty upset.  After check-in, the nurses and PAs need at least 4-5 hours before they can start administering chemo, thus, the later you start, the longer you stay in the hospital, and sometimes it measures in days.

The neuropathy has become unbearable, getting worse and worse with each chemo, that is why Dr. J.L. decided to take Vincristine off my chemo treatment all together, and add Lyrica to alleviate the side effects. When I asked whether it would decrease my chances for remission, he said that I have completed 3 full chemo cycles, and the rest is just marginal treatment.  Later, by interrogating my doctor,  I found out that besides removing one drug, Dr. J.L. increased the dosage of two other drugs on my regiment. Lesson – always ask your doctor direct questions, otherwise s/he won’t volunteer any information.

As I mentioned, my mental state was not there. My computer accidentally caught the cord and fell on the floor crashing, which isn’t a big deal, but for me it was a tragedy. Luckily, Dimitris took care of everything and a day (and many hundreds of $$) later, it was return to me as if new.

There was another accident that happened to me at the hospital that I can’t stay quiet about. On the very first night, a woman from the ED was placed in my ward; she wasn’t an onco patient. Her name was V. Acosta and from day one, she was disrespectful and rude to everyone. One night, at 2 am, she was watching hip-hop videos on her phone using speakers; I got up and told a nurse that it prevented me from resting. The nurse, kindly informed the patient that it was a quiet hour and she had to use earphones or step out of the room if she wished to continue watching her videos. The moment, the nurse left the room, Acosta turned to me and said “You, bald-headed bitch! You don’t want me to watch the videos? I am going to beat the fuck out of you, you, bald-headed bitch. I don’t care if they arrest me again, I will beat you till I kill you.” So much for my sleep and for the hospital’s obligation to keep me in “safe and secure environment”, I knew, it was a valid threat. A few minutes later, Acosta called her sister and using speakerphone, asked her what she should do to me, and her sister recommended her to throw me out of the window into the river. She repeatedly said many inappropriate words, going as far as ridiculing of my “cancer look”.  She stayed on the phone for about an hour and I recorded their entire conversation.  Obviously, I couldn’t close my eyes after but I was also too frighten to get up and seek assistance so I waited till the morning. Then, I walked out of the room and reported everything to the nurses and hospital security. There was no way i could go back to that room again.

I won’t go into details, but I spent a day – 12 long hours – sitting in a common room on a bench, waiting for the hospital to find me either another room or move Acosta from my room. Sadly, NY Presbyterian did nothing to resolve this situation and later, I found out, that the Patient Care staff wasn’t even informed about the situation. I understand that the facilities and room availabilities are tight, but to allow a cancer patient in treatment to sit alone pretty much in the lobby for over 12 hours, isn’t acceptable by any measure or stretch of imagination. Only around 5 pm, somebody rolled in a reclining chair so i can finally lay down, and i was on my 3rd day of chemo – time when i feel very sick.  It was an awful mishandling of the situation by the hospital and a lesson to myself.

Wednesday – Monday, December 24-29, 2014

This time around, in order to fight side effects, I decided to distract myself with different activities and visits from friends. Christmas time in NYC is wonderful. On Wednesday, while on his trip to New York, a classmate and a good friend of ours, Onur came to visit. I feel uncomfortable telling people about my illness, and this is one of the reasons why just a handful of friends know about it. Hosting Onur in a wig and not telling him the reason, made me feel like a protagonist of a bad off-Broadway play. I am so grateful for his understanding and attitude, for lack of pity and silly words of encouragement. There can be nothing worse than “Be Strong” or “This is all mental”.

On Thursday, Christmas day, my mom, Dimitris and I went for a walk and casual photoshoot to the Central Park. I wasn’t feeling well, but since my mom came to NYC in November, we haven’t spent any time as a family, together. I’ve lived in NYC since 2002 and have been to Central Park a thousand of times, but every time I go there, it unfolds new and more beautiful parts. That was a wonderful, liberating walk, that two hours later exhausted my energy to zero. At night, we had a very nice Christmas dinner, Christmas that Dimitris celebrates but we don’t, since we are Russian Orthodox.

On Friday, after the blood work at the clinic, Dimitris and I visited The Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Greek Orthodox church near our house and headed for the Diamond District on 47th st between 5th and 6th avenues. A wonderful season of exchanging the presents was coming and Dimitris has learnt that “Rings and minks were my favorite things, along with gold and diamonds”.  However, while checking out pinky rings for me, we were really looking for pearl earrings for my mom’s birthday on December 27. Diamond shopping can enervate even the most tolerant and patient person; considering that I was only 3 days after chemo and wearing a face mask (try to breathe in that thing), two hours were more than I could spend looking at the jewelry, however, I have to admit that the pre-Christmas rush had died out and we weren’t hassled by the sales people at all.

I guess my mom didn’t expect the birthday extravaganza at all!

I spent the rest of the week recovering from chemo, unquestionably feeling its deadly grip on me. Chest pains got less severe but at times they became more prominent and sharp targeting heart area; second week always evokes mouth soars (and that week they were plenty and particularly painful under my tongue), sore throat, runny nose and fissures – everything that evolves around fast dividing cells. Diet, which can mitigate or alleviate some of the side effects, is hard to follow because one day an apple would be just a fruit and the very next day it is cause of diarrhea. Each recovery time is a new learning process in itself.

Another aspect that I wanted to bring up is appearance. I don’t have vanity but I always cared about my looks, actions, attitudes, achievements and cancer made a new person out of me, a monster. Of course, I continue to extensively read and learn new things, but many matters that were important disappeared. I gained 12 lbs (6kgs) because I let myself go, not because chemo made me gain weight (though my doctor said i would). Every night I go to bed next to my pretty much new husband, and every morning I wake up as a monster in a pool of sweat (i still have drenching night sweats) with chemo-dry mouth and sealed eyes. He doesn’t deserve it and neither do I. Sadly, my attitude isn’t any better.  I continue telling myself the moment I am in recovery… when i feel better….I will take care of things, and I will, but at the moment, I am the overweight, ugly, chemo-reeking woman. How sad!

Gladly, we have a stationary bike at home and on Sunday, I climbed for a 30 minutes of easy hill ride. I am not sure whether it was a work-out or something else, but the following day, I was coughing, sneezing, fevering and by the evening developed temperature of +38.5C. I know the rules of engagement, when the temperature goes above +38C, I have to go to the ER or at least call the doctor. After a brief phone consultation with an on-call doctor at the clinic, I took tylenol and went to bed. I really hoped to avoid going back to the hospital, but that is exactly what happened next.

Tuesday- Thursday, December 30- January 1, 2015

Next day, Dimitris and I went to, what I thought was, a regular blood work, but after checking my results, Orel told me that it was too dangerous for me to stay home and I had to be admitted to the Emergency Department. My WBC dropped to 0.1 and I was hospitalized with neutropenic fever. I know that while I have no WBC, my body doesn’t produce antibodies to fight any infection, however, I didn’t know that when somebody is neutropenic, the body might not even register an infection until it is too late. I would hate to spend a New Year’s in the hospital but this is exactly what was going to happen.

At the ER, a doctor ordered to take pretty much every test (blood, urine and nose culture) to identify the source of infection. I was too naive to think that nasal swab was just a gentle tap inside my nostril, apparently, the q-tip-like swab was inserted into my nose and then… after breaking a barrier…  it went all the way to my brain, or this is how it felt. I was also ordered an X-ray and EKG. After administering an IV, magnesium and potassium (40ml), doctor ordered me an antibiotic every 8 hours.

I was at the ER from noon to about 7 pm, in a private room and I can’t say enough praise for the doctors and nurses who cared for me. They were attentive, knowledgable, very professional and at times entertaining. My nurse Mark was a temp nurse at the New York Presbyterian Weill Cornell ED, and most of the week he worked as a helicopter nurse upstate NY, from where he transported the patients to as far as a hospital in Boston, MA. Incredible people with fascinating jobs!

Room on the 10th floor Central opened up in the evening and we were immediately transferred upstairs. I knew that I would have to spend at least a few days in the hospital (culture for infection takes 48 hours to mature, so the results couldn’t come back before) and I was, mildly saying, upset. There are ways to vent the steam and of course, I could get mean with nurses and hospital staff, or with Dimitris (my poor love-man, he already suffered so much from me), but I sent Dimi away and spent the rest of the evening crying.

On December 31, doctors continued following my blood results and general health condition. I didn’t have fever for two days but my WBC still stayed at 0.1 and they waited for it to climb to at least 1.0 before considering my release. The level of hemoglobin dropped to 7.4 and Pegah recommended a blood transfusion (=>8.0 is when transfusions are required). I have never had it before, but because I felt unusually dizzy and light-headed, I agreed on one pack of blood (usually, there are two). They say, despite the match and special blood-purification system, people still developed allergies or side effects from blood transfusions, and since I was a newbie, I was at risk to develop one. Gladly, it all went smoothly.

My roommate was a nice, quiet, intelligent, Russian-speaking (which made her a good conversation companion for my mom) and very interesting middle aged woman from Georgia. When we weren’t reading, we were talking. Frankly, I did expect a bit more action on the floor for the New Year’s Eve, however, it was all quiet. Dimitris came around 10 pm and together, dozing off, we waited for the ball to drop. At midnight, in the darkness (because my roommate was already asleep), we cheered with candies and wished each other a Very Happy and Healthy New Year. A few minutes later, we walked out to the lobby to wish Happy New Year to the nurses but the station was empty, everyone was busy.

Unlike in the US or other Western countries, the New Year’s in the USSR was the biggest holiday. I guess partially it was because Christmas doesn’t come till January 7, but also because religion was almost non-existent. So, i grew up celebrating the Eve with grandeur and presents. We even have a saying “Your new year will pass the same way as you celebrate its beginning”. Yeah, not a fabulous start of 2015!

On January 1, after checking my blood results, I was told that my WBC was still at 0.7 and despite me feeling well, the PAs were reluctant to let me go home. However, I was so desperate to leave that Pegah called Dr. J.L. and he let me go under the condition that I would continue taking antibiotic for another 5 days.

Here is the end of my 2014 blog. The year started out great in India with Dalai Lama, I got engaged in May and we got married in July. 7 weeks we spent traveling in Europe and collecting all the wonderful memories with our families only to come back to the US and forget all about them because of a terrible diagnoses I was given. Months from September till now were the hardest ones and a definite test for our young family, but if we withstand this, we will go on forever. I didn’t have time to reflect on events that already happened or make plans for the future, I was simply given my cancerous boots and asked to walk and walk and walk. And I walk….

Preliminary Medical bill for December is $91,427.13 ( as per 1/30/15)

The post The Notes of a Cancerous Girl. December 2014 first appeared on SvetaNYC.

Later, I would know that for me, each chemo cycle breaks into several stages:

• 120 hours of chemo, when I am in the hospital and feel progressively tired but actually ok.
• immediate post-chemo days, usually it goes for 4-5 days when I feel “dead”, as I call it. Time, that I spent on a sofa, with a New Yorker or a book by Lyudmila Ulitskaya, counting every hour to pass. Dark, painful days and mostly sleepless nights.
• “day 7-14”, as doctors call it, usually overlaps with stage two. This is time when my WBC (white blood cells) are the lowest hence, I am neutropenic (autoimmune and should stay away from sick people), develop horrible soars in my mouth, sore throat and fissures as well endless dry cough.
• Day 15-21 a “week of bliss” or some sort of “normality”, when pains aren’t as often or strong, when I am able to go outside and eat anything I want. I actually do feel “normal” those days, but very tired.

And then, I go for another chemo cycle and everything starts all over again.

Saturday – Thursday. November 1-6, 2014

We were finally leaving the apartment in Queens and moving to a new one on the Upper East Side. It is a very stressful experience, with or without cancer, but Dimitris planned and organized everything so we didn’t have to worry much. New sofa-bed was already waiting for us at the new place and all we did was pack everything and then unpack everything, which took us exactly two days.

On Sunday, my mom arrived from Belarus and I knew that with everything in place, it will get only better. Next following days,  I spent familiarizing her with the area and NYC in general.

On two occasions we visiting the NY Presbyterian hospital – to have a check up with OBGYN doctor (post IVF procedure and a general follow-up) and an ophthalmologist, to make sure that my vision was indeed unimpaired by the chemo therapy. There is a fascinating, yet unfair, correlation between doctors and patients in NYC. In September 2014, before I got sick, I called the same OBGYN office to make an appointment, and the first available one was in March 2015. Since I became a patient at the NYP hospital and officially acquired an “MRN” (medical record number), every doctor at the hospital became available to me at pretty much 1-2 week notice, if not sorter.

Since I felt more or less normal, I took my mom to Central Park (which is only a few blocks away), Rockefeller Plaza, The Times Square, Wall St and Battery park with its view of Statue of Liberty.

She accompanied me to another visit to Rafaelle Mollica, who by then seeded my hair and selected only ones that were usable for a new wig, to take measurements and choose the additional hair for the wig. Wig weaving is a long and very meticulous work, so we agreed to meet in about two months when most of the work should be completed.

There was another idea I was working on for over a month now  – acquiring a kitten. Dimitris and I recently got married, moved to new apt and I was just diagnosed, kitten was a way to bond us even closer, we were able to give a little fur ball a secure place to leave and he, in return, could become my last therapeutical resort, when chemo drugs tirelessly worked on destroying my body.

I reached out to many shelters in and outside of NYC, picked a kitten, wrote a 800 word essay, filled out a 7 page background check questionnaire, reported our income, but to no avail.  Apparently, kittens under the age of 9 months aren’t allowed to get adopted on their own, they come in pairs, and we weren’t looking neither for a pair nor for a grown cat. So, i reached out to Russian Reklama online and found a beautiful 7 week old Scottish Fold kitten in Philadelphia. We bought him the same day and the next day, designated driver brought him straight to our apartment. We called him the Duke of Rothesay, in line with his Scottish blood, but at home, he is simply Kuzya or Kuzma Petrovich. He conquered all hearts of our family and became everyone’s joy.

Friday – Tuesday, November 7-11, 2014 

I was called in to the hospital for the 2nd round of chemo therapy. This time, I had a beautiful room with a river view and my roommate turned out to be a 75 y.o. interesting but totally deaf nun. Let’s call her Lorry. 11th child in her Irish family, she grew up in poverty, saw her brothers and sisters get married but for herself she chose God and monastery. Lorry wasn’t an onco patient but got here via ER after breaking a leg. She had a pacemaker nevertheless her favorite foods were pork chop, steak and whiskey. My only problem was that she couldn’t hear hence she spoke so laud that being next to her was barely possible. She also couldn’t memorize my name so she called me Samantha and for some reason she thought I had breast cancer, I guess she watched too much of “Sex and the City”.

My treatment went according to the plan, this time around i haven’t had any problems with Rituxan, completed a pack within a reasonable 3-4 hour range and was hooked on a cocktail pack almost immediately. I experienced pretty much the same side effects as before – chest pains after the second cocktail pack, nausea, lack of energy, even though i continue to “walk my way to recovery”.

This time around I was placed to 10th Floor South so i had to get myself acquainted with new nurses, and even though Renee stayed in our previous ward, I came to visit her and her husband Charles every day. While i was home, she started a new experimental drug and we hoped it could be a turning point, but when I saw her after a two-week break, I could tell that she deteriorated gravely. She was constantly on oxygen mask, her leukemia spread to 90% of her blood, she was fighting but cancer already placed a claim on her life. Renee was such a wonderful story-teller and listener, after spending months and months in the hospital wards, she remained kind and generous to everyone; bright, intelligent mind was still there but she could no longer talk. She even made an effort to scold me for buying a kitten instead of adopting one.  I cherish every moment we spent together because soon she was gone. She died on November 21, a week after i saw her last. Doctors decided that there was nothing else to be done and they let her die in peace. She was a woman capable of changing people’s lives by simply passing by them on the street, and I am very grateful that life gave me a chance to meet her and know her for a bare month. I am still crying for this loss and i don’t know if i ever stop. May she rest in peace, she very much deserved it.

On Monday, I acquired a very different type of chest pain, and knowing that it is better be safe than sorry, i reported it to the PA. After they administered an echo, I was sent for the cardiac MRI which showed that i had a blood clot near my heart caused by the port. Here we go, on top of everything I also had a blood clot. Fantastic! Now, i had to take blood thinners in addition to all other drugs.

By the end of the 2nd chemo, my hair was falling off at the rising speed so it made sense to shave it all off, which we did in the hospital bathroom using Dimitris’ shaver. The last, 6th, chemo pack was done at around 10 pm on Tuesday and i was allowed to go home with the following list of medication:

1. Aluminum hydroxide-magnesium hydroxide 30 ml – every 6 hours
2. Bactrim DS – mon, wed, fri
3. Ducosate sodium 100 mg – every 8 hours
4. Esomeprazole 20 mg – once a day
5. Loratadine 10 mg – once a day
6. Senna
7. Valtrex 500 mg – once a day
8. Lovenox shot – once a day
9. Warfarin 5 mg – once a day

Dr. J.L. also decided not to give me a single Neulasta shot but put me on 7 daily self-administered Neupogen shots; apparently, since the entire dosage enter your body incrementally, it has less side effects, unlike Neulasta when a 10 day worth of drugs shot in a system at once. Also, due to blood clot, i must be regularly tested for INR (international normalized ratio) and was advised to watch out for any type of bleedings and oh boy, they came!

Wednesday – Monday, November 11-17, 2014

Slow recovery from the 2nd cycle of chemo wasn’t as scary as the first one, I knew and expected some side effects, the most common – chest pains, cough, general weakness, nausea – and luckily, none of the other “unplanned” side effects occurred. The day I come back home from the hospital is the toughest one. I am simply afraid to be away from doctors, so that evening, before going to bed, I finally took Lorazepam, an anti-anxiety medication, and had more or less quiet night, without any crazy thoughts of hurting myself.

On Wednesday, 24 hours after being released from the hospital, I started to administer Neupogen shots and continue them for 7 days. On Thursday, a friend of mine from Beirut, Jihad, was visiting NYC so I asked him to come over to my place. We were very good friends when I lived in Lebanon and it was a joy to see him. Until now, very few people knew about my illness, but I couldn’t play games with Jihad, since he came all the way from Lebanon. Cancer is a private matter and no matter how many relatives or friends you have, only a few would understand what you are going through. We, cancer patients, don’t need people’s pitiful words of apologies, empty pathetic ramblings or worse, words of encouragement or orders “to be strong and most importantly, positive”. Useless words, efforts and waste of time for everyone, and great annoyance as well.

Jihad’s attitude was the opposite and i didn’t regret for sharing with him my bad news. I was also happy that he could finally meet Dimitris.

My cat Kuzya, grew up in 5 days that I wasn’t home and I genuinely enjoyed spending my time playing with him especially since I was too weak and cautious to interact with people. However, cats (pets) could also be dangerous for cancer patients, so I washed and sanitized my hands every time I touched Kuzya.

On Friday, I went for my regular blood work to the clinic, but on Saturday, I developed, what they thought a GI (gastrointestinal) bleeding, a very dangerous situation for somebody who is on Lovenox and Coumadin. From the side effects and sever rectal pain, I knew that it was perhaps an anal fissure and not GI bleeding but any open wound was a danger since my WBC was about to drop and i could easily get an infection. Dimitris took me to the ED (Emergency Department) at the NY Presbyterian at noon and after spending a day at a private and very cold ward in the ED, we were sent to onco floor 10. Sadly, just 4 days after I completed my chemo, I was back to the hospital.

This is what chemo does to you, it indiscriminately kills every single cell in your body, some slow, some fast. Hair, stomach and mouth linings go fast, visible and painful, the rest of drugs is slowly accumulating in your body, making you sicker and sicker after each chemo. They say that working out, eating healthy would prepare you for the following chemo, so you would better tolerate it, and i try to work out, walk, eat healthy, but frankly, i don’t know whether it actually changes anything. The most I can do is to have as ‘normal” life as possible. My hair is long gone and i am not sad to let it go, since there was no other choice (and shower takes only 5 minutes, where can you beat it?!), as for entire digestive system – awful mouth sores, acidic reflux and terribly painful bleeding anal fissures – I prepared myself for the worst but I couldn’t imagine how bad it would be. In my case, only time and continuous care pull me through those days and nights. Biotine and Magic Mouthwash work pretty good for the mouth, good diet and some stomach coating medications – for acid reflux, but nothing works for fissures, they take the longest to heal and the most painful to have.

So, I was admitted to the hospital for 3 days in order to establish whether i really had Gi bleeding or it was some local rectal bleeding, and to make sure i won’t get infected from either. In the end, they thought it was hemorrhoid, which turned out to be untrue, so I was given a box of witch hazel pads and sent home on Monday, November 17.

Tuesday – Friday, November 18-27, 2014

It was great to be back home and spend time with my mom and Kuzya.

On Thursday, I had a blood work at the clinic which showed that everything was back to normal. The chemo makes your WBC, platelets, hemoglobin very low on day 7-14, but then it slowly starts climbing up, recovering its ground and fighting for life, my life.

On Friday, I finally had a recommended by Dr. J.L. appointment with another NY Presbyterian doctor – colorectal surgeon Dr. H.Y. Apparently, annal fissures, which caused my bleeding, is a very common problem and side effect of chemo therapy (at least R-EPOCH regiment). Dr.H.Y. was a very professional, knowledgeable and, super important, gentle while examining me, since I was in horrible pain. She’s given me a prescription for a topical cream Diltiazem 2% that i had to apply several times a day till my fissure heals (which, due to the nature of chemo, couldn’t be foreseen), i was recommended to eat at least 30 grams of fiber a day, drink 8-10 glasses of water and do my regular sitz baths.

In the afternoon, I took my mom to the MoMA in Midtown (on Fridays, they offer free entrance from 4 pm – 8 pm). We spent about 3 hours exploring different exhibitions and I hope my mom enjoyed it. I have been to MoMA many times but I still prefer the collections of Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris.

Another exciting thing that happened to me that day was that I got my period. Chemotherapy causes premature menopause and infertility, so it was reassuring to know that your ovaries are still working.

On Monday, I was scheduled for another blood work and a PET scan (Positron emission tomography), my first, after I started the treatment, to see whether the prescribed chemo regiment was the right one and the cancer was indeed going away or diminishing. Since my port was already accessed at the cancer clinic, I went two floors down to the Radiology department for my scan, and asked the technician to administer radioactive drug (tracer) via the port and no via the vein. A lady, who gave me a tracer, behaved very strange, not only did she giggle and made faces all the time, but also she accidentally let go a syringe with radioactive tracer so it flew across the entire room. I am not sure, but i think she was high on something.

I was given a sugary drink to sip on for about an hour and then a nurse brought me to the scan room. It was freezing inside, I asked for a blanket and guess what, I was told that it would get warm once I am in the scan machine?! To which I replied that for $7,295 that I pay for a single PET scan, they might as well offer me a blanket and don’t be rude. Incredible! As for the experience inside the machine, it is important to close your eyes and keep your thoughts occupied with something else, otherwise, it is a very scary claustrophobic experience (and I am not afraid of tight spaces). PET scan takes about 30 minutes to complete and after I was done, the stuff didn’t even offer me a bite to eat or sip of water knowing that I had nothing for almost 18 hours. Next time, i am going back to 1305 York Ave facilities.

Good news came the same evening when Orel called and told me that my scan looked “fantastic”. The mass currently measured 2.4 x 4.7 cm, previously measuring 5.9 x 9.4 cm with SUV max 3.7, previously 10.9 where SUV stands for standardized uptake values. I was reassured but i knew that I had 4 more chemos to go and it was dreading.

On Thursday, we introduced my mom to one of the oldest American traditions – Thanksgiving. I invited my girl-friends Sophie, Elena with her mom to join us for a very festive, easy and delicious evening. It was a great way to finish my 2 weeks of recovery before heading for my 3rd cycle the very next morning.

Preliminary November bill (as of 1/11/15) – $147,462.82

The post The Notes of a Cancerous Girl. November 2014. first appeared on SvetaNYC.

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Orel, Dr.J.L. assistant called in the morning to schedule my power port installation for Saturday, October 4.

At 1.00 pm, Dimitris and I had an appointment at the Ronald O. Perelman and Claudia Cohen Center for Reproductive Medicine at the New York Presbyterian Weill Cornell with Dr.D.G in regard to a potential embryo freezing (medically known as Embryo Cryopreservation). We met with the doctor and discussed our the options. As a lymphoma patient to undergo the chemotherapy, I have about 25-35% chances becoming infertile after the treatment. Chemo would age my reproductive organs by approximately 5 years, cause an early menopause and with a 2 year waiting period after the first chemo, if everything goes well, I was looking at a 37 y.o version of myself with 42 y.o ovaries. It isn’t a terribly bad situation, since I still have about 60% chances to conceive a child without any difficulties after. However, things could become more complicated if I have to undergo another chemo or other treatment – there would be no more time to harvest and freeze eggs.

Dr.D.G. explained the procedure – daily hormone shots administered at home with every other day blood work and transvaginal ultrasound, then a trigger and a small 15 minutes under anesthesia needle surgery to retrieve the eggs. Since I have a partner, my husband Dimitris, the eggs would be fertilized with his sperm and embryos would be frozen. Apparently, frozen embryos have higher chance of survival than frozen eggs. We were given a package of documents to look through and Dr.D.G. administered a medical exam, took culture and ran multiple blood test. Before leaving the Center, we were scheduled for the next day 9 am class on how to administer hormone shots at home.

Dimitris and I had many things to consider. First of all, whether I wanted to delay the chemo treatment by 2-3 or more weeks. Secondly, we always thought of having children and even discussed it before getting married. Now, we faced a possibility of never having our own biological child or we could make a decision which would give us a chance. Personally, I wouldn’t mind raising an adopted child or a baby of my husband, but I knew that Dimitris always wanted our children to resemble me and this was a deal breaker. I was going through cancer but Dimitris was equally involved in everything, he might not felt the physical pains but he was by my side every step of the way and even though it would make sense to be selfish and start getting chemo immediately, to rid myself of cancer, I decided that I would take a risk of delaying the treatment and going through the IVF, so in the future i won’t have any regrets for letting my chance slip. Of course, I was annoyed and a bit afraid of administering ton of hormone shots on daily basis and then to undergo a surgery, but it would also buy me a few weeks to get healed from the port installation and more importantly, it would give me time to get myself together. Everything unraveled so quickly, I had no time to stop and comprehend the situation as a whole.

Dimitris left the decision up to me and i have decided to proceed with IVF.

At 3.20 pm, I had an appointment for my Echocardiogram, which we had to wait for an extra hour and later we met with Orel who checked on my bone marrow biopsy and gave me a requested flu shot. My bone marrow biopsy was healing nice, it occasionally hurt but was very bearable. We also informed Orel of our decision to go through IVF so that Dr.J.L. could delay chemo and make according planning too.

Thursday, October 2, 2014

Promptly at 9.00 am we were back to the Fertility clinic to attend an hour long presentation on how to administer the hormone shots at home and what to expect after. The doctor explained what two types of medication I will be injecting myself with (Gonal-F RFF Pen and Menopure), every day from 7.00 pm – 10 pm window for about 10 days, then I would “trigger” myself 36 hours prior to the egg retrieval surgery. Every other day, I would have to come to the clinic for a blood test and ultrasound to see how my eggs develop and grow. Ideally, doctor wanted to get no less than 10 eggs 17-20 mm each, but because I was under contraceptive for 3 years, it could take me a few extra days to grow the follicles to the acceptable size.

At 10.00 am we had to be back to NY Presbyterian Cardiothoracic Unit for my two week post surgical biopsy follow-up.  Dr.J.P. saw me, examined the outside of the cut, since it was still covered by the sticky straps, and explained how to remove them  – soak with a sponge in the shower and peel them off. It healed very good and he was happy with the outcome. Indeed, 13 days after the surgery I felt perfectly fine, except for a 5cm scar, which I hope will eventually diminish.

Then, we ran back across the street to the Fertility clinic to speak with an advisor and the nurse who would be responsible for my daily tests and hormone intake. Together, we penciled down the initial plan for the medication and retrieval date, but we knew that all will depend on how fast I produce and grow follicles since my case wasn’t an ordinary one. I took another hormone test which showed that I can start my medication immediately the same evening and after 3 hours in the pharmacy, negotiating between our medical insurance policy and urgency in acquiring the right medication immediately, we managed to find a compromise and start the injections on the same date.

My first 3 days regiment was 225IU of Gonal and 150 IU of Menopure with a follow up blood test on Saturday, October 4. Orel also reached out to advise me to start taking 60mg Prednisone (steroids) to have me running with one pill of Nexium to keep my stomach at bay.

The ball started to roll!

Saturday, October 4, 1014

Friday was by far the most peaceful day in the last 2 weeks, I felt much better, I had no more wounds to heal and it strangely reminded me of what normal life is like. In the morning, we received a Fedex box from the pharmacy with all the necessary medication and it was one big box!

Since we got part of the prescription the day before, I started the injections the night before and it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. There is an physiological barrier when you think about injecting yourself with a few needles, but once i’ve done it and it didn’t feel bad, I was comfortable doing it again without fear.

I did as Dr.J.P. told me – soaked up the biopsy cut and peeled off the rest of the bandage. Cut, under the bandage, looked better than I expected, it looked practically healed, and it didn’t hurt anymore. It took me 2 weeks to finally say that this part was behind me.

Considering that I already went through biopsy and healing, I was looking for the power port placement as another necessary procedure but a minor one. We were scheduled for 11 am on Saturday, October 4, but we received a call in the morning asking us to come ASAP since they had a cancelation. We were already up so we just took a taxi and headed straight to the NY Presbyterian Department of Radiology.

I was admitted and set up for the surgery. Nurse took a urine test and blood pressure (they really like taking blood pressure all the time) and had the Dr. of interventional radiology D.L. speak with me about the procedure. Apparently, hospitals in the US stopped using direct veins as a way for the chemo over 20 years ago. Now, they installed so called “power ports” with one or two cushions and a tube, 30-40 cm long that goes straight through the vein. In this case, doctors don’t have to poke your veins all the time, they can attach it safely to the port and medicine would go where it is needed. The port can stay in place for up to 4 years and be removed once it is no longer needed. I was getting a double port to administer multiple medications at once, it was a size of a walnut split in half.

The scary part was the placement of the port. I was expecting at least full anesthesia, but it was all done under sedation and topical anesthetic. Indeed, I was sedated but it doesn’t mean I was unaware of what was happening. We chatted with Dr. about how we met our spouses and we had a lot in common. His wife was his high school classmate and my husband was my post grad colleague at Oxford. He was of Chinese descent and I lived in China for some time, so we shared our experiences. However, I truly wish I was under the full anesthesia. Indeed, after the initial topical shot I felt nothing, but the feeling of him stuffing me like a Thanksgiving turkey was hard for my brain to process. I didn’t feel pain but I felt the port being pushed around and the tube going through the opening made on my throat. I can’t explain why, but physiologically it was very hard to accept.

Surgery took about an hour and after I was brought back to the recovery room, we waited for Dimitris to come back from his meeting with a realtor (a few days earlier, we decided to move from Queens to the area near the hospital on the Upper East Side in Manhattan and were already looking at some apartments). I didn’t feel well after the procedure, my neck was hurting every time I would swallow, I felt dizzy and  I was in definite distress. I haven’t felt as bad even after biopsy, and the port placement was supposed to be just a “procedure” not a “surgery”. I was given an instructions not to take showers for 3-5 days, take Tylenol if i have minor pain but that was it.

I won’t hide – that day was the worst day so far. Not only was I in terrible pain, but also I was running in my head the procedure itself, feeling the port shuffling above my chest chamber. If I held myself calm and alert until now, I literally broke down in tears and fears by the time we got home. Eventually, I took Oxycodone (Tylenol my ass) which took the pain away and made me relax.

It did get better as the days went by. A day later, it was slightly better; on Monday even more. I continued to take Tylenol during the day and Oxycodone at night for two more days. I have read a few blogs about people’s experience with the port and it seems to vary, some felt absolutely nothing and took it as a routine procedure, but others were in pain for weeks. I guess I was somewhere in the middle, but I hated the whole thing. I feared and hated it.

Sunday – Friday , October 5 – 10, 2014

Since we started the IVF program, every other day from 7.00 -8.30 am I had to show up at the Fertility Clinic for the blood test  for HL (Luteinizing hormone) and  FSH (follicle stimulation hormone), and ultrasound. Sunday morning, we took a taxi to the hospital, did all the exams and after scheduled an appointment with a realtor to see a few apartments Dimitris saw the day before. I frankly didn’t like the apartments  – New York City, and especially Manhattan is a real estate horror story. If you like the apt, most likely you can’t afford it, and if you can afford it, it will be rat-infested studio in a basement of a pre-war building somewhere in Alphabet city.

To deal with cancer, I have to have a happy apartment – sunny, spacious and preferably with a balcony. However, our search was just starting so we had our hopes high. We saw one apt on the East 79th street that we both liked so we decided to negotiate and see whether there is a possibility to move in asap.

There was another issue I had to deal with – to have my mom come from Minsk and help me deal with the disease. Since we came back from the honeymoon on September 1, Dimitris took time off from work and was still on hold due to the delay in treatment. Because cancer came suddenly and painfully (which is a strange occurrence since lymphoma is usually a quiet settler), there was no question of him leaving me alone at any time. My mom agreed to come to New York and with all the necessary papers and a letter from the NY Presbyterian Cornell we filed for her emergency visa.  Even though her initial interview day was January 14, 2015, I managed to expedite the date and by Thursday, October 9 she left the US Embassy in Lithuania (Belarus doesn’t have official relationship with the US) with a multiple entry US visa valid for one year. Knowing how hard it is to get a US visa from the former Soviet Union countries, I am forever grateful to the US consul who speedily granted my mom a visa – having her here will definitely be a great emotional, physiological and physical help for me and Dimitris.

On Monday, October 6, 2014  Fertility Dr.D.G. called to update me on my test results and asked me to add another medication to my list, an antibiotic. So, as of now, i am on 300IU Gonal, 150IU Menopure, Azythromycin, Nexium and 60mg Prednisone a day, with or without Tylenol PM which I still took whenever I had pain.

Dimitris was also asked to run a few tests with our PCP Dr.M.M. and have his semen examined. Here is the worst part – as an egg host, I have to go through daily blood tests, double/triple daily hormone shots, ultrasounds and a surgery or two; as a sperm donor, he has one blood test, takes 10 days worth of antibiotic and jerks off twice in a private room filled with porn – once for the sample and once for the actual fertilization. Now, please tell me where is the justice in this world?!

While dealing with the fertility issues, Orel kept in touch with me worrying that my condition might worsen due to the delay in treatment. Apparently, I had quite a bit of liquid collecting next to my heart and it started to get more and more apparent as the days went by. It was getting more difficult to breath and sleep too. However, she gave me clear instructions about when to stop and rush to the hospital, so as of now, I am keeping a very close look at my condition. It would be a terrible loss of time and opportunity to spend 10 days trying to grow your eggs and not being able to retrieve any, but my health is still more important. As long as we knew what we were dealing with and what to be aware of, we thought we were playing safe.

On Thursday, October 9 we went for another blood test and ultrasound. My port surgery was healing very slow and painful but it was a nice and sunny day in NYC so we felt like staying in the city for longer and checking out wig shops. In the end, I will still need one. Of course, I had a perfect idea of having my own beautiful waist long hair cut out and wig made of it, but apparently, it is cheaper and better to buy a pre-made wig. As a person who never dealt with it, it was an eye opening experience – the quality of hair, the type of hair (European vs Indian etc.), the color, the fit, the care and million other things. I was overwhelmed with the information and had to think it over before actually making a $2,500-4,000 per wig purchase. Luckily, my insurance covers the “cranial prosthesis“.

We also did a bit of window shopping – we stopped at Cartier to check out the watch I wanted and then at Van Cleef & Arpels to see and compare their iconic clover necklaces, also one of the top things on my list to buy. Things happened so fast that last 3 weeks seemed like a blur, a painful dark vacuum without an exit. Now, I finally started to wrap my head around the idea that my life will change, but hopefully, only for some time.

I am a big reader, but since I was diagnosed, I spend most of my free time watching TV. I finished watching The Tudors and started The Borgias. Luckily, there are plenty of options and I find it therapeutic. Eventually, I will go back to my New Yorker magazines that have been piling up for the last 2-3 weeks, but now, I discovered the pleasures of historic dramas and TV series, like “Red Band Society” and “How to get away with murder“.

This is a picture of my port and biopsy taken on October 8, 4 days after the port placement surgery. I am still having a hard time getting used to it because it does hurt. Ok, it doesn’t hurt as much as it was on the first day and it definitely gets better, but the cut near the neck isn’t improving much. The swelling and bruising slowly going away, but i still have hard time moving my neck or swallowing.

Saturday, October 11, 2014 

Day 10 of the IVF treatment and we had another blood test and an ultrasound at the Fertility Clinic. This is an important day because at this stage, doctors could say the quantity and size of my eggs. We were hoping to have at least a dozen upon retrieval. Doctors could also tell with a certainty the exact day of retrieval which help us organize everything at home and prepare for the chemotherapy.

Apparently, I had 14 eggs size 10mm or over, which was great. The retrieval wasn’t yet set but I think Thursday, October 16 would be the day and let’s pray for it. Carrying so many eggs and administering so many hormone shots can make any woman go crazy, but I think we are handling it just fine. I am super bloated and feel like the skin on my stomach is reaping, because it is stretched beyond its natural state, but I still manage to negate the mood swings, tantrums and bitchiness of hormones. I guess it is the thoughts of cancer keep me focused and reserved. So far, it is working for us.

As of today, i will start administering another shot – Ganirelix Acetate– to prevent immature ovulation. As if two shots weren’t enough, this one turned out to be a painful one.

After staying in confinement for almost 3 weeks, Dimitris and I decided not to forego our tickets for the New Yorker Festival and went to attend the talk by Malcolm Gladwell about liars and their catchers. I first read Malcolm Gladwell in my Literature 101 class in Baruch College. It was a part from “The Tipping Point” and it blew my mind off. After that, I have been closely following his art and of course, since he lives in NYC, it wasn’t the first time I went to see him speak. Indeed, he is a very talented, well-read, articulate, intelligent etc person and a morning with him, and a few hundred others, was a treat. The talk was about liars like Bernie Madoff and their catchers like Harry Markopolos. I won’t go into details, because I simply can’t, but the resolution was that people are bad at spotting lies or liars, but those who are good, aren’t necessary very likable people to be around. The conclusion Malcolm Gladwell made was he would rather be the Madoff than the Markopolos.

At 1.00 pm we had an appointment with a wig specialist at the Bitz and Pieces. After visiting 4 different wig shops in the city, this one looked like our final stop before we could make a decision and purchase one. The salon’s staff and his owner, Mr. Barry Hendrickson were very attentive to Dimitris and I. Judging by the pictures of the celebs on the walls and Barry’s wide knowledge of cancers and treatments, I guess this is the place where famous and cancerous come together. We explained what we wanted – as close to my natural look as possible – and they came up with some options. It is indeed fun to try different looks and styles, but we settled on one wig and purchased it on the spot. It would require some fitting and styling but it was made of natural hair (sadly, not european) and it looked very close to what I wanted. Price tag $3,050.

 Sunday – Thursday, October 12-16, 2014

The first egg retrieval date was set on Wednesday, October 15, and even though everything progressed as planned, doctors decided to postpone the IVF procedure by a few more days. Indeed, since I was on contraceptive for a few years, my hormones were suppressed and needed extra time to grow to the “accepted” size. As of Monday, blood works and ultrasounds were done daily to monitor the LH level and the size of the follicles, and I was asked to add another shot – Ganirelix– to prevent premature ovulation.

On Tuesday, October 14, Dr.J.L. asked me to come for the ontological follow- up since we last saw him on September 29. He wanted to run some blood work as well and check on me and my condition. For the very first time, they drew blood from my port and I have to admit that it was scary.

I was brought up to a chemo-administration room with 6 chairs – four of which were taken by two chemo patients with bags attached to the polls and by two other people who accompanied them. Dimitris stayed in the reception area since I didn’t think I needed him for my blood test. People were chatting with each other and I felt very uncomfortable. Being on hormones (it finally kicked in) and having your chest cut a few times in the last 2 week, don’t bring the best out of me. I didn’t ask for a separate room but I insisted on closing the curtains and keeping me in some kind of isolation from a man sitting next to me, who unstoppably gulped Coke and coughed, all at the same time. The nurse was super attentive and after examining my newly planted port, she very carefully proceeded while explaining every step of the way. First of all, she gently cleaned the area around port, then she asked me to choose either outer or inner port for use, then told me to breath normally and look away from the port and after the count of 3, I was supposed to make a deep breath while the needle would go in. Indeed, the feeling was strange but because of her kindness and gentleness in administering it, it wasn’t bad. They say, I will eventually get used to it.

After the blood test was done, we waited for Dr.J.L. for another hour. When he finally saw us, he was in his chirpiest spirits as always. He quickly checked on my lymph nodes (I don’t have any) and my tongue. The blood results already came back so he said that because I started taking Prednisone, my cancer diminished and my blood count was normal so I was cleared to proceed with  the IVF. We asked about the results of the bone marrow and apparently, everything was fine. But the main question I had on the tip of my tongue was the stage of my cancer – until now, I didn’t know what stage of the mediastinal lymphoma I was – apparently it was the 2nd since they found mass in both sides of my chest – large on the left side and small but growing on the right. However, I had plenty of other questions written to ask him. Some of them were trivial, nevertheless:

• Contraceptives, when and should I use it after the IVF and during the chemo: Yes, I should take all measures not to get pregnant during the chemo and 1-2 years after.
• Vitamins, should I take any special supplements or vitamins during my treatment to smoothen the side effects? No, I can take a regular Multivitamin such as Centrum but I was not recommended to take anything additional since it can influence the effect of chemo drugs.
• Acupuncture and massage. Should I get a prescription for a medical acupuncture and/or reiki massage to diminish the pain/nausea/vomiting/tiredness/depression and other side effects common for the chemo patients? It should definitely be an option as an alternative method but it wasn’t necessary. I later found out that my medical insurance covers both.
• Botox and skin products like Retinol and Retin A. For the last year, I started doing the Botox injections in my forehead and using the skin peeler Retinol, and I wanted to know whether it was wise to continue doing it or stop for the chemo treatment? I should stop in order to avoid unnecessary complications or infections cause by the Botox injections and products like Retinol. However, I could continue using any other over the counter cosmetic products.
• Prednisone and its side effects. I started taking Prednisone on October 2 (60 mgs + Nexium to cope with stomach problems), however, I developed the metallic taste in my mouth as well as insomnia. I tried taking Tylenol PM or other over the counter sleeping medication, but to no avail. I started to skip one night of sleep, exhausting myself by 4-5 am only to be up at 6.15 am for my 7 am blood work and then sleep all night through the night after. So, it is slowly becoming some sort of schedule. Apparently, it was normal since Dr.J.L.didn’t offer any additional medication to help me fall asleep.

After Tuesday and Wednesday tests and ultrasounds, it became clear that my eggs were ready to be removed, and trust me, I do feel like I am carrying an army of babies – my stomach is swollen and bloated and my mood swings go from sweet to sour in a span of minutes. On Wednesday night, I was given an order to “trigger” the eggs by injecting my last shot – Ovidrel – to induct the final follicular maturity, precisely at 11.15 pm. According to the procedure, I have to have my eggs retrieved 36 hours after administering a shot, that is on Friday, October 17 at 11.15 am.

Thursday, at 6.30 am, we showed up for the pre-op consultation with a nurse. They took blood work, blood pressure and performed the last ultrasound. We were explained the entire procedure once again – I will be under the IV general anesthesia but without a throat tube for about 15 minutes (the duration of the entire surgery) and after 30-45 minutes in the recovery, I can go back home and expect cramps or little blooding or spotting, nothing more. Unlike most of the patients, I won’t be given antibiotic because I was already assigned for a different chemo regiment. Dimitris also got his “sperm donation” instructions which include:

• thorough shower with an antibacterial soap the morning before
• presence of an ID
• abstinence from ejaculation for 2-5 days prior to the schedule retrieval

Fairness?!

After the pre-op appointment, we went to see Raffaele Mollica – a legend in the world of wigs. I still didn’t give up an idea to have a wig made of my own hair and he was a perfect person to speak about it. Indeed, we could purchase something similar to the hair of my style but I needed a 100% natural European blonde hair. We had an 1.5 hours consultation with him and he was happy to accept the challenge. I am yet to visit him once my hair start to fall out so he can cut me bold!

Updates on my cuts: surgical biopsy is fully healed though I am afraid to touch it as it freaks me out; bone marrow biopsy cut closed up long time ago but I feel a pinch here and there when I sit down; and the port is just there, I keep stretching my neck every day to slowly place the tube in the right place, otherwise, I still feel like a Frankenstein.

Friday – Tuesday, October 17-21, 2014 

Friday. We had to show up at the 8M floor of the main NY Presbyterian hospital for the IVF procedure at 8.15 am. Dimitris and I were quickly registered and sent to our departments to get ready for the egg retrieval for me and sperm donation for him. Obviously, those two experiences can’t be compared since I had to undergo a proper 15 minutes surgery under the anesthesia and he had to go to a comfy room for some fun time.

I was checked in, my vitals were measured and IV was installed into my left arm. An anesthesiologist wanted to have another chat with me since I wasn’t a “regular” IVF client but a cancer patient. After clarifying a few questions, he cleared for the surgery.  I had to wait till about 10 am to be called for the pre-surgery and surgery. Meanwhile, the Oncological Room Unit called to confirm that they had a bed for me and I could start my chemotherapy tonight. They told me to wait for the follow up call with the exact hour to show up. It indeed was about to start today.

The egg retrieval surgery took less time and energy than I thought. After the incisional biopsy and port installment surgery, everything in the surgery room looked familiar. I came in, took my pants off and lay down with my legs straight on a special bed, I believe they covered me with a blanket since it was very cold in the room. The anesthesiologist was already administering some drugs and the next thing I remember happened already in the recovery room. Immediately, I was told that they retrieved 9 eggs which was great news, however, they had to call us the next day to inform how many of those 9 were turned into the embryos.

Dimitris came and spent about 30 minutes with me in the recovery after which I was dismissed to go home. I felt some cramps but was definitely ready to go home, since I had to pack my bags and move in to the hospital for 4-5 days.

We arrived to the 10th Central floor of the NY Presbyterian (Lymphoma and Myelonoma Oncology department) at 4.00 pm, very quickly settled into my room 201B with lucky bed by the window and nurses and PA were already working on getting me started- blood work, vitals and so on before starting the first drug – Rituximab (or Rituxan) – medicine that destroys B cells and is therefore used to treat diseases which are characterized by excessive numbers of overactive B cells or dysfunctional B cells. R-EPOCH, my treatment, would consist of one 250ml of Rituximab, 4 packs of three drug- cocktail for 24 hours each and one more pack before I leave. After 7.30 pm they received the blood results and I was confirmed to begin the first pack of Rituximab the same evening. We started at 9.30 pm.

The plan was to start at 25ml/h for 30 mins with vitals check every 15 mins. Then my dosage was increased to 50ml/h for 30 minutes and I started to have a reaction on the drug. It was already around 11 pm and I was working on my laptop and didn’t really pay attention to how I felt but when the amazing nurse Kelly came to check on me 15 mins later, she found me all covered in spots with my throat slowly closing up and preventing me from breathing. The PA was paged and he ordered for the chemo to stop immediately. I was immediately given more Benadryl and other drugs to get me back to normal and I slowly recovered in next 1.5 hours.  A pack that usually is emptied within 2 hours took me a whole 9 hours to complete – at 5.30 am I was finally left alone. It was a sleepless and scary first night, but the good thing was to know that we have to go slow next time and once the pack is over, there aren’t long lasting direct effects.

Saturday. As of now and for the entire stay at the hospital, my vitals and blood would be taken at 5.30 am and I was given Senna, Colace and Prednisone 100mg. Kelly came back at 5.30 am to take my blood test and after the visit from the doctors, I was allowed to start the second part of R-EPOCH – a combo of Vincristine (Vincasar PFS), DOXOrubicin (Adriamycin) and Etoposide (Toposar). Four – 24 hours packs in a row – 96 hours of unlimited chemo at 43ml/h rate, who wouldn’t want that?! The side effects of the pack are constipation, nausea, lack of energy, mouth sores but I was given all other medication in advance to beat the side effects – Senna and Colace for stool, Zofran for nausea, Biotene and Magic mouthwash to wash my mouth every 4-6 hours. First day, I was obviously tired due to lack of sleep, but I stayed very active and positive, seeing that I wasn’t experiencing any side effects yet – drinking plenty of water, walking the hallways with Dimitris and chatting with people were my own additions to regiment.

The same morning, I received a call from the Fertility clinic and they informed me that out of 9 eggs they retrieved, 3 were empty, 3 were undersized and 3 were fertilized and frozen as embryos. We had 3 babies in tubes! However, the nurse said that doctors would try to grow the small eggs for another day to see whether they can fertilize more and would call tomorrow to confirm. The more the better, but we were happy with 3 too.

Sunday. Second night at the hospital was slightly better, since I got about 4 hours of sleep. I still felt good and had plenty of energy but I definitely developed constipation and was given laxative MiraLAX. In addition, I drunk a glass of prune juice and a glass of papaya juice (since long time, I discovered that papaya fruit does miracles to my stomach). At some point I developed almost a warning fever 37.9C with 110 heart rate but after getting back to bed, my vitals went back to normal. At 11 am I was taken off the first 24 hour pack, took a shower and was hooked back on pack #2.

I have to mention that had a very “interesting roommate” from Montenegro with a very large family who always sat by her bed. When she was alone, she would curse and scream at the nurses on every occasion, at some point even for not liking somebody’s voice. She had the 4th stage of lymphoma and she was bed ridden but only for the time her family was around, the moment they leave, she would order and consume the entire lamb all alone. I never saw a sick person eating so much food. By chatting with her, I realized that she was either disappointed with her life, depressed or simply a mean person and she didn’t have any reasons to be – she was in the best hospital, getting best treatment and her entire 25+ people family was there for her. People are so incomprehensible.

I am still scared to share my diagnosis with people, even friends, so only 4 of my closest friends in NYC and some at home in Belarus know that I have cancer. Sophie, Elena with her mom and Jeff, showed up to keep me a company. It is very therapeutical to have them around, even for 30 minutes.

And yes, we got another call from the Fertility Clinic, they managed to save and fertilize one more egg. 4 eggs is 25% better than 3 eggs. We were very happy.

Dimitris stayed with me till very late, he definitely feels lost and lonely in our apartment and I saw how much he didn’t want to leave me, but tomorrow, after 7 weeks of honeymoon and 7 weeks of taking care of me, he is finally going back to work. It kills me to let him go as much as it kills him to leave me, but after a few more days, we will be together again.

Monday. Another sleepless night because a new roommate moved in at about midnight, she was having a hard night and so did I. Despite taking all the preventive medication, chemo finally got to me – at 7 am I developed a dull chest pain and I immediately let the PA Lily know. She administered the EKG and after comparing it with the one they had on file, it looks like this pain is the result of chemo breaking my lymphoma in pieces. If this is true, I can tolerate it for as long as I have to. Today, they added some more medication for me – Bactrium 160mg (antibiotic that treats different types of infection caused by bacteria), Allopurinol 300mg (to decrease levels of uric acid in people who are receiving cancer treatment) and Valacyclovir (to slow the growth and spread of the herpes virus so that the body can fight off the infection).

I still stay pretty active, walking around and having my fitbit work for me, however, I can definitely see the side effects start to creep out – first came weakness after standing for 30-45 minutes, then sense of mild nausea from smelling cooked salmon, but so far, no bleeding mouth soars since I wash my mouth every 4-5 hours. I also got my first bowel movement today, first in 3 days! It is very manageable and I hope it will stay this way. On the good side, Dr.J.L, who apparently doesn’t come to the floor often, showed up to check on me which surprised the entire Onco department and made me feel very special. According to him, everything looked great and frankly, after 4 days in the hospital, I myself realized that I was the healthiest onco patient on the floor, I have no complains.

My new roommate, Renee, turned out to be a wonderful woman. She is 75 y.o. and for the last 2.5 years she has Acute Myeloid Leukemia, a decease which is not treatable, but requires continuous blood and platelets transfusion simply to prolong life. We spend hours talking to each other and I knew that I acquired a friend, she is bright and high spirited despite the fact that she spends most of her life on the hospital bed. I couldn’t have wished for a better encounter.

Tuesday. Finally, with help of ear plugs and sleep mask, I was able to get 6 hours of sleep. My schedule remains the same and very busy –  5.30 am wake up for blood and vitals, pills, breakfast, some work out, change for pack #4 (my last cocktail pack), chat with Renee and floor attendants, Dr.J.L. came again to check on me?! At first, I thought I would go mad from boredom at the hospital, but I barely have any time between routine things and some exciting things that are happening here. For ex. today we had a 1.5 hours musical performance by two musicians (piano by Natasha Paremski and cello) from London Philharmonic.

And tomorrow, the 10th Central has The Nourishing Kitchen cooking classes. I hope to be released tomorrow, so unfortunately, I won’t be able to attend.

I also spoke with the social worker in regard to home aid in case I need some. At the moment, neither Dimitris nor I know how I would feel in the next couple days to few weeks, so we wanted to make sure to get all necessary information and be prepared to hire somebody to stay with me at home till my mom comes.

The best news of today was that we found an apartment in Manhattan on 69th St and 3rd avenue, in a beautiful neighborhood and only 3 blocks away from the hospital. We finally signed a lease and are ready to move in on Oct 30. I couldn’t have been happier and I know I should thank Dimitris that all those things came true, he is the one who did the leg and paper work to secure a better place for me to be. Along with the apartment, came tickets for my mom – she is coming on November 2.

Wednesday – Friday, October 22-31, 2014

Wednesday. Last day of chemo and I was anxious to go home. My cocktail pack ran out at noon and the nurses immediately hooked me on Cyclophosphamide – last of 6 drugs that I was supposed to receive as my R-EPOCH regiment. I got to admit that every “change of pack” procedure is quite ceremonial – nurses come dressed in, what I call, “ebola suites” in groups to match the pack to a right recipient, every their move is calculated, choreographed and precise; by the 3rd chemo cycle I have learnt all the details of each procedure.

Cyclophosphamide, which ran for about an hour, made me really dizzy so I crawled back in bed. When the pack was empty, I slowly packed my suitcase, checked-out with the nurse, got my discharge medication list and left for home.

I have to thank everybody on the 10th floor at the NY Presbyterian for the care and support they gave me, for the knowledge and great attitude they shared with me throughout 6 days I spent there during my first chemo treatment. I have learnt a valuable lesson that cancer diagnosis is frightening, life-changing and to some extend an unacceptable thing, but I have met people whose diagnoses were deadly, but they continued fighting to the end, exploring every mean, experimental drug or even chance. Sadly, their stories won’t be heard by others.

Dimitris was at work, so I took a taxi home alone and tried to settle in our apartment. Now, looking back at the first day and especially night at home, I have to admit that they were the scariest and most difficult hours I have had. Even though, I had a list of medication to take, I was very confused about when and what to take. The list went:

1. Allopurinol 300 mg once a day
2. Bactrim DS Mon, Wed, Fri
3. Docusate Sodium every 8 hours
4. Esomeprazole once a day
5. Prednisone 60, 40 and 20 mg on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd day after chemo (since I was on Prednisone for over 3 weeks, I had to get off it slowly, decreasing my daily dosage)
6. Senna once a day
7. Valtrex 500 mg once a day

As the evening progressed, I became more and more anxious about being at home and not at the hospital where help can come at any time. I was warned that the real side effects of chemo would start after the discharge and I thought I was prepared, but in reality, I was terrified. First came chest pains, from the middle of my chest they started to spread to every chest cavity, getting more and more severe. I went to sleep around 11 pm but couldn’t relax because I thought it would die of heart attack. Then I started to hallucinate, I tried to wake my husband, thinking that our apartment was on fire and this is exactly what I saw – a room filled with smoke. At 2 am I got up because chest pains became unbearable and immediately vomited, luckily the anti-nausea medication worked for the rest of the cycle. Chemo started to show itself in its ugliest and I wasn’t ready. In pain, fearing the darkness of the night, unable to wake my husband and feeling utterly alone, terrible thoughts of suicide kindled in my mind. I clearly remember the track of my thoughts, I knew what I was facing and how many people went through this before me and got better, but I was also very aware that for some reason I couldn’t go through this and ending my life seemed like the only way to free myself from the horrors of cancer.

I didn’t commit suicide but i will remember that night forever.

Thursday – Friday. Since i am writing this 2 months after my first chemo, I dont have a detailed recollection of the events, but I hope I have a good general snap shot of what followed. First 3-4 days after the chemo, I am feeling “dead”. It is a condition when I can’t really tell what hurts because besides chest pains, I don’t really have “pain”, but I feel very VERY sick. Those days I try to stay home, visit my doctor for the blood work and read… and I count hours, because the more time passes, the better I feel. I am grateful for a direct correlation between one and the other.

Thursday. I was scheduled to take Neulasta shot (to bring my white blood cells back to normal) on Friday, and due to its main side effect such as a severe bone pain, I was advised by the PAs at the NY Presbyterian to start taking Claritin the day before, on the day and the day after the shot. Apparently, the ordinary Claritin had a power of diminishing the side effects. Barely made through the day, nausea and lack of appetite became my best friends.

Friday. At 9.00 am, I came to the Dr. J.L. office for blood work, follow-up appointment and a shot. I was in definite state of distress and after hearing about hallucinations and thoughts of suicide, Dr. prescribed me Lorazepam 0.5mg, an anti-anxiety medication. All other side effects seemed pretty normal to him. Orel administered a Neulasta shot and we were free to go.

At 10.30 am, I had an appointment with Raffaele Mollica – the wig master himself- at his studio. I decided that it was the right time to cut my hair. I thought that seeing my long beautiful hair fall would be too traumatic for me, so I took an initiative and let Raffaele cut it in order to make a beautiful wig for me, partially made of my own hair.

The same day, a good friend of mine from Oxford, Abdossalam, was visiting NYC. When I was diagnosed, he was one of the very few people I contacted because he is a great friend AND he is doing his PhD in cancer research, so I really looked forward to seeing him. We met up on the Columbus Circle and had a delicious lunch at the Time Warner Center. He really liked my uneven and shy pixie haircut, but guess what…. I had cancer and i made the first step to fight it, so I felt bold.

Orel called me later and ordered me to start taking antibiotics and constantly measure temperature; apparently, my WBC (white blood cell) count came back very low and Dr. was afraid I might catch an infection, so for the next 5 days I added antibiotics to my list. Later I found out that my WBC dropped to an extreme 0.4 level (normal 4-11) and stayed there for almost a week.

I won’t hide that the recovery from the first chemo, or likely, the post side effects of first chemo were the most severe, petrifying and painful. The Neulasta shot gave me a moderate bone pain. I label it “moderate” because online I read some horrifying stories of “Neulasta’s side effects” and even though pain slowly went through every single bone on my body, as if counting them, I felt it could be worse. Perhaps Claritin indeed worked.

On Sunday,  I started to feel numbness and tingling in my fingers – neuropathy. It is the weirdest feeling when your fingers loose their sensitivity and you no longer can control them. Now, two months later, neuropathy consumed all my fingers to the extend that i can’t button myself, type, cook, feel cold or hot or open a face cream jar. I am trying to live with it but i am aware of my “disability” pretty much at all times. I describe it as if I had prosthesis instead of my real fingers. Not only are they numb, but also they hurt, all the time.

Another side effect was severe acid reflux; it went to a point when no matter what I ate or drunk, even water, i would have spasms in the back of my jaws as if I was eating a sour apple or suck on lemon. My stomach was totally messed up. I was prescribed Nexium and in the long run i think it helped.

Monday. We got a new apartment, so as soon as i started to feel more or less capable of doing things, I spent time packing the house and organizing things. One of the strangest and scariest side effects happened to me that evening. I was scanning some documents for several hours and after I was done, i turned TV on and found out that I can’t see the screen. At first, I thought my eyes were tired from the paper work, but then, I looked around myself and realized that about 50% of my vision was gone. I was home alone and it was after 6 pm and despite not seeing the phone screen, I managed to call an on-call doctor who told me to immediately go to the ER where they would administer an MRI to see whether cancer spread into my brain and most likely do a brain biopsy too. By the time I hang up the phone, vision returned. I started doubting the chemo protocol assigned to me, what kind of drugs should i consume to lose vision? Was cancer treatment worth an ability to see? For the next week, my vision came and went a few times eventually returning to normal.

Tuesday – Friday. Blood work follow-up confirmed a very low level of WBC, and my doc was hoping Neulasta would finally kick in, which it did, on Friday. Meanwhile, the rest of the week, I spent packing, sanitizing the apt and slowly recovering. My appetite returned, though my sodium level dropped so I was asked by Orel to stop drinking water, which I drunk about 4 liters a day, and switch to Gatorade.

Even though, I was diagnosed in September, October was the month when I had my IVF, first chemo therapy, first side effects of chemo. It would turn out to be one of the hardest months for me but now, it is finally over. Those moments, hours and days are finally in the past.

October medical bill is $93,314.66

The post The Notes of a Cancerous Girl. October 2014 first appeared on SvetaNYC.

The following notes aren’t going to be my typical travel diary but day-to- day journey through the doctor’s appointments, moods and thoughts while dealing with the disease.  I used to skip news about cancer, considering it irrelevant to me since I came from a family with no cancer history and thought it would never affect me and here I am, 34 y.o. young and healthy female with a 9.4cm x 5.9cm x 8.5cm and growing mass inside my chest.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Sharp and pounding chest pain came around noon when I was on the 6 train going uptown. Just like that! I was standing in the train, waiting to get off at 86th street when I felt my heart got squeezed by iron tweezers.  At first, I thought it would pass after a few minutes as it did so many times before, so I walked out to the street to get some fresh air, I even followed up with my appointment, but as the day progressed I grew more and more out of breath and anxious because pain failed to subdue. I honestly thought I was having a heart attack, so after coming back home, my husband, Dimitris, urged me to email my PCP Dr.M.M. and tell him about my symptoms and seek his advice.

Dr.M.M is always fast to reply and he told me to take some of the anti-inflammatory (Naproxen) which he had prescribed for me a few weeks earlier and painkillers (Hydrocodone/Acetaminophen) to help me overcome the night pains. He asked me to follow up in the morning if I don’t get better. I didn’t know then, but that night was the last quiet night I had before everything unrolled.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

I woke up with the same chest pain as the day before and it was clear to me and Dimitris and we can’t wait any longer so we came to Dr.M.M. office for a consultation. After examining me and identifying abnormal sound in my left lung, he suggested that it could be some sort of lung infection (pleuritis) which made my lungs swell and press against the heart causing chest pains. Dr.M.M. took 5 tubes of blood for testing and scheduled me for the chest X-Ray at Park West Radiology on W 57th street.

In the evening, Dr.M.M. called to say that X-ray showed a mass in my chest and I must do a chest CT scan with IV contrast first thing in the morning. While pain was getting worse and worse, my doctor’s urgency and concern made us realize that we weren’t looking just at the lung inflammation, it was something way more serious.

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Dr.M.M. emailed us a reference for the CT scan first thing in the morning and we managed to get an appointment at Park West Radiology at 11.00 am. At that point I could no longer handle the pain without painkillers so I took one Hydrocodone before heading out. Suddenly, my dad called on Skype.

I moved to the US in 2002, leaving my family behind in Belarus. I was always an independent person and after coming to New York, my parents remained dear and very much missed, but practically played the role of the board members without voting rights. I never hidden any facts or life events from them (except for a few, which they would perceive dangerous), but until present day, I have never been sick. On top of everything, last year my dad lost his wife to stomach cancer, a cancer that slowly and terribly ate her alive. She lasted 18 months, traveling from Minsk to Freiburg Hospital in Germany (for what was an illusion of a better medical treatment) every 3-4 weeks, but to no avail. I couldn’t not take this call and the moment my dad saw me on the webcam he knew something was up. I had to tell him about the last few days, describing less of the pain but more of the effort everybody made to get to the bottom of my case and diagnose me as soon as possible. It was a 3 minute chat but it was enough to make my dad very worried. I meant to keep my parents as unaware as possible but it was too late now.

We arrived at Park West Radiology on time for my CT scan. I changed my clothes and was guided to the CT room. The technician inserted the IV and ran a CT scan before using the contrast. After the first time, he came back to the room and injected contrast into my IV (painless) which felt like warm liquid spreading around my veins from neck to, strangely, my genitals. After he finished administering contrast, he asked me to lift my hands up which was something I couldn’t physically do…. But I did, sweating and in pain, in order to get the best possible scan. CT scan took no more than 10 minutes from beginning to end, so around 11.30 am Dimitris and I walked out and headed back home to wait for the news from Dr. M.M.

It is strange how little of the world exist when you are in pain or your thoughts are concentrating on one and only one thing. I was in pain and I was worried but I knew that time would resolve everything. Dr.M.M. called, he didn’t email this time, and asked me to make time and come to his office at 5 pm. He said that he got the results of the CT scan and he had to share them with us. Just from a very brief conversation, I knew it was very serious.

Dimitris and I headed out to his office and met him at the appointed hour. Dr. M.M. had a few clients before us but he took us right away and sat us in his room. He looked VERY concerned and when your doctor is worried, that is a bad sign. He explained to us that they found a mass inside the left chamber of my chest. According to CT scan, it was 9cm x 8cm x 6cm, a pretty large one. However, the CT scan couldn’t tell exactly what it was and neither could Dr.M.M.

I asked him for the preliminary diagnosis but he kept quiet, saying that i must see a specialist and perform biopsy analysis of the mass in order to ID the disease. Of course, he could throw a few ideas here, but he wouldn’t do it, I guess in fear to scare us even more.

Dr.M.M. recommended to see a cardiothoracic surgeon for a consultation and suggested to speak with the Cardio department at the New York-Presbyterian Weill Cornell hospital. When we got home, we researched a few doctors at NYP Cornell and planned to call them early the next morning.

Did i think at that moment that my life was about to change? No, I still hoped for the better, I still thought it was just an infection.

Thursday, September 18, 2014

After another anxious and long night, Dimitris made a call at 9 am. After explaining the situation, the assistant told us to come and we would be seen by Dr.J.P. right away. And so we did, we headed to 525 East 68th street, NYP Cornell main hospital.

We were accepted immediately but spent about an hour in the exam room waiting for the doctor to come. We brought the results of the CT scan along with the CD and blood work, so the doctor had time to evaluate the images and made his own conclusion of the situation. There are no words to describe my physical and mental state at that point, I was a mess and I needed some words of reassurance, both from my husband and from the doctors.

Nurse came to check my blood pressure and take some notes, and Dr. J.P. showed up a in a little bit. He asked me about my chest pain and said that he examined the CT scan and would want to offer us two options in order to ID the nature of the mass. First, I could undergo a surgical Left Chamberlain Biopsy to remove a piece of the mass for pathologist’s evaluation and it could be done the very next day, or I could try to schedule an appointment with a Radiologist for the needle biopsy which would be less invasive but carries only 60-70% chance of success in identifying the origin of the mass. At that point, I was ready to do everything and we agreed on the surgical biopsy to be performed the next day.

After we finished with the finance department to make sure that my insurance and paper work was acceptable, I was led to the surgery prep room to have EKG and blood work done, as well as to have a consultation with the anesthesiologist who would explain the whole procedure. A nurse was very nice and careful while draining 12 tubes of blood and taking my vitals, the same with the EKG technician who was very considerate to my chest pains and tried to do her job as smoothly and speedily as she could to minimize my discomfort. I was truly impressed with the set up of the exam rooms and especially with the staff, I felt very comfortable and taken care off.

After about 2 hours of prep-tests and a long conversation with an anesthesiologist, I was given a 5.30 am show up time for the tomorrow’s surgery. Relieved that things were moving forward, but terrified by the upcoming surgery, I went home. Tomorrow, I will get my very first scar.

Later in the evening, I received another call from the nurse at NYP Cornell who told us that my surgery got postponed and we should come at 8.30 am instead.

There was another thing i had to do – call my mom in Minsk. I knew sooner or later she would eventually find out, so i wanted to deliver the news and updates myself.

Friday, September 19, 2014 

We showed up at the NYP Cornell on time, the nurse led us to the patient room and ran a few more tests. Dr.J.P. came by to talk to me and explain the procedure one more time, which was very nice and comforting. However, I was in a state of fear and it was written all over my face. Another anesthesiologist came to explain how they were going to first sedate me and then put me to sleep. When everything was ready, they walked me to the operation room.

It was very cold and bright inside with a crowd of people laboring over the different machines. With some help, i climbed on the table and was covered with what looked like a blanket made of the long clear balloons inflated with hot air. It was light and very warm. The moment i got on the table and put my head down, the anesthesiologist inserted something into my IV and right before passing out, i looked at the wall and saw a clock showing 10.05 am.

Next time i opened my eyes, i was still in the same operation room and the clock was showing 10.25 am. I responded to the nurses and doctors calling my name and then passed out for another 2-3 hours in the recovery room. Anesthesia made you feel very thirsty, i finally woke up when i realized that my mouth turned into Sahara desert. I asked for a few cubes of ice to suck on and a few moments later, they called for Dimitris to come and visit me. I was still very delusional and medicated, but it felt good because for the first time in 5 days, i didnt feel anything at all and i could leisurely stay in bed and sleep without any problems. My hopes were severely shuttered when another patient was rolled in and placed next to me.

I understand that people have different reaction to the anesthesia and recover from it in different ways, but this man was simply mad. He kept shouting and accusing personnel in making him blind, but in reality he refused to open his eyes. Doctors and nurses came over to calm him down but even 30 minutes later they couldn’t make him open his eyes or stop screaming. I was transferred to another recovery room to make my post surgical experience as calm as possible.

Biopsy doesn’t require hospitalization or overnight observation but i did have this option, in case i didn’t feel well enough to go home. After acquiring a prescription for Oxycodone/Acetaminophen (also known Percocet) and Senna (stool softener), I was released from the hospital.

Frankly, the first night at home was not fun. My cut and chest pains were all in one spot and even though i took Percocet, I woke up a few hours later feeling as if a part of my chest was cut out. First time it is always the worst time.

Saturday-Thursday, September 20-25, 2014

The first few days were terrible, i lived from one Oxycodone pill to another, every 6 hours for about 2 days. My biopsy cut ran straight through my left chest chamber adding to already existing chest pain. I couldn’t tell what hurt more, but I guess the painkiller managed to keep both under control. I also developed mild fevers, from 99.5-100.5 F (37.3-38C) which were still acceptable according to my post surgery document but left me worried.

The nights were particularly bad because i couldn’t sleep in any other position but on my back, which caused terrible pains in my neck, shoulders and lower back. I would take a pill and sleep for 2-3 hours, then get up for 3-4 hours to stretch my back and go back to bed in the morning, equipped with another pill. In total, i slept 5-6 hours and the worst thing was to get up from bed. I couldn’t make myself lift my upper body in order to sit up and then get off the bed, it was just terribly painful. You don’t realize that in order to get up, you need to propel your upper body through air by a rough jerk and this is something I had to deal with. On one occasion, i woke up in the middle of the night and spent 2 hours trying to get myself to sit up, this is how scared i was. First 3-4 days after the surgery were the most difficult ones, but my condition kept improving significantly as the days went by. Tylenol PM became my best friend.

On day 3, I was allowed to remove a patch and found a bunch of sticky stripes covering the cut. I was told not to soak the wound but to wash around it with a liquid Dial antibacterial soap, which i did. Water definitely has a miraculous influence on me (maybe because i am an Aquarius), even a short shower made my back pains go away.

I didn’t leave the apartment, Dimitris and I signed up for the Stanford University online classes and kept watching them on AppleTV. I realized that i haven’t finished the last 2 seasons of The Tudors, so i signed back in with Netflix and spent 4-5 hours a day watching several episodes at once. It was entertaining and it definitely took my mind off everything.

Many things ran through my head during this time. I couldn’t grasp the idea that last Sunday, September 14, Dimitris and I went to see a spectacular Broadway show The Book of Mormon, something we wanted to do for so many months. After the show, we went to an Italian restaurant and everything seemed so idyllic… for the next 12 hours before the pain came. I was continuously contemplating about my past life and things i have done. There were a lot of coincidences and chances in everything that happened. In 2005, when i applied for the US green card, i had to pass a medical exam and if i had cancer then, i would have never been allowed to stay in this country, a country i consider my home now. On July 3, 2014 i got married to a man I love above anything else in the world and simultaneously acquired a medical insurance provided by his work – one of the best med plans in the country. I had a medical insurance prior to marriage but by no means it would have covered all the expenses we were facing at the moment. Lack of insurance is the worst thing that can happen to you in the US. We left for a 7 week honeymoon to visit Oxford – a place where we met and studied, Greece – where Dimitris’ parents live, Belarus – my home and Russia, before flying back to New York. We came back on September 1, 2014, just two weeks before I started to have chest pains, but what if it started before, while we were traveling in Europe? Could i get the same level of treatment, diagnosis, comfort? It sounds very strange, but whatever was happening to me, came timely. It came when i was home and could seek immediate help.

Another thing was dealing with my family. My mom, who is an inspiring, intelligent and very upbeat woman fell into depression. We spoke every day and every day she came up with different causes of my pain, either heart disease or osteoporoses or general inflammation. She failed to recognize that i already had a mass in my chest or she simply decided to ignore it, but i had to wake her up and tell her to stop speculating. We both knew that it was something more serious, and at that time, i needed her to be there for me.

Friday, September 26, 2014

We were told that the biopsy results would be available as early as Wednesday, September 24, however, they didn’t show up till Friday, September 26. Dimitris called in the afternoon to find out and we were told to wait for the nurse to get back to us.

Nurse from the Dr. J.P. office called around 3 pm to tell that the biopsy results came back and according to the pathology report, I had a large diffuse B-cell Lymphoma and should be consulted with the oncologist for a more detailed diagnosis and treatment. Dimitris was on the phone with her but he leaned forward to me and said “This is lymphoma” and at this moment I finally broke into tears.  Past week i went through so much pain that i didn’t have a chance to cry. I consoled my husband, my and his parents, but i couldn’t cry myself because convulsions would kill my heart. But now, I cried. The diagnosis didn’t tell me much since i am not a doctor but i knew it was a type of blood cancer. Cancer?! How could i be diagnosed with cancer?!

Dr. J.P. referred us to a lymphoma oncologist with the NYP Cornell – Dr. J.L. so after we got all the info from a nurse, we reached out to Dr. J.L. office. Apparently, Dr.J.L. wasn’t accepting any new clients so we had to look for other doctors. I called Memorial Sloan Kettering, the #1 cancer hospital in the US and managed to get an appointment with Dr. M.M. on Tuesday, September 30 (in order to do it, we had to get all our papers from NYP Cornell and fax it to MSK). Meanwhile,  assistant of Dr.J.L. from NYP Cornell Oncology department called back and said that even though Dr.J.L. doesn’t take new patients, he saw my results and would like me to come on Monday at 8.30 am to see him. She also scheduled me for a PET CT scan for the next day so Dr.J.L. would have all the info in oder to make a right diagnosis.

I guess Dimitris and I felt a relief and fear at the same time when we found out that I do have cancer. I was finally diagnosed thus the treatment was available, but there were still so many questions. We were really lucky to get two appointments with two best hospitals in the country in such a short notice, we knew that from now on, it should get only better but our life turned upside down.

We spent time to research online more about lymphoma but there was so much information about it and so many types, sub-types that we decided to speak to a doctor before scaring ourselves even more. At the moment, we had to wait till Monday.

Later that evening we’ve got an unexpected call from Dr.J.L. himself who wanted to follow up on my status and see if i had any reservations, concerns or questions. He told me that he saw my charts and tests and that my condition was curable with a high chance of success. He told me not to worry and that he was looking forward to meeting me on Monday.

Today, I was diagnosed with cancer but i was already attended by a doctor who promised to save my life. May i call myself lucky?

Saturday, September 27, 2014

At 1 pm we showed up at 1305 York Avenue for my PET CT scan. I was led into a room without any delays and Dimitris was welcomed to accompany me at all times. Jack, my nurse, checked my blood for glucose (which was fine), inserted an IV into my left arm and injected radioactive fluorodeoxyglucose into my body.

For the next hour, i was supposed to drink special liquid (which came in three flavors: raspberry, fruit punch or ice tea), one glass every 15 minutes, before heading for a scan. Jack was super accommodating and kind, he did his work very carefully and practically painlessly while chatting me up. After I was ready, i changed my clothes and was brought into the scan room. PET scan allows the machine to detect the radioactivity and produce the cross-sectional images of the body, thus determining how much disease is present. While CT scan takes multiple X-ray pictures of the organs from all the angles. The results of PET CT show my doctor the stage of the disease.

Due to my not obese body type, i was allowed to be scanned with my arms down (i still couldn’t lift them up) and it took about 30 minutes. After we were done, i was given a copy of the CD with my scan and sent back home.

Just another day at the hospital.

Monday, September 29, 2014

Promptly, at 8.30 am we were at the NYP Cornell Oncology department, waiting for our appointment with Dr.J.L. After a bit of delay we were escorted into an exam room where Dr. J.L. assistant, Orel, took all our information and made me complete the forms. It was very nice to meet Dr.J.L., he seemed very cheerful and upbeat. He told us that I have a mediastinal diffuse B-cell non-hodgkin lymphoma located in my chest. I was a typical candidate for this type of lymphoma – mid 30-40 young female. It is not genetical and not acquired by any wrongdoings, it just shows up out of the blue. One and only indication that i had a lymphoma was drenching sweats that i had at night. They started in Oxford in 2011 and continued into present, however, it didn’t bother me since they were getting less and less frequent. However, according to a doctor, night sweats weren’t the indicators either, since this type of lymphoma is a fast growing mass thus couldn’t exist in my chest for the last 3 years.

Dr. J.L. explained to us the general information about lymphoma and gave detailed information about my type, including the course of treatment he chose for us, not the regular R-CHOP, but R-EPOCH, a chemotherapy adjusted to each specific patient which requires a 4-5 day inpatient stay at the hospital, every 3 weeks for 6 treatments. Dr. wanted to avoid or completely eliminate radiation therapy as much as possible, since it causes other types of cancer in a short run. I felt that it was finally a first step forward we made since getting a biopsy. I knew that i can trust Dr.J.L. and he did look like he sincerely cared about my well-being. That was very important to me, not to be another body on the conveyer of thousands of cancer patients.

Dr.J.L. also acquired about our plans to have children. We are newlyweds and obviously we thought about having children in the future. Even though chemo therapy could cause only 20-30% of infertility or difficulties in getting pregnant, it would definitely age my ovaries, at least by 5 years and taking into account a possibility of future treatments as well as a grace period of 2 years after the first treatment when I can’t get pregnant, we were looking at a very dim picture. Dr.J.L. advised us to speak with the IVF specialist at the Ronald O. Perelman and Claudia Cohen Center for Reproductive Medicine at NYP Cornell before starting the treatment. He said, we still had a few weeks time in case we wanted to go through embryo freezing before starting chemo therapy.

Before leaving, Dr.J.L. wanted to take bone marrow biopsy and more blood work. If previously i was innocently unaware of different types of cancer, i was quite familiar what bone marrow biopsy was like – a procedure when a needle goes into your hip bone while you are awake. I saw it many times on TV and it looked terrifying to me. But I had to go through this. Dimitris was asked to leave the room. I lied on my stomach with a pillow under my hips. Dr. injected me with a topical anesthesia, then made a cut on my lower back. I felt nothing till he started to drill (or so it felt) my bone with a needle, deeper and deeper. Dr. asked me to take a deep breath once and then another time, i guess when the needle penetrated into a bone, but frankly, i was so occupied with breathing, i felt nothing or almost nothing. It was so damn scary (the sheet i was lying on was all wet when i got up) but it wasn’t terribly painful after all.

While I was getting drilled, Dimitris managed to get an appointment at the Center of Reproductive Medicine for Wednesday, October 1, 2014 with Dr. D.S., we hoped to have it sooner rather than later but even a push call from Orel didn’t get us a sooner appointment.

I still had to do my blood work and by now it became sort of routine. However, Sophia, a young lady from Barbados who was drawing my blood, poked me in 3 places with no results – the blood tube remained clear and blank. It took her quite some time to finally find a place on my body where blood was still flowing to collect her 15 tubes of blood.

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

At 2.00 pm we had an appointment at the Memorial Sloan Kettering on East 64th street. We came on-time but waited for about 2.5 hours before being seen by Dr.M.M. While waiting for our appointment, we started to chat with Ed, who is a current 3 year into remission patient of Dr.M.M. Ed happened to be a Lebanese of jewish background who left Beirut in 1968. Just this fact was fascinating because in the last 3 years I spent a lot of time in Beirut and Lebanon and knew and loved this country very much. He told us about his diagnosis and battle with cancer and it seemed very easy. I know that attitude matters more than the real state of affairs and Ed was a sincere version of optimism and nothing but optimism. For the first time in two weeks, i felt that there is an exit to this situation, that people go through this and come back even stronger and happier. Conversation with Ed made both Dimitris and I feel safer and relaxed.

In the exam room, i was first interviewed by Dr.M.M.’s residency doctor from Nigeria. He was very thorough asking many questions and examining me. Dr. M.M. came in about an hour and we had a very detailed conversation which was very similar to the one we had at the NYP Cornell with Dr. J.L. We were given another option to R-EPOCH but it didn’t make a difference to us. Also, MSKCC doesn’t keep you in the hospital during the chemo treatment, they change a pack and send you back home on the same day, but the regiment was the same – 4-5 days, every 3 weeks for 6 treatments. It was a solid second opinion and we needed to make a decision to which doctor to choose and where to undergo the treatment.

After some deliberation, Dimitris and I decided to go with NYP Cornell. We liked both doctors but i felt that Dr.J.L. made further steps in order to start treatment ASAP and i was comfortable staying in the hospital and not home during the chemo therapy since i didn’t know what kind of side effects i would develop. Also, Dr.J.L. is a chief of the department at NYP Cornell with over 24 years of experience, his chirpy attitude and immediate responses to every our email were re-assuring. Decision was made!

In addition, Orel didn’t lie when she said that the bone marrow biopsy would feel soar but not really hurt, for the few days i was back on Tylenol. It got better with each day and i was able to remove a patch and take a shower.

Medical bill from September 15-30 is $50,123.87.

The post The Notes of a Cancerous Girl. September 2014. first appeared on SvetaNYC.

Sunil and I left Mandawa in the morning, shortly after the breakfast. After 16 days in Rajasthan and 35 days in India, it was my final road trip before reaching Delhi. Despite all the extremes that happened to me in Rajasthan, I made a right decision to come there and see with my own eyes this beautiful land of incredible scenery and rich history, learn about half-dozen of ancient kingdoms still co-existing within the Union of India, visit extravagant palaces and hear the secrets of zenana, witness the sunrises in Thar desert and spend a night on camel safari. At times, I felt exhausted to constantly look over my shoulder and try to remain safe and sane, but mostly, I enjoyed my experience. Waiving goodbyes to Rajasthan, I was finally driving back to where I started – New Delhi, to the comfortable home of Varun and familiar faces of my Oxonian friends.

The trip was uneventful, after 3-4 hours we reached Delhi and Sunil took me to the Kalka Travel‘s office to finally meet the owner of the agency and to pay my balance. After all formalities were done, Sunil drove me to Safdarjung Enclave where I was staying at my friend’s family home. It was an evening full of lengthy travel stories on my behalf and lots of listening on Varun’s. I finally felt safe and I looked forward to spending 5 more days in Delhi before taking off to New York.

January 20, 2014

For the history of Delhi, please refer to this link – my first post about Delhi. For many people, Delhi is the first stop in India and they rush to leave it for Agra or Varanasi, however, Delhi is a remarkabe megapolis with 7 distinctive threads of history woven in the fabric of the city. After reading the history of Delhi and especially book by William Dalrymple “City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi”, I realized that it would be a great opportunity to stay there for more than a few days and explore every nook and cranny of it. I compiled a list of 14 “must see” things and while spicing them up with some unexpected stops and diversions, embarked on my quest of Delhi.

Varun’s mom, lovely Seema, allowed me to borrow their car with a driver for a day, so I could get acquainted with the city in comfort. First, I headed to Old town to pay my respect to the person whose name just as tightly associated with India as India’s with his – Mahatma Gandhi. I drove to Raj Ghat. Located just south of the Red Fort, originally it was a name of a historic ghat of Shahjahanabad on the bank of Yamuna river, next to where the Raj Ghat Gate of the walled city used to stand. Entrance was free and in order to enter I had to remove my shoes.  An attendant tried to scam me by demanding money for shoe storage, however, I just placed them on a rack on the opposite side from him and entered the site accompanied by his angry screams.

Manicured lawns and well maintained stone paths covered with green carpets made this place look serene and I guess, this is what the architects of the memorial hoped for – to put the father of the nation in tranquil and beautiful place in the heart of Delhi. A black marble platform with an eternal fire marks the spot where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated a day after his assassination on 31 January 1948. It is inscribed with what are said to have been Gandhi’s final words “Hai Ram” (“Oh, God”). Gladly, there weren’t a lot of visitors, so I enjoyed the memorial in peace. On the way back, I was afraid not to find my shoes, but they were exactly where I left them.

Then, despite Seema’s advice not to visit the market today, we drove to Chandni Chowk where the driver dropped me off. If I were to see the largest and most famous market in India, I had to go for the full-on Indian experience on the busiest day of the week – Monday. Chandni Chowk, or the Moonlight Square, was designed and established by Princess Jahanara, Shah Jahan’s favorite daughter, in 1650 B.C. and was once the grandest of the markets in India (in fact, the Mughal imperial processions used to pass through it). The bazaar, shaped as a square, was given further elegance by the presence of a pool in the centre of the complex, which didn’t survive to present times. The pool shimmered in the moonlight hence the name “Moonlight square” (another theory – the bazaar was famous for its silver merchants and was referred to as Chandi in Hindu). The shops of the complex were originally built in a half-moon shaped pattern, which is lost today too.

Today, Chandni Chowk is Delhi’s main thoroughfare – chaotic, dirty, non-disciplined, packed with small shops and stalls, crowded with sellers, lookers and hawkers. Sarees, jewelry, wedding gowns, ice-cream, shoes, fabrics etc. The market lives and spreads through the network of twisting alleys but unfortunately, it doesn’t offer the medieval bazaar experience of the time of Shah Jahan.

Somewhere in the middle of Chandni Chowk I saw a beautiful building of the Sikh Temple – Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib. It is one of the nine historical gurdwaras in Delhi, established in 1783 by Baghel Singh to commemorate the martyrdom site of the ninth Sikh Guru, Tegh Bahadur who was beheaded there on the orders of Aurangzeb on 11 November 1675 for refusing to convert to Islam.  Before Guru Tegh’s body could be quartered and exposed to public view, one of his disciples, Lakhi Shah Vanjara, stole it and burnt his house to cremate the Guru’s body (this place is Gurdwara Rakab Ganj Sahib). The severed head (“sis” in Punjabi) of Guru was brought to Anandpur Sahib in Punjab by another disciple, Bhai Jaita where it was cremated by the Guru’s son, Gobind Rai.

Story goes that on 11 March 1783, Sikh military leader Baghel Singh marched into Delhi along with his army. He occupied the Diwan-i-Am and the Mughal emperor Shah Alam II agreed to allow Baghel Singh to raise gurdwaras on Sikh historical sites in the city and receive six annas in a rupee (37.5%) of all the octroi duties in the capital. Sis Ganj was one of shrines built by him, within the space of eight months, from April to November 1783. However, due to volatile political climate in the 19th century, the site alternated between being a mosque and a gurdwara which caused dispute between two communities. Eventually, the Privy Council during British Raj ruled in the favor of the Sikh and the present structure was added in 1930, gold guild of the domes was added in the coming years. The trunk of the tree under which the Guru was beheaded is also preserved here along with the well from which he took bath while in prison. Also, adjoined to gurdwara is the Kotwali (police station), where Guru was imprisoned and tortured. Now Katwali serves as Langar (free kitchen) and Sarai (accommodation for pilgrims).

I removed and deposited my shoes (free) before entering the Temple. Visitors were washing their hands and feet and water was running down the road in all directions, so I had to walk barefoot through the puddle of water for about 20 meters. Inside the Gurdwara I covered my head and shoulders and stepped into a different world. The prayer’s hall was phenomenal, covered with white marble, crystal chandeliers, carpets and red flowers. It was quiet with not lots of visitors, so I sat in the corner and let my eyes explore this beautiful place.

I am not familiar with Sikh traditions but it looked like I entered in the middle of a ceremony conducted by a man sitting next to a covered throne, right in front of a poshly decorated tomb or mausoleum. People kept getting up and coming to this man while he continued to sing or recite something in a melodic manner. It was quiet and relaxed, nobody paid any attention to me. I discreetly took a few pictures and ascended to the second level which provided me with even better views of the temple. I wish I could stay there longer but I had more things to explore.

After leaving the Temple, I unsuccessfully tried to reach my driver to come and pick me up, so I simply took a tuk-tuk (I became more familiar and comfortable negotiating the prices with drivers of “never-in-order meters”). Since I still had a full day, I asked him to take me to Lakshmi Narayan Temple also known as Birla Mandir.

It is a Hindu temple dedicated to Laxminarayan (usually refers to Vishnu Preserver when he is with his consort Lakshmi). Its construction started in 1933 by industrialist and philanthropist Baldeo Das Birla and his son Jugal Kishore Birla and the foundation stone was laid by Maharaj Udaybhanu Singh. The temple was built in the northern Nagara style under the supervision of famous Acharya Vishvanath Shastri who brought with him more than hundred skilled artisans from Varanasi. In 1939, the completed temple was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi who requested it to be open not only to the Hindus but to people of every cast, hence the sign on the gate says “Everyone is Welcome”. 

The temple faces the East and is situated on a high plinth. It spreads over 7.5 acred and is adorned with many shrines, fountains, large garden and cascading waterfalls. The entire temple is decorated with Jaipur marble carvings depicting the scenes from Hindu mythology and the highest shikhara above the sanctum sanctorum rises 160 feet high. The main temple houses statues of Lord Narayan and goddess Lakshmi, while the side shrines are dedicated to Shiva, Krishna, Ganesha, Hanuman and Lord Buddha. The left temple’s shikhar houses Devi Durga, the Hindu goddess of Shakti, the power.

Even though it is a large temple surrounded by many little temples, it took me only 30 minutes to see everything (maybe because they didn’t allow any pictures inside – backpacks and shoes must be deposited in a special room for free). I don’t think it is the most beautiful Hindu temple I’ve ever seen but it was the most organized one, they even had signs in English, explaining one or another Hindu deity.

From there, I walked to another Sikh place -a beautiful wedding cake-like Gurdwara Bangla Sahib. I had a list of places to see, but without planning, I ended up visiting lots of Sikh’s places in one day. Gurdwara was originally a bungalow belonging to Raja Jai Singh, a ruler of Amber, and was known as Jaisinghpura Palace. The eight Sikh Guru, Har Krishan Dev, resided there in 1664. During that time, there was a smallpox and cholera epidemic, so a 6 y.o. Guru, despite his tender years, tended to victims by giving aid and fresh water from the well at the house. Soon he too contracted the disease and eventually died on 30 March 1664. Raja Jai Singh constructed a small pond “Sarovar” over the well and now its water “Amrita” is revered to have healing properties. The temple itself, along with 8 others, was first built by the the General Sardar Bhagel Singh in 1783 with an agreement of Mughal emperor Shah Alam II. Currently, the Gurdwara is a place of great reverence and pilgrimage for Sikhs who flock here at all hours.

Shoeless (free to deposit) and with a mandatory covered head, I entered the beautiful Gurdwara. The premises include the temple, a kitchen, Sarovar (holy pond), a school and an art gallery. Every Sikh Gurdwara practices the concept of langar – all people regardless of race or religion are invited to dine in the Gurdwara kitchens (langar halls) for free.The food is prepared by gursikhs who work there but also by volunteers. I was offered to join langar several times while I was inside, but because I was very cautions in regards to food, I declined the invitation and never got to experience the langar.

I didn’t go inside the temple but instead slowly walked around Sarovar, repeating the rituals that sikhs performed – washing my hands in the water, circumambulating the pond and enjoying this beautiful site. I am not sure if the water was clean but it was definitely full of fish.

I spent about an hour in Durgwara and could possibly spend a whole day, it is just a wonderful, peaceful, stunning place to be at.

After leaving the Gurdwara, I leisurely strolled (1 km) towards Janta Mantar (literally meaning “abracadabra” in Hindi). It was another popular place in Delhi that I wanted to visit. Jantar Mantar in Delhi is one of five observatories in west-central India built by the Rajput king of Amber & Jaipur, but also scientist and astronomer, Jai Singh II. Other four are in Mathura, Varanasi, Ujjain and Jaipur (click here to read my review of Jantar Mantar in Jaipur). Its construction started in 1724 and presently it consists of 13 architectural astronomy instruments that were built by an order of the Mughal emperor Muhammad Shad to revise the calendar and astronomical tables, to be able to predict the times and movements of the sun, moon and planets.

The four main yantras (Samrat, Jai Prakash, Ram and Misra) are housed in six structures. The Mistra yantra believed to have been constructed after Jai Singh II death by his son, Maharaja Madho Singh (1751-1768). They say that by 1867, most structures considerably decayed but were beautifully repaired and restored back to life. Unlike the Janta Mantar of Jaipur, which is still in working condition and frequently utilized by scientists, the Delhi’s one is just another touristic site to see and explore.

After paying Rs.100, I walked into the observatory. Jantar Mantar in Delhi occupies much larger space than the one in Jaipur, that is why, no matter how many people are inside, it still feels spacious and pretty empty. In addition, I guess Monday isn’t their busiest day (I suspect everyone was shopping at the Chandni Chowk), there were no more than 10 tourists and about 30 Indian visitors inside.

The first astronomy instrument located to the right from the entrance is Misra Yantra or “composite yantra” consisting of five different instruments – Dakshinottara Bhitti, Samrat (in two halves), Niyat Chakra, Karka Rasivalaya and the Western Quadrant. Misra Yantra was designed as a tool to determine the shortest and longest days of the year. Quite remarkable, it could also indicate the exact moment of moon in various cities and locations regardless of their distance from Delhi. In a sense, it is a unique instrument, since it was the only one not invented by Jai Singh II.

The Dakshinottara Bhitti (also built in 4 other observatories) was a modified version of the portable meridian dial present in Greek, Arabic, Hindu and European systems of astronomy. It is a graduated semicircle structure located on the easter wall and its purpose is to measure the meridian altitude of a celestial object, particularly altitude of the sun.

The Niyat Chakra or “Fixed Arc” is in the center of Misra Yantra and consists of four semicircular scales on either side of a central gnomon. The scales are inclined to the meridian place at different degrees and serve to measure the declination of an object at intervals of a few hours as the object moves from east to west in the sky during the period of the day. The Niyats are meant to duplicate the readings for the meridian arcs at four different locations on the globe: Notkey in Japan, Serichew in Pic Islands, Zurich in Switzerland and Greenwich in England.

The Karka Rasivalaya or “Circle of the Sight of Cancer” consists of large graduate semicircle marked on the northern wall of the Misra Yantra. This wall is inclined to the vertical at angle of about 5° and is parallel to the plane of the tropic of cancer. On 21 June, when the sun is at the tropic of cancer, its rays graze the instrument at noon. Its purpose is to measure (to the nearest minute of an arc) the longitude of a celestial object, such as the moon at the moment when the first point of the sign of cancer is on the meridian.

The Samrat Yantra of Misra Yantra is constructed in two halves so it could be used before and after the noon hour. Its function is to determine the local time.

The taller Western Quadrant was sometimes identified as an Agra or amplitude instrument to measure the latitude and longitude of a celestial object every 24 hours.

Next was Samrat Yantra or “Supreme Instrument” – a giant triangle that is basically an equal hour sundial. It is 20.73 m high, 38.10 m long at the base and 3 m thick. It has a 39 m hypotenuse that is parallel to the Earth’s axis and points toward the North pole making an angle of 28°37′ with the horizon, equal to the latitude of Delhi. On either side of the triangle is a quadrant representing the plane of the equator with graduation indicating hours, minutes and seconds. The time at a given moment is read by the shadow of the inclined wall (gnomon) on the quadrants.  At the time of the Samrat Yantra’s construction, sundials already existed, but the Supreme Instrument turned the basic sundials into a precision tool for measuring declination and other related coordinates of various celestial bodies. The chamber in its Eastern quadrant contains another instrument – the Shasthamsa Yantra.

The Shasthamsa or “Sextant Instrument” is unique to the Delhi and Jaipur observatories and is regarded to be the Jai Singh II’s high precision instrument which measures the declination, zenith distance and the diameter of the sun. This Yantra consists of a large graduated 60° arc built in the plane of a meridian within a dark chamber hight above the arc. A pinhole near the top of the chamber is left open to read the declination of the sun when it passes through the meridian and shines on the arc through the pinhole.

Another interesting instrument, named after Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, used to measure the coordinates (azimuth and altitude) of the celestial objects, local time and other zodiac observations is Jai Prakash Yantra or “Light of Jai”. It consists of two hollowed out hemispheres, 6.33 m long, built into the ground and represents a complete hemisphere. The hemisphere has various scales marked on the concave surfaces, including  the circles of the signs of the Zodiac. The areas between alternate hour circle in the two hemispheres were replaced by steps in order to read the scale markings. The position of the sun was indicated by the shadow of the cross wires that were stretched across the yantra from North-South and East-West.

Ram Yantra, named after Raja Ram Singh, was Jai Singh II’s invention and is known to have no duplicates in the world. The hight of the walls and the pillar is equal to the internal radius of the building – 7.51 m. The floor is divided into 30 sectors raised on 0.91 m high supports which help observation. The sectors and their intervening open spaces measure 6° degrees each, thus making a full circle of 360°. Its function was to measure the horizontal (azimuth) and vertical (altitude) angles of celestial bodies, such as the sun and the moon.

It is a cylindrical instrument, consisting of the two large building open to the sky. The building are complementary to each other and each represents a circular wall surrounding a central pillar. The walls, floor and pillar have scales marked on them. The wall sections correspond to the floor markings and contain notches to place sighting bars. The horizontal sectors are used to measure the angle of azimuth for objects with zenith distance less than 45° and the scales on the walls are used for objects with zenith distance greater than 45°.

Jantar Mantar is an interesting place to discover, especially if you have a guide or know what you are looking at. Otherwise, it resembles an enormous park filled with the gigantic abstract sculptures belonging more to a Museum of Modern Art then to science. I spent about an hour there, walking around but mostly interacting with a gang of homeless children who came to beg but then got carried away by the stuff I pulled out of my backpack – little trinkets, chocolate and beautiful hair ribbons for the smallest and only girl in the group. We developed some sort of communication, without speaking a word in each other’s language and I felt sad to leave, and so did they, I think.

At the exit, I saw a hundred missed calls from my driver. Apparently, he was in a basement with his friends when I tried to reach him from Chandni Chowk, but when Seema and Varun called him later to check on me, he didn’t know where I was. When I reached him, he told me to wait at Jantar Mantar till he comes to pick me up. I was actually going to see the last place of the day – Agrasen ki Baoli, which was about 5 minutes walk from the observatory. I should have done it because the driver arrived 45 minutes later and then got lost looking for the baoli. By the time we arrive, the baoli was about to close but I asked an attendant to let me in for 5 minutes.

Agrasen ki Baoli (also known as Ugrasen ki Baoli) is a protected monument by the Archeological Survey of India. A stepwell (baoli) is an underground structure for the water storage mainly constructed to cope with seasonal fluctuations in water availability. Although there are no known historical records to prove who built Agrasen ki Baoli, it is believed that it was originally built by the legendary king Agrasen during the Mahabharat epic era and rebuilt in the 14th century by the Agrawal community which traces its origin to Maharaja Agrasen. The architectural features of this Baoli resemble those of the late Tughlaq or Lodi period.

It is 60 m long and 15 m wide and is among a few of its kind in Delhi. Built with rubble and dressed stones, the main feature of the structure is the long flight of steps leading down to the steep well situated in the north. Some parts of the well, with 103 steps, are permanently immersed in water. The visible parts of this historical stepwell consist of three levels. Each level is lined with arched niches on both sides. Regarding the name Agrasen Ki Baoli it should be stated that in 1132 AD an Agrawal poet named Vibudh Shridhar mentions, in his work Pasanahacariu, a wealthy and influential Agrawal merchant of Dhilli named Nattal Sahu who was also a minister in the court of King Anang Pal III. Rebuilding the old Agrasen Ki Baoli would have been within the means of a well established and wealthy Agrawal community during the 14th century.

On the west is a small mosque with three openings. Raised on a solid platform with underground dalans on the sides, it has a “whaleback” roof and pillared columns of red sandstone carved with “Chaitya motifs and stucco medallions” in spandrels, which makes it a distinct structure.

I truly wish I had more time to spend in this atmospheric place and hang out on the steps with a bunch of other young couples, but it was closing at 6 pm.

It was getting dark, so the driver took me back home to Safdarjung Enclave via the eastern end of Rajpath and by 42 m-high India Gate. In a few days (26 January) India was getting ready to celebrate its Independence Day, so the roads were closed for public and traffic was horrendous.

Wow, what a great but tiring day I had! There was nothing better than to spent the evening at home, in a lovely company of Seema and Varun.

January 21, 2014

Unlike the day prior, Tuesday turned out to be foggy, cold and wet. Luckily, it wasn’t raining, but equipped with an umbrella, I was ready to embark on yet another journey around Delhi. Varun, on his way to work, kindly dropped me off at my first pit-stop – Safdarjung’s Tomb. Unexpectedly, on my trip to India I’ve seen more tombs then ever in my entire life.

This magnificent marble mausoleum, built in 1754 in the late Mughal Empire style, holds a body not of an Emperor but a very rich and powerful Vizier. The story goes that Mirza Muqim Abul Mansur Khan, who was popularly known as Safdarjung, was a ruler of Awadh as viceroy of Muhammad Shah. After the death of Emperor, he moved to Delhi and upon Ahmed Shah Bahadur ascendance to the throne in 1748, Safdarjung was made the Chief Minister (Vizier) of the empire with the title of Wazir ul-Mamalk-i-Hindustan.

Since the Emperor was just a figurehead, who enjoyed wine, women and opium more than running a state, Vizier had taken all powers under his control. Unavoidably, his abuse of power provoked the Emperor’s family to call their Hindu Maratha confederacy for help to get rid of Vizier. A civil strife ensued and eventually in 1753 Safdarjung was driven out of Delhi. After his death, just a year later, his son Nawab Shujaud Daula pleaded with the Mughal Emperor to permit him to erect a tomb for his father in Delhi. He then built the mausoleum, designed by an Abyssinian architect, that became both, a site of ridicule and a site of praise. In my opinion, lack of proportions and use of poor material (sandstone in comparison to marble) couldn’t take neither significance nor grandeur away from this structure. As one of the last projects completed during the Mughal rule, Safdarjung’s Tomb is often described as “the last flicker in the lamp of Mughal architecture“.

After paying Rs.100, I was allowed to enter the premises of the mausoleum. As every other Mughal tomb in India, whether it is small or large (except for the tomb of Aurangzeb in Aurangabad), it is never about the actual tomb, which, on most occasions, is located underground and invisible to visitors. It is about the lushness of gardens, the superiority of architecture, the splendor of fountains, the presence of supporting buildings such as palaces, mosques, libraries and so on. Taj Mahal might have set a very high bar, but there are so many wonderfully designed and executed buildings of Mughal period in India. The Safdarjung’s Tomb is no exception. The tomb has four key features – the garden with the mausoleum at the center, a ninefold floor plan, five part façade and a large podium with a hidden stairway.

The main (eastern) entry gate to the tomb is a two storied building with a very elaborate purple façade decorated with the ornaments over plastered surfaces. There is an inscription in Arabic that translates “When the hero of plain bravery departs from the transitory, may he become a resident of god’s paradise”. The rear side of the eastern gate, which is seen after entering through the gate, hosts many rooms and the library. To the right of the gate is a three-domed mosque marked with stripes.

After passing through the main gate of the complex, I entered the charbagh-styled garden which occupies 274.2 m² and has a lay out in the form of four subdivided squares with wide foot paths and water tanks.  One channel leads to the entrance gate and the others lead to the three pavilions – western Jangli Mahal (Palace in the forest), northern Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) and southern Badshah Pasand (King’s favorite). Nawab’s family used to reside in these pavilions.

Entering through the main gate gives a perfect view of the mausoleum which was built on the podium 50 m long on each side. Red and buff stones were used to build the main mausoleum and its dome which is 28 m². The central chamber, square in shape, has eight partitions with a cenotaph in the middle. The interior of the tomb is covered with a decorated  rococo plaster.  Four polygonal towers with marble panels and decorated arches surround the main tomb at the corners.  Underneath the cenotaph is an underground chamber which houses the actual graves of Safdrjung and his wife.

Interestingly, to the south of this tomb is the historic site of the battle that was fought in 1386 between Timur of Mangol and Mohammed Tughlaq when the latter was defeated.

I spent over an hour at the Safdarjung’s Tomb and it was well worth it; my next pit-stop was only a few minutes walk from the Tomb – Lodi Gardens.

Spread over 360,000 m², this park in the heart of New Delhi is a place of stroll, meditation, yoga, picnics, power-talks, making-up, everything that can happen in a busy city’s quiet garden. In addition, Lodi Gardens is also a place of Delhi’s oldest architectural heritage. It witnessed the rise and fall of three different dynasties – Sayyid, Lodi and Mughal, contains architectural works of the 15th century such as Sheesh Gumbad and Bara Gumbad and serves as the last resting place to two leaders –  Mohammed Shah and Sikandar Lodi. As there is little architecture from these periods remains in India, it was the best place for me to explore.

I entered the Lodi Gardens from Lodi Road and appeared right next to the oldest and most remarkable monuments of the park – The Mohammed Shah Tomb.

The Tomb is visible from the road and is the earliest structure in the gardens built in 1444 by Ala-ud-din Alam Shah as a tribute to the Sayyid dynasty ruler Mohammed Shah who ruled from 1434-1444. Sayyid dynasty reined for a short period of time (from 1414-1451) over much shrunken territories. Therefore, they had neither the time nor the money to build grand cities or palaces. The Tomb of Mohammed Shah has some distinctive features of its time – an octagonal plan, corner buttresses, decorative plaster finish, corbeled doorways and chhatris (pavilions) on the roof. The central chamber, which is 15 m in diameter, contains several graves, of which the central one is believed to be that of Mohammed Shah and the others belong to members of his family.

Following the park’s map, I proceeded to the Lodi period Mosque which stands in a masonry enclosure, most portions of which have now disappeared. The mosque consists of rectangular chamber with vaulted roof and three-arched entrances on the eastern side. The west wall hosts three recessed arches. The interior is decorated with ornamental moulding while the exterior is highlighted by the floral ornament with moulding at the cornice level and the inverted lotus on top of the fluted dome. The Mosque is constructed of stone masonry and rendered with very fine red colored plaster in traditional fresco technique. Even though the building yet remains, its initial purpose and some of its dignity was stripped away by time and garden visitors (workers, likely) who use the mosque to park/store their bikes.

One of the most memorable and imposing constructions is Bara Gumbad (Big Dome), located in the middle of the gardens. During the Lodi Period (1451-1526), tombs were raised in two styles – square and octagonal. Bara Gumbad and Sheesh Gumbad are examples of the former, though many archeologists believe that neither of the Lodi Gardens’ Gumbads were actually tombs. Bara Gumbad, a rubble-constructed dome (19m x 19m x 27m high), is one of the biggest and finest examples of the Lodi period monuments in Delhi, built in 1494 during the reign of Sikandar Lodi. Some say that it is a gateway to an attached three-domed masjid (mosque), but some claim that the mosque was no doubt erected as an adjunct to the tomb, and not the other way around.

Both, Sheesh Gumbad and Bara Gumbad has a semblance of being double-storied. It combines spans of both arches, brackets and lintel beams. The main material is grey quartzite with some other stones used for decorative touches – red sandstone on the doorways and a combination of red, grey and black stone on the facade. The interior is very plain and the stone finish is un-plastered and mostly un-carved.

The name of the person who was buried here, but whose grave no longer exists, is unknown, but he must have occupied an important position during Sikandar Lodi’s reign.

The Bara Gumbad’s mosque (25 m x 6.5 m), built at the same time with the Big Dome, is a five-arched hall with a frontage of bracket-and-chajja cornice. It is a fine example of the decorative technique of incised and painted limestone plaster used during the Lodi period. The tapering minarets at the rear are in Tughlaq style but seem to anticipate the octagonal towers of early Mughal and Sur periods of oriel windows on the north and south. Other distinctive elements are the jharokhas (cantilevered, enclosed openings).

The Interior of the mosque is extremely rich in arabesque stucco decoration and paintings, consisting of floral and geometrical designs and Quranic inscriptions (an inscription over the southern mihrab – the arch on the western wall which indicates the direction of prayers- dates it to 1494). Partaking both the Tughlaq and Mughal features, it occupies an important place in the development of the Mughal Mosque.

The long hall in front of the mosque is mihman-khana or guesthouse for pilgrims, there are also the remains of a water tank and a mound of rubble which was probably a grave platform.

Opposite to Bara Gumbad is the Sheesh Gumbad (Glass Dome) named for the glazed tiles used in its construction. Also built during the reign of Sikandar Lodi, the building is somewhat different in ornamentation. With its facade divided horizontally by a string -course and with series of sunk niches running above and below it, it has an external resemblance of being double-storied. Its western wall has a built-in mihrab (arch) which served as a mosque, while the other sides have a central entrance set in a projecting frame. The niches are spanned by arches, the central openings are by bracket-and-lintel beams, combining thus features of both Hindu and Islamic architecture. It was originally faced with friezes of blue enameled tiles, which survived now only in traced, and which gave it its name. It is likely that originally the top half of the exterior was almost entirely covered with tiles.

Inside, Sheesh Gumbad’s high ceiling is decorated with stucco and painted plaster containing floral and Quranic patterns. The chamber of the tomb (10 m²)  contains a number of graves but the names of the persons buried here are not known. Some historians suggest that this is the tomb of the first Lodi Sultan Bahlul Lodi who died in 1489.

After Gumbads, following the well-maintained paths and the remains of a watercourse which connects the Yamuna river to Sikander Lodi’s tomb, I headed to the other side to the gardens to see the last site. Sikandar Lodi was the second ruler of the Lodi dynasty and ruled from 1489 to 1517. His tomb, resembling the one of Mohammed Shah, is set in a garden surrounded by an elaborate enclosure, about 76 m², with 3.5 m high walls. It was built by Sikaner’s son, and the last of Sultans of Delhi from Lodi dynasty, Ibrahim Lodi in 1517.

Tomb is a simple rectangular structure on a high platform approached by a flight of steps. The two chhatries (pavilions) on the square platform in front have remains of blue tiles. Inside the enclosure, the middle part of the western wall has been built so as to function as a wall mosque, with the qibla (direction of prayer) indicated through arches and a paved area in front.

In the center of enclosure is the octagonal tomb, its interior decorated with extensive and fairly well preserved tile work and a painted and incised plaster ceiling. The Tomb was renovated by the British and an inscription mentioning Ibrahim Lodi’s defeat at the hands of Babur was included in 1866.

Before leaving the Lodi Gardens, I passed by the Athpula Bridge (Eight Piered), the last of the buildings in Delhi, build during the reign on Mughal Emperor Akbar. This bridge was constructed to span a stream which went through this area and probably joined the Barahpula nala further south which fed into Yamuna River. The bridge is placed diagonally across the stream bed and has a beautiful curving shape. It contains seven arches, amongst which the central one being the largest. No one knows which road went over this bridge but the presence of a Mughal garden nearby suggests that this was an important resting place.

I spent over 3 hours in the gardens and If I lived in Delhi, it would have been be one of my favorite places to visit. I only regret that there were no guides to explain and elaborate on the magnificent structures the gardens host.

After the Lodi Gardens, still following my graveyard tour of Delhi, I took a tuk-tuk to the Humayun’s Tomb. The Humayun’s Tomb is one of the city’s three UNESCO World Heritage Sites (along with Red Fort and Qutb Minar) and is considered to be the most perfectly proportioned and captivating Delhi’s mausoleums. As most Mughal tombs, it is located in a large, immaculately maintained garden in the Persian Char Bagh (four corners) style that were thoroughly renovated in 2003, which makes it more pleasant to walk around but more boring too. Rs.250 will get you in.

Frankly, there were less visitors at the site than people buried in The Humayun’s Tomb. The garden hosts at least 6 other tombs – of Haji Begum (Humayun’s senior wife), Afsarwala Tomb, Iza Khan Tomb, Bu-Halima enclosure, a tomb of the emperor’s favorite barber and Khan-i-Khanan’s tomb.

Right as you walk in, the first major structure on the right is the bulbous Tomb of Isa Khan built in 1547. Isa Khan Niyazi was a noble in the court of Sher Shah Suri. The enclosure includes his tomb and a mosque, both built during his own life. The octagonal tomb, predating Humayun’s Tomb by 20 yeas, has striking ornamentation in the form of canopies, glazed tiles and a lattice screens. Along the western side of the enclosure, the three-bay-wide mosque has a grand red sandstone central bay and striking mihrabs. Until the early 20th century, an entire village lived in the enclosure.

A bit further on the left, there is an unidentified Tomb with neither visitors nor signs describing what it was and who was buried there.

Aligned in axes with the western gate of Humayun’s Tomb enclosure and Subz Burj, the 16th century gateway to Bu Halima Garden Tomb (of whom not much is known) stands on the eastern side of the enclosure. The upper arched opening has sandstone jharokha with beautiful lattice parapet which is supported on decorative sandstone brackets. Ornate domed canopies surmount the two northern bastions of the garden wall. Remains of the original tile-work decoration are still visible and conservation work was in full process.

Following the Bu Halima Garden Tomb gate was the Arab-Ki-Sarai gateway – the 14 m high passage that served as the southern entrance of Arab Serai, a housing site accommodating the Persian craftsmen involved in building of Humayun’s Tomb. Red sandstone and white marble inlay work add a striking touch to the gateway, mostly built of Delhi quartzite stone. The projecting jharokhas still display remnants of the glazed ceramic tiles.

I passed through Arab-Ki-Sarai gateway and appeared in a totally different world of rubbish and destruction. While the gateways and main tombs were finely restored and decorated, many other buildings, hidden from visitors’ eyes remain in pitiful state. For me, they were the most interesting one to explore, until I realized that they also host many unattended seclusion-seeking creeping single men. I have had my share of experience with Indian men, so I rushed to get out to the public area.

Following the Arab-Ki-Sarai gateway was the whole complex of Afsarwala Tomb and mosque dated to 1566. Folklore attributes this tomb and mosque to “Afsarwala”, meaning “officer”, but nothing more is known. The octagonal tomb is covered with red sandstone with sparing use of white and black marble inlay work. Over the central lofty arch of the three-bay-wide mosque is a niche that could have once held an inscription. The guard at the site was very annoying and clingy, so I sped my pace up.

From there, I entered the West gate (16 m high) – the main doorway to the Tomb-Garden of Emperor Humayun. Rooms on each side flank the central passage and the upper floors has small courtyards. Six-sided stars, used by the Mughals as an ornamental cosmic symbol, adorn the structure.

The centerpiece of the site is the eponymous Tomb of  Emperor Humayun, who was the second Mughal emperor. Built between 1565-1572 by Hamida Banu Begum, his Persian-born senior wife, the tomb brings together Persian and Mughal elements, creating a true predecessor or prototype of Agra‘s Taj Mahal. The structures are indeed stylistically similar (by now, every tomb looks like the previous one to me), although Humayun’s Tomb is built from red sandstone, not white marble, and was built by a wife grieving for her husband, not the other way around.  The Tomb stands on a platform of 12,000 m² and reaches the height of 47 m (the brass finial over the white marble dome is itself 6 m high). Built of rubble masonry, the structure follows strict rules of Islamic geometry, with an emphasis on the number “eight” and is the first to use red sandstone and white marble in such great quantities. The small canopies on the terrace were originally covered in glazed blue tiles.

After climbing to the second level, on the south side I found an entrance into the main crypt which contains the solitary tomb of an emperor, but the structure itself has within it over 100 graves, earning the name “Dormitory of the Mughals”. It was almost 5 pm and guards rushed the visitors out long ago, so I was left on my own. It felt adventurous and a bit freighting to be alone in the mausoleum at night. Interesting fact is that the tomb was the place of refuge taken by the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, before being captured and exiled by the British in 1857.

Soon, the guards came for me and after leaving the Tomb’s site I understood how much scarier it was outside with alive people than inside with dead. Apparently, the entire area around the Tomb is a big resting place for at least a hundred of people. I ended up stepping over sleeping people and their belongings, playing children, cooking women with their utensils and it all was happening in darkness. Since I didn’t know the area well, I rushed to the main road and called Varun, though he was pretty far away to pick me up. I tried to get a taxi but it is almost impossible to get one on the road in Delhi. A few cars stopped by and their impudent and shameless owners, sizing me up, offered to give a lift. Dah… No way! Luckily, there was a police station across the street so I asked the officer to fetch me a tuk-tuk.

I was all wired and tired by the time I got home but I was eager to see my Oxonian friend Priyanka, who invited me to come to an American Comedy club night. It was a very nice place with mediocre but acceptable Italian food, filled mostly with either expats or Indians who hangs out with expats. I haven’t been to many comedy clubs so I am not a judge, but I found the jokes entertaining and the atmosphere friendly and relaxed. Priyanka opened a totally new side of Delhi to me and I am forever thankful for that.

 January 22, 2014

Weather was not cooperating with me, but it is normal. I can choose to come to India in summer and suffocate from smoke, heat and smell, or in winter, when it is rainy, cold-ish and super foggy. For the last few days it has been raining, but usually by noon the weather would improve. Today, rain didn’t stop for a minute and after spending all morning and early afternoon at home, I decided to take my chances and go out. Mostly all places I wanted to see were outdoors, so if I wanted to visit everything that I planned, I had to get wet and dirty.

I took an Uber car to the first place – Baha’i Lotus Temple. Because it is a temple, there was no entrance fee, pictures were allowed in the garden, but not inside the temple. Just as its names says, Lotus Temple does look like a bud of a Lotus flower with 27 petals arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides. Designed by Iranian-Canadian architect Fariborz Sahba, it was completed in 1986 and is surely one of the most magnificent monuments ever made from concrete (the surface of the temple is made of white marble from Penteli mountain in Greece). Some of its elements are specified by Baha’i scripture. Abdu’l-Bahá, the son of the founder of the religion, stipulated that an essential architectural character of a House of Worship is a nine-sided circular shape. While all current Bahá’í Houses of Worship have a dome, this is not regarded to be an essential part of their architecture.  The Lotus Temple located in a beautifully manicured garden (comprising 10.5 ha) with multiple walking paths and nine ponds to enjoy the scenery, but I was in a rush.

Somewhere in the middle of the main path, no less than 70 meters before the temple itself, there was a shoes deposit center. It was about 10-12 C outside with unstoppable rain, but I had to remove my shoes and walk barefoot in pools of water till I finally reach the building itself. Cascading waterfalls on each side (remarkably blue), made it look as if the Lotus bud was floating in the water (as I was definitely already floating). The whole construction and its setting made a breathtaking scene.

What I, unfortunately, can’t say about the internal decoration of the Temple. Bahá’í scripture states that no pictures, statues or images be displayed within the House of Worship and no pulpits or altars be incorporated as an architectural feature (readers may stand behind simple portable lecture stands). The 9 doors of the temple open into a central hall that is slightly more than 40 m tall and capable of accommodating up to 2,500 people. All visitors were divided into guided groups and each group is given an instructions to pack cameras and phones and to be silent for the entire time while inside.

Like all other Bahá’í Houses of Worship, the Lotus Temple is open to all, regardless of religion, or any other distinction, as told in Bahá’í texts. A stone tablet in front of the temple says “This House of Worship is a place for prayer and meditation for the peoples of all religion and races. From within it portals the voice of mankind will ever be raised in praise and glorification of the creator of Universe.” The Bahá’í laws emphasize that the spirit of the House of Worship be that it is a gathering place where people of all religions may worship God without denominational restrictions. The Bahá’í laws also stipulate that only the holy scriptures of the Bahá’í Faith and other religions can be read or chanted inside in any language; while readings and prayers can be set to music by choirs, no musical instruments can be played inside. Furthermore no sermons can be delivered, and there can be no ritualistic ceremonies practiced.

So, when “my” group entered, there was nothing but silence in the Temple. Just as impressive as the temple looked from the outside, as empty and barren it looked from the inside – empty of worshipers, of sounds, of decor or any other religious attributes. I stayed inside for 5 minutes and went out together with my group; apparently, we all were there to see, but not to pray. Before leaving the Temple, I picked up a few brochures about Bahá’í Faith in order to research more at the later time. Luckily, I also had a few spare pairs of socks, because after 30 minutes barefoot under the rain, I sought warmth and dryness of my Merrell shoes.

My second stop of the day was Purana Qila – the oldest fort among all forts in the city and, the oldest known structure of any type in Delhi. It’s located at the site of the legendary city of Indraprastha, that was founded by Pandavas on the banks of Yamuna, which is revered by Hindus since ages. This points to the possibility of this site’s history dating back to nearly more than 5000 years old. A Kunti Temple inside the Qila also exists, which is believed to be the place where Kunti, the mother of Pandavas lived. Consequently the fort is considered by some, to be ‘the first city of Delhi’. Researchers now confirm that up till 1913, a village called Indrapat existed within the fort walls. Excavations carried out by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) have unearthed Painted Grey Ware dating 1000 B.C., and with a continuous cultural sequence from Mauryan to Mughal through Sunga, Kushan, Gupta, Rajput and Sultanate periods, confirming the antiquity of the fort.

Fort was called as the inner pitamdel of the city of Dina-panah during Humayun’s rule who renovated it in 1533 and completed five years later.  Purana Qila and its environs flourished as the “sixth city of Delhi”  (read about the history of Delhi in my previous blog). The founder of the Suri Dynasty, Sher Shah Suri, defeated Humayun in 1540, naming the fort Shergarh; he raised the citadel of Purana-Qila with an extensive city-area sprawling around it and it seems that the fort was still unfinished at Sher Shah’s death in 1545, but was completed either by his son Islam Shah or Humayun.

Subsequently Islam Shah took over the reins of North India from this fort, but shifted his capital to Gwalior, a safer capital in that period, leaving the charge of Delhi and Punjab to his Hindu Governor and military General Hemu. After Islam Shah’s death in 1553, Adil Shah Suri took charge of North India and appointed Hemu as the Prime Minister-cum-Chief of Army and himself retired in Chunar fort. According to a vizier-turn-historian Abul Fazal, Hemu became a virtual king and had all authority of appointments and other decisions making. Hemu was busy in quelling rebellion in east India so the fort remained neglected. Humayun, who was based in Kabul at this time, seized the opportunity to re-capture the citadel and the seat of Delhi in 1555, fifteen years after abandoning it following his defeats at the hands of the Suri Dynasty in the Battles of Chausa and Kannauj. Humayun’s reign proved brief thereafter; he died following an accidental fall within the fort complex at Sher Mandal only a year later, in January 1556.

Hearing about re-capture of Delhi by Humayun, Hemu rushed towards Delhi from Bengal, where he had just defeated and killed Muhammad Adil Shah, the ruler of Bengal. After winning 22 battles spanning entire north India, Hemu met and defeated the forces of Akbar, which were led by Tardi Beg Khan, in the Battle for Delhi, which took place in the Tuglaqabad area in October 1556. Hemu had his Rajyabhishek (coronation) at Purana Qila on 7 October 1556, declaring ‘Hindu Raj’ in North India, and was bestowed the title of Samrat Hem Chandra Vikramaditya. Just a month later, Hemu lost his life at the Second battle of Panipat and subsequently had his torso hung outside this fort to create terror among Hindus.

As history shows, Purana Qila brought bad luck for rulers who occupied it; Humayun, Sher Shah Suri, and Hemu all had but relatively brief tenures ensconced there. Humayun’s son Akbar did not rule from here and Shah Jahan built a new fort in Delhi known as Lal Qila (“Red Fort”).

The walls of the Fort (20 m high and 4 m thick), traverse about 1.9 km, and have three arched gateways: the Bada Darwaza (Big Gate) facing west, which is still in use today; the south gate, also popularly known as the ‘Humayun Gate’ (probably so known because it was constructed by Humayun, or perhaps because Humayun’s Tomb is visible from there); and lastly, the ‘Talaaqi Gate’, often known as the “forbidden gate”.  The eastern side was originally bounded by Yamuna river which since has long changed its course eastward. All the gates are double-storied sandstone structures flanked by two huge semi-circular bastion towers, decorated with white and colored-marble inlays and blue tiles. They are replete with detailing, including ornate overhanging balconies, or jharokhas, and are topped by pillared pavilions (chhatris), all features that are reminiscent of Rajasthani architecture as seen in the North and South Gates, and which were amply repeated in future Mughal architecture. Despite the grandeurs of the exterior, few of interior structures have survived and the ambiguous historical record makes it difficult to say for sure which of the remaining structures of the fort were built by Humayun and which were commissioned by Sher Shar or his son Islam Shah. Nevertheless, this site that conjures up the images of conquest and combat was one of the most desirable for me to visit and after paying Rs.100, I was in.

Like everyone else, I entered Purana Qila via Bada Darwasa (Big Gate), the western entrance (20 m high) to the fortress which most probably was built under Humayun, as it is a part of the main fortification. On either side of it are bastions which, along with the curtain wall beyond, have arrow/gun slits. Kungaras (merlons) would originally have run along the top of the entire length of the wall, but have now completely disappeared except at the top of one of the bastions. The surface ornamentation of the gate consists of inlay patterns in sandstone and marble, some stone carvings and tile work. Jharokhas (cantilevered enclosed openings) and chhatris (pavilions) also serve decorative purpose.

I decided to walk clockwise along the fort’s massive wall in order to enjoy this magnificent structure. It was nice to see that some steps were made to preserve this incredible “sixth city”, as construction workers and their tools were seen everywhere. Walking along the wall, I noticed that some parts of the fort, especially those closer to Bada Darwasa were better preserved than those in the northern or southern parts. I hope the reconstructions will eventually touch all parts equally, because some ruins looked not better than jungle. I also noticed that even though some parts of the wall were left to deteriorate, the others were rebuilt and used as offices or perhaps storage facilities.

Talaaqi Darwasa on the north side is a tall and imposing structure, with the central archway itself measuring 17 m in height. It has entrance ways on two levels, the lower originally being at the level of water. The upper entrance way seems to have been the main way in, as it is more ornamented. If so, a drawbridge or causeway must have connected it to the land on the other side of the moat that encircled the fort. Decorative features include sandstone and marble inlay, carving, tile work, jharokhas and chhatris. There is no credible explanation for the origins of the name of the gate, which literally means “forbidden gate”.

I continued clockwise toward the Mosque located on the eastern side of the compound; I found myself surrounded by more abandoned ruins and weeds than tourists, however, isolation didn’t keep small groups of suspiciously looking weirdoes away, on the opposite. Luckily, there were guards everywhere, so I felt more or less safe. The coolest part was to climb the thick walls of the fort and look outside or around. It was truly an interesting angle.

Single-domed Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque (literally means “the mosque of the old fort”) built by Sher Shah in 1541 is an excellent example of a pre-Mughal design, and an early example of the extensive use of the pointed arch in the region as seen in its five doorways with the ‘true’ horseshoe-shaped arches. The octagonal turrets at the corners of the back wall are distinctive features of the Mughal style. It was designed as a Jami Mosque, or Friday mosque for the Sultan and his courtiers. At one time, the courtyard had a shallow tank, with a fountain.

The prayer hall inside, the single-aisled mosque, measures 51 m by 15 m and has five elegant arched prayer niches or mihrabs set in its western wall. Marble in shades of red, white and slate is used for the calligraphic inscriptions on the central iwan, marks a transition from Lodi to Mughal architecture.

A second floor, accessed through staircases from the prayer hall, with a narrow passage running along the rectangular hall, provided space for female courtiers to pray, while the arched doorway on the left wall, framed by ornate jharokas, was reserved for members of the royal family. On a marble slab within the mosque an inscription reads: “As long as there are people on the earth, may this edifice be frequented and people be happy and cheerful in it”. Today, it is the best preserved building in Purana Qila.

It was distressing and saddening to observe Indian visitors (Hindus and mostly young couples) touching everything and taking pictures of a girl, leaning on the monument, and a guy, groping her. This mosque wasn’t an exception and when I finally got fed up and schooled one couple, they just pack their stuff and left without paying the mosque another glance. Sad.

From the mosque, I proceeded to Sher Mandal that was named so after (Sher Shah) who had tried to finish what was ordered by Babur but had died during the initial phase and so construction was halted until the arrival of Humayun in 1451.

This double-storied octagonal tower of red sandstone with steep stairs leading up to the roof was intended to be higher than its existing height. Its original builder, Babur, ordered the construction to be used as a personal observatory and library for his son Humayun. It is also one of the first observatories of Delhi, the first being in Pir Gharib at Hindu Rao at Ridge built in the 14th century by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. The external diameter of the structure is 16 m, and the height from the base of the plinth to the top of the parapet is 13.5 m. The lower floor is mostly solid, with stairs leading to the upper floor. At the center of the upper level is a small chamber. The tower is topped by an octagonal chhatri supported by eight pillars and decorated with white marble in typical Mughal style.

Inside there are remnants of the decorative plaster-work and traces of stone-shelving where, presumably, the emperor’s books were placed.

This was also the spot where a tragic event took place on 20 (24 or 27) January 1556. Humayun, with his arms full of books, was descending the staircase from his library when the muezzin announced the Adhan (the call to prayer). It was his habit, wherever he heard the summons, to bow his knee in holy reverence. Kneeling, he caught his foot in his robe, but some say that he was pushed while he was trying to do that, tumbled down several steps and hit his temple on a rugged stone edge. He died three days later. They say “he tumbled in life and finally tumbled out of it too.” Entry inside the library is now prohibited.

Next to Sher Mandal is a ruined brick structure – all that stands of a hammam (bath house). The remains of terracotta pipes and a ribbed water chute can still be seen around a room measuring some 32 m². Such hammams, with provision for hot and cold water and even steam rooms, were an important part of Mughal culture. In the years after the abandonment of the fort as a capital of the empire, this structure was forgotten and built over. It was revealed when the clearance of the village of Indarpat and conservation of the site was undertaken in 1913-1914.

And I completed my circled next to the last, southern gate of the Purana Qila – Humayun Darwasa. Though, it is called after Humayun, it is partly attributed to Sher Shah on the basis of fading inscription in ink that was found in one of the rooms on the upper floor. There are two entrances, one on the top of the other. The lower one opened at the level of water in the moat, while the upper would have been approached by a drawbridge or causeway across the moat. Decorations include inlay work and carvings in sandstone, marble and tile work. This gate is the only one to preserve the decorative merlons on top which originally existed over the other gates of the fort too.

I guess most visitors (mostly Indians) weren’t very excited to see yet another replica of the gate they’ve just see on the other side of the fort, that it why this gate was absolutely and utterly empty. There is more for me.

Before it got too dark, I harried to visit another interesting historic place dated 200 years earlier than Purana Qila – Feroz Shah Kotla (entrance fee Rs.100). Since there wasn’t a lot of information about this fort and it was getting to the closing time, I decided to hire a local guide (Rs.200) only to find out a few moments later that he was drunk as a skunk. Nevertheless, since there were no other visitors, his company was better than none at all, so I proceeded anyway.

Ferozabad, the fifth city of Delhi (read about it in my previous blog), was built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq (1351-1388) in 1354 as a replacement for Tughlaqabad. Feroz Shah Kotla was the citadel built along the banks of Yamuna inside Ferozabad. The fortress contained palaces, pillared halls, mosques, a pigeon-tower and a baoli (step-well). While the gateway from the southern enclosure has been later closed, there are also the remains of a gateway from the northern enclosure. Several flights of steps on the east lead down to the old river bank. Feroz Shah was a renown builder whose reign is credited with the construction of several mosques, hunting lodges, reservoirs for irrigation, embarkments and colleges. However, there isn’t a lot remains from his citadel since most of the building material from it was robbed to build Shahjahanabad (1638-1648).

However, ringed by crumbling fortifications, this meticulously maintained fort, still hosts a huge mosque, a baoli (step-well) and a pyramid-like Hawa Mahal topped by a pillar. We first visited the baoli, but it was already closed. I asked the guide to find a keeper with the keys to open it (since they closed it before the due time, simply out of laziness), but he just rolled his drunk eyes on me.

Then we went to see the place of a particular interest to me as it contains a relic of Ashoka The Great, the first Indian emperor dating back to the 3 century B.C – a column, also called obelisk or Lat is one of Ashoka Pillars. The 13.1 m high column, made of polished sandstone and dating from the 3rd Century BC, was brought from Pong Ghati Ambala, Punjab in 14th century A.D. under orders of Feroz Shah. It was installed on a three-tiered arcaded pavilion near the congregational mosque, inside the Sultanate’s fort. In centuries that followed, much of the structure and buildings near it were destroyed as subsequent rulers dismantled them and reused the spolia as building materials, however, Ashoka Pillar remained untouched.

The guide showed me the very steep steps up to the upper pavilion, so I could see the Ashoka Pillar from close distance. The upper lever was a square platform no more than 15 m x 15 m with no railings, so when I asked my guide to take a picture of me and he started to back off all the way to the corner, I got a bit scared for him. He was drunk enough to fall off this 6-7 meter structure.

The Sultanate had wanted to break and reuse the Ashoka pillar for a minaret, however, Feroz Shah decided to erect it near a mosque instead. At the time of re-installation of the obelisk in Delhi, in 1356, no one knew the meaning of the script engraved in the stone (it was written primarily in Brahmi language, with some Pali and Sanskrit added later).

About five hundred years later, the script was deciphered by James Prinsep in 1837 with help from scripts discovered on other pillars and tablets in South Asia. The Ashoka Pillar contains the decrees of Ashoka with the following texts: “Among high roads, I have caused fig trees to be planted that they may be for shade to animals and men…” or “..And let these and others the most skillful in the sacred offices discreetly and respectfully use their most persuasive efforts, acting on the heart and eyes of the children, for the purposes of imparting enthusiasm and instruction in dharma (religion), etc.

It is hard to describe the feelings when you are so close to something that is so ancient. From the upper pavilion, there was a beautiful view of the Jami Mosjid. Only the remains of the congregational mosque of the citadel stand today belying the fact that it was quite spectacular in its own time. Built in 1354, it was the largest of the seven mosques built in Delhi during Tughlaq’s reign. The main entrance to the mosque is to the north on account of the proximity of the Yamuna to its eastern wall. It rests on a series of cells on the ground floor. The cloisters on the sides of its courtyard and its prayer hall have disappeared with only a rear wall standing on the western side. The doorway was decorated with carved stones, which have since been plundered. In the middle of courtyard was an octagonal domed structure on which was inscribed, the “Futuhat-e-Feroz-Shahi”, listing the great works and achievements of the emperor.

Timur, visiting the mosque in the end of 1398, was so impressed by it, that he is said to have had a similar mosque built in his capital Samarkand, using craftsmen taken from India. They also say that in the mosque or in an adjoining building, Emperor Alamgir II was murdered in 1759.  An interesting feature is the chambers at the lower level. There is an otherworldly atmosphere in the ruins which are still an active place of worship – on Thursday afternoons, crowds gather to light candles and incense and leave bowls of milk to appease Delhi djinns.

The walls of the citadel are 15 m hight and have a slights slope on the outside. The top parapets or merlons have now disappeared but the arrow slits can still be seen.

The rest of the ruins represented the remains of the Palatial structures. The buildings inside are too ruined to be identified individually, but historians from the time of Feroz Shah listed many structures of the fortress. There was “The Palace of the Clayey Court”, which was meant for the emperor’s court attended by nobles, officials and distinguished literary men. “The Palace of a Wooden Gallery/Overhang” was for the officers of the emperor and the “Central Quadrangle” or the “Palace of the Public Court”, was where the emperor held court for the general public. The more private areas meant for the residence of the emperor and his family, have not been mentioned, but must also have existed. It is likely that the surfaces were at one time covered by a fine limestone plaster which was decorated by carvings and paintings in various colors.

It got dark and rain started to pick up, so without proper goodbye, I left Feroz Shah Kotla with hope to visit it once again. By the time I reach Varun’s house, I was exhausted and cold. I spent a nice and cozy evening at his beautiful home with his family.

January 23, 2014

Weather wasn’t cooperating, but I still moved forward with my plans. I hired an Uber Delhi for a few hours and my first stop, despite many warnings that it wasn’t worth a trip, was Tughlaqabad Fort (entry- Rs.100). I admit that Mehrauli and Tughlaqabad were two extremely underrated sites. Yes, they were rustic, in progress and, sometimes dangerous, but authentic, adventurous and inspiring, being there brought me back in time to the seven ancient cities of Delhi.

Tughlaqabad Qila is a ruined fort in central Delhi, stretching over 6 km, built by Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq, the founder of Tughlaq dynasty, of the Delhi Sultanate of India in 1321-1325, where he established the third historic city of Delhi, which was abandoned already by 1327. Story goes that Ghazi Malik was a feudatory of the Khalji rulers of Delhi and once while promenading with his Khalji master, Ghazi Malik suggested to build a fort on a hill in the southern portion of Delhi. The king jokingly told Ghazi Malik to build the fort himself when he would become a king.

In 1321 AD, Ghazi Malik drove away the Khaljis and assumed the title of Ghias-ud-din Tughlaq. He immediately started the construction of his fabled city, which he dreamt of as an impregnable, yet beautiful fort to keep away the Mongol invaders. However, destiny had other plans for him. Usually perceived as a liberal ruler, Ghias-ud-din was so passionate about his dream fort that he issued a dictate that all laborers in Delhi must work on his fort. Saint Nizamuddin Auliya, a Sufi mystic, got very upset about the edict as the work on his baoli (well) was stopped to supply people for the construction of the fort. The confrontation between the Sufi saint and the royal emperor has escalated and become a legend in India. The saint uttered a curse which was to resonate throughout history right until today: “Ya rahey ujjar, ya basey gurjar” which can roughly be translated to “the fort either remain inhabited or would be occupied by gurjars (shepherds)”. At that time in 1324, the Emperor was engrossed in a successful campaign in Bengal and was on his way to Delhi, when his son, Muhammad bin Tughlaq, met him at Kara in Uttar Pradesh. Allegedly at the prince’s orders, a Shamiana (tent) fell on the Emperor crushing him to death. Another of the Saint Nizamuddin’s curses was “Hunuz Dilli dur ast” meaning “Delhi is still far away”. The Emperor never reached Delhi and never saw the completion of his fort. After the fall of sultanate, Gurjars of the area captured the Qila and situated in it. Thus, both curses of the Sufi saint came true.

Tughlaqabad still consists of remarkable, massive stone fortifications that surround the irregular ground plan of the city. The sloping rubble-filled city walls, a typical feature of monuments of the Tughluq dynasty, are between 10 and 15 meters high, topped by battlemented parapets and strengthened by circular bastions of up to two stories height. The city is supposed to once have had as many as 52 gates of which only 13 remain today. The vast size, the great strength and visible solidity of the gigantic in proportion walls, give it an air of stern and massive grandeur.

The moment I entered the fort, I knew that it would be safer if I hire a guide-guard to take me around. There weren’t lots of visitors and definitely no foreign tourists as I could see, however, there were plenty of single men, alone and in groups, and thousands of placed to hide, which made me worry. The guide-guard and I agreed on Rs. 200 and it was perhaps the best safety investment I made in India. In addition, while most of the fort is inaccessible due to dense thorny vegetation, an ever increasing part of the fort area is occupied by modern settlement, my guide-guard made sure I didn’t get lost and didn’t intrude/walk-in into somebody’s backyard. His English and knowledge of the fort were more than acceptable, while his skills as a body-guard were tried on multiple occasions since here and there a man or group of men would pop up out of the ruins and storm towards me until they saw a guard. Till now I am not sure what their intentions were, since they still did follow us though never came close. Despite this little inconvenience and constant safety alert, I really enjoyed checking out every crevasse of the fort, I breathed the air of history.

Tughlaqabad is divided into three parts:

• the wider northern area was designed as a city area with houses built along a rectangular grid between its gates;
• the citadel with a tower at its highest point (known as Bijai-Mandal) and the remains of several halls and a long underground passage are located in the eastern part of the fort;
• the adjacent palace area containing the royal residences and still existing long underground passage below the tower are in the western part.

The fortified city contained seven rainwater tanks, and I was happy to climb down into one of them.

South of Tughlaqabad is an elevated causeway that connects Fort with the fortified outpost of Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq’s Tomb. Initially, it was built with large size stone boulders, supported by the 27 arches over a large lake, now, lake is gone, and the causeway crosses a busy highway.

Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq’s self-built tomb with a mausoleum enclosed within high battered pentagonal stone walls, strengthened with bastions and surmounted by cupolas, looks like a small fortress itself. Originally it stood within an artificial lake fed by the overflowing of the Hauz-i-Shamsi, and by some natural drainage channels.

The entrance to the tomb enclosure is through a high and massive gateway of red sandstone, approached by a flight of steps. The mausoleum (8 m²) with sloping walls of red sandstone crowned with battlements is surmounted by a white marble dome raised on an octagonal drum, inscribed panels, arched boarders and perforated screens in tympana, all in marble together with its “lotus-bud” fringes, break the monotony of the red sandstone and give it a decorative effect.

There are three graves inside, the central one is of Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq’s and the other two believed to be those of his wife and his son and successor Muhammad bin Tughlaq (1325-1351).

Against the enclosure-walls are cells or pillared corridors with bracket-and-lintel openings. In the north-western bastion there is an octagonal tomb with an inscribed slab over its southern door according to which Zafar Khan lies buried in it. It seems that this tomb was the first to be raised here and while engaged in its construction, Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq had an idea of putting up an enclosure and placing his own tomb also inside it. The place is referred to as Darul-Amam (“Abode of Peace”) in the contemporary records of Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq. Zafar Khan was the general of the Delhi Sultanate who conquered vast territories and died in the battle. His tomb is an integral part of the enclose wall, where an arched opening gives access to the tomb. Walls are surmounted with a domical roof and clad with white marble.

Sadly, little is know about Tughlaqabad fort, but it was by far, one of the most exciting and under-investigated places I visited in Delhi. If you decided to check it out, please allow at least 1.5- 2 hours and keep your car/ride handy.

When I finally left the fort, I found my Uber Mercedes on the parking lot surrounded by a dozen of “homeless” children (not sure they were homeless but they definitely looked like they had no home). I knew they were waiting for me, because a few hours earlier they saw me getting off by the fort’s entrance. It is always hard to resist those children in India, because I felt both – pity and annoyance, but more pity, compassion and helplessness that no matter what I give them, would either end up in adult’s hands or won’t bring them a long term benefit.

After a fantastic exploratory tour of Tughlaqabad fort, I asked the driver to drop me off by one of the most famous landmarks of India, a UNESCO World Heritage Site –  the Qutb (Qutub) Complex. When most people visit this site on their first day in Delhi, I left it for the end of my trip. Like every other “popular” and touristic sites, the Qutb Complex was very organized, preserved, clean, busy and provided plenty of information about sites. Entry is Rs.250 and don’t forget to pick up an audio guide (Rs.100), which was, perhaps, one of the best historical audio-narrations I’ve ever heard. The authors put a lot of effort and imagination, as well as research in compiling the audio recording which consists of not only the historical background of the site and its monuments but impersonalization of the sultans, kings, commoners and even the first empress of India who participated in its construction, all taken from the historical records. It was a fantastic tool to guide me through the Complex.

In overview, the Qutb Complex consists of multiple monuments built by the first sultans of Mehrauli and subsequent rulers who expanded on their work, hiring the best craftsmen and artisans to create masterpieces in stone. The complex is studded with ruin tombs, pillars and other historical sites, which would take you at least 2-3 hours to visit.

In 1192, Muhammed Ghori managed to defeat Prithviraj Chauhan in battle and after leaving his slave and general Qutub-ud-din Aibak as his viceroy in Delhi, returned to Afghanistan.  Aibak, in turn, captured the city the subsequent year. After Ghori’s death in 1206, Aibak proclaimed himself the first Sultan of Delhi and founded Mamluk (Slave) dynasty, the first dynasty of Muslim sultans to rule over northern India. Aibak built Mehrauli (one of the seven ancient cities of Delhi) and started his most prominent contribution – construction of Qutb Minar, a recognizable symbol of Delhi, to commemorate his victory, but died before its completion. In the Qutb complex he also constructed the Quwwat-al-Islam mosque (Might of Islam), which is the earliest extant mosque in India. He was said to have destroyed twenty-seven Jain temples initially housed in the Qutb complex and pillaged exquisitely carved pillars and building material from their debris for this mosque, many of which can still be seen. A Slave dynasty ruled until 1290, and among the rulers was Razia Sultan, who ruled for just 3 years, but became a historic figure for being the first empress in India.  After the end of the Slave dynasty, the complex was added to by many subsequent rulers, including Firoz Shah Tughlaq and Ala ud din Khilji as well as the British. The structures in the complex are the Qutb Minar, the Quwwat al-Islam Mosque, the Alai Gate, the Alai Minar, the Iron pillar, and the tombs of Iltutmish, Alauddin Khilji and Imam Zamin, surrounded by Jain temple ruins.

Right as you walk into the Complex, there is a small Mughal Mosque which comprises of a prayer hall with three compartments, each covered by a bulbous dome. Architecturally it is assigned to the late Mughal period and was in a dilapidated condition in the early 1990’s but was conserved by Mr. Page, the then British Archeological Superintendent of the Qutb Complex.  The Mosque is located in a beautiful garden laid according to the Charbagh pattern. It is square on plan and is further sub-divided into four quarters with paved walkways (Khiyaban).

The very first landmark is the Qutb Minar. You can’t miss it as it is visible from way beyond the Complex’ grounds. The Qutb Minar is the second tallest minar in India (and the tallest brick minaret in the world). Inspired by the Minaret of Jam in Afghanistan, it is an important example of early Afghan architecture, which later evolved into Indo-Islamic Architecture. The Qutb Minar is 72.5 m high, has five distinct stories, each marked by a projecting balcony carried on muqarnas corbel and tapers from a diameter 14.3 m at the base to 2.7 m at the top, which is 379 steps away (entry inside is banned).

Built as a Victory Tower, to celebrate the victory of Mohammed Ghori over the Rajput king, Prithviraj Chauhan, in 1192 AD, by his then viceroy, Qutb-ud-din Aibak, later the first Sultan of Mamluk dynasty. Its construction also marked the beginning of Muslim rule in India. Even today the Qutb remains one of the most important “Towers of Victory” in the Islamic world. Aibak however, could only build the first story, for this reason the lower story is replete with eulogies to Mohammed Ghori. The next three floors were added by his son-in-law and successor, Iltutmish. The minar was first struck by lightning in 1368 AD, which knocked off its top story, after that it was replaced by the existing two floors by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, a later Sultan of Delhi 1351 to 1388, and faced with white marble and sandstone enhancing the distinctive variegated look of the minar, as seen in lower three stories. Thus the structure displays a marked variation in architectural styles from Aibak to that of Tughlaq dynasty.

The minar made with numerous superimposed flanged and cylindrical shafts in the interior, and fluted columns on the exterior, which have a 40 cm thick veneer of red and buff colored sandstone; all surrounded by bands of intricate carving in Kufic style of Islamic calligraphy, giving the minar the appearance of bundled reeds. Also marking a progression in era, is the appearance of inscriptions in a bold and cursive Thuluth script of calligraphy on the Qutb Minar, distinguished by strokes that thicken on the top, as compared to Kufic in earlier part of the construction.

Inscriptions also indicate further repairs by Sultan Sikander Lodi in 1503, when it was struck by lightning once again. In 1802, the cupola on the top was thrown down and the whole pillar was damaged by an earthquake. It was repaired by Major R. Smith of the Royal Engineers who restored the Qutb Minar in 1823 replacing the cupola with a Bengali-style chhatri which was later removed by Governor General, Lord Hardinge in 1848, as it looked out of place, and now stands in the outer lawns of the complex, popularly known as Smith’s Folly.

The Qutb Minar is am awe-inspiring monument, it might look like a simple bricked pillar from afar, but the moment you come close and circumambulate it a few times, it will take your breath away by its solid brick mighty but delicate carvings and design.

At the foot of the Qutb Minar stands the first mosque to be built in India known as Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque (Might of Islam). It was also built by Qutb-ud-din Aibak and represents the oldest surviving example of Ghurids architecture in Indian subcontinent. The construction of this Jami Masjid (Friday Mosque), started in 1193 simultaneously with the Qutb Minar. And even though the Qutb minar appears to be a stand-alone structure, it was built as the ‘Minar of Jami Masjid’, for the muezzin to perform adhan, call for prayer, and also as a qutub, an Axis or Pole of Islam. It is reminiscent in style and design of the Adhai-din-ka Jhonpra or Ajmer mosque at Ajmer, Rajasthan, also built by Aibak during the same time and also constructed by demolishing earlier temples and a Sanskrit school, at the site.

 On the picture – Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, Qutb Minar and Iron Pillar

According to a Persian inscription still on the inner eastern gateway, the mosque was built from the parts taken by destruction of twenty-seven Hindu and Jain temples built previously during Tomars and Prithvi Raj Chauhan, and leaving certain parts of the temple outside the mosque proper. Historical records compiled by Muslim historian Maulana Hakim Saiyid Abdul Hai attest to the iconoclasm of Qutb-ud-din Aibak. This pattern of iconoclasm was common during his reign, although an argument goes that such iconoclasm was motivated more by politics than by religion.

The mosque is built on a raised and paved courtyard, measuring 43 m by 32 m, surrounded by pillared cloisters added by Iltutmish between 1210 and 1220 AD. The stone screen between prayer hall and the courtyard, stood 16 m at its highest and was added in 1196; the corbeled arches had Arabic inscriptions and motifs. Entrances to the courtyard, also uses ornate mandap dome from temples, whose pillars are used extensively throughout the edifice, and in the sanctuary beyond the tall arched screens. What survives today of the sanctuary on the western side are the arched screens in between, which once led to a series of aisles with low-domed ceilings for worshippers. Expansion of the mosque continued after the death of Aibak. His successor, Iltutmish, extended the original prayer hall screen by three more arches. By the time of Iltutmish, the Mamluk empire had stabilized enough that the Sultan could replace most of his conscripted Hindu masons with Muslims. This explains why the arches added under Iltutmish are stylistically more Islamic than the ones erected under Aibak’s rule, also because the material used wasn’t from demolished temples. Some additions to the mosque were also done by Alauddin Khilji, including the Alai Darwaza.

The mosque is in ruins today but indigenous corbeled arches, floral motifs, and geometric patterns can be seen among the Islamic architectural structures. In the center of the mosque, there is an Iron Pillar – one of the world’s foremost metallurgical curiosities. The pillar, 7.21-m high and weighing more than six tonnes, was originally erected by Chandragupta II Vikramaditya (375–414 AD) in front of a Vishnu Temple complex at Udayagiri around 402 AD, and later (in 10th century) shifted by Anangpal from Udayagiri to its present location. Anangpal built a Vishnu Temple here and wanted this pillar to be a part of that temple.

The estimated weight of the decorative bell of the pillar is 646 kg while the main body weighs 5,865 kg thereby amounting to 6,511 kg. The pillar bears an inscription in Sanskrit in Brahmi script dating 4th century AD, which indicates that the pillar was set up as a Vishnudhvaja, standard of god, on the hill known as Vishnupada in memory of a mighty king named Chandra (believed to be Chandragupta II). What the inscription doesn’t tell is how the pillar was made – scientists have never discovered how the iron, which has not rusted after 1,600 years, could be cast using the technology of that time. A deep socket on the top of this ornate capital suggests that probably an image of Garuda was fixed into it, as common in such flagpoles.

I exited Mosque from the north and proceeded to what looked like a mud-hill but turned out to be Alai Minar.  Story goes that after doubling the size of Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque, Ala-ud-din Khilji (1296-1316) started building the Alai Minar, which he conceived to be two times higher than Qutb Minar in proportion with the enlarged mosque. The construction was however abandoned, just after the completion of the 24.5-m high first-story core, soon after Ala-ud-din died in 1316, and never taken up by his successors of Khilji dynasty. The first story of the Alai Minar, a giant rubble masonry core, still stands today, which was evidently intended to be covered with dressed stone later on.

To the west of the Alai Minar are a Muslim graveyard requiring restoration but importantly, a noticeable tomb of Iltutmish which was built by the monarch in 1235. The tomb of Iltutmish (the second Sultan of Delhi who ruled from 1211-1236), was built as a part of the Qutb minarat Mehrauli. The central chamber is 9 m² and has squinches, suggesting the existence of a dome, which has since collapsed. The main cenotaph, in white marble, is placed on a raised platform in the centre of the chamber. The facade is known for its ornate carving, both at the entrance and the interior walls. The interior west wall has a prayer niche (mihrab) decorated with marble, and a rich amalgamation of Hindu motives into Islamic architecture, such as bell-and-chain, tassel, lotus, diamond emblems. 

At the back of the complex, southwest of the mosque, stands an L-shaped construction, consisting of Ala-ud-din Khilji’s tomb dating 1316, and a madarsa, an Islamic seminary built by him. Khilji was the second Sultan of Delhi from Khilji dynasty, who ruled from 1296 to 1316 AD.

The central room of the building, which has his tomb, has now lost its dome, though many rooms of the seminary or college are intact, and since been restored. There were two small chambers connected to the tomb by passages on either side. Fergusson in his book suggested the existence, to the west of the tomb, of seven rooms, two of which had domes and windows. The remains of the tomb building suggest that there was an open courtyard on the south and west sides of the tomb building, and that one room in the north served as an entrance.

It was the first example in India, of a tomb standing alongside a madarsa. The tomb is in a very dilapidated condition. It is believed that Ala-ud-din’s body was brought to the complex from Siri and buried in front of the mosque, which formed part of the madrasa adjoining the tomb. Firoz Shah Tughluq, who undertook repairs of the tomb complex, mentioned a mosque within the madrasa, though it is no where to be found today.

On the southern part of the Complex, there is Alai Darwaza  – the main gateway of the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque. It was also built by Ala-ud-din Khilji in 1311 AD, who added a pillared court to the eastern side. The domed gateway is decorated with red sandstone and inlaid with white marble decorations, inscriptions in Naskh script, latticed stone screens that showcases the remarkable craftsmanship of the Turkic artisans who worked on it. This is the first building in India to employ Islamic architecture principles and characteristics in its construction and ornamentation. Important among those characteristics are the pointed horse-shoe shaped arches, squinches and Lotus-bud fringes of the arches. These Seljuquian influences (Seljuq period: 1038-1157) came to India due to the exodus of artists and artisans who were fleeing to India from the Mongol attacks on central and western Asia.

The Mamluk dynasty did not employ true Islamic architecture styles and used false domes and false arches. This makes the Alai Darwaza, the earliest example of first true arches and true domes in India. It is considered to be one of the most important buildings built in the Delhi sultanate period.

To the right of the Alai Darwaza is the Tomb of Imam Zamin. Saint Imam Muhammad Ali, better known as Imam Zamin, was a native of Turkestan who came to India during the reign of Sikander Lodi (1488-1517). Apparently, he performed some important duties in connection with the Quwwar-ul-Islam mosque. He built his tomb according to an inscription in 1538 and died a year later.

The tomb was built during the reign of the Mughal emperor Humayun. Although this building was constructed in the early Mughal period, it exhibits all the typical characteristics of the Lodhi style of construction. It is surmounted by a dome rising from an octagonal drum. The drum is decorated with a double row of Kanguras and marble panelling can be noticed above chhajja. Twelve square pilasters support the structures and spaces between them are filled up with perforated screens of red sandstone. However, the west contains a Mihrab and the south – an entrance doorway. An inscription above the doorway is written in Naskh characters and provides the story of the Tomb.

One of the interesting features worth observing is the marble radiating ribs in the sandstone dome. The entire structure was originally covered with a finely polished stucco, of which considerable portion is still  present.

In the eastern corner of the Complex, there is a Sanderson’s Sundial, which was erected in memory of Sanderson who was one of the Superintendents of the Archeological Department. He conducted extensive excavation at the Qutb Complex and was involved in its repair and conservation. An inspiring verse inscribed on the sundial in Latin  – transit umbra; lux permanent – meaning “the shadow passes; the light remains”. Next to the sundial is a Smith’s Folly.

By the end of the tour (3 hours later), equipped with an incomparable knowledge from the audio-guide, I confidently headed towards the exit, but decided to make a stop at the lady’s room. As much as Qutb Complex is taken care by the Archeological Society of India, as little you want to visit their bathrooms. I generally prefer not to use public restrooms but when I travel, I can’t avoid it. In Ajmer, after paying a fee to use the bathroom, I literally walked into a wooden shack that was suspended above the river, so the waste would go just down …. into abyss. At the Complex, it wasn’t as bad, but when I went to wash my hands the water just poured down on my shoes. That was actually quite hilarious.

I briefly mentioned earlier that Qutb Complex is part of Mehrauli -a neighborhood in the South West district of Delhi, which is also one of the seven ancient cities of Delhi. From what I read about it, the entire area was a huge archeological park, only without tourists, archeologists or any work in progress (at least at the moment). Still, I wanted to poke around and see what other fantastic monuments of the past I can visit. So, when I exited the Complex, I negotiated with a tuk-tuk driver to take me on a 2-3 hour ride around Mehrauli (Rs.400). I made sure he actually knew what I wanted to see, as drivers tend to take you to shops and residential areas which I wasn’t interested in seeing. I specifically told him that I want to visit the ruins of old tombs, baolis, palaces and such. Luckily, he was the best person for this task, as he knew a bunch of places, he was acquainted with guards/caretakers at those places and he never left my side, which was very important since our trip wasn’t as smooth as I thought it would be. Even though Mehrauli is a part of Delhi, most of the monuments were located in the middle if the jungle or forest and as I have experienced before, those places where occupied by some shady characters, so man’s presence, especially a local man, was re-assuring in my case.

Mehrauli, earlier known as Mihirawali (which means Home of Mihir) was founded by King Mihir Bhoja of the Gurjara-Pratihara Dynasty. In 731 AD, the Gurjar Tanwar chief Anangpal I constructed the Lal Kot fort, which in 11 century was expanded by Anangpal II, when he shifted his capital to Lal Kot from Kannauj. The Gurjjar Tanwars were defeated by the Chauhans in the 12th century. Prithviraj Chauhan further expanded the fort and called it Qila Rai Pithora. He was defeated and killed in 1192 by Mohammed Ghori, who was, in turn, succeeded by his general Qutb-ud-din Aybak and Mehrauli remained the capital of the Mamluk dynasty until 1290. During the Khilji dynasty, the capital shifted to Siri. Even though the capital was moved, many other dynasties contributed significantly to Mehrauli’s architecture.

Mehrauli Archaeological Park is an archaeological area spread over 200 acre, adjacent to the Qutb complex, and it consists of over 100 historically significant monuments. It is the only area in Delhi known for 1,000 years of continuous years of occupation, and includes the ruins of Lal Kot, the oldest extant fort of Delhi, and architectural relics of subsequent period – Khalji dynasty, Tughlaq dynasty, Lodhi dynasty of Delhi Sultanate, Mughal Empire, and the British Raj.

In reality, scattered around a forest park that spills into chaotic bustee (slum) are the ruins of dozens of tombs and palace buildings and several colonial follies. A short distance west of the enclosure, in Mehrauli village, is the Tomb of Adham Khan (built in 1561) who, according to legend drove the beautiful Hindu singer Roopmati to suicide following the capture of Mandu in Madhya Pradesh. Adham Khan, son of Maham Anga, a wet nurse of Akbar, was a nobleman and general in Akbar’s army. In 1561, he fell out with Ataga Khan, Akbar’s Prime Minister and favorite general, and killed him, whereupon he was thrown down from the ramparts of Agra Fort twice, by the orders of the emperor Akbar and died.

His mother after fortieth day of mourning also died out of grief, and both were buried in this tomb, believed to be commissioned by Akbar, in a conspicuous octagonal design, not seen in any Mughal building of that era. It was common design features visible in the tombs of the previous Sur Dynasty, and also the Lodhi dynasty, which the Mughals considered traitors. It lies on the walls of Lal Kot and rising from a terrace enclosed by an octagonal wall provided with low towers at the corners. It consists of a domed octagonal chamber and has a verandah on each side pierced by three openings. It is known popularly as Bul-bulaiyan (a Labyrinth or Maze), for a visitor often loses his way amidst the several passages in the thickness of its walls.

In 1830s, a British officer named Blake of Bengal Civil Service, converted this tomb into his residential apartment and removed the graves to make way for his dining hall. Though the officer died soon, it continued to be used as a rest house for many years by the British, and at one point even as a police station and a post office. The tomb was vacated and later restored by the orders of Lord Curzon, and the grave of Adham Khan has since been returned to the site, and lies right below the central dome, though that of his mother Maham Anga is forever gone.

The Tomb was restored but the feeling of a public house didn’t vanish, perhaps due to the dozens of people casually sitting on the Tomb’s steps. Close to Adham Khan’s tomb, lies that of another Mughal General, Muhammad Quli Khan, later it served as the residence of Sir Thomas Metcalfe, Governor-General’s Agent at the Mughal court. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to visit that tomb, or simply wasn’t able to find it.

After visiting the Tomb, I boarded tuk-tuk and we went to see Gandhak ki Baoli, situated just approximately 100 m from the Tomb of Adham Khan. It is supposed to be the largest step-well ever built in Delhi, constructed during the rule of Emperor Iltutmish (ruled 1211-1236). The name, ‘Gandhak’ means sulphur as the water of the well smelled like it and ‘Baoli’ means ‘a well with steps’. Iltutmish had built Gandhak Ki Baoli for Khwaja Sayed Muhammad Qutb-ud-din Bakhtiar Kaki, who was a well renowned Sufi Saint during his reign and who greatly inspired the Sultan through his Islamic teachings.

Gandhak Ki Baoli is seen in the shape of a huge five tiered structure which included a circular shaped well on its southern side. This well was once famous amongst the local inhabitants who used it as a sports venue for diving and swimming, but unfortunately, this historical and ancient monument is in a neglected state and has dried up throughout the years. Despite this fact, the Baoli is still the largest well ever seen in Delhi and the absence of water allows all tourists to view and admire the architecture and intricate design of the Baoli to the fullest.

After one Baoli, the driver took me to see another – Rajon ki Baoli -constructed in 1506 during Sikandar Lodhi‘s reign. It was used to store water, though it is now completely dried and is now known as Sukhi Baoli (dry well).  Rajon ki Baoli (‘rajon’, in this instance means ‘masons’) consists of three long flights of broad steps leading down to the water. This is unquestionably one of Delhi’s more beautiful baolis, with some exquisite plasterwork—very distinctive of the Lodhi period—along the arcade at the top.

The majestic Rajon ki Baoli was meant to be both – a source of water, and a place of rest for thirsty travelers. That is why, besides the small cells (used as rooms) which line the walls, there is a small and pretty mosque here, decorated with more of the finely incised plasterwork. In addition, there’s a small tomb, in the form of a chhatri (a domed pavilion). This, according to an inscription, was built possibly by someone named Daulat Khan, for a certain Khwaja Mohammad, in 1506.

When we arrived, there were another young Indian couple and a caretaker-guard with a weapon. They recommended me to climb up and explore the mosque and a tomb. And when I was on the upper level, I heard a bone-chilling scream either of a human or an animal, i couldn’t tell. Since everything around was covered in trees and bushes, I couldn’t really see what was happening below the site, but i definitely heard the struggle of what seemed to be a murder. I still hope that the victim was a pig and not a human. Everyone at the baoli heard the scream, as it first pierced the air and then went on for at least 10 minutes. I immediately asked my driver to call the police but he didn’t react, then i told the guard to go and see what was happening but he didn’t move either. Everyone behaved as nothing was going on. Then I, myself, rushed out of the compound and headed to the bushes where i’ve heard the noise but both, my driver and the guard stopped me and told me not to get involved. I think i repeated 50 times that we had to call the police but nobody reacted and my driver tried to shove me back to tuk-tuk to get me out of there. Until now, i don’t know what happened there and whose life was lost.

My driver tried to convinced me that nothing out of the extraordinary happened, but I could see he was irritated and on the edge, both – because of what happened and my reaction to act and not to hide. He quickly drove me to another site – Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb.  It comprises of two monuments adjacent to each other; one is the mosque and the other is the tomb of two persons with the names Jamali and Kamali.  “Jamali” (beauty) was the alias given to Shaikh Fazlu’llah, also known as Shaikh Jamali Kamboh (or Jalal Khan), a renowned and greatly regarded Sufi saint and poet.  He belonged to a Sunni merchant family and was indoctrinated to Sufism by Sheik Samauddin. Jamali was a popular poet who traveled widely through Asia and Middle East. He became a court poet during the Lodhi Dynasty rule and continued to enjoy the patronage of the Mughal rulers, Babur and his son Humayun; it is said that his tomb was completed during Humayun’s rule. His poetry mirrored Persian mysticism of the times and his two most popular works are “The Sun and Moon” and “The Spiritual Journey of the Mystics”. Kamali was an unknown person but associated with Jamali. Their names are tagged together as “Jamali Kamali” for the mosque as well as the tomb since they are buried adjacent to each other. The mosque and the tomb were constructed in 1528-1529, and Jamali was buried in the tomb after his death in 1535.

The Jamali Kamali mosque, positioned in an enclosed garden area, built first during the years 1528-29, has a southern entry. Constructed in red sandstone with marble embellishments, it is claimed to be a forerunner in the design of Mughal mosque architecture in India. The prayer hall, fronted by a large courtyard, has five arches with the central arch only having a dome. The size of arches increases towards the central arch, which is the largest of the five arches embellished with beautiful ornamentation. The spandrels of the arch are decorated with medallions and ornamentation. Fluted pilasters exquisitely decorate the central arch. The prayer wall on the west has niches with mihrab. The niches and walls are decorated with a few Koranic inscriptions. A porch around the mosque provides access to the two storied mosque and the four corners are adorned by octagonal towers. The rear end of the mosque has been provided with oriel windows, apart from a small window on the central arch.

After exploring the Mosque (shoes must be removed outside the fence), a guard fetched the keys and let us enter the enclosure on the right side of the mosque. There were a small Mughal cemetery with a dozen of graves and the Tomb of Jamali Kamali. The tomb is a decorated 7.6 m² structure with a flat roof, located adjacent to the mosque on its northern side. Inside the chamber, the flat ceiling is plastered and ornately decorated. It is painted in red and blue with some Koranic inscriptions, and the walls are adorned with inlaid colored tiles inscribed with Jamali’s poems. The decorations in the tomb have been described as giving the impression of “stepping into a jewel box” and it indeed felt this way. The tomb chamber has two marble graves: one of Jamali, the saint poet and the other of an unknown Kamali.

Across the path from the Mosque, there was a definite section of ruins which contained the Tomb of Balban. For over a century, this area was covered with dense vegetation with only glimpses of archeological structures visible. In 2001-2002, a major conservation initiative in this area led to a careful consolidation and conservation project which affected numerous ruins. This was obviously the site of a flourishing settlement in the 16th-17th centuries with a large public courtyard and residential units looking into it.

After about 5-7 minutes walk, we came across the open space with well-preserved (perhaps, restored) walls. That was the Tomb of Ghiyas ud din Balban.  Built in 1287, in rubble masonry, the tomb is a building of historical importance in the development of Indo-Islamic architecture, as it was here that first true arch made its appearance in India, and according to many first true dome as well, which however hasn’t survived, making Alai Darwaza built in 1311 CE, in the nearby Qutb complex, the earliest surviving true dome in India. Ghiyas ud din Balban (1200–1287) was a Turkic ruler of the Delhi Sultanate during the rule of Mamluk dynasty of Delhi from 1266 to 1287. The tomb of Balban was discovered only in the mid-twentieth century.

It is an imposing stone and masonry building, though lacking the splendid ornamentation to be seen in the tomb of his master, Iltutmish. The tomb is surrounded by the ruins of an extensive late-medieval settlement and it offers, from certain angles, a remarkable view of the Qutb Minar.

The more time I spent in the ruins, the more anxious my driver became. I guess he wasn’t expecting from me to actually get off the tuk-tuk and walk all the way to the forest to see the tombs, but he was wrong. When we reached the Tomb of Balban, we could see it from above, and I suggested to come down and explore the structure from the ground level. The driver said it was not possible and he wasn’t going, however, I already saw the path down and proceeded with my plan. In the back of my mind, I understood his concerns – it was getting dark and we were browsing in the ruins in the middle of the forest. Here and there, we would see some random men hiding (?) in bushes, but I wouldn’t exclude an idea of some people still living in the ruins, as it is a case in Tughlaqabad fort. I am sure the driver was concern for my well-being as he was very cautious and followed me everywhere. So, when I went down to the tomb, he went after me and I promised him to take just a few pictures and leave as soon as I was ready.

To the east of Balban’s tomb, lies a ruined rectangular structure said to be the grave of Khan Shahid, Balban’s son, whose original name was Muhammad, who died, before he could be crown, fighting against the Mongols near Multan in 1285, but because we were in a rush to leave, I never saw (found) it.

By the path, where we left the tuk-tuk, was a sign-post with different sites to see, but my driver was in a hurry to leave, so I followed him as he took me to the last place to visit – Azim Khan’s Tomb.

The tomb of Azim Khan (also known as Akbar Khan) is located on a small hillock and dates back to the days of the great Mughal Emperor Akbar. Although a prominent landmark of South Delhi, the tomb has been an example of utter neglect and not much is known about neither its historical background nor about its occupant. There are no proper historic records about Azim Khan but according to some, Azim Khan was a general in Akbar’s army and was awarded  the title “Akbar” (meaning magnificent) by Akbar himself.

It was probably the horrors of war that converted Azim Khan into a pious and religious man. Azim Khan become a follower of the famous Sufi saint Hazarat Nizamuddin, who is said to appear in his dream and advise him to give up the path of war and violence. Azim Khan adopted the path of spirituality and soon his spiritual advices were much in demand. This attracted a large number of people, from far and wide, flocking to him.

In search of isolation, Azim Khan built himself a tomb on a hillock located on the barren lands south of Delhi. The hillock had vertical walls preventing access to the residence of Azim Khan. It was built somewhere in the 17th century, but historians are still in the dark about the exact date of construction.

Centuries later, during the British rule, several of the monuments of Mehrauli were converted into outhouses of British officers. Azim Khan’s tomb was no exception and it was converted into a late night partying house! The British soldiers tested their physical strength and their climbing skills by scaling the near vertical walls of the hillock for the late night parties.

After independence, the tomb of Azim Khan was left in neglect. It was only during the Commonwealth Games (Delhi 2010) beautification drive, the neglected tomb finally got its much needed attention. During the process of restoration, the Archaeological Survey of India decided to build a staircase leading up to the tomb, thus making the century old inaccessible tomb accessible.

Despite all the efforts, it is still, like most of Mehrauli, hardly visited by people and the approach road is extremely difficult to spot.

The steps didn’t look steep but I got dizzy by the time I reached the top. The newly restored square domed tomb has a few graves in front of it, entrances on three sides and the dome is crowned with inverted lotus finial. The tomb, with its plastered walls, has no ornamentation on the outer walls. All three entrances were sealed, making entry inside the tomb impossible, however, I could see the interior of the Tomb from a barred entrance. The graves were simple with many grave stones long gone, but the walls were coated with plaster and decorated with some  incised ornamentation of lotus motif, calligraphy and features like finials on the domes and Kangura patterns at the parapet level.

The greatest part of the Azim Khan’s Tomb is its commendably view of the Mehrauli region, stretching all the way beyond the Qutb Minar.

A guard, who displayed a whole lot of affection towards me, offered to take a walk around the Tomb, which meant – balance on a 30 cm wide parapet along the Tomb’s walls suspended 100 m above ground. Uhhhh, no, thank you.

Wow, I got to admit that despite all the dangers and drawbacks, Mehrauli was my most favorite place. Every site I’ve visited, felt as if I were walking alone in a jungle and randomly discovered the ruins of a long lost city. I will definitely get back there since I failed to see many more places: Quli Khan’s Tomb, Hauz-i-Shamsi, Jahaz Mahal, Zafar Mahal, remains of Lal Kot Fort, Madhi Majid, the dargah shrine of Sufi saint, Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki etc.

As a part of a deal, the driver dropped me by the tourist’s shopping center (so he could get a free gas coupon from the owner). I wasn’t planning to buy anything, so I was in and out in about 15 minutes. He was still waiting for me, so I asked him to drop me off by my last site of the day – Nizam-ud-din Dargah. It is the dargah (and mausoleum) of one of the world’s most famous Sufi saints, Nizamuddin Auliya (1238 – 1325). Located across the street from Humayun’s Tomb, the dargah is visited by thousands of Muslims every week, and sees a fair share of Hindus, Christians and people from other religions too. I have heard and read so much about Nizamuddin Auliya and this dargah, that I wasn’t leaving India without visiting it.

Hidden away in a labyrinth of bazaars, selling everything from food, to rose petals and holy offerings, the marble shrine was easy to find because of the flow of people that was continuously pouring through the long marble corridors into the complex. It isn’t just a tomb of an ascetic Sufi saint who died in 1325 at the ripe age of 92, but a true pilgrimage site and a window through the centuries.

I couldn’t have said better than Yousuf Saeed in his article “Walking the Mystic Alleys”.

“You can easily miss this little mohalla if you are new to Delhi, even though it’s in the heart of the city. The Dargah Hazrat Nizamuddin, as it’s known today, was the quaint village called Ghayaspur when young Muhammad Nizamuddin migrated to Delhi from Badayun (in UP) in the early thirteenth century. It has survived the ravages of time to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Delhi even if its neighbors – a flyover, a five-star hotel, a police station, and residential bungalows -obscure it today.

One enters the dargah Nizamuddin area from New Delhi’s Mathura Road and finds a distinctly medieval ambience: labyrinthine alleys, crowds of beggars and street vendors, bazaars with cheap eateries, hawking kababs and other delicacies, people selling caps, rosaries, religious posters, and so on. One of the lanes on the left leads to the well-known Mughlai restaurant Dastarkhwan-e-Kareem. Further ahead is the modern building of the Ghalib Academy, established to honor the 19th century Urdu poet Mirza Ghalib. It has a well-stocked library and museum, and an adjoining compound where Ghalib is buried.

As the road narrows, you meet flower-sellers who lovingly pester you to buy a tray of flowers, sweets, or a chadur (cloth) to offer at the dargahs of Nizamuddin Aulia and Amir Khusrau. Before entering the dargah premises, you have to remove your shoes and preferably cover your head. A medieval archway leads to a verandah that faces the tomb of Amir Khusrau, customarily visited first. Here you will find many claiming to be the Sajjadah-nashins (keepers) of the mausoleum, requesting money for their blessings. The maintenance and upkeep of the dargah, including a daily langar (community meal) for the poor is run with the help of alms and offerings here.

Much of the architecture here dates to the later medieval period. Amir Khusrau’s domed marble tomb was constructed in 1605. Intricate filigreed screens (jali) wall the small room that has a tall tombstone constructed in 1496 by Mehdi Khwaja, a courtier of Emperor Babur. Originally in red sandstone, the jali is now covered with years and years of paint and whitewash. In the early twentieth century, Hasan Nizami, a keeper of the dargah, accidentally scratched the paint in one portion and discovered versified dates in Persian etched on the sandstone. An effort by the government to clean the jali at that time was curtailed by strong objections from the community. Devotees now tie colorful threads to this jali. Men and women can always be seen sitting around the jali either reading the Quran, or simply praying in silence.

Opposite the opening of Amir Khusrau’s tomb there is a heavy wooden door leading to the Hujra-e-Qadeem (literally, the ancient room). Usually locked, except for the exclusive sama’ (qawwali) gatherings of the Sufis, this room is claimed to have been constructed in the thirteenth/fourteenth century. A wall outside this room has a calligraphed poem in praise of Nizamuddin Auliya composed by the Urdu poet Allama Iqbal. Saqqe, or water-sellers, with their leather mashaqs (water bags) pester you to pay for the drinking water offered to devotees.

From here, Nizamuddin Aulia’s grave is about ten yards to the north. Between the two tombs are situated a few more graves. Jehanara, the daughter of Shah Jahan, and Emperor Mohammad Shah lie buried here. Nizamuddin Aulia’s tomb is followed by a courtyard — the arena for the qawwali performances, and is always full of devotees. Towards the west is the high sandstone wall of the Jamaat-Khana (prayer hall), supposedly constructed by Feroz Shah Tughlaq a few years after Nizamuddin Auliya’s death.

Incidentally, the place where Nizamuddin Auliya’s tomb is located is not where he established his khaneqah, or monastery. When he came to Delhi with his mother and sister, he had aspirations to become a qazi (judge) in the town. However, the spiritual world of Sufis, especially the Chishtia order, attracted him, and soon he joined Baba Fariduddin Ganj-e-Shakar’s monastery in Ajodhan, Punjab (now in Pakistan). After spending a few years with Baba Farid, he was appointed his spiritual emissary for Delhi. Nizamuddin settled near the Yamuna, about a kilometer east of the present-day dargah, immediately behind Humayun’s tomb. This is where he prayed, meditated, and met hundreds of people attracted to his spiritual message. More than seven hundred years later, that attraction still continues.”

It was Thursday, a special night to come here, sit on the marble floor, admire the tomb, enjoy the ambience and listen to Sufis singing rousing qawwali (devotional hymns) from 6.30 pm till 9.30 pm.

Women aren’t allowed inside but many of them devotedly prayed by the back wall behind the jalis, which also allowed a great view of the inner room with a tomb. There are perhaps over a few dozens of tombs in Dargah and it is hard to get around with so many people, and especially children, but it was all peaceful, graceful and respectful.

After 2 hours at the Nizam-ud-din Dargah, I headed out. My friend from Oxford, Priyanka, was planning a night out and I promised to join her, so I wanted to make sure to get home on time to get ready.  If I have a chance to go back to Delhi, I will definitely visit this place again. It felt truly spiritual and unique.

Priyanka definitely knows how to party, whether it is a Thursday or a Saturday night. We had such an amazing time with her friends at a bar in the area of Delhi I didn’t know. Historic Delhi is fascinating, but so is modern Delhi.

January 24, 2014

My last day in India. Many people skip Delhi all together and head to Agra and Rajasthan, but for me, Delhi was like a treasure box, full of wonderful surprises and stunning sites. I was also staying with Varun and his family, which made a difference since they have been kind and very hospitable to me, and I couldn’t have asked for a better arrangement.  Varun’s mom, Seema, was an amazing host, she listened to my daily adventures and gave her advices on places to visit in Delhi or shared her experiences about traveling in India.

Obviously, in 5 days, I couldn’t possibly see everything, but I hope I dug a bit deeper than most travelers do. On my last day, before going shopping, I decided to check out one more site – Hauz Khas Complex – located in South Delhi. Delhi’s artiest enclave is home to trendy boutiques, hip bars and restaurants; in New York city terms, it is a mixture of Greenwich Village and SoHo. But unlike in Delhi, we don’t have 13th and 14th centuries madrasas and Tombs of Sultans in New York. From Safdarjung Enclave it took me 10 minutes to get to the Hauz Khas but because it was only 9 am, many shops were still closed, so I proceeded straight to the historical complex (in the end of the road). Free entry, open from 10 am till 6 pm.

Hauz Khas Complex houses a water tank, an Islamic seminary, a mosque, domed tombs of Muslim royalty from the 14th to 16th centuries, and pavilions built around an urbanized village with medieval history traced to the 13th century of Delhi Sultanate reign. It was part of Siri, the second medieval city of India of the Delhi Sultanate of Allauddin Khilji Dynasty (1296–1316). The etymology of the name Hauz Khas in Farsi (or Urdu) is derived from the words ‘Hauz’: “water tank” (or lake) and ‘Khas’:'”royal”- the “Royal tank”. The large water tank or reservoir was first built by Khilji to meet the water supply needs of the newly built fort at Siri and was originally known as Hauz-i-Alai.  But Feruz Shah Tughlaq (1351–1388) of the Tughlaq dynasty re–excavated the silted tank and cleared the clogged inlet channels. The tank was originally of about 50 ha area with dimensions of 600 m width and 700 m length with 4 m depth of water. When built, its storage capacity at the end of each monsoon season was reported to be 0.8 Mcum.

Even though, the size of the royal tank was substantially reduced due to encroachment and siltation, recent renovations and attempts to restore both, the ruins and the water quality in the lake, made Hauz Khas Complex a very popular hang out place in Delhi. Even at 9 am, it was packed with students and young couples. It is a perfect place to explore for people who are interested in history but don’t want to be overwhelmed by the size of the site. It is quite compact, with great signage, many interesting things to see and safe.

The very first thing you see when you come in is Madrasa. Established in 1352, it was one of three main Madrasas in Delhi and the leading institution of Islamic learning in the Delhi Sultanate endowed by the Emperor himself. It was also considered the largest and best equipped Islamic seminary anywhere in the world.  After the sacking of Baghdad, Delhi became the most important place in the world for Islamic education. The village surrounding the Madarsa was also called Tarababad (city of joy) in view of its affluent and culturally rich status, which provided the needed supporting sustenance supply system to the Madrasa. Its reputation as a premier center of learning was enhanced because it employed teachers who were scholars of note. It also attracted students from far and wide, who were given generous stipends for the time they were in the college.

The madrasa structure has an innovative design. It was built in L-Shape as one contiguous structure on the south and east edges of the reservoir complex. One arm of the L-shape structure runs in the North–South direction measuring 76 m and the other arm runs in the East–West direction measuring 138 m. At the northern end there is a small mosque. Between the mosque and the tomb two storied pavilions exist now on the northern side and similar pavilions on the eastern side, overlooking the lake, which were used as madrasa. The two arms are interconnected through small domed gateways passing through the tomb at the center.

The Northern wing of the college building has pillared rooms on the top floor and arcaded rooms below. The rooms overlook the tank and would have provided a beautiful view. On the other side, the top floor rooms overlooked the garden, which was planted with blooming trees and bushes. The buildings of Madrasa are built of rubble masonry combined with blocks of neatly cut quartzite. Much of the exterior was originally covered in white plaster, decorated with golden domes and painted in bright colors. The ornamentation that can still be seen consists of primary of some incised plasterwork and simple carving.

The North–South arm with balconies overlooking the reservoir is a two storied building with three towers of varying sizes. Also in the lower story one can see small dark cells which were probably meant for student accommodation. Inside, there are narrow openings for light and air and small storage niches. In front of these cells where were arcaded rooms which have now fallen down. Ornamental brackets cover the upper storied balconies while the lower stories have corbeled support. Roof overhangs or eaves (chajjas) are seen now only in the upper stories though it is said that they existed on both stories when it was built. The area in front of this building was originally a courtyard with two buildings that face each other and flank the large domed building.

From each floor of the Madrasa, staircases are provided to go down to the lake. Many cenotaphs, in the form of octagonal and square chhatris are also seen, which are reported to be possibly tombs of teachers of the Madrasa.

It is recorded that the first Director of the Madrasa was

“one Jalal al-Din Rumi who knew fourteen sciences, could recite the Quran according to the seven known methods of recitation and had complete mastery over the five standard collections of the Traditions of the Prophet“

The madrasa was well tended with liberal donations from the Royalty. Timur, the Mongol ruler, who invaded Delhi, defeated Mohammed Shah Tughlaq in 1398 and plundered Delhi, had camped at this venue. Expressed in his own words, his impressions of the tank and buildings around Hauz Khas were vividly described as:

“When I reached [the city’s] gates, I carefully reconnoitered its towers and walls, and then returned to the side of the Hauz Khas. This is a reservoir, which was constructed by Sultan Feruz Shah, and is faced all round with stone and stucco. Each side of the reservoir is more than a bows–shot long, and there are buildings placed around it. This tank is filled by rains in the rainy season, and it supports the people of the city with water throughout the year. The tomb of Sultan Feruz Shah stands on its bank”

While his description of the place is correct but his ascribing construction of the tank to Feruz Shah was a misconception.

The North-South and East- West arms are pivoted at the large Tomb of Feruz Shah. Feruz Shah, who established the tomb, ascended the throne in 1351 (inherited from his cousin Muhammad) when he was middle aged, as the third ruler of the Tughlaq dynasty and ruled till 1388. He was considered a well–liked enlightened ruler. He was known for “his keen sense of historical precedent, statements of dynastic legitimacy and the power of monumental architecture”. He renovated/restored old monuments such as the Qutb Minar, Sultan Ghari and Suraj Kund, and also erecting two inscribed Ashokan Pillars, which he had transported from Ambala and Meerut in Delhi. At Hauz Khas, he raised several monuments on the southern and eastern banks of the reservoir. Feruz died at the age of ninety due to infirmities caused by three years of illness between 1385 and 1388. During his enlightened rule Feroz abolished many vexatious taxes, brought in changes in the laws on capital punishment, introduced regulations in administration and discouraged lavish living styles. But the most important credit that is bestowed on him is for the large number of public works executed during his reign namely, 50 dams for irrigation across rivers, 40 mosques, 30 colleges, 100 caravanserais, 100 hospitals, 100 public baths, 150 bridges, apart from many other monuments of aesthetic beauty and entertainment.

Among the notable buildings of historical importance that he built within Hauz Khas precincts is the domed tomb for himself. Entry to the tomb is through a passage in the south leading to the doorway. The passage wall is raised on a plinth which depicts the shape of a fourteen-faced polyhedron built in stones. Three horizontal units laid over eight vertical posts that are chamfered constitute the plinth. Squinches and muqarnas are seen in the solid interior walls of the tomb and these provide the basic support to the octagonal spherical dome of the tomb. The dome with a square plan – 14.8 m in length and height – has a diameter of 8.8 m. The maximum height of the tomb is on its face overlooking the reservoir. The domed gateway on the north has an opening which has height equal to two–thirds the height of the tomb. The width of the gate is equal to one-third of tombs’ width. The entrance hall has fifteen bays and terminates in another doorway which is identical to the gateway at the entrance. This second doorway leads to the tomb chamber and cenotaph, which are accessed from the gateway through the L–shaped corridor. Similar arrangement is replicated on the western doorway of the tomb leading to the open pavilion on the west. The ceiling in the dome depicts a circular gold medallion with Quranic inscriptions in Naksh characters. Foliated crenellations are seen on the outer faces of the base of the tomb. Interesting features seen on the northern and southern sides of the tomb, considered typical of the Tuglaq period layout, are the ceremonial steps provided at the ground level that connect to the larger steps leading into the reservoir.

The tomb, a square chamber, is made of local quartzite rubble with a surface plaster finish that sparkled in white color when completed. The door, pillars and lintels were made of grey quartzite while red sandstone was used for carvings of the battlements. The door way depicts a blend of Indian and Islamic architecture. Another new feature not seen at any other monument in Delhi, built at the entrance to the tomb from the south, is the stone railings (see picture above). There are four graves inside the tomb, one is of Feruz Shah and two others are of his son and grand son.

The tomb was repaired during the reign of Sikandar Lodhi in 1507 AD, as is evidenced from an inscription on the entrance. The main impression is one of solidity and lack of decoration (typical of Tughlaq style).

The garden across the Feruz Shah Tomb and madrasa houses six impressive pavilions. The pavilions with domes are of a similar ornamentation though in different shapes and sizes (rectangular, octagonal and hexagonal) and on the basis of inscriptions are inferred to be graves of the teachers of the madrasa.  Each pavilion is raised on a plinth of about 0.8 m and is supported by square shaped wide columns with entablature which have decorative capitals that support beams with projecting canopies. Some of them have a shallowly marked grave in the center. It it possible that the tombs were designed so that students can sit there and study in the shadow of their departed teachers.

The two smallest pavilions have very heavy projecting stone beams just under the dome and it is possible that they were part of a large structure. Another striking structure in the garden, opposite to the Feruz Shah’s tomb on the southern side, is a small eight pillared Chatri seen in the garden which has large cantilevered beams that supported flat eaves all round the small dome.

The L-shaped madrasa has a long colonnaded hall measuring 24.7 m by 6.7 m, with an 8 m projection from the center to the west. It is not known for sure what this building’s function was. While some say it was a tomb with many graves inside, there are no traces of graves now in it. From its size and shape it seems that it was a meeting place or assembly room, designed to hold a bigger group than would normally gather for classes. A cluster of three hemispherical domes, a large one of 5.5 m diameter and two smaller ones of 4.5 m diameter, portray exquisite architectural features of foliated motifs on the drums with kalasa motifs on top of the domes.

The northern end of the madrasa is secured to a small mosque – a place of worship for those who lived and worked in the madrasa. The central courtyard is 13 m by 12 m, and is surrounded by ruined colonnades on the north, south and west. The qibla of the Mosque projects towards the reservoir by about 9.5 m. A domed gateway from the south east provides entry into three rooms of size 5.3 m x 2.4 m, whose utility is not traced. A “C”-shaped layout of a double row of pillars on a raised podium forms the prayer hall, which is open to the sky. The western wall, which indicated the directions of Mecca, is of an unusual pattern. Unlike most of the mosques, where the western wall is closed, the qibla wall has five mihrabs which alternate with decorative jharokhas (cantilevered, enclosed openings) that overlook the tank.  Stairs lead down to the water from the central window and from the south of the mosque.

Even though the Hauz Khas Complex is quite small, I spent 2 hours there and wish I had more time to explore the Deer Park and Green Park with its numerous Lodi-era tombs scattered around. However, I wanted to devote a bit of time to shopping, so I took a tuk-tuk to Dilli Haat – Delhi’s famous food and craft bazaar (Rs.20 entry). It is a great place to pick up high quality souvenirs, from carpets to little trinkets, from teas to cutlery etc. I settled on two cashmere scarfs for myself and a small Ganesha present for Seema.

I also wanted to check out Connaught Place with its shopping galleria and State Emporiums, which apparently is a big mall representing each Indian state and their merchandise. Since I’ve never taken a metro in Delhi, I decided to give it a try, especially because it was very easy and straightforward to get from Dilli Haat to Connaught Place. The subway was clean and very convenient however, it served as another evidence of division between men and women as well as a confirmation that there are plenty of men on the streets, but very few women, even in Delhi. And I am referring to a line through a metal detector (yes, you need to pass a metal detector in order to enter the subway – I have seen the same practice in China too), where in a women’s line, I was in and out, but the line for men was at least 150 m long, going all the way to the subway’s exit. (Note, police stopped me and asked to delete the pictures of men in the subway, as if i could use them to sabotage anybody).

On the Connaught Place, I fell into a very typical touristic trap. When I exited a subway, I started to look for the streets’ names trying to match them with the google map on my phone. I knew where the State Emporiums where located, since I had their address, and I knew what their building looked like. While I was orienteering myself, a tall good-looking Indian guy approached me asking, in very fluent English, whether I was looking for the State Emporiums shopping mall, which I confirmed. Then he suggested taking a special Emporium tuk-tuk, which miraculously appeared before us, for Rs.40. I knew that the mall was within a walking distance from the Connaught Place, but I agree to take a tuk-tuk. Well, I can’t say I was surprised when 10 minutes later, driving in the opposite direction from the mall’s location shown on my google map, we still haven’t reached the State Emporiums. Eventually we did, and you guessed it right, it was a dilapidating shack with “Real State Emporiums” written on it, looking nothing like the one I saw on the picture and located nowhere near it was supposed to be. I asked the driver where he took me and he, playing an idiot, replied that if I wanted to go to State Emporiums, here it was. In return, I lied to him and said that I was at the mall a few days ago, so the place he took me wasn’t the right one. I also accused him of fraud and tout and told him to take me back to Connaught Place immediately, if he didn’t want to have problems with the police. Luckily, the trick with the police worked, he angrily drove me back to the Place and didn’t ask for money.

This small incident killed my desire to go anywhere, so I browsed around the Connaught Place (which consists of two – inner and outer – circles of shops), did some shopping at the Oxford bookshop and took a tuk-tuk back home.

My flight was just after midnight, so in the evening, Priyanka and Varun took me out to a restaurant for dinner and drinks.

It was a great conclusion to a very interesting, educational, historical, adventurous and definitely memorable trip to India. With ups and downs, awe-inspiring moments and rape attempt, mighty forts of Rajasthan and quiet settlements of Tibetans, richness of long gone Empires and poverty of present day India. It was an Experience.

January 25, 2014

Varun dropped me off at the airport shortly after midnight. The smog was so heavy that we even missed our exit on the highway. At the airport I found out that my Aeroflot flight was delayed by 8 hours, so I booked a room at the Eaton Smart hotel at the airport and took a well-deserved nap. Naturally, we missed the NYC connection at Sheremetyevo, so I had to spend a night at Sheraton in Moscow. I took a bath and ate delicious Russian food, so no, I didn’t regret in missing my flight.

Pictures. 

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